Collections of travels through Turky into Persia, and the East-Indies Giving an account of the present state of those countries. As also a full relation of the five years wars, between Aureng-Zebe and his brothers in their father's life-time, about the succession. And a voyage made by the Great Mogul (Aureng-Zebe) with his army from Dehli to Lahor, from Lahor to Bember, and from thence to the kingdom of Kachemire, by the Mogols, call'd The paradise of the Indies. Together with a relation of the kingdom of Japan and Tunkin, and of their particular manners and trade. To which is added a new description of the grand seignior's seraglio, and also of all the kingdoms that encompass the Euxine and Caspian seas. Being the travels of Monsieur Tavernier Bernier, and other great men: adorned with many copper plates. The first volume.

THE FIRST BOOK OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER'S Persian Travels, Containing the several ROADS From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Chief City of PERSIA. (Book 1)

Through the Northern Provinces of TURKY. (Book 1)

CHAP. I.

Of the Roads from France to the hither parts of Asia, and the Places from whence they usually set out for Ispahan.

A Man cannot travel in Asia, as they do in Europe; nor at the same Hours, nor with the same ease. There are no weekly Coaches or Wagons from Town to Town; besides, that the Soil of the Countries is of several natures. In Asia you shall meet with several Regions untill'd and unpeopl'd, either through the badness of the Climate and Soil, or the sloth of the Inhabitants, who rather choose to live miserably, than to work. There are vast Deserts to cross, and very dangerous, both for want of Water, and the Robberies that the Arabs daily commit therein. There are no certain Stages, or Inns to entertain Travellers. The best Inns, especially in Turkie, are the Tents which you carry along with you, and your Hosts are your Servants, that get ready those Victuals which you have bought in good Towns. You set up your Tent in the open Field, or in any Town where there is no Inn: and a good shift too in temperate weather, when the Sun is not too hot, or that it does not rain. In the Carvansera's or Inns which are more frequent in Persia than in Turkie, there are persons that furnish you with Provisions, and the first come are best served. As for Turkie it is full of Thieves, that keep in Troops together, and way-lay the Merchants upon the Roads, and if they be not very well guarded will certainly rob them: nay many times murder them. A mis∣chief prevented in Persia by the well order'd convenience which is provided for Travellers. To avoid these dangers and inconveniences, you are oblig'd to stay

for the Caravans, that go for Persia or the Indies, which never set out but at certain times, and from certain places.

These Caravans set out from Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo. And it is from one of these Cities that a Traveller must set out, that intends for Persia, whether he keeps company with the Caravan, or will hazard himself alone with a Guide, as once I did.

I will begin with Constantinople, from whence you may go either by Land or Sea: and either by Land or Sea there are two ways to go. The first of these by Land is that which I took with Monsieur Chapes and Monsieur St. Liebau, By the way take notice, that Vienna is the half-way near-upon between Paris and Constantinople. The second Road is less frequented, but is less inconvenient and less dangerous: for there are need of the Emperour's Pasports, which he does not grant very freely: besides that here is no fear of the Pirates of Tunis or Argier, as when you embarque from Marseilles or Ligorn. If you intend this way, you must go to Venice; from Venice to Ancona, from whence several Barques are bound every Week for Ragusa. From Ragusa you sail along by the Shore to Durazzo a Sea▪Port of Albania; from whence you travel the rest of the way by Land. From Durazzo to Albanopolis, distant three days journey, from thence to Monestier, just as far; from Monestier you may either take the left hand through Sophia, and Philippopolis, or the right through Inguischer, three days journey from Monestier, and ten from Adrianople, from whence in five days you reach Constantinople through Selivrea.

This last way is part by Sea and part by Land: but there are two other ways alto∣gether by Land, above and below Italy, according to the distinction which Antiquity made of the two Seas that almost encompass it. You may embark at Venice, and sayling along the Gulf which is free from Pirates, you must double the Cape of Matapan, the most Southern Point of all Europe, to enter into the Archipelago. The other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn, from whence several Vessels are bound for the East. The safest way is to go along with the English or Holland Fleets, that u∣sually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn, and part just against the Morea, to the several parts whither they are bound. As the Wind serves, those Fleets sometimes make Sail between the Island of Elba and Italy, and by the Tower of Messina▪ sometimes below Sicily and Sardigna, within sight of Malta. Thus you must come within sight of Candy, whether you are bound for Constantinople, Smyrna, or Alexandretta, from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo: from one of which three Cities, you must necessarily begin your journey, if you intend for Persia.

Some take Egypt in their way, using through Alexandria, Cairo, and Damiata, whence several Vessels are bound for Joppa; or St. John's of Aera, which is not far off: from thence to Jerusalem or Damascus, and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon.

If you will venture in a single Vessel not staying for the Fleets, you may hire a Vessel from Ligorn to Naples, from Naples to Messina, keeping along by the Shore, and lying a shore every night. I took this way, and went from Messina to Syracuse, where are to be seen the most remarkable footsteps of Antiquity. 'Tis like a City under ground, and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow, at the bottom whereof if a man whisper, they that are at the top may hear him. They call this Rock Dionysius the Tyrant's Ear: for being at the top, he easily understood what the People said of him below; and discovered the Counsels of the chief Men of Syracuse, whom he kept prisoners there. Syraecuse has nothing of that splendour which renown'd it when it was the Mistress of all Sicily, and when Greece, jealous of her power, made War upon her. But the Soil is very plentiful, and the Gallies of Malta very often take in their Provisions there. Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friers, going out of which, you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks, where there are several little Cells with every one a Garden, where the Friers sometimes retire, and it is certainly one of the most pleasing Solitudes in the World.

From Syracuse I went to Malta, where you must wait for some Ship that is bound for the East.

CHAP. II.

Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia.

IT is seldom that any Caravans go from Constantinople into Persia; but from Bur∣sa they go every two Months: Bursa is the Capital City of Bithynia, not a∣bove three days journey from Constantinople, or a little more. These two Roads meet at Chabangi, where you may be from Bursa in two Days: and so I will only speak of the Roads from Constantinople to Ispahan. This Journey is to be under∣taken either with the Caravan of Camels, or else ten or twelve Men in a Company, well mounted and well arm'd.

From Constantinople you cross over to Scutari, upon the Coast of Asia.

Setting out from Scutari, the first days journey is very pleasant, over Fields gayly painted with Flowers in their season. At first for some time together, one both sides the way, you see nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids, and you may easily discern the Womens Monuments from the Mens. For there is a Turbant upon the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher, but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments are trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country. That Evening you must lye at Cartali, a Village of Bithynia, the next Day at Ge∣bisa, antiently Lybissa, famous for the Tomb of Hannibal. In that place there are two good Inns, and two fair Fountains.

The third day you come to Isnich, which is thought to be the ancient Nicea; one part of the City is built upon the descent of a Hill, the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea, and makes the Golf of Isnich. The Haven consists of two Moles made of Free-stone, and three great Enclosures encompass'd with Walls, which serve instead of so many Arsenals, wherein there are Store houses full of large Timber, for building Houses and Galleys. The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting, and the Soil bearing rare Fruits, and rich in Wine, caus'd Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the highest part of the Town, from whence there is a prospect at the same time both over the Sea and the Country. The Jews inhabit the greatest part of the Town, dealing chiefly in Timber and Co••••. When the Wind ferves, you may go from Constantinople to Isnich in seven or eight Hours, there being no danger in the passage.

The fourth Day you stay at Chabangi, a small Town built upon the side of a Lake call'd Chaban Gigul, where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains, partly by the Lake∣side, where in some places the Horse will be up to the Belly. This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compass; but it yields great store of large Fish, insomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous. Many Emperours have had a design to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea, for the more easie trans∣porting to Constantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake. And if the Grand Visier, who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed, and left his Son suc∣cessor to his Employment, had liv'd some Years longer, he had no question added this to the rest of those famous Wotks that eterniz'd his Memory.

Departing from Chabangi, you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd Zacarat, which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea. It is a River plentiful in Fish, and you cross over it with a wooden Bridge. There is neither Town, nor Inn in that place; but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada, the chiefest part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armemians. Thither we sent for excellent good Wine, and other necessary refreshments.

From that River to Cancoli, where you lye the next Night, and have your choice of four Inns; you travel all the day in the Mershes, over wooden Bridges and Causeys.

Tuskebasar is the next place, a small Village with two Inns. From thence to Car∣gueslar, a great Town, with one Inn, built upon a River, where there is great store of Fish taken, which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky, that is to say, the

Fish with the long Nose: It is speckl'd like a Trout; but of a better tast, and more esteem'd. Polia or Polis, is a City seated at the foot of several Mountains, the Inhabitants whereof are for the most part Greeks. These Mountains are very high, and extend themselves along the Road for Two days journey. They are full of several sorts of Trees, which are streight and tall like Firr-Trees: and divided by so many Torrents, which it would be hard to pass over, where it not for the Bridges that the Grand Visier Kuprigli caus'd to be built. In regard the soil of these Moun∣tains is very fat, there would be no drawing for the Horses after great Rains or the melting of the Snow, had not the same Visier caus'd all the Ways to be Pav'd and Pitch'd, even as far as Constantinople. A Work of great charge, in regard there is not a Flint in any part of the ••ountain, and for that the Stone is to fetch'd a great way off. There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens, and of an excellent tast, which not only pleas'd our Appetites, but afforded us very good Pastime to shoot them. Between the City and the Mountain, there is a Plain about two Leagues in length; near to which, there glides a River that waters it, and very much contributes to its fertility. It is an excellent Soil, and produces all things necessary for humane Life. Upon each side of the way I counded above Twenty Churchyards▪ For it is the custom of the Turks to bury near the Highway, be∣lieving that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceas'd. Upon every Tomb, there is to be seen a Marble Pillar, half fix'd in the Earth: of which Pillars there are so great a number, of various Colours, that it is from thence conjectur'd, that there were a very great number of Christian Churches in Polia, and the parts there∣abouts. They assur'd me likewise, that there was a vast quantity of these Pillars in the Villages up and down in the Mountains which the Turks every day pull down and set up their Tombs.

Bendourlour is a Village in the Mountains where there is one Inn.

Gerradar is beyond the Mountains, where there are two Inns.

Cargeslar has two Inns, and lyes in a good Country.

Caragaler is a Town where there are two Inns.

Cosizar is a Village with one Inn.

Tocia is a great City situated upon rising Hills, that joyn to very high Moun∣tains. Upon the Winter West, there appears a fair Champain Country, water'd by a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bigness, call'd Guselarmac. Upon the highest of the smaller Hills toward the East, there is a Fortess, where a Basha resides; and in the Town is one of the fairest Inns upon the Road. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Christian Greeks, who have the advantage to drink ex∣cellent Wine, with which the Country furnishes them in abundanee.

Agisensalou stands upon a River, and there is an Inn and a fair Mosquee in it.

Ozeman is a little City seated at the foot of a Hill, upon which there stands a strong Castle, and below two very commodious Inns. The River Guselarmac, broad and deep, washes the South-side of the City, which you cross over one of the fairest Bridges that ever was seen. It consists of Fifteen Arches, all of Free∣stone, and is a work that shews the Grandeur of the Undertaker. Somewhat at a distance from the Bridge stands Six Corn-Mills all together, with little wooden Bridges to go from one to another. This River falls into the Euxin Sea, about eight days journey from Ozeman.

Azilar is a great Town, where there are two Inns.

Delekiras is a great Village, with one Inn.

These Four days Journeys are very dangerous, by reason that the Ways are narrow, and commodious for Robbers. They are very numerous in this Country; and therefore understanding that we were way-laid, we sent and desir'd a Convoy of the Basha, who lent us fifty Horsemen.

Amasia is a great City, built upon an ascent in the hollow of a Mountain. It has no prospect, but only from the South over a fair Plain. The River that runs by it comes from Tocat, and throws it self into the Black-Sea, four days journey from Amasia. You cross it over a wooden Bridge, so narrow that not above three persons can go a-brest. To bring fresh Water to the City, they have cut a League into Rocks as hard as Marble, which was a prodigious Labour. On the West-side, upon a high Mountain, stands a Fortress, where they can come by no other Water than

what they preserve in Cisterns when it rains. In the middle of the Mountain is a fair Spring, and round about it are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where the Dervichs made their abode. There are but two Inns, and those very bad ones, in Amasia. But the soil is good, and bears the best Wine and Fruits in all Natolia.

Ainabachar, is the name of an Inn, distant a quarter of a League from a great Town where they fetch their Provisions.

Turcall is a great Town near to a Mountain, upon which there stands a Castle. The River that comes from Tocat washes the Houses, and we caught excellent Fish in it. In that place is another of the fairest Inns upon the Road.

From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocat, where the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan meets.

Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain, spreading it self round about a great Rock that stands almost in the midst of the Town, upon the top whereof a high Castle commands the neighbouring parts, with a good Garrison in it. It is very ancient, and the remainder of three others that stood there in former times. The City is very well inhabited with Turks, who are the Lord Con∣trollers, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews. The Streets are very narrow, but the Houses are indifferent well built; and and among several Mosquees, there is one very magnificient, which seems to be newly rear'd. There was also a very fair Inn going up, which when I last travell'd that way, was not quite finish'd. There is one thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat, which is not to be found in any Inns upon the Road, That round about all the Caravansera's in the Town, there are ••odgings which they let out to Merchants, that desire to be by themselves out of the noise and hurry of the Caravans, whiles they stay at Tocat. Besides that, in those private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine, and provide for the rest of your Journey; which is not so easily done in the publick Inns, where the Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants, to draw Money out of their pockets. The Christians have twelve Churches at Tocat, and there resides an Archbishop, that has under him seven Suffragans. There are also two Monasteries for Men, and two for Women; and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat, the Country is all inhabited by Armenian Christians, but very few Greeks being intermix'd among them. The greatest part of these Christians are Tradesmen, and for the most part Smiths. A fair River runs about half a quarter of a League from the City, which rises near to Erzerom, and is cross'd at Tocat over a very beautiful stone Bridge. Upon the North side of the City, it waters a Plain three or four days Journey in extent, and two or three Leagues broad. It is very fertil, and replenish'd with fair Vil∣lages very well peopl'd. A man may live very cheap at Tocat: the Wine is most excellent, and all sort of rare Fruit very plentiful. It is the only place in all Asia where plenty of Saffron grows, which is the best Commodity you can carry to the Indies, where a Pound, as the Years fall out, is worth thirteen or fourteen * 1.1Franks, though the Wax that preserves it, be as much in weight as the Saffron. This City, with the Lands belonging to it, usually is the Dowager Sultanesses Joynture. There is only an Aga and a Cady, that command there in the behalf of the Grand Signor: for the Basha, from whom they receive their Orders, lives at Sivas, which is the ancient Sebastia, and a very great City, some three days journey from Tocat. In short, Tocat is one of the most remarkable Thoroughfares in the East, where are continually lodg'd the Caravans from Persia, Diarbequer, Bagdat, Constantinople, Smyrna, Synopus, and other places; and here the Caravans turn off, as they are variously bound. They that are for Constantinople, take to the Winter West upon the right hand; they that are for Smyrna, incline to the Summer West, upon the left hand. When you set out either way out of Tocat, there is a Toll-gatherer that counts all the Camels and Horses that pass by, and exacts for every Camel a quarter of a Rixdollar, and for every Horse half as much. As for the Horses or Camels that carry the Passengers or their Provisions, they pay nothing. This con••••••ual concourse of the Caravans trolls the Money about at Tocat, and makes it one of the most con∣siderable Cities of Turkie.

