The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies
Thévenot, Jean de, 1633-1667., Lovell, Archibald.

CHAP. LXX. Of the Esine that was kept at Caire in my time.

IN the month of November there was an Esine kept at Caire, that is to say,* a publick Rejoicing, because the Turks had taken two Castles in Hungary. It was proclaim'd on the eighth of November after noon, there being a man who cried it in every Quarter; and the chief Cryer went in a Caftan to adver∣tise the Beys and Consuls, and got money in the Streets: They Cried it for seven days, to begin on Saturday the ninth of November, at the hour of Evening Prayers, though it used not to last above three days. This Saturday morning the Guns were fired from the Castle, which continued to be done every mor∣ning as long as the Esine lasted, and then all fell to work before their doors, the poorest Man that is, being ready on such occasions to lay out somewhat on Lamps and Stuffs: It is a very pleasant thing to be seen, especially in the Night-time, when one may go abroad with greater safety and freedom than in the day at any other time; for by Lamp-light they cannot tell whether your Turban be white or of any other Colour, and so they know not whether you be Christian or Turk. All the streets are full of Lamp-lights, but especially some, wherein there are a vast number of Lights, not only before the Gates, but within the Houses of the Beys, and other Persons of Quality. Besides that, the streets are hung with lovely Hangings of Cloath of Gold, and other rich stuffs; among others, there are some Streets where∣in all the Shops are hung with Cloath of Gold, and rich silk Stuffs flowered with Gold. In many places also, you may see pleasant figures of Christian Franks, which to them is a great Diversion. Besides the Tapistery and Lamps which are to be seen in the Houses of the Beys, they make a shew also in the entry of all sorts of Arms and Armour; as Head-pieces, Corslets, Coats of Mail, Musquets, Swords and Targets, &c. which are ranked in very good order. The Consuls are likwise obliged to act their parts in the Solemnity, Page  242 though it were even a rejoycing for a Victory obtained by the Turks over their own Country, else they would have an Avanie put upon them, and therefore when they keep an Esinie for a Victory over the Venetians, the Consul of Venice is obliged to do as others do, if he had not rather pay the next day a swinging Avanie. There they expose, besides Lamps and Tapistry, several excellent Pictures, which the Turks look upon with a great deal of pleasure, especially when it is some good Face; thinking it impossible that we should have such Beauties in Christendom, nay, that there can be any such in the World. The Women came also, being allowed then, as at Bairam, to go abroad and see the Festival, yet not the great Ladies, as those of the Basha's, Beys, and others of higher Quality, but only those of an inferiour Condi∣tion. This is very expensive to the Consuls, and to all that would make any shew; for besides some hundreds of Lamps, and the Tapistry which must be hired; it is the custom to treat all those who come to see what is before the House with Coffee, and if they be People of Honour and Fashion, they must give them Sorbet also, nay, and Sweet-meats too. And for that end, every Consul had before his House a piece of Tapistry, hung out on each side of the Street, and Hangings all round, leaving only a Passage between; under these kind of Pavillions on each side of the Street, there were some hundreds of Lamps, and a great many Pictures, as likewise at the Avenues of the Street, with Chairs and rich Cushions for those that come to see, to sit on. And no sooner did any come, how mean soever he was, but he had Coffee and Tobacco brought to him, so that the Expence went high; for betwixt morning early, and three a Clock after Midnight, many thousands of People came. This Festival ended on Friday Morning, the fifteenth of November, so that the Esine lasted but six days, though it had been cried for seven, because the Infe∣riour sort of People were at too great Charges, and got nothing, for during that time, no Man was suffered to Work.