Black crested haori with faux-resist dyed designs of chrysanthemum arabesques in yellow, red, and blue on crackled orange ground with embroidery / Minagawa Gekka
About this Item
Record Details
- Accession Number
- 2005/1.351
- Title
- Black crested haori with faux-resist dyed designs of chrysanthemum arabesques in yellow, red, and blue on crackled orange ground with embroidery
- Artist
- Minagawa Gekka
- Artist Nationality
- Japanese
- Artist Life Dates
- 1892-1987
- Object Creation Date
- circa 1950
- Object Creation Place
- Asia (continent)
- Japan (nation)
- Kinki (region)
- Kyoto (urban prefecture)
- Creation Place 1
- Asia (continent)
- Creation Place 2
- Japan (nation)
- Creation Place 3
- Kinki (region)
- Creation Place 4
- Kyoto (urban prefecture)
- Credit Line
- Gift of Howard and Patricia Yamaguchi
- Dimensions
- 83 cm x 124.46 cm (32 11/16 in. x 49 in.)
- Century
- 20th century
- Primary Object Classification
- Costume and Costume Accessory
- Primary Object Type
- haori
- Secondary Object Classification
- Textile
- Secondary Object Type
- embroidery
- Physical Description
- It is a black silk damask haori (short jacket for kimono) with wax-resist patterns, hand-painted design and metallic threads embroidery. The haori is in medium length, covering just underneath hip. It has elongated sleeves. The silk fabric is woven in a twill pattern of palace carts and flower baskets. Then the fabric is dyed with black. The white family crest under the collar and the diagonal part where chrysanthemum design would appear are left out from dying. The pinkish orange scale pattern is added using wax-resist technique. Chrysanthemum design is hand-painted with white, red, yellow, and blue colors. Finally embroidery is added in various metallic threads around the contours of the chrysanthemum petals and leaves.
- Orange satin damask lining with woven wave design, with stenciled (?) designs of white flying cranes. Silver cord on one side, gold on the other, both with tassels.
- Subject Matter
- The haori was originally part of a man’s formal attire, but in the nineteenth century, female entertainers in Edo (modern Tokyo) adopted it as a cloak for outdoor wear in mild weather. By the end of the century, married women of the upper class adopted black crepe silk haori with family crests (such as that seen here, at the back of the collar) for formal, public occasions. For much of the twentieth century, the haori has been the standard outerwear for a woman who dresses in a kimono outside the home. The twill pattern of palace carts and flower baskets is a traditional auspicious theme for Japanese women’s wear. Chrysanthemums are motifs of autumn season, and traditional clothes with this flower design are usually worn in fall.
- Secondary Keywords
- buildings and the land
- costume
- costume by form
- descriptors
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- edging and surfacing patterns
- flowers (plants)
- herbaceous plants
- image-making processes and techniques
- imbrication
- landscapes (environments)
- main garments
- natural landscapes
- objects we use
- patterns (design elements)
- patterns by specific type
- photographic processes
- photography and photographic processes and techniques
- plants
- processes and techniques
- processes and techniques by specific type
- salted paper processes
- settlements and landscapes
- vegetation and vegetation components
- vegetation components
- woody plants
- Rights
- If you are interested in using an image for a publication, please visit https://umma.umich.edu/about/services/request-image/ for more information and to fill out the online Image Rights and Reproductions Request Form.
Technical Details
- Collection
- University of Michigan Museum of Art
- Image Size
- 2180 x 1677
- File Size
- 487 KB
- Record
- 2005/1.351
- Link to this Item
-
https://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/musart/x-2005-sl-1.351/2005_1_351.jpg
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- In public portfolios
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- Full citation
-
"Black crested haori with faux-resist dyed designs of chrysanthemum arabesques in yellow, red, and blue on crackled orange ground with embroidery; Minagawa Gekka." In the digital collection University of Michigan Museum of Art. https://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/musart/x-2005-sl-1.351/2005_1_351.jpg. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 19, 2024.