Setting out of Tocat to go to Erzerom, you discover a little Village so situated under a Hill, as if the Mountain lay atop of it; and between that Mountain and the River, the Road is very narrow where the Caravan is to pass. In this Road it was, that we met the Grand Visier returning from Hunting, with a Train of four

hundred men: so soon as he perceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty to pass by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon which he particularly cast his Eye; which made him send for the Caravan Bacchi to know who we were. The Caravan Bacchi, to avoid the ill Consequences of jealousie which the Visier might have of the Franks, at a time when the Grand Visier made War in Persia, told him we were Jews; at which the Visier, shaking his Head, reply'd only that we did not look like such, and happy it was for us that he took reply'd only that we did not look like such, and happy it was for us that he took no farther notice. For it was twenty to one, but that upon better consideration he might have sent after us to have stopt us. But when he came home to his Lodging he found a Capigi staying for him, with Orders from the Grand Signor to take off his Head, which were presently executed. For Amurath being troubl'd for the loss of his Army, had no way but to revenge himself upon the person that had the command of it.

Notwithstanding that the Caravans rest at Tocat, yet they stay likewise two or three days at Charkliqueu, which is not above two Leagues distant from it; for Charkliqueu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil Hills, where there grows excellent Wine. It is for the most part inhabited by Christians, who are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat leather Skins being drest in Tocat, and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats▪ leather Skins, as Diarbequir and Bagdat are for the red, Moussul or the ancient Ninivch for the yellow, and Ourfa for the black. About two thousand Paces from this Town, in the midst of a Plain rises a vast Rock, upon the North-side whereof you ascend about nine or ten steps into a Chamber with a Bed, a Table, and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the Rock. Upon the West side you ascend other five or six steps that lead to a little Gallery, about five or six Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, though it be of an extroardinary hardness. The Christians affirm that St. Chrysostom made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other Bed or Bolster than the Rock it self, in a place where they shew you the print of a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, consisting for the most part of Christian Merchants, stay at Charkliqueu, to pay their Devotions to this Rock, where the Bishop of the place, attended by some Priests, with every one a Taper in their Hands, goes and says Mass. But the main Reason is, because there grows excellent Wine in this place, which being cheaper by half here, than it is at Tocat, obliges the Armenians to stop here, to provide themselves for the rest of their Journey.

Two Leagues from Charliqueu, you cross over very high Mountains, with Pre∣cipices on both sides. It is the custom of the Armenians, when they hear of the approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Coun∣try-men and carry them fresh Provisions. These of Charliqueu coming to meet our Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Morning▪draughts, which made them so Pot▪valiant, that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by them∣selves; but by the way they were set upon by six Horse men that came from the North, where there are higher Mountains than those which we were to cross. Imme∣diately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians, in so much that two of them fell down mortally wounded, and the other sav'd himself among the Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horses and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thou∣sand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of those poor men which their own folly had brought upon them, but could not help them, by reason of the narrowness of the ways; besides, that the Thieves knowing all the by-turnings, were presently out of sight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing to leave the Body of the Caravans, either by staying too far behind, or running too fast before: and some have suffer'd for distancing themselves not above five hun∣dred Paces from it.

The Caravans do not not make their Journeys all alike; but come to their Stages sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according as they meet with Waters and Inns, or places fit to pitch their Tents in, to which places the Natives bring Provision and Provender from the Mountains. There are some places where there is a neces∣sity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May▪ when the Grass is high, it costs nothing to seed the Horses and Camels For as

soon as the Caravan is lodg'd, the Servants go and cut the Grass from off the Hil∣locks, where it is much better then upon the Plains. But while the Beasts feed only upon Grass they are much weaker, and cannot travel so far as at other times.

From the Mountain where the Armenians were set upon, you come to Almous, a little Village upon a River, which you cross, over a Bridge of Wood.

Going out of Almous, you cross a large Plain, at the end whereof you lodge upon the Bank of a fair River, call'd Toufanlou-sou, which falls into the River of Tocat.

Having pass'd this River, you ascend a high Mountain, which the People of the Country call Kara▪behir▪beguiendren, or, the Mountain that stops the Grand Signors; for it is very rugged, and you must of necessity alight to ascend it. In that bad Way two Horses that carry'd each of them two Bales of English Cloth burst under their Burthen, which prov'd excellent Food for several Tartars that were before us, and were pitch'd in the place where we intended to have lodg'd our selves; so that we were forc'd to go a quarter of a League farther. These Tartars when they heard of our two dead Horses, made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or sixteen of them with all joy imaginable to devour it. They flea'd the Horses, and when they came back (for I stay'd to see them) they brought every one a great piece of Flesh between the Saddle and their Horses backs. For by that means the Flesh mortifies, and bakes as it were, through the motion and heat of the Horse, and so they eat it without any more a-do. I saw one of them that took a piece of those Horses Flesh, and after he had beaten it soundly between two nasty Linnen Clothes, with a piece of Stick, set his Teeth in it, and devour'd it with a very greedy ap∣petite.

Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mention'd, there is a Plain, and in the midst of the Plain a Fountain call'd Chesmé-beler, or, A Fountain of Christal; near to which, on the South-side, there stands a Village.

From the place where we lodg'd, we came to a little Town called Adras, the In∣habitants whereof are all Armenians.

Aspidar is but two Leagues from Adras, and is but a Village.

Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains, where the Caravan generally stays one or two days; as well to pay the Custom, which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon every Camel, and half as much for every Horse; as for the excellency and cheap∣ness of the Wine, where every Man provides for himself.

Twice we pass'd by and paid nothing, in regard that the Caravan was too strong for the Toll-gatherers; and were it not that they stay for the Wine, they might go directly forward without paying any thing.

Leaving Isbeder, we came to another great Town in the Mountains; all the Houses are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is seated, as are also all the Stair-Cases. From this Village, having pass'd a River, over a wooden Bridge, at the end ▪whereof there stands an Inn, you come to Zacapa, another Village, from whence through very narrow passages, where you are forc'd to unload the Camels, and carry your Goods upon Mens shoulders for thirty Paces together, you come to encamp in a little Plain. It lyes at the foot of a high Mountain, which they call Dikmebell, beyond which lies the Town Kourd Aga, after which you cross three Rivers; one fordable, the other over two Bridges, and then you come to a Village call'd Garmeru.

From Garmeru you go to Seukmen, another Village; from Seukmen to Louri; from Louri to Chaouqueu, which are two very handsom Towns.

I saw an Old man at Chaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old, who when Sultan Amurath besieged Bagdat, gave his whole Army as much Oats as serv'd them one whole day. In recompence whereof, the Sultan exempted him and his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives.

Leaving Chaouqueu, you come to a high craggy Mountain which is call'd Aaggi∣dogii, or, The Bitter Mountain. The Ways being narrow, the Caravan is forc'd to travel single; and then it is that they count all the Horses, and all the Camels; every Horse and every Camel paying to the Caravan-Master a certain Duty, which amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous. One part of that Money is to pay seven or eight Armenians, that guard the Caravan all the way; another part

defrays the Expences upon the Road; and the remainder is the Captain of the Ca∣ravan's Profit.

Having pass'd this Mountain, you come•• to lodge in a Plain which they call Gio∣ganderesi, and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the way, Achikala, Ginnis, and Higia, which are the Caravan's Stages. During these three last days▪ journeys, you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the most part, which is yet but narrow, taking its source Northward of Erzerom. 'Tis a wonderful thing to see the vast quantities of large Asparagus that grow all along the River, with which you may load several Camels.

A League on this side Erzerom the Caravan is constrain'd to stop; For the Officer of the Custom▪House accompani'd with the Basha's Lieutenant, comes here and tyes all the Bales and Chests with a cross Cord, upon which he puts a Seal, to the end that when the Merchants come to the Town, they may not be able to take out any Bags of Money, or any pieces of Stuff on purpose to hide them till they go away. The particular Business of the Basha's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan, is to see whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines. And if he desire any Bottles, whether it be then, or in the City, where they are not asham'd to visit every Merchant, there is no refusing them. For there grows no Wine at Erzerom, all that is drank there being a small Wine of Mingrelia, which is always green: which forces the Merchants to furnish themselves with Wine at Tocat, which they may do sufficiently to last them into Persia. The Officer of the Custom-House generally allows the Caravan three days to rest; during which time, he sends to the principal Merchants some Fruit and other small Refreshments, by which he is no loser. After the three days are over, he comes and opens all the Bales and Chests, and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes. This Search and the changing of Beasts, causes the Caravan to stay generally twenty or five and twenty days at Erzerom.

Erzerom is a frontier Town of Turkie toward Persia. It is situated at the end of a large Plain environ'd with Mountains, the Plain being beautified with many fair Villages. If you take in the Castle and the Suburbs, it may pass for a City, but the Houses are ill built of Wood, without any neatness or proportion. There are some Remains of Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians, by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful. The Fortress stands upon a high ground, with a double Wall, square Towers close one to another, and a pitiful Moat. The Basha resides there but in a very ill House, all the Buildings about the Fortress being in a bad condition. In the same Enclosure there is a little rising Ground upon which they have rais'd a small Fort, wherein the Janisary-Aga lives, and where the Basha has no Power. When the Grand Signor has a mind to the Head of this Basha, or any other considerable Person in the Province, he sends a Capigi, with order to the Janisary to send for the Person to the little Fort, where the Execution is presently done. One Example hereof I saw in my last Travels into Persia: For the Basha of Erzerom not having sent Twelve thousand men so soon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy, the same Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death, had the same Order for the Exe∣cution of the Basha of Kars; and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village, upon his return for Constantinople, he would needs shew me whether I would or no, the Heads of the two Basha's, which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a Bag.

Between the first and second Gate of the Fortress are to be seen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon, most excellent Guns, but lying one upon another without Car∣riages. They lye at Erzerom to be ready upon all occasions when the Grand Signor makes war against the Persians.

There are in Erzerom several great Inns; this City, like Tocat, being one of the greatest Thoroughfares in Turkie. The Country about it bears Wine, but not very good, and in regard the People are strictly forbid to drink Wine, the Merchants are forc'd to buy it very privately, for fear it should come to the know∣ledge of the Cadi. Though it be very cold at Erzerom, Barly grows there in fourty days, and Wheat in sixty, which is very remarkable. The Customs paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver, and upon all other Commodities, is very severe. Silk, that comes out of Persia, pays four and twenty Crowns for a

Camel's Load, which is eight hundred Pounds. For in the mountainous Coun∣tries a Camel's Load is no more; but in the plain and even Countries they make 'em carry above ten hundred weight. A Load of Indian Calicuts pays a hundred Crowns; but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than those of Silk. As for other Commodities, they pay Six per cent according to their value.

From this Stage the Caravan sets forward to a Fortress call'd Hassan Kala, where you must pay half a Piaster for every Camel's or Horses Load going from Erzerom to Erivan, but returning you, pay but half as much.

Leaving this Fortress, you must go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is call'd Coban-Cupri. Over this Bridge, which is the fairest in the whole Journey, you cross two Rivers which there meet, one is the Kars, and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain call'd Binguiel, both which disburthen themselves into the Aras. The Caravan usually stays a day or two at this Bridge; because the Cara∣van divides it self at this place, some continuing on the High-road, others taking the Road of Kars, as well to avoid fording the Aras several times, as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road, where they exact four Piasters upon every Camel's Load, and two upon every Horse-Load, whereas at Kars you are dis∣miss'd for half so much.

I went Kars Road twice; but it is longer, and more troublesome than the other. As soon as you leave the Bridge, for the first four days you travel over woody Mountains, and very desert Countries, where you meet but with one Village; but coming near Kars the Country is more pleasant, and well manur'd; bearing all sorts of Grain.

Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude, and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude; in a very good Soil. The City is very large, but thinly peopl'd, though Provision be very plentiful and very cheap. But the Grand Signor always choosing that place to rendezvouz his Army, whenever he intended to recruit it, and to lodge his People there which he sent to build Villages; the King of Persia has ruin'd all the Country, as he did at Sulfa, and in many other Frontier places, for nine or ten days journey together.

From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey, and lyes where it can find most convenience, there being no certain Stages. The first days journey ends at a Monastery and a Village, the one no less deserted than the other. The next day you come to the Ruines of a great City, call'd Anikagae, in the Armenian Language the City of Ani, which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it. By the Wall, on the East-side, runs a rapîd stream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia, and empties it self into the River of Kars. This City was very strongly situated; being placed in a Mersh, where are to be seen the Remains of two Causeys that only lead to the Town. There are the Ruines of several Monasteries; among the rest two that are entire, suppos'd to be Royal Foundations. From thence to Erivan for two days jourhey, you meet with only two Villages; near the last of which you ride by the side of a Hill, whether when the Caravan passes by, the people bring Horses from several parts to be sold. The Great Road from the Bridge, where the Caravan parts, lyes thus:

Two Leagues from the Bridge, on the right hand toward the South, lyes a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol. In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs, and from one side of it falls Euphrates, from the other side the River of Kars, which empties it self into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this side Erivan. The Aras, which the Ancients call'd Araxes, falls from other Mountains Eastward of Mingol, which after many windings through the Upper Armenia, where it receives many other Rivers that swell its Streams, it discharges it self into the Caspian Sea, two days journey from Shamaki, upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes.

The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars, and several other Streams that fall into them, inhabited by very few, but what are Christians; those few Mahumetans that live among them being so superstitious, that they will not drink the Water of any of those Rivers, nor wash in them▪ believing them impure and defil'd by the use which the Christians make of them. They have their particular Wells and Cisterns by themselves, which they will not suffer a Christian to come near.

Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri, going to Erivan.

Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour: this is a great Town also inhabited by Christians, but the Houses are built all under-ground like Caves. Coming thither the 7th of March 1655, the Snow was so deep that there was no travelling, so that we were forc'd to stay there eight days. But the Customer of Erzerom under∣standing in what a bad condition we were, came in person with five hundred Horse to make way for us, and sent for the Country people round about to clear away the Snow. But it was not so much out of kindness to us, as for his own Interest. For a new Officer being to succeed him upon the 22^d o•• March, and our Caravan being very numerous, he would have lost above an Hundred Thousand Crowns, had we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Passengers were almost blinded by continually looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the Sight: for preservation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cypress Hoods, made on purpose, over their faces. Others wear furr'd Bonnets fring'd about with Goats hair, which being long, falls over their Eyes, and does altogether as well as the Hood.

The Caravan is usually twelve days upon the Road, from Erzerom to Erivan. Leaving Halicarcara, you ford the Aras three times, and cross it the next day again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you ford it the fourth time, upon the top of a high Mountain stands a Fortress call'd Kaguisgan, which is the last place which the Turks possess on that side. The Cu∣stomers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll, which is four Piasters for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horse loaden. In the year 1655 the Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortress of Kaguisgan, the Mountains adjoyning being inhabited by Christian Armenians, there came to us a poor Bishop attended by fifteen or sixteen persons, among which there were certain Priests who brought us Bread, Fowl, and Fruit, desiring the Charity of the Merchants, who recompenc'd them to their satisfaction. About four or five Months after, this Bishop had one of his Eyes struck out by a Janisary. That wicked Fellow came to the Town where the Bishop liv'd, and lighting upon the Bishop, ask'd him for Money, which because the Bishop had none to give him, in a rage he stabb'd him in the Eye with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga, who 'tis thought would have punish'd the Offender, but he fled, and lest the Bishop without remedy of satis∣faction.

From the last place where we encamp'd near the Aras, we went and lodg'd the next day upon the same River, in the sight of a Village not above a quarter of a League. The Next day we cross'd the River that runs from Kars, and parts Turkie from Persia. The next day we stop'd upon the Banks of Aras, half a League from a little Town; and this is the last time you see this River which you are constrain'd to pass so often.

Leaving Aras, we came to lodge in a plain, in sight of a Town which is not far distant. The next day the Caravan lyes in the Field, and the next day it comes to a place where there are three Churches, whence it is but half a days journey from Erivan.

CHAP. III.

A Continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, from the Borders of Persia to Erivan.

THE first Place worthy observation, entring into Persia through Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan; which Three Churches, are three Monasteries distant one from the other. The biggest and the fairest is the Residence of the Patri∣arch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket shot distant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the East, which is a

Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egm••asin, or the only Daughter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Christ, and that the Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down what they built up in the Day; which he did for several Years: but that one Night Christ himself appear'd, and that from that time the Devil surceas'd to molest them any more; so that they finish'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Christ rested when he appear'd to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiss this Stone with a very solemn Devotion.

The second is built in honour of a Princess that came with forty Virgins of Qua∣lity to visit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents? but she receiv'd no harm. For she li••'d▪ therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That idolatrous King had a design to have enjoy'd that Princess, who was very handsome, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, seeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death.

The Custom of all the Armenians, as well those that come out of Persia, as those that travel into Persia, is to perform their Devotions at these Three Churches; and the Caravan stops usually five or six days, during which time they Confess, and receive Absolution from the Patriarch.

The Patriarch has under him forty seven Archbishops, and every Archbishop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are several Monks under their Jurisdiction. So soon as they have said their Mass, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or there∣abouts: for all the Armenian Christians that are above fifteen Years of age, ought to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reason of their poverty. Yet their defect is suppli'd by the rich, who sometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not stay in the Pa∣triarch's Pocket: nay he is sometimes behind-hand; for he is engag'd to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage, which is an Annual Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are subject: Other∣wise necessity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be sold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbishop sends him out of his Diocess what is necessary to be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no profit to himself of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbishop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me to be under his Jurisdiction.

As I return'd from Persia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan stay'd there eleven Days, as well by reason of the great Snows that stop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians resolv'd to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to visit the Patriarch, who was sitting cross-leg'd upon a Mat. There were four Arch∣bishops, and nine Bishops sitting about him in the same posture, among whom there was one that spake very good Italian. I stayed with him three Hours; and while we were discoursing together, in came one of the Monks of the Covent, who had not spoken to any person whatsoever in Two and twenty Years, by reason of a Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear so meager and de∣formed; but the Patriarch sent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break silence, which he did, by speaking at the same Instant.

The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Masters as Servants, to hear Mass the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Mass being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both sides, made of several Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery stands a Table four Foot square, over which is a vaulted Roof sustain'd with four Pillars, which serves

for a Canopy: in the midst whereof is a Chair set for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both sides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbishops: the other Archbishops, Monks, and Guests sate at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was several sorts of Pilaw, and se∣veral Dishes of Fish, among the rest excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, so well fill'd and so large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all set down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then six Bishops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into lesser, serv'd both the Tables. Every one had also his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was fill'd again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbishops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbishops that sate at the Table.

At the end of the Feast, a Bishop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleases to Subscribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one proposing, according to his Devotion, the Bishop writes down the Names of the Persons, and the Sum which they mention; which he comes and gathers the next day. There are some rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meanest Servant will give an Or. The Bishop having done writing, the Ta∣ble was clear'd, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a short while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church.

After Evening Service the Patriarch sent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great store in that Country, some serving to Till their Ground, while the Female ones yield store of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheese, and which they mingle with all sorts of other Milk: There are some of these female Beasts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day.

They brought us into a wide Enclosure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one against another, they shew them a Red Cloth, which puts them into such a Rage, that there were two that dy'd with the stroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the rest which were not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpose to set it on Fire. When the Wood was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbishops presented a Ta∣per of white Wax to all the Company, both Masters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they should give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bishop's Crosier, march'd before, singing an Hymn, attended by all the Persons both Ecclesiastical and Secular, till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great striving who should have the Honour. One of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl, for Lamps for the Church; another out-did him, and a third proffer'd more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offer'd most. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they esteem it a most precious business; believing that the lighting of one of those Tapers in a Storm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a present Charm against Shipwrack. For say they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after she was brought to Bed, went to Jerusalem with Joseph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to sing the Song, Lord▪ now let thy Servant, &c. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Christ was born, and to publish it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and some made Fires before their Doors, where Christ was to pass along. This Festival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Masters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival: while the Patriarch was busie in dressing up the Church with its gayest Ornaments.

I could not believe there had been so much Riches in the Christian Churches under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years since this Patriarchal Church was in a much meaner Condition: But since the great Sha-Abas put the Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themselves: For as they go•• great Gains; so they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church▪

[illustration]

[illustration]

••a••er••••ers Persian travels Pag. 13

wherein there are now as rich Ornaments as in any Church of Christendom. The Choir of the Church was hung round with a Venetian Tissue of Gold. The Pavement also of the Choir and the Body of the Church, together with the Steps to the Altar, were spread with rich Tapestry. For they all put off their Shooes before they go into the Church; nor do the Armenians kneel as in Europe, but stand all the while upright. When they hear Mass, they sit after the Mode of the Country, but when the Lessons are reading they stand up. All the Service-time their Heads are cover'd, unless at the Elevation of the Host, for then they take off their Bonnets, and kiss the Earth three times. There was upon the Altar a Cross, with six Candlesticks of Gold; and upon the Steps to the Altar four Candlesticks of Silver five foot high. After they had sung several Hymns, the Patriarch seated himself in a Chair cover'd with Silk Tapestry, four Archbishops sitting with their Backs to a Pillar at his right hand. The Service was solemnly perform'd by an Archbishop, with two Bishops on each side of him. After the Archbishop had made certain Prayers, he took the Book wherein he had read the Gospel and gave it the Patriarch, the Archbishops, Bishops, and all the People to Kiss. On the one side of the Cover of that Book there are two Relicks enchas'd, which are cover'd with Crystal, which was the side of the Book that was given to be Kiss'd. The Ceremony being ended, many went to Kiss the Patriarch's Hand, and so retir'd.

Ten Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, appears a great Lake, wherein there is an Island, upon which is built a very fair Covent. The Monks that live there, live so austere a Life, that they never eat Fish or Flesh above four times a Year: neither do they speak one to another, but upon those four Days. The rest of the Year they feed only upon Herbs, which they gather out of the Garden: for say they, it is not Fasting, to eat either Butter or Oyl. The Bread which they eat is brought from the neighbouring Villages: and the Island is replenish'd with all sorts of excellent Fruits.

On the one side of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain, wherein there are six Monasteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock, with the Pillars that sustain it, being seated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church Kickart in their Language, and the Turks in theirs Guicurghieche, that is, See and away. In this Church, according to the Traditions of the Armenians, is kept the Lance wherewith the Side of Christ was pierc'd; the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, saying, that it was brought thither by St. Matthew.

Five Leagues from Erivan, towards the South-East, begins the Mountain Ararat; which will be always famous for being the resting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a Leaugue from that Mountain, where the Plain begins to grow level, stands a Church upon a little Hillock, close by which are several Pits like Wells. They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda, an Armenian King, caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown, because he would not Worship his false Gods. Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate, the Seat of the Kings of Armenia, which demonstrate that it has been a great City: besides, there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace.

Erivan lies in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude; 41 Degrees, 15 Mi∣nutes of Latitude; in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life, but especially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia, and yields the King a very large Revenue, as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil, as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The yearly Revenue of the Governour only, otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan, amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840000 Livres. This City ly∣ing upon the Frontiers of both Empires, has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians, several times. By which means the old City being ruin'd, they have built a new one, 800 Paces on this side, upon a Rock, at the foot whereof, upon the West-side runs a rapid Stream: it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija, and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks. You cross it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, in which are built little Chambers, where the Kan retires in the heat of the day. It is full of Fish▪ especially Trouts, which nevertheless are dear enough. This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni; about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the

North, and falls into the Aras, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South. Though this City be fortified to the West by the River, yet it is never the stronger, by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it: and in regard it is built upon a rock, the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In some places the City is secur'd with a double Wall with several Towers; but the Walls being only of Earth, as are most of the Houses, the Rain does more mis∣chief, than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North-West, is a kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited then the City: for there live all the Mer∣chants and Artificers, together with the Christian Armenians, who have four Churches there, with a Monastery. And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter. In the City there only lives the Kan, with the Military Officers and Souldiers; the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governour is a Person of great Power, and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Erivan, he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives, he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof: and if any Ambassador come thither, he is bound to maintain him at his own expence, and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour, who is oblig'd to do the same. So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expenees in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains, where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun▪burnt Countries toward Chaldea, come Twenty Thousand together, to seek out good Pasturage for their Cattel▪ and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country. I cannot compare this Mountanious Tract, whether for its Valleys▪ and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have seen, better than to that proportion of Switzerland, which is call'd the Country of Vanx: and there is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain people that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura, and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army, having serv'd him in his Conquests, seated themselves in this part of Armenia, which they found so like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians. Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia, 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Arme∣nians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, which is their native Country; but they are well us'd by the Governours, who being far distant from the Court, do what they please. This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come, is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses, as in Turkie. They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways; which Duties they call Rade∣ries, and those tha•• gather them Raders.

The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers, especially to those that they like, or that shew them any thing of Curiosity. The first time that I went into Persia I took a young Watchmaker with me, and coming to Erivan, I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour. It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia; and the Kan, understanding what▪ Trade the Young Man was of, told us he was the first Watch-maker that ever had been in Persia: Thereupon he brought the young man a Watch to mend, and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work, he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own, and made us drink with him every day; for he was a true Toper, and com∣pell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight, in a place which he had made on purpose, in his Garden, to take off his Glasses.

This was he, that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat, went along with him to Constantinople, and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City; but Sha-Shefi the Persian King begirt it presently with a strong Army; and planting him securely under one of the Hills that command the City, he batter'd it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon: the fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward, he was the first at the Assault, and took the City: and because they would not yield at his Summons, he put all the Garrison to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sha-Shefi afterwards, though not in so noble a way; for entering a Victor into Bagdat, he put all the Persians to the Sword, after he had given them his word to the contrary, and promis'd to spare their lives.

[illustration]

The Platform of Erivan and the Suburbs.

• A. The Town and Fort.
• B. The Suburbs, inhabited by the Armenian Christians.
• C. The Church.
• D. The Covent.
• E. The River of Sangui-cija.
• F. The Stone Bridge.
• G The Highway for the Caravans.
• H. The Fort which Sha-Sefi built to batter the City.
• I. The River that falls from the Mountain.
• K. The Highway to T uris.
• L. The way to ••efl•••• the chief City of Georgia; and the way to the Mountain where th•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 twice a Summer to drink.
• M. The Market places, for 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉〈◊〉.

CHAP. IV.

A Continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris.

IT usually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris; and Naksivan is almost in the mid-way between both. The first days journey you travel through large Plains sow'd with Rice, and water'd with several Rivulets. The next day you contiue to Travel through Plains of the same nature, in sight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Mona∣steries, leaving it upon the South. The Armenians call this Mountain Mesesoufar, The Mountain of the Ark; because the Ark of Noah rested upon it. It is as it were unfasten'd from the other Mountains of Armenia, and from the half-way to the top, it is continually cover'd with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains; and in my first Travells I saw it for five days Journey together. So soon as the Armenians discover it, they kiss the Earth, and lifting up their eyes to Heaven, say their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice, that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together: In the plains that you cross in this second days journey, to the Southward a League and a half from the High∣way, is to be seen a work of great Art; being the Ruines of a Magnificent Castle, where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reside in the time of their Hunting Divertisements; more especially when they continu'd their sports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water, which constrain'd the Caravan to stay there; there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther. The next day you must Travel one by one through the Pass of a Mountain, and cross a large River nam'd Arpason, which falls into Aras. It is fordable when it is low, but when the Snow melts and swells the stream, you must go a League out of your way to the Southward to cross it, over a Bridge of Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend, where you are forc'd to fetch you Water a good way off. The first days journey is through a Plain, at the end whereof you meet with an Inn, call'd Kara-bagler, standing upon a Rivulet; which was finish'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet springs three or four Leagues higher toward the North; and half a League below Kara-Bagler, the Water congeals and petrifies; and of those Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is very slight; and when they have need of it, they make Trenches all along the Stream, and fill them with the same Water, which in eight or ten Months turns into Stone. The Water is very sweet, and has no bad tast; yet the Country-men thereabouts will neither drink it, no water their Grounds with it. The Arme∣nians say, that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd, out of which this River issues; which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a small Journey. Naksivan,

according to the Opinion of the Armenians, is the most ancient City of the World▪ built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah rested: from whence it also takes its Name; for Nak in the Armenian Tongue signifies a Ship, and Sivan, resting or reposing. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruin'd by the Army of Sultan Amurath. There are the Remains of several rare Mosquees, which the Turks have destroy'd; for the Turks and Persians destroy one anothers Mosquees as fast as they fall into one anothers possession. This City is very ancient, and the Armenians report, that it was in this place where Noah went to live, when he went out of the Ark. They say further, that he was Buried here; and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little River by Naksivan, the Water whereof is very good; the Spring whereof is not far distant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town, which is now very much abated: however, there is a Kan which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly destroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Persia, and the first of that Name; to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any subsistance, might perish of themselves. To this purpose, he sent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoyning into Persia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Chil∣dren, with which he planted new Colonies in several parts of his Kingdome. He sent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come; and where the harshness of the Climate kill'd abundance of those poor people, that were accustom'd to a milder Air. The most considerable were sent to Ispahan, where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and lent them Commodities, for which they paid upon the return of their Markets, which suddenly set the Ar∣menians upon their Feet again. These are they that Built the City of Zulfa, which is only separated from Ispahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa, to distinguish it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Ancestors. A third part of the people were dispers'd into other Villages between Ispahan and Sciras. But the old People dying, the young ones generally turn Mahumetans: so that now you can hardly meet with two Christian Armenians in all those fair Plains, which their Fathers were sent to manure.

Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Mosquee, which was one of the most stately Buildings in the World: which some say was built in memory of N••ah's Burying-place. As you depart out of the City, near to the River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture: It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together, which support a kind of a Pyramid, that seems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers; but toward the middle it changes its figure, and lessening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, but as well the out-side as the in-side is over-spread with a kind of Varnish of Parget, wrought into Flowers, like Emboss'd work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice, set up by Temur-leng when he had Conquer'd Persia.

Between Naksivan and Zulfa, on each side, as well to the North as to the South, there are ten Covents of Christian Armenians, distant about two or three Leagues one from the other. They acknowledge the Pope, and are govern'd by certain Religious Dominicans of their own Nation. And to keep up their Religion, they send from time to time to Rome certain Children born in the Country, to learn the Latin and Italian Tongues, and other necessary Sciences. It is thought there are in this Quarter above six thousand Souls that absolutely follow the Doctrine of the Church of Rome; only that they sing the Office and the Mass in the Armenian Tongue, that all the People may hear and understand them. The Archbishop, being chosen, is sent to Rome to be confirm'd. He resides at a great Town, which is one of the most lovely places in all Asia; the Wine and Fruits that grow there are very delicate, besides the abundance of all other things necessary for Humane Life. Every Covent stands near a great Village: the chiefest where I have been twice, is Aba∣••ener, the second Abraghonnex, the third Kerna, the fourth Soletak, the fifth Kouchkachen, the sixth Giaouk, the seventh Chiabonnez, the eighth Araghouche, the ninth Kauzuk, the tenth Kisouk, which lyes upon the Frontiers of Curdistan or Assyria: Here it is, that the Armenians believe St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew to have been Martyr'd, of which they pretend to shew some Relicks at this day, Many Mahometans came thither out of Devotion, especially such as are troubl'd

with Feavers. There are two or three of those Convents, where they civilly entertain such Christians as come out of Europe; though the Monks there are very poor. They also live very austere lives, feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which makes them so poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they are oblig'd to present with large Gifts But in regard they cannot give much, those Governours have no kindness for them; for which reason, being instigated by those other Armenians who are able to oblige them, they use them so severely, that they are often forc'd to complain to the King; which I have many times seen done at Ispahan.

A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain, separated from all the rest, which rises like a Sugar loaf, as doth the Pike of a Tena∣riff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents; in so much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately.

When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulpha, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians usually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lyes to the South.

Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephen's lyes first to a great Village call'd Ecclisia, where live the richest Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church.

Two Leagues from Ecclesia you must cross the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were fqueez'd between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket shot from thence, you must cross over a Bridge, another River that salls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to ascend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is such a madness that it is not mischievous. Some believe it to be the Punishment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in these Mountains persecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew.

From hence to Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very trouble∣som. St. Stephen's is a Convent built not above 30 years ago. It stands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult access. But the reason why the Armenians chose that place before any other, is because that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Persecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place; for that there being no Water there before, he only struck his stick upon the Ground, and presently there arose a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Convent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wasted. The Armenians go to visit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They also say, that in this place they found several Relicks which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew lest there, to which they add a great many others; among the rest a Cross, made of the Basin wherein Christ wash'd his Disciples Feet: In the middle of the Cross is a white Stone, which as they report, if you lay upon a Sick person, will turn black if the person be likely to dye; and recover its former whiteness after the death of the party.

A law Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr.

The Scull of St. Matthew.

A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St John Baptist.

A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Disciple of Dionysius the Areopagite.

A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Disciples.

The Church is built in the form of a Cross, as are all the Churches of the Arme∣nians; in the middle whereof rise•• a fa r Duomo, round about which stand the twelve Apostles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free stone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wasted upon the Walls: Many Armenian Families have been very much endamag'd thereby; for the Women were so devout, that unknown to their Husbands they sold their Jewels, and their very Cloaths to defray the Expences of Building.

The first time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of some Armenians, two Bishops, attended by several other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us

into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the custom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to present their Guests a large Cup of Aqua-Vitae, with Sweet-meats of all sorts, besides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd, in seven or eight Porcelan-dishes, laid in a great China Basin. This is a little Prelude to excite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aqua-Vitae. After Dinner they go to Church, where they sing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a sufficient number of Mattresses or Quilts to lye upon; for they use no other sort of Beds over all Asia: only at Night you spread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and shut the Door. We saw not the Archbishop all that Evening, only at Church.

About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rose to go to Church. I belieye it was more than usual, because it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Missa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we saw abundance of the Neigh∣bouring Country people, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provisions, and presented all to the Archbishop.

While we were at Breakfast news came that a certain Bishop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was sent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbishop rising from the Table with all his Assistants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, sent a Bishop and six Monks to fetch the Corps; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was presently laid in the Church upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, with the Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the rest of the Night two monks watch'd by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbishops, the Bishops, and all in Religious Orders, said the Office for the Dead, which lasted half an Hour; and at the end of the Mas•• they brought the Corps to the Altar, so that they made the Feet of the Corps to touch it. Having so done, they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd his Head, at which time the Archbishop anointed him in six places with the Holy Oyl, saying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and said other Prayers which lasted half an Hour. These Ceremonies perform'd, they carry'd the Corps out of the Church with Crosses and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corps pass'd by, one of the Bishops put a Paper in his right hand, containing these words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and set down, they said other Prayers which lasted a quarter of an hour. In the mean time a Bishop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place smooth, after▪ which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bishop, according to ther custom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his face to the East. Which being done, the Archbishop and Assistants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbishop blest, and giving it to the Bishop, he strew'd it over the Body. Then the Bishop coming out again, the Grave was fill'd up.

From St. Stephen's there is a descent for a League together to Aras, by the side whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulpha, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublesom and toylsom, and therefore the less frequented.

But to return to the High Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Aras, which is to be cross'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unless it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meacow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of luke warm Water, which will loosen the Belles of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan. You must pay ten Abassi's for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livers, which is for the se∣curing the Highways. These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia with∣out searching the Packs. The Governours also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed: which makes it so safe travelling in Persia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unless you will your self.

From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey; which Town being altogether ruin'd, shews the reason wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this side.

Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Persia, is a Town squeez'd between two Mountains, through which the Aras runs, leaving but little Land on either side. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the Country grows low and extends it self into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks, the course of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down, when he wholly destroy'd the Town, that it might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruines, nor by its Situation, doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty; the Stones were clapt unskilfully together without Morter, so that the Houses were more like Caves than Houses. The North-West side was most inhabited, there being nothing on the other side worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil, there are certain Armenian Families return'd, who live very quietly. Cogia Nazar, one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa, growing rich by Trade, and being in great reputation with Sha-Abbas, and Sha-Sefi his Successor, who made him Kelonter, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the Honour of his Country, in Zulfa, upon each side of the River one. He spent above an hundred thousand Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfinish'd.

Half a League on this side Zulfa, before you cross a Torrent that falls into Aras, you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right hand, leading to the South East, which is the ordinary Road; the other upon the left hand, toward the North East, which we took eight or ten in company together on horseback, the last time I went to Ispahan. We left the Caravan, that takes the great Road, and never goes the other way, because it is full of Rocks and Stones that spoil the hoofs of the Camels. However I was willing to see a new Country, which I shall describe before I come to the great Road.

From the Torrent where we left the Caravan, we went forward, and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off.

The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or six Hours, we came to Astabat, which lyes a League from the River, where we staid above two Days to divert our selves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one; where there are four Inns, and every House has its Fountain. The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things; more especially in good Wine. This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is a vast utterance all over Persia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice, and is not much bigger. The use of it is to dye Red, and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country. Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are very long, yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand, for the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas, which they Ship off from thence to the Indies.

The Root is full of Juyce, and yields a very high Tincture; for I remember that an Indian Vessel that was laden with it, being cast away in the Road of Ormus, where the Bags of Ron••s floated, the Sea look'd of a red colour for several days.

Departing from Astabat, it behov'd us to provide our selves with Straw and Barley for our Horses, understanding that we should meet with none all that days journey. From thence we travell'd upon a descent for an hour together to the River Aras, which we cross'd in a Boat; and all the rest of the day we travel'd through Mountains, over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a small Stream.

The day following, after we had travel'd through a spacious Valley for two or three hours, we ascended a high Mountain, at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houses, where we stopt that day.

The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travel'd upon a

descent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly situated, where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two; and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridg on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi, but the Water of the River is so sowr and ill tasted, especially when it is low, that it is not to be drunk. About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones set in the Ground like Pillars: the Natives say that they were placed there for a Monument, in the same place where Darius the Son of Hystaspes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horse: from whence to Tauris is but half a League. The Moun∣tains of the Medes which we cross'd in this Road, and those which run along toward the ancient Parthians, are the most fertil in all Persia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance; for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains sow'd with Wheat, which are extraordinary fertil. The Springs which rise there, and Rains which fall give a fresher beauty and a higher tast to what grows there, more than in any other part of Persia that wants Water; and the products of those Fields are of a higher price.

Now for the great Road. The Caravan having cross'd the Stream where we left it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Mor∣ning. It does not go thorough Zulfa, though it be so near it; because that on the other side of the City, there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfre∣quented. For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand, which is not much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac; after which you come upon Heaths encompass'd with high Rocks. All this days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it.

The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren: where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn; though it be a place where Cost has been bestow'd, and built all of Free-stone, that was fetch'd a great way off. The next Stage is Marante, famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife. The Town is not very big; resembling rather a Thicket than a City: but the situation is very pleasant, in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with several well peopl'd Villages. This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante, the Country beyond it being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable: for being a continual Heath, it affords feeding for the Camels, which are there bred for the Caravans. Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante, who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abassi's, or four Crowns for every Camel's Load, for the security of the Road.

Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain, where the Water is worth nothing; after you have travell'd a mix'd Country, barren enough, where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley: but it is a very fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot see till you come within it, by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it, which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City.

The next day, which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan, the Caravan, having cross'd fair, large and fertil Plains, arrives at Tauris. Those Plains are water'd with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains; but the Water is not all of the same goodness, for there is some which cannot be drunk.

In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris, lyes a Hill, from whence you have a prospect over those Plains, upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd, when he besieg'd Tauris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia, that he had burnt it, and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men, Let him come, said he, without any disturbance, I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invasion without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan, when Sha-Sefi, turn'd the course of all the Streams both before and hehind, which only run from certain Springs, and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Persia, where there are no Rivers: By which means the whole Army of the Turks perish'd for want of Water in those vast un∣water'd Countries where they had engag'd themselves too far.

Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees, 30 Minutes of Longitude; and 40 Degrees, 15 Mi∣nutes of Latitude, in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen; and

environ'd with Mountains on every side, but only upon the West. The further•• Mountain is not above a League from the City; but there is one which almost touches it, being only separated from it by the River. 'Tis a good Country, and fruitful in Corn; there is good Pasturage, and great store of Pulse. Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecba••ane, the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd, as being the Mart for Turkie, Muscovy, the Indies, and Persia, There are an infinite number of Merchants, and vast quantities of all sorts▪ of Merchandize: particularly of Silk, which is brought out of the Province of Guilan, and other places. There is also a great Trade for Horses, which are handsom and cheap. Wine, Aqua-vitae, and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough; and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia. Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade, and understand it better than the Persians. A little River, the Water whereof is very good, runs through the middle of Tauris; it's call'd Schein∣kaïe, over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other.

The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun; the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most. The tops of the Houses are terrass'd; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plaister'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the City was almost ruin'd by Sultan Amurath; but it is almost all rebuilt again. There are in it Bazars, or Market-houses, which are well built, and many Inns very commodious, two Srories high. The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé Governour of the Province, who caus'd it to be built with a Market-house adjoyning, to which he has added a Mosquee and a Colledge, with good Revenues.

The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Asia: for it has a con∣tinual Trafsick with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians, Persians, Indians, Muscovites, and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houses, which are cover'd, are always full of Goods: for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades; the most part whereof are Smiths, such as make Saws, Axes, Files, and Steels to strike Fire, with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them. Some there are that make Pad-locks: for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts. There are also Turners, that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles: and some Goldsmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists, and work very neatly; and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade. Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia; for there are none unless it be the Country-people, but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses, Asses, or Mules▪ and only of the hinder part of the Hide: but the Asses Hide has the best grain.

There are to be seen at Tauris, Ruines of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza, and the neighbouring parts: they have also let run to ruine four or five Mosquees of a prodigious height and bigness. The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town, in the Road to Ispahan. The Persians will not come near it, but look upon it as defil'd, and a Mosquee of He∣reticks, in regard it was built by the Sounnis, or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a vast Structure fairly built, the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad, with an ascent of eight Steps. It is lin'd without with Brick-work varnish'd with different Co∣lours; and adorn'd within with very fair Painting A l'antique, and abundance of Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two sides of the Fore-front are rear'd two Minarets or Towers very high, but not very wide, yet with Stairs to go up to the top. They are lin'd with varnish'd Brick-work, which is the usual Ornament of the Persian Buildings: and at the top stand two Cupola's, form'd like the Turbants which the Persians wear. The Gate of the Mosquee is not above four Foot wide, cut out of a great transparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, and twelve broad. Entring at the Door of the Mosquee, you come into a spacious Duomo, thirty six Paces in Diameter, rais'd upon twelve Pillars within, and sup∣ported by sixteen without, which Pillars are very high, and six Foot square. Below there is a Balustrade or Rails that run round about the Building, with Doors to go

from one side to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble, is hollow'd into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their Shooes, when they go farther to their Devotions. The inside of the Walls is varnish'd in Squares of several Colours, with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters intermix'd, and wrought in Emboss'd work, so well painted, so well gilded that it seems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of Scissars. From this Duomo you pass to another lesser, but more beautiful in its kind. The lower pa••t is of transparent white Stone, of the same nature with that in the Front, cut in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars, but eight Foot high, it is all of white Marble, where are to be seen Stones of a prodigious length and bredth: The inside of the Vault is a violet Enamel, painted with all sorts of Flowers in Flat-work, but the outside of both the Duomo's is cover'd with varnish'd Brick-work, and Flowers emboss'd A la Moresque. Upon the first the Flowers are black upon green; upon the second, white Stars upon black: which diversity of Colours is very pleasing to the Eye.

Near the Door out of which you enter into the lesser Duomo, on the left hand, stands a Chair of Walnut-tree curiously-carv'd, and fasten'd to the Wall; it stands upon a Platform rais'd six steps high, without any Canopy. On the right hand stands another Chair of the same Wood, and an exquisite piece of Workmanship; with a kind of State over it of the same Wood, fasten'd to the Wall. There is a little Rail about it; and the Platform is four steps high. On the South-side of the Mosquee there are two white transparent Stones, which when the Sun shines upon them look red: And sometimes after the Sun is set, you may read at those Stones by the reflection of the Sun-beams.

Just against the Mosquee on the other side is another Front, which is the only Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck Iman, or the Chief Priest. There had been large Baths which belonged to it, but they are all destroy'd; some others there were of less note, which are not lookt aster.

In the great Piazza of Tauris and in the parts adjoyning, stands a sair Mosquee, a Colledge, and a Castle, which fall to decay; these Buildings being forsaken; by reason they were made use of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near the same Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians, whither they say St. Helena sent the true Cross. There is another Mosquee, which was formerly a Church dedicated to St. John Baptist, where they say one of his Hands was pre∣serv'd a long time.

The Capuchins have a very convenient House at Tauris; for Mirza-Ibrahim Go∣vernour of the Province, whose credit is equal to the Kan of Tauris, which is the chiefest Command in Persia, favours him very much with his protection. This Governour has made himself very considerable at Court▪ and very much respected by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting the King's Revenue: having found out such ways for that purpose, as never entred into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the the same Employment. He is very curious to learn all the Noble Sciences, which is a quality very rare among the Per∣sians: He also takes great delight in the Mathematicks and Philosophy, discoursing often with Gabriel de Chinon, Governour of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the great desire which Mirza-Ibrahim had, to have his two Sons taught by the said Gabriel, was the chief motive that made him so savourable to that Covent. He bought the Friers a place to build their House, and liberally furnish'd them for the Expence of the Work.

When the Sun sets and rises, there are a certain Company of People, who are oblig'd to make a hideous noise with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great Piazza of the City. They stand upon one side of the Piazza in a Gallery somewhat rais'd, which is a Custom observ'd in all the Cities under the Persian Government.

As you go out of Tauris upon the North-side, there is a Mountain close by, there being only the River between it. The name of it is Einali-Zeinali, and for∣merly there stood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians, which the Mahometans have converted into a Mosquee. At the bottom of the Mountain stands a Fortress and a Mosquee, which they let go to ruine, because they were built by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice stands a Mona∣stery, near to which are two Caves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars

lying along up••n the Ground. There are also in the Mosquee certain Tombs of the ancient Kings of the Medes, the Remains whereof shew that the Work was very Excellent.

Upon the Road from Tauris to Ispahan, about half a League from the utmost Gardens, between several knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the right hand, upon the top of the highest of all, where there never was any Water, and where it is impossible to bring any, appears a Bridge Fifty paces long, the Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built it, out of what design no person new: nor can you come to Tauris upon that side, but you mu••t see that Bridge, because there is no other way, there being nothing but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confess'd that he built it out of meer Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abbas the first of that name, was to come to Tauris. The King indeed came some time after, and seeing an unprofitable Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his design. To whom the Mollah return'd this answer, Sir, said he, I built that Bridge, that when your Majesty ••••me to Tauris, you might inform your self from the mouth of him that built it. By which it appear'd that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to speak to him.

A League from Tauris to the West, in the middle of a field, stands a great Brick Tower, call'd Kanhazun. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half ruin'd, yet it is very high. It se••ms to have been the Dungeon of some Castle, there being very high Walls round about it; which though they be but of Earth, nevertheless appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this Tower, but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us some reason to conclude that it was a Mahometan structure. In the year 1651 there happen'd a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabouts, by which many houses were over∣turn'd, and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom, a good part of it fell down, and fill'd up the hollow within-side.

Besides the little River that runs by Tauris, there is another bigger to be cross'd about half a League from the ••ity, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge: Near to it stands a Sepulcher, cover'd with a little Duomo, where the Persians say that the Sister of Iman Riza lyes interr'd; and they have it in great veneration. The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North, and falls into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggi∣sou, or Bitter▪water; for the Water is very bad, and without any Fish. The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compass, has the same quality, the Water being blackish: the Fish that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, presently become blind, and in a short while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City, which are both call'd Roumi, being not above Eleven Leagues from Tauris.

In the middle of the Lake, upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Toko∣riam, there is a little Hill that rises insensibly, the ascent whereof is very smooth, and out of it there rise many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, the wider grow the Streams. And the Earth which they water is of two distinct qualities; the first Earth that is digg'd serves to make Lime: the next to that is a hollow spungy Stone, th•• is good for nothing: but under that again is a white transparent Stone, which you may see through as through Glass, which being smooth and polish'd serves to adorn the Houses. This stone is only a congelation of the Waters of these Streams; for sometimes you shall meet with creeping Animals congeal'd within. The Governour of the Province sent one piece to Sha-Abbas, as a great present, wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long. He that pre∣sented▪ it to the Governour had Twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns; after∣wards I offer'd a thousand for the same Piece. In some parts of the Province of Mazandran, where the Enxin Sea stretches farthest into the Persian Territories, these congeal'd Stones are to be found, but not so frequently as near the lake Roumi; and you shall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones. I brought away a Camels loading of these Stones; and left them at Marseilles; till I could find what use to put them to.

CHAP. V.

A Continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Ardevil and Casbin.

FRom Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey.

The first day you cross over dry Mountains, and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the fairest Inns in Persia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caus'd to be built; it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred persons with their Horses. Over all Persia, especially from Tauris to Ispahan, and from thence to Ormus, you meet every day with Inns at an equal distance.

The next day you descend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choose that will go to Ispahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan, leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads; and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin, two other good Cities, leave the Lake upon the right hand, and coast along by the side of the Mountain. From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues; and having pass'd the Lake, the Country is very good: Which is the Road I intend to describe first.

Ardevil being at so small a distance from Tauris, lyes almost in the same Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous, as well for being the first Market of Silks that come from Guilan, from which it is not far off; as also for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi, the first of that name, King of Persia. The avenues to it are very pleasant, being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are call'd Tchinar, planted in a streight line, at a due distance▪ It is of a moderate bigness, and seated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the Cities, which is call'd Sevalan, is the highest in all Media. The Houses of Ardevil are built of Earth, as are most of the Houses in the City of Persia: but the Streets are very uneven, dirty, and narrow. There is but one which is handsom, at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of the City, which descending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from East to West. It is by Industry brought into many Cuts to water the Gardens, and in many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one; more long than round; where stands a very fine Inn, upon one side, which the Kan caus'd to be built. There are several others in several parts of the City, which have the Prospect over several lovely Gardens, especially that which belongs to the King; to which you go through a long and stately Walk of four rows of Trees, at the end whereof stands a large Gate that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevils be proper to bear Vines, yet there are none thereabouts; nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well stor'd with it; though there be no place in all Persia, where there is so much Caution to be us'd, either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it; both which must be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superstition; the Persians having so peculiar a veneration for that place, that they believe it a sin to suffer Wine to be publickly drank therein.

The people come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Persia to the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi; which together with the vast Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the most considerable Cities of all Persia. There are several other Buildings added to the Mosquee wherein he lyes interr'd; the Entry whereof faces, the Meydan, to which it is joyn'd upon the South-side with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with Chains fasten'd a cross with great Rings; which if any Criminal Offender can but touch, and enter into the first Court, he is safe; for no person can apprehend him. This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth, without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Market-place, several Shops are built for Merchants and Tradesmen.

Out of this Court you pass into another which is less, and pav'd with broad Stones, with a Rivulet running through the middle. The Entry into it is through a Door, fortifi'd with Iron Chains like the former▪ and is made at a corner of the great Court upon the left hand. It brings you presently under a Portico▪ where there are fair Balconies rais'd after the fashion of the Country▪ Those Balconies are full of several People; either Pilgrims, or persons whose Crimes constrain them thither for Sanctuary. In that place you must leave your Stick and your Sword, before you go any farther; and give something besides to a Moullah, who is always attending there with Books.

In that second Court through which the Rivulet glides, on the one side are Baths, on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn; and upon the left hand, at the end of the same Court, there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, Morning and Evening; being just against the King's Kitchin. This Gate is cover'd with Plates of Silver; and in the Kitchin there are about thirty Ovens contriv'd in the Wall, with as many great Caldrons to dress Pilaw and other Food, as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Mosquee. While these Alms are distributing, the Master-Cook, who commands all the rest, sets upon a Chair cover'd with Plates of Silver, and sees that every thing be done in order. He sees to the measuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles, and causes the Victuals to be divided in his own sight: For there is an excellent Oeco∣nomy in the King's House.

At the end of the Portico beyond the first Court there are two Gates, one beyond another, both cover'd with Plates of Silver, between those two Gates on the right hand appears a little Mosquee, where are the Tombs of several Persian Princes of the Blood Royal. You must have a great care not to tread upon the Thresholds of the Gates; for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a severe Punishment. From hence through a little Ile, you come into the Body of the Church, richly hung with Tapestry, and set about with high Desks, where lye a great many Books, wherein the Moullahs, or Doctors of the Law read continually, having Stipends to Officiate in the Mosquee. At the end of the Body of the Mosquee, is a little Octagonal Monument, like the Choir of a Church, in the midst whereof stands the Monument of Sha-Sefi. It is only of Wood, but curiously carv'd and inlaid. It exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary stature▪ and seems like a great Chest, having four Apples of Gold set up at each corner. It is cover'd with a Crimson Satin purfl'd with Gold; and all the other Tombs that are by it, are cover'd with Silks as rich. As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church, there are abun∣dance of Lamps, some of Gold, some of Silver; but the biggest of all is of Silver; gilded and vermilion'd, and neatly engrav'd. There are also six great Branches of a curious sort of Wood, cover'd with Silver, with great Wax Candles in them, which are never lighted but at their great Festivals.

From the Duomo where stands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi, you go under a little Vault, which encloses another Monument of another King of Persia, whose Name I could not learn. It looks like another great Chest, curiously wrought, and cover'd with Satin. The Roof of the Mosquee is adorn'd within with a Painting of Gold and Azure, a la Moresque; on the out-side, with a fair Varnish of several Colours, like the stately Mosquee at Tauris.

In the adjacent Parts round about Ardeüil are several Monuments worth a Man's sight, being very ancient; and some which are ruin'd, shew by what remains the care wich they took to enrich them with curious Workmanship. A quarter of a League from the City stands a Mosquee, in which are the Tombs of the Father and Mother of Sha-Sefi. It is a fair Structure, with Gardens and Courts, in one of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fish.

Ardeüil is not only famous, as I have said already, for the Royal Sepulchers which are in it, and for the Pilgrimages which have been made to it from all parts of Persia; but the numerous Caravans of Silk, which sometimes consist of eight or nine hun∣dred Camels, add very much to its Grandeur. For being near to Guilan and Sha∣maqui, from whence those vast quantities of Silk come; and for that the Road from both those places, to Constantinople and Smyrna, lyes through this City, there is a continual confluence of Merchants, and all sorts of Merchandizes are here to be had as well as at Tauris.

From Ardeüil to Casbin you travel through a good Country; for every three of four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that fall from the Northern Mountains, and water the Earth. The Caravan is usually five days between Ardeüil and Arion, between Arion and Taron two, between Taron and Casbin two more. Half a League on this side Taron you must cross a great River over a stone Bridge, and half a League beyond you come to Kalkal.

Arion is a little City, Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns; and there are but these three places in all Persia where there grow any Olives, or that they make any Oyl. Leaving Kalkal, you travel over a Plain ••or three hours, at the end whereof is a Way which you you cannot get over in less than four hours. The way is so bad that the Horses and Mules can hardly get up; but for the Camels, they must take the lower Road, which is also very tedious, and full of Stones, which the Torrents tumble down, and it is three or four Leagues about. When you are up, the Country is level, and you have not above three Leagues to Casbin.

Casbin lyes in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude, and 36 Degrees and 15 Minutes of Latitude. It is a great City, the Houses whereof are low and ill built; except seven or eight, which are next to the King's Gardens. It has no Walls, and indeed the best half of the City is in Gardens. There are three Inns, with Market-places round about; one of the three being large and commodious. It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans; or if there be any Christians, they are very few.

The Soil about Casbin produces Pistaches. The Tree that bears that is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old. The great quantity of Pista∣ches that are exported out of Persia come from Malavert, a little City twelve Leagues from Ispahan, toward the East. These are the best Pistaches in the World, and the Country being of a large extent, produces them in such abundance, that it furnishes all Persia and the Indies.

Leaving Casbin, you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn; and you travel that day six Leagues through Countries fertil enough, and well water'd.

The next day you travel through a good Country, and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé. This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill, through which there runs a fair River. It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine, where the Travellers take care to replenish their Bottles. But generally they never lye here; being desirous to go a League farther, for a good Inn's sake, which makes it a handsom Stage.

At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Ispahan meet: the first, through Ardeüil and Casbin, I have already describ'd. Hither also come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meshéhead and Candahar, and where they leave Ispahan Road to take the left-hand Way, which carries them Eastward.

CHAP. VI.

The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan. through Zangan, Sultanie, and other places.

VVE must now return again to the Lake six Leagues beyond Tauris, where they that will take the ordinary short way through Zan∣gan and Sultanie, leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin. This Lake is usually full of large red Ducks, which are very good Meat.

From thence, after twelve or thirteen hours travel, in which time you meet with three Inns, you come to Karashima, a large Town in a deep Valley, that seems to be well manur'd. There is in it only a small Inn built of Earth, the Doors whereof ••re so low, that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in.

The next day you come to another large Village call'd Turcoma, where the Soil is fertil, though it be very cold. There are several Caravansera's built like a long

Alley cover'd, which are only of Earth, the Men lying at one end, and the Horses at another.

The next day you travel over an uneven and desert Country, and in eight hours time you come to Miana, a little City situated in a Marsh, where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways. In this City is one of the fairest Inns in all Persia.

Two hours after you leave Miana, you must cross a River, over a fair Bridge which runs to decay; the Arches whereof are hollow within; it is built of Brick and Free-stone, being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris. This Bridge stands almost at the foot of a Mountain call'd Kaplenton. Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd, because the Land is so fat and sloughy, that when it thaws, or that the least Rain falls, it is impossible for the Caravan to pass. Besides, there are a sort of Camels in Persia, that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil, are not able to keep their Legs: nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry, their very Qua••ters will rive from their Shoulders, and their Bellies will burst. So that before the way was pav'd, they were forc'd to spread Carpets in the most slippery ways where those Camels were to pass: which must be still done in some places, where the Pavement is worn away.

At the lower part of the descent toward Ispahan, upon the knap of a Hill which stands by it self, appears an old forsak'n Fortress: it is near the Highway, and a River, which falls into the Caspian Sea, after it has cross'd the Province of Guilan, where it is cut into several Chanels. But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Persia by the help of Water forc'd into Chanels, are of little esteem, and much cheaper than those that grow in the Provinces whose Fertility is not Arti∣ficial. Moreover, that sort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year; and if you keep it longer, it breeds a Vermin that eats it. 'Tis the same thing if the Corn be ground; and more than that, there breeds a Worm in the Flower, that makes it so bitter that 'tis impossible to eat it.

On this side the Mountain Kaplenton appear at a distance two others very high, one toward the North call'd Saveland, another toward the South call'd Sehand: there is a third, which cannot be seen in Ispahan-Road, being two far out of the way, near the City of Hamadan. These three Mountains are full of Springs, from whence most of the Streams do fall that water Persia: And the Persians do say, that formerly there were many more of these Springs, but that about a hundred Years ago several of them have been dry'd up, or otherwise no body can tell what is become of them.

There are several Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King, but are oblig'd to send him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter, for the use of the Mosquee at Ardeüil. They have also one great Priviledge, That if a Man commits a Murther, and flyes to any of these Villages, he cannot be apprehended, nor can the King himself punish him.

Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton, you come to a fair Inn call'd Tshamalava, built some years ago: and for thirteen hours after▪ travelling over a very barren Country, you meet with another Inn, which is call'd Sartcham, standing in a very desert place: which makes the Raders, that lye there to secure the Highways, very insolent, finding themselves so far from any Towns or Villages.

From Sartcham you come to a River, by the Banks whereof you travel a good while, till you come to an Inn which is call'd Digbé, near a large Village. The Structure is very handsom, the lower part being of Free-stone undulated with red and white, and very hard.

The next day you travel a very uneven Country, till you fall into a deep Valley, at the end whereof you meet with Zangan, a great Town and ill built. How∣ever, it has a very fair Inn, which when I went last to Ispahan was so full, that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain, but for the Courtesie of two Ar∣menians. From Zangan you go to an Inn, where you must pay the Duties due to the Kan of Sultanie.

Sultanie is a very large City, which you leave half a Mile from the Road, near to a Mountain. Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mosquees, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain. Many Christian Churches also were con∣verted

into Mosquees; and if you will believe the Armenians, they will tell you, that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chapels.

Three Leagues from Sultanie stands an Inn, and a League farther a great Town call'd Ija, where there is another very commodious Inn, and most excellent Wine.

From thence you go to Habar, an ancient City and of a large extent, but very much ruin'd, inhabited by Armenians for the most part: Here, for the good Wines sake the Travellers stay to recruit their Bottles.

From Habar, after seven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin. From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days. It stands in a fertil Plain, where there are several other Villages. It is not above three Leagues broad, being enclos'd on each side, to the East and West, with a row of high Mountains.

Having pass'd this Plain, you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited, which lasts all the day, till you come to Saxava. You pass by the Ruines of a Village, where there are but two Houses standing, with the Tower of a Mosquee, which is very high and slender. Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn, built some few years since; and near to that a Castle call'd Khiara, upon the peek of a Hill, but very ill built.

Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts. The Inns that are there being built of Earth, and being but little, are very handsom and covenient, their number supplying the defect of their smalness.

From Sexava, after seven hours travel, you come to a great Inn, call'd Idgloup, which was formerly a nobler place than now it is, standing alone in a Field. Three Leagues from thence you meet with another spacious Inn, call'd Cochkeria; and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé, where the two Roads meet which I spake of in the foregoing Chapter.

From Denghé to Kom are three days journey, over a barren, dry, and desert Country, where there is no Water but Cistern-water, except in some very few places, where it is very good. Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn; and three Leagues farther stands another, about a Mile from a Village to the South, where there grows excellent good Wine, white and red. From this last Inn to Sava is not above three hours travel with the Caravan.

Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain, where there are several Villages. The greatest Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins, the curl whereof is very neat, of which they make Furrs. Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manur'd, and after you have forded a River half a League from the City, after two hours travel you come to one of the fairest Inns in all Persia, which was finish'd when I went last to Ispahan. From thence to Kom it is about seven or eight hoúrs journey, through a dry and sandy Road: but half a League on this side Kom the Land is very good and fruitful.

Kom is one of the great Cities of Persia, in a fat Country abounding in Rice. There grow also excellent Fruits, particularly large and excellent Granates. The Walls are only of earth, with little Towers close one to another; and the Houses being only of Earth, are never the hand somer withinside. At the entry into the Town, you must cross a River, over a stone Bridge, and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key, you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient.

That which is most remarkable in Kom is a large Mosquee, no less in veneration a∣mong the Persians, than the Mosquee of Ardeüil. There it is that you may see the Se∣pulchers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second; as also the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima, the Daughter of Iman-Hocen, who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet. The great Gate of the Mosquee answers to a Piazza more long than broad, where stands an Inn and certain Shops, which without-side are somewhat beautiful. One of the sides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall, over which appears the Shore, and a River which you cross at the end of the Piazza. Over the great Portal of the Mosquee stands an Inscription, in Letters of Gold, in the praise of Sha-Abas the Second. The first place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth, which may be term'd a Garden, in regard that on each side of the Alley in the middle, which is pav'd, there are several square Beds of Flowers, yellow Jasmin, and other Plants; which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each side. It is not an easie thing for the Christians to

get in to this Court, especially such whose Habits and Aspect they do not like: But as I cloth'd and carry'd my self, I never was deny'd entrance into any place ei∣ther in Persia or India.

In this first Court on the left hand as you enter, are little Chambers, where they that receive the Alms, which by the Foundation of the Mosquee are to be distri∣buted every day, come and eat their proportion, and then go their ways. Those Chambers serve as an Asylum to those that cannot pay their Debts, as at the Mosquee of Ardeüil. Neither are these Priviledg'd places like ours, where they that retire must live at their own Charge: For in Persia they are sed at the expence of the Mosquee; and being in that manner freed from Care, their Friends more easily bring their Creditors to Composition.

Out of the first Court you pass into a second, which is larger, and all pav'd; and from that into a third, which is square, and rais'd like a Terrass. You enter into it through a large Gate, at the end of an open Passage, where stand the Lodgings of the Moullah's.

Out of that Court by an ascent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps, you enter into a fair Court, which is also rais'd like a Terrass; in the midst whereof is a fair Fountain. It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it, and is empty'd by others that carry the Water into several parts of the whole Enclosure. There are some Buildings in this Court, but one of the sides of it is taken up with the Front of the Mosquee, which is no displeasing Structure. There are three large Gates belong to it, very well expanded, according to the mode of the Country; with a Brick-wall before, about the height of a Man, with Holes in it for Light, made like a Lozange. The Threshold of the middle Gate is Cover'd with a plate of Silver; and between these three Gates and that of the Duomo, are several Doctors that hold Books in their hands, and read perpetually.

This Mosquee is Octagonal, and at every angle is a small wooden Door of Walnut∣tree, varnish'd with grey and yellow. The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Mosquee, there being only room for one Man to pass between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompass'd with a large Silver Grate, sixteen Foot square; the Bars whereof are round, and knob'd in those places where they cross each other; it is lighted by several Lamps of Gold and Silver: which altogether is very pleasing to the Eye. The inside of the Mosquee, to the elevation of the Angles that support the Duomo, is compos'd of square Tiles varnish'd over with divers Colours; and the Cupola of the Duomo, as also the Vault of the Portico of the Mosquee, is a Moresco piece of Painting in Or and Azure. Upon each side of the Mosquee, and near the side where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima stands, appears a great Hall, where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, which consist of Pilaw and other diet, very well drest. From this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Ascent, distant five and twenty or thirty Paces; and at the top of this Ascent is a Door, over which there is an In∣scription in Honour of Sha-Abas the Second. The Door being open'd, shews you the place where the Body of that King reposes: and through another Door with a Grate in it, you may discover, under a small Duomo, the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his Father; which is cover'd with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold. They were conti∣nually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abas, which they said, they would make very famous.

I had not been two hours in Kom, but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate, all in extraordinary hast. Asking what the matter was, they answer'd me, that it had been a day long design'd for the two Prophets to fight. Thereupon I went to the Piazza, which was so crowded, that I had much ado to get to see. In the first place a sufficient number of Tumblers and Puppet players, divided into two Bands, kept the middle of the Piazza, and made a sufficient Ring for the Combat. Each Band held a Bull by the Horns, one of which they call'd Mahomet, and the other Haly: and whether it where by accident, or by the cunning of the Bull-Masters, after an obstinate Combat, wherein the Beasts foam'd again with heat and rage; Mahomet at length quit the Field, and yielded Haly the Victory. Then all the People shouted for joy, and all the Piazza was fill'd with the noise of Flutes and Hautboys; and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly, cry'd out, Behold the Works of God, that Haly has made! At length they bring the Bull Haly under a Gate, with his Head turn'd toward the People; where after they

have rub'd him to refresh him, after a Combat so courageously maintain'd, every one sends him Presents, which are all the Tumblers profit. The Kan or Governour of Kom, who was present with a hundred Horses richly trap'd to behold the Sight, sent the Bull a Present of 50 Tomans, or 750 Crowns. They who accompany'd him, and the chief Inhabitants of Kom, gave him some a Garment, others a Girdle. Neither did the meanest of the People spare to send or carry him Fruits, or other things, according to their abilities.

The Kan was a Lord who was very civil, and there was no Stranger that did not commend his behaviour, in regard he was so obliging.

So soon as I came to the place, whether it was that he perceiv'd me with a Dutch∣man that I had brought along from Constantinople, or whether any one had inform'd him that there were Strangers near him, he sent for us, and after he had ask'd us some Questions concerning the occasion of our Travelling, he sent for a Seat and caus'd us to sit down. Then he ask'd us whence we came, and what we did at Ispahan; to which when we had answer'd him, that we went to wait upon the King, he ap∣proved our Intention, complaining that we had not given him advice of our Arrival. In the Evening he sent us several Delicacies, among the rest, six fair Melons, and four Bottles of excellent Wine.

He appear'd to me so brave and generous a Person, that I was very much trou∣bled afterwards for his being in dis▪favour with the King, and his death, which ensu'd. For this Kan finding the Walls of the City, which were only of Earth, and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair, without writing to the King, of his own head, laid a slight Imposition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought into the City. Now there are in all the Cities of Persia, persons who are hir'd to take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth, and to take care that no more than such a Toll be laid upon any thing; which they tax among themselves, and when they had set the Rate, they cause it to be cry'd at the beginning of every Week. Sha-Sefi then reign'd, it being the year 1632. The King being inform'd by these people of the Impost which the Kan had set upon Fruit without his knowledge, was so enrag'd against him, that he caus'd him to be brought in Chains to Ispahan, where he us'd him with a strange severity. For at that time the Son of the Kan stood at the King's Elbow, it being his Office to give him his Pipe and his Tobacco, which is a very honourable Employment in Persia. When the Kan came, the King caus'd him to be carry'd to the Gate of the Palace, in the presence of all the People, and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair of his Father's Mustaches by the roots from his Skin. After that he commanded him to cut off his Nose and his Ears; after that to put out his Eyes, and lastly to cut off his Head. When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleasure, he commanded him to go and take possession of his Fathers Government, and allowing him an experienc'd Old Man for his Lieutenant, he sent him to Kom with these words; If thou govern'st no better than this dead Dog has done, I will put thee to a more cruel Death than this.

Leaving Kom, for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country, after which you come to a fair Village with five or six Inns in it. Beyond that is nothing but Sand, till you come to a place call'd Abschirim, or Fresh-water, where there are three Inns at a Distance from any Villages. From Abschirim to Cachan is six hours journey through a Corn Country, and stor'd with great Villages.

Cachan is a large City, well peopl'd, and furnish'd with all things necessary for humane subsistance: There is an old Wall about it which is faln down in many places, so that there is no need of seeking for Gates to get into the City. On that side which looks toward Ispahan the Soil is good, and produces great store of Fruit and Wine, which the Jews take care to make. It is reckon'd that there are in Cachan a thousand Families of Jews; in Ispahan about six hundred; but in Kom there are not above nine or ten. Not but that there are many Jews in Persia, but those that live in Ispahan, Cachan and Kom, boast themseves particularly of the Tribe of Judah.

There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Chachan that are very good Work∣men, which make all the best purfl'd Sattins mix'd with Gold and Silver, that come out of Persia. There they also coyn Money, and make Copper-vessels, which they vend in great quantities at a good distance off. The Market-houses are very fair

ones, and well vaulted, the Inns large and convenient: but there was one among the rest which was very magnificent, near the King's Gardens, at the entry of the City. As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha-Abbas, the first of that Name, who was at a vast charge. The Inn is above a hun••••ed Paces square, built of Brick two Stories high, containing twenty-six vaulted Chambers of a reasonable bigness. It was a Structure too fair to be so little regarded, as now it is, being much faln to deca••. In the middle of the Court was a Fountain to receive Water, which is spoil'd. The Persians and Turks are of that bad humor, rather to build new Houses than to repair old Buildings. For which reason they have since built at Cachin four or five Inns, as fair and commodious as that of Sha-Abas. This Custom is grown to that height, that the Children are so far from taking care to repair the old Houses where their Parents liv'd, that they will not so much as live in them after their decease, covetous of the honour of building Houses for themselves.

Before we le••ve Cachan you must take notice, that as you are to travel from that City to Guilan, you cannot avoid travelling thorough Plains for twelve hours together, which are all pure Salt; and there is nothing to be met with by the way, but one Cistern; nor can the Water which is in it be otherwise than very bad.

Leaving Cachan, you cross a Plain of three Leagues, after which you enter in among the Mountains, where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick. From thence you descend a pleasant Vale, where you travel a long time by the side of a Ri∣ver, over a ver•• narrow way. At the end of the Valley you meet a great Wall, which crosses it, and joyns the two Mountains together. This Wall is above a hundred Paces long, above thirty Foot thick, and fifty high. It was the Work of the Great Sha-Abas, whose design it was to stop the Waters that fall from the Mountain, and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place, to serve his occasions. At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluce, which being let down keeps in the Water; but is pull'd up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring Lands to the Plain of Cachan. From this Receptacle to Coro•• is about two hours travel.

Corou is a very large Village, and well peopl'd, in a Soil environ'd with high Mountains, and planted with great store of Walnut-trees. The Houses consist but of one low Story, being built of Flint-stone; but the Inn therein is very fair and commodious. This Village consists but of one Street, but it is almost half a League long, and very troublesom in the Winter, by reason of a great River that runs through it▪ and the great quantity of Stones that lye in the way. All about this Village, as in several other places of Persia, there are a great number of Sha∣••ales; which are a kind of Foxes, that in the night time make an ugly noise; for if but one cry, all the rest will make answer, and set up a howling.

From Corou you must travel three Leagues between Mountains, after which you have but twelve Leagues to Ispahan. It is a continued Plain that extends it self beyond the City, and in many places the Soil is very good. At every three Leagues end you meet with Inns. The first is call'd Achaha-Acacamala; the second, which is the half-way between Corou and Ispahan, is call'd Michiacour. This place consists not only of one Inn, for there are many others, so that it resembles a large Vil∣lage. From Michiacour you come to Aganura, another Inn, but ill built; and from Agan••ra, after you have travel'd three Leagues through a fat and fertil Country, you come to Ispahan.

CHAP. VII.

Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan, through Natolia.

SMyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe, or out of Europe into Asia. Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times most regularly appointed, the ••airest Caravans set out.

This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is seven Leagues in length, upon the right side of the Isthmus which begins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene, right against the Island of Schio. It lyes in that part of the Lesser Asia, which the Greeks possess'd, under the Name of Iconium; at a distance almost equal, between Ephesus and Sardis; and was one of the seven Churches mention▪d in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West. But it is neither so great, nor so beautiful as formerly it was, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City stood, are altogether uninhabited. There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle, and above that the Ruines of an Amphi∣theater, where they say St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Am∣phitheater was not in the form of those other, which are usually round; for it con∣tain'd but half a Circle, being left open to the Sea-side. The Turks have almost quite destroy'd it: making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the passage is very narrow; which the Ships are forc'd to salute as they inter in, and to speak with when they sail ou••▪ Moreover, that they might not be put to send for Stones a-far-off, they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments, as also of those of the Jews, which are near the Shor••▪ But they took very few, whether out of kindness to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheater. This Castle had not been long built, but upon an occasion very remarkable. In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians, the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the G••and Signor resolv'd to re-fit another to Sea, and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire▪ where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride, to sollicit them to serve him for his Pay. More particularly ••e aim'd at those Vessels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Proposition of fighting against the Ven••tians, believing that he would put some force upon them, suddenly▪ hois'd Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Castle then built to command them. The Grand Visier nettl'd at the refusal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Master, and to see that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or▪ molestation, bethought himself (to the end he might keep them for the future und•••• subjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch; where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which no Vessel can escape. Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lye out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort.

Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church, two sides whereof seem to have been distinguish'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet standing: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Poly∣carp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus.

Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I staid there, there happen'd one, which did not last long, but was very terrible. About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of the

City that looks toward the Winter-West, near to the Sea, appear the Ruines of a Mole, and certain ancient Magazines.

The English Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna, and have found great store of ••air Statues, which they transported into their own Country. There are still found some or other every day; but when the Turks find any, they disfigure them presently. It may be conjectur'd, that there was one of a prodigious bigness, by a great Toe broken off of some one, and for which I paid sufficiently, out of the desire I had to buy it. I sent it to Paris to a Person of Quality, who look'd upon it as a great Curiosity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone, and well shap'd, and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judg'd to be less than the Colossus of Rhodes.

Upon that side of the City where the Mole was, stands an old Castle of no defence, at the foot whereof the Sea makes a small Creek, where sometimes the Gallies of the Grand Signor lye.

The City is well peopl'd containing no less than fourscore and ten thousand Souls. There are reckon'd no less than 60000 Turks, 15000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, and about six or seven thousand Jews. As for the European Christians that Trade there, their number is very small. Every one of these Nations has the exercise of their Religion free to themselves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mosquees, the Jews seven Synagogues, the Armenians but one Church, the Greeks two, and the Latines three. There are also French Jesuits, and Italian Observantins, or a sort of Grey Franciscans. The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenians, and Jews live upon the Hill; but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Christians, English, French, Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have also in the same Quar∣ter an old Church, and some few small Houses, where Sea-men make merry.

All these different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks. Every Nation has its Consul: and the French Consul has two Vice-Consuls under him; the one at Scalanova, the other at Chio.

Scalanova, or the New Port, is two Leagues beyond Ephesus, and being a good Haven, the Vessels were wont to unlade there; but the Turks would not permit it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother, the Vice-Consul agreed with the Governour of Scalanova, who permitted the Transpor∣tation of Goods to Smyrna, which is not above three little days journey with the ••aravan: A thing that spoil'd the Trade of the City, and injur'd the Officers of the Custom-House. Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova: so that now no more Vessels go thither, unless it be to take in fresh Victuals.

Chio is one of the greatest Islands in the Archipelago, of which in another place: but the Vice-Consul that lives there has no more business there than the other at Scalanova; for the Vessels that touch there, neither unlade no•• export any Goods from thence.

The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street, one side whereof lyes upon the Sea; and as well for the Prospect, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods, the Houses upon the Sea are much dearer than those that lye upon the Hill.

The Soil about Smyrna is fertil, and abounds in all things necessary for humane support; but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits also half a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great store of good Fish; Fowl is very cheap; and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt▪Pits, where generally abundance of People walk in the Summer-time to take the fresh Air: and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkie, there is no necessity of taking a Janisary along, when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling, it is but ••aking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the Mountains, where there is so much Game that he can never return empty. For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna, and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap.

But if Smyrna have these great advantages, it has also its inconveniences: the Heats are very excessive in Summer, and indeed they would be insupportable, were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea: these Breezes rise about ten in the Morning, and continue till the Evening; but if they ••ail, 'tis very bad for the

Inhabitants. Besides, there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague, which however is not so violent as in Christendom. The Turks neither fear it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predestination. Yet I believe, if the Inha∣bitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are. It is most rife in May, June, and July; but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be fear'd, more People dying of them than of the Pestilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons. There is no Basha in that City; it being govern'd only by a Cady, who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places: For should he abuse his Office, Constantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for some good Present may be easily perswaded to depose the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to displace him, and to put another in his room.

The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Mer∣chants, who would otherwise be losers, would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers: For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Com∣modities, valuing that at a thousand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hun∣dred, being absolute Masters of the Rate. In my last Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-shoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize: for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex, that they will not so much as offer to search them. If a man be tak'n in stealing Customs, there is no other punishment than to pay double.

The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Persia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City call'd Angouri, fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twisted; Skins and Cordovans of several colours; Calicuts, white and blew; great quantities of Wool for Mattresses, Tap'stries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Va∣lanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four last Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months.

Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horse-back-I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janisaries along with us, and three Horses to carry our Provision.

We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer, and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we rode through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Village, where we sup'd.

After we had staid there three hours, we took Horse and travel'd till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruines of some Aque∣duct. From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant, through little Thickets watred with Rivulets.

A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church, built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephesus. This Mosquee stands enclos'd with Walls, and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Passage. From thence you enter into a large Cloyster, the Arches whereof are sustain'd with Marble Pillars of several colours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the sides, that consists of great Squares of Stone. The Mosquee takes up the fourth side upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Mosquee it self is a wide Arch, supported by five Columns, all of most exquisite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a most rare piece, being of Porphyry, aed the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admir'd.

Ephesus does not look like a City, being so absolutely ruin'd, that there is not a House standing. It was built upon the descent of a Hill, in a situation not much

unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a thousand Maeander••▪ in the Meadows. The City seems to have been very large, for you may discern upon the top of the Gates the compass of the Walls, with several square Towers, some of which are still standing: and there is one very remarkable, having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pave∣ment whereof are Marble.

The famous Temple of Diana stood at the bottom of the Hill, near one of the Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at present but the great Portal, which is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground stand to this day, and are very large, but all full of nastiness. We went in with Lanthorns; and though you must creep to get in, by reason that the Wind has almost stopt up the Hole, by gathering the Dust about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright; for the Arches are high and fair, and little the worse. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon the Ground, and near to that a Fountain, ten Foot in Diameter, and two deep. The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptiz'd the Christians. For my part, as I have seen in the Indies several Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephesus could be; I believe it rather to have been a Basin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which there are several such that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Arme∣nians, but above all the Franks, when they go to Ephesus always endeavour to break off some piece of that Basin, to carry it away with 'em as a Relick: but the Stone is so hard, that they can break off but very little at a time.

Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there lyes a great Stone seven or eight Foot square, with an emboss'd Figure of Q. Curtius that Famous Roman, who threw himself, Horse and A••••ms into the gaping Earth, for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephesus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the same Hill where the City was built.

From Ephesus we went to Scalanova, which is not above two Leagues off. By that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Ephesus falls into the Sea, in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fishing for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fish they make Caveare, and drive a great Trade in it in those Parts: then they take the most delicate and smallest Entrails of that Fish, which they fill with the same Spawn, of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding, as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, and cut it afterwards in slices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fish the Grecks ge∣nerally feed during their Lent, which is very austere.

Scalanova is a Port of which I have already spoken, and thither we came by seven a Clock in the Evening; where the Governour of the Place, more civil than usually the Turks are accustom'd to be, made us very welcom.

In the Evening one of our Janisaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants, who thereupon had beaten him; and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Ma∣ster, who not giving him that satisfaction which he desir'd, thereupon the Turk study'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reason, upon some pre∣tence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his design. We staid till the Morning, and then departed early from Scalanova, and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Mosquee near Ephesus, where we had been the day before: And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in, i'the shade; thereupon we sent for our Provisions, with a Boracho of Wine, and ano∣ther of Water, and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosquee, not dreaming any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mosquee. I knowing the custom of the Country better than they, told them, that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us, and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately; for it was then Turks Ramezan, or Lent; during which time Wine is strictly forbidden. These two ill-contriv'd and ill clad Fellows were the Janisaries of the place, whom the Cadi had▪sent, upon the information of our Janisary (who knowing we had eaten in the same place before, as indeed we had done, made no question but we would do so again) thinking to surprize us

as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they esteem Sacred, and by conse∣quence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge. Christian Dogs, cry'd they, when they came near us, to eat and drink in a Mosquee, and profane a holy place as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal! No, cry'd I, answering for the rest, we drink no Wine, we drink nothing but Water, and you may tast it, said I to him that was the most busie; with that I caus'd a Glass to be pour'd out and giv'n him; and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who understanding it was a promise of gratuity, turn'd about to his Comrades, and cry'd, 'Tis very true, they drink no Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady, there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to answer for all the rest. The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janisary at first; but he was not only surpriz'd, but very much troubl'd, when they all unanimously affirm'd that we drank no Wine, believing they were confederates with us. But I had cunningly slipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye, who over-joy'd at so plentiful a gratuity, had over-perswaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us. The Cady, though he did not like their Testimony, yet call'd for Coffee for us, according to the custom of the Country, and sent us to his Lieutenant; who having been often greas'd in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants, receiv'd us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place, and was needy; however a small matter would content him. There∣upon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats, who most certainly went snips with the Cady, and so return'd us to our Company, who were much afraid we would not have come off so.

We were resolv'd to return to Smyrna not the same way we came, and so we took another Road, which was a very pleasant way, partly over firm Sands, and partly thorough Meadows, where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Pav'd. Then we cross a rugged high Mountain, and lay in a Mahumetan Barn.

The next day we return'd to Smyrna, having finish'd our small Journey to Ephesus in five days. When we told the Consuls how the Janizary had betray'd us, they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady, who, for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service, which is an advantageous Employment. For besides that the Consul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are well plac'd; for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other; especially at good times, as New-years-day and other Festivals. Nor could the Janizary have been more severely punish'd; for the Turks love Money above all things in the World.

But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City, near a Town call'd Pongarbachi. The day of their setting out being fix'd, every one provides himself for his Journey, and meets the Evening before at the place appointed, to be ready at the hour.

From Smyrna to Tocat, is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan, and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi.

The first day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing, leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road; and we lodg'd in a Park, near the River Pactolus; which is a small River, the Sand whereof shines, and is of several colours. Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tmolus, and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis, mixes with the River Hermus, that throws it self into the Archipelago through the Gulph of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City, toward the North.

The next day in six hours we came to Durgout, a little City in a Plain. All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor, and pass that way, once a Year pay Carrage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns: but the Franks are exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkie. There resides a Bashae in this City; and we were constrain'd to stop there a whole day, because the Caravan that comes from Persia arriv'd at that time, so that they were fore'd to change their Camels.

The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat, we came to lodge near a paltry Village.

The fourth day we travel'd six hours, and stop'd near to a small River. In the Morning we pass'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, and Seat of King Croesus. There were still to be seen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble. This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temur-leng, who besieg'd it; so soon as he had taken it, in revenge he utterly destroy'd it. There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name, where stood the City, which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation. The fifth day we rode for seven hours through a Country, but ill manur'd, and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a River.

The sixth day we pass'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, call'd at present Allachars, which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia. There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls, and the City is very large, but ill peopl'd. It is situated upon four little Hills, at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity, there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater, with certain Sepulchers▪ from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there, and transported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies of Saints. It is now all destroy'd, but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode. It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia, and in regard it was alway very subject to Earthquakes, the most part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country. The last time I travel'd that way, in the year 1664, the seventeenth of June, the Turks were feasting and rejoycing upon the News, as they said, which they had receiv'd, of the defeat of the Christians in Candy. But the News was false, and only con∣triv'd to encourage the People; for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in those Parts. We lodg'd that day, after seven hours travel, upon the Bank of a small River, a League and a half from Philadelphia.

The seventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain, where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls, and Valanede, which is the shell or rind of an Acorn, that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather. We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogase, or, The Mountain of Robbers.

The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the same Mountain, which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had. We travel'd but six hours, and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarroucabaqui.

The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands, where there is not one Village to be seen, and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-sou, in the Plain of Inahi.

The tenth day, after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Coun∣try, we stopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-sou, the Water whereof is not good. In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder, and the Rain that fell was as cold as if it had been in the depth of Winter. We were wet to the Skins, and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoyl'd.

The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleasant Country, between Vales adorn'd with a most delightful Verdure; and we were in view as we pass'd along of certain hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodg'd upon the Banks of a small River, by the side whereof we had travel'd for some hours.

The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for six hours between the same Vallies, and lodg'd by a River.

The thirteenth day, we travel'd eight hours▪ and stop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Doügasse.

The fourteenth, after a Journey of seven hours we pass'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar, that is, The Black City of Aphiom or Opium; because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they sow great store of Pop∣pies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom, as the Turks call it.

Aphiom-Carassar, is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof I could never learn, for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But ac∣cording to all probability and the situation of the place, it ought to be the ancient Hi••rapolis situated upon the Maander, a famous River of the Lesser Asia, that

winds and turns the most of any River in the World. And indeed we are the more to seek, in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure, and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass; or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands. There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Free-stone upon the Point of a high Rock, separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Christians, Subjects to the King of Persia, passing thorough Aphiom Carassar must there pay Carrage, from which they are not exempted, though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere. The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar, as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd, as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish, and very cheap, and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander, which is to be cross'd over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village. In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carps; and the Fisher∣men will be sure to attend upon the Caravan. I have seen some Carps there above three Foot long.

The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it self, some for Tocat, some for the Road to Aleppo; the one part taking the right-hand. Road toward the Winter-East, for Syria; the other the left-hand. Road North-East, for Armenia.

After we were parted, we travel'd two or three hours in sight of one another. They that go to Aleppo, fall into Tarsus, where St. Paul was born, and from Tarsus to Alexandretta. But we continu'd our Road to Tocat, and after we had cross'd a great Plain, having travel'd six hours, we lodg'd in a Mershy place near a small Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others, which manifests the Charity of the Turks. For in most of the high Roads, that are far from Rivers, they have set up Cisterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neigh∣bouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers, who would else be very much distress'd.

The sixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country, but ill ma∣nur'd; where we saw a little City call'd Boulavandi. There are some Mosquee's, which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greeks Churches, from which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture, to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all, which you meet with very often upon the high Roads; the number is the greater, because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave. There is also in this City an Inn, cover'd with Lead, which is all the Beauty of it; nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather. We lodg'd a League and a half from the City, and staid there all the next day.

The seventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country, and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses, though there be excellent Pasturage about it. There is no Water, but what is drawn out of three deep Wells; for which reason the place is call'd Euche derin-gi••.

The eighteenth we travel'd not above five hours through desert Countries, and took up our Stage in a king of a Bog, near a pitiful Village.

The nineteenth, after we had travell'd eight hours through spacious desert Plains, we pass'd through a large Village, the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their Cattel into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time, according to custom. There is an indifferent handsom Mosquee of Free-stone; and indeed the Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tshaciclou, has been much bigger than now it is, as may appear by the Ruines. In two hours after we came to lodge beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet.

The twentieth we cross'd over desert Plains, but which seem'd to have been for∣merly well manur'd; and after ten hours travel, we stop'd in a Bottom near a bad Water.

The twenty-first, for ten hours the Country was all barren and desert, and we came to lodge at the end of a long Plain, near two Wells, the Water whereof was good for nothing.

The twenty-second we travel'd through the fore-mention'd Plain, and met with little Valleys where there was very good Pasturage. The Caravan stop'd near to a pitiful Village, and a nasty Well.

The twenty-third we travel'd not above five hours; because it was the time of the Turks Beiram, or Easter, which our Caravan, consisting of Turks, would needs solemnize. That day we travel'd through an indifferent good Country, and well till'd, where we discover'd several fair Villages; and we lodg'd upon a rising Ground, from whence we had a very fair and far distant Prospect.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd six hours, and came to lodge in a Meadow where the Water was bad. Near to that place, we discover'd a Plain that extends it self eight or ten Leagues in length, though it be not above one or two in bredth: it seem'd like a Lake; and indeed it is only a salt Water congeal'd, and thickn'd into Salt, which you can hardly dissolve but in fair Water. This Lake furnishes almost all Nato•••••• with Salt; where you may buy a Waggon load drawn by two Bufalo's for 45 Sous. It is call'd Douslag, or The Place for Salt; and the Basha of Couchahar, about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amurath caus'd a D•••••• to be ••ut quite thorough it when his Army march'd to the Siege of Bagdat, which he took from the Persian.

The twenty-fifth we travel'd nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, the Country being all desert. We lodg'd upon a rising▪ Ground, near a good Foun∣tain call'd Cara-dache-cesmé, or, The Fountain of the Black Stone.

The twenty-sixth we pass'd through a great Village call'd Tshekenagar, in a pleasant situation, but very ill built; and after we had travel'd eight hours, we came to lodge in a delightful Meadow, near another Village call'd Romcouché.

The twenty-seventh we travel'd nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and having pass'd a great Town call'd Beserguenlou, we lodg'd in a Meadow.

The twenty eighth we cross'd a great River call'd Jechil••irma, over a long well built stone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge call'd Kessré-kupri stands a great Village, wherein the greatest part of the Houses are built under Ground, like Foxes Holes. We put on farther, and after seven hours travel, we lodg'd below another great Village call'd Mouchiour, where there are abundance of Greeks, which they constrain ever and anon to turn Turks, The Country being inhabited by Christians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines, there is Wine good store, and very good, but it has the scent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well situated but ill built, most of the Houses being under Ground, in so much that one of the Company riding carelesly, had like to have faln into a House.

The twenty-ninth we rode for seven hours through a pleasant Country, where we saw several Villages; near to one of which the Caravan lodg'd in a Meadow, close by a Fountain.

The thirtieth we rode through a flat Country, well manur'd, and stop'd near a River wherein there was but very little Water: it is call'd Cara-sou, or, The Black River. For two or three days together, at every two Leagues distance we observ'd little Hillocks of Earth artificially rear'd, which they told us were rais'd during the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers.

The thirty-first we travel'd a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and after we had travel'd nine hours, we lodg'd in a Meadow, near a River, which we cross'd next Morning before day, over a stone Bridge.

The thirty-second, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lodg'd by a River, where we saw a great number of Turcomans: They are a People that live in Tents like the Arabians, and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having their luggage in Waggons drawn by Bufalo's.

The thirty-third we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not seen in 18 days before, which had constrain'd us to carry▪ Wood upon our Camels to dress our Provision: We were very sparing of it, and sometimes made use of dry'd Cows dung or Camels dung, when we came near the Waters where they were wont to drink. We travel'd eight hours that day, and lodg'd in a Meadow where the Grass was very high, yet where there had been Houses formerly standing.

The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River call'd Jangou, from the Name of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we saw a ruin'd Bridge, which had been built over it.

The thirty-fifth we travel'd eight hours through a fair Valley well manur'd, and upon the left hand we left a Castle rais'd upon a Rock. The Caravan lay that night upon a rising Ground near a Village.

The thirty-sixth we travel'd through the same Valley for eight or nine hours longer; in this Valley were several pleasant Villages, but we lay by a small Ri∣ver.

The thirty-seventh we travell'd six hours among the Mountains, where there are some very narrow Passages, but store of Water; and we lay in a Vale abounding in Pasturage.

The thirty-eighth we rode for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in craggy way, at the foot whereof we met with a Village call'd Taquibac; from whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And these are all the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Territories of Turkie.

CHAP. VIII.

How the Author was robb'd near Tocat, and of a certain sort of rare and fine Wool which he first brought into France.

TAquibac is the place where the Persian Caravan uses to meet, when it departs from Tocat to Smyrna, and this is the only place in all the Road where a Traveller ought to stand upon his guard; by reason of Thieves who haunt these Quarters, and are great Masters in their Trade. Once as I came out of Persia they would needs give me a tast of their Art, notwithstanding all the care I took. There were three or four of us that would needs ride before with our Servants to Taquibac, in expectation of the Caravan which was to come the next day; where we set up our Tents upon the Bank of a small River. I had then a good many Bales of Wool, with which I made as it were a double Wall about my Tent: so that there was but one passage between the Bales, for one Man. In four of these Bales I had a quantity of Musk in lead'n Boxes, to the value of ten or twelve thousand Crowns: which Bales I put within-side, so that they touch'd the Tent and my Beds-head. Next Night, it being very dark, the Thieves came, and finding the outward Bales smell so strong of Musk, they thought one of those Bales would be a considerable Booty. The Bales were all ty'd together with a Cord that kept them fast; nor was it easie to undo them, without a noise. They wak'd me with their bustle at first, and I sent out my Servants to see if they could catch them; but they will lye so close upon their Bellies, that in such a dark Night as that was 'tis impossible to discover them. Thereupon my Servants went to sleep again, and the Thieves to their Work; and having with a great deal of ingenuity cut the Cord, they carried away the two Bales. In the Morning four or five of us with a Camel-driver for our Guide pursu'd them, and in half an hour we met with the marks of the Robbery; for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but Wool, which they thought to be of no great value, scatter'd it in the High-way for two or three Leagues together: so that I caus'd it to be pickt up again, and lost not above fifteen or twenty Pound. I speak this to caution the Marchants that carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities, to beware of these Thieves; for they will come creeping upon their Bellies, and then cutting the Bales with great Razors, will presently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods.

'Tis true, the Wool was of no great value for their use; but it was a sort of rare and very fine Wool, which I carry'd out of Persia to Paris, where such fine Wool was never seen. As to the place where it is to be had, I met with one of the Gaures, or Persians that adore the Fire, who when I was at Ispahan in the year 1647 shew'd me a Sample of it, and inform'd me that the greatest part of this Wool comes from the Province of Kerman, which is the ancient Caramania; and that the best Wool is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City, that bears the name of the Province: That the Sheep in those Parts have this particular property, that when they have fed upon new Grass from January till May, the Fleece falls off of it self, and leaves the Sheep naked, and their Skins smooth, like a Pig's that is scalded off; so that there is no need of shearing them, as with us: after they have

gather'd it, they beat it, and the course Wool breaking, the fine only remains. That if you transport it, before you make it into Bales, you must throw Salt-water upon it, which keeps the Worms out of it, and preserves it from rotting. Now you must take notice that they never dye this Wool, it being naturally of a clear Brown, or a dark Ash-colour; and that there is very little of it White, which is also much dearer than the other, as well for that it is scarce, as because that the Mufti's, the Moullah's and other persons belonging to the Law never wear any Girdles or Vails (wherewith they cover their Heads when they pray) but White: for at other times they wear them about their Necks, as the Women do their Scarfs.

Into this Province of Kerman almost all the Gaures are retir'd, and they are they that only Trade in this Wool, and have the whole Manufacture of it. They make those Girdles of it which they use in Persia; and some Pieces of Serge, which are al∣most as fine and transparent, as if they were of Silk. I brought over two Pieces into France, and presented one to the late Queen Mother, the other to the Prin∣cess of Orleance.

I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1654, returning out of the Indies by Sea from Sura•• to Ormus. To which purpose, I departed from Ormus, and took Guides along with me to shew me the way to Kerman, whither I could not get on Horseback in less than twenty-seven days. I dare say that Alexander the Great did not march this way into the Indies: for in the whole extent of the Country there is no Water to be met with but in some certain places, and in the hollow of some Rocks, where there is not enough neither to water eight or ten Horses. Besides, in some places a man is constrain'd, by reason of the Mountains, to fetch a great compass about; for a Foot-man that makes his way through those Rocks, shall go farther in half an hour than a Horse-man can do in four.

Kerman is a large City, which has been often ruin'd by being several times taken and re-taken; nor is there any thing handsom in it, but only one House and a Garden, upon which the last Kans have bestow'd a vast expence to make the place delightful. They make there a sort of Earthen ware which comes very near to Porcelan, and looks as neat and as fine. As soon as I arriv'd, I went to visit the Kan, who made me very welcom, and gave order to the Gaures to furnish me with Bread and Wine, Pullets and Pigeons, which in those parts are fat, and as large as little Capons. The Gaures are they that make the Wine; and to make it more sweet and pleasant, they take away the Stalks, and never press any thing but the meer Grape.

The Kan was but newly entred into the possession of his Government, and being desirous, according to the custom of the new Governours, to have a noble Sword and Dagger, with a rich Furniture of his Horse, which requir'd some Jewels, I presented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns, which he caus'd to be set in the end of the handle of his Dagger. He also desir'd to have of me as many more Jewels as came to seven or eight hundred Livres: and by the Present and the Bargain I facilitated my purchase of the Wool which I intended to buy. Two days afteer he invited me to his Entry-Feast, which he made for the cheif of the City; and knowing I wanted a Mule, he sent me one well worth a hundred Crowns. This is the Noblest Carriage in all Persia, which the great Personages choose before Horses, especially when they are in years. But it was not the Kan alone who was civil to me. A young Lord, who liv'd in Kerman, and was at the Feast, whose Father had been formerly Kan himself, took great delight to discourse with me concerning my Travels; and offer'd me his service in a very obliging man∣ner. Now the Persians are very curious, and great admirers of the Rarities of Forein Countries: which inclination led the young Lord to enquire of me whether I had any Fire-Arms, telling me he would content me for them to my satisfaction. The next Morning I presented him with a Carbine, and a pair of Pistols that pleas'd him exceedingly; and a little Watch, for which I would take no Money, whereat he seem'd to be not a little troubl'd. However he sent me a stately Horse worth about two hundred Crowns, or twelve Tomans. This young Lord was of a clear humour, civil, accomplish'd, generous, and did every thing with a good grace. So that when he sent me the Horse, he sent to entreat me withal, if I did not like that Horse, to come and choose which I lik'd best in his Stable.

By the favour of this Lord and the Kan, I made good the Purchase that I intended. For the People began to murmur (knowing what a Parcel I had got together) and told the Kan that I would carry away all the Cloth out of the Country, so that they should have none to set the Poor on work. Thereupon the Kan sent for me, and for those reasons told me I must buy no more. To send off the blow, I made answer, That it was the King of Persia's desire to try if we could make as fine Cloth of his Wool in France, as they did in England and Holland; and that if-it succeeded, I should bring French Workmen into Persia, and so by settling the Trade in his own Country, free him from the Charge of forein Manufacturers. This silenc'd the Kan, so that I still bargain'd for more. But when I was return'd to Ispahan, the People of the Country would not keep touch with me. However, I wrote so home to the Kan, threatning withal to complain to the King, that he fearing the King's dis∣pleasure, forc'd the Natives to send me my Bargain to Ispahan.

CHAP. IX.

Of the Road from Kerman to Ispahan; and the Fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg.

FRom Kerman to Ispahan is no less than five and twenty days on Horseback. In those places where there is any Water, the Conntry is very good; but those places are very rare; for the Road is generally Sandy, and offensive to the Eyes. The Chiefest comfort to a Fraveller is, that every Evening he meets with an Inn, where there are Cisterns, which is a great refreshment in those desert Countries. The most part of those Inns were built some Years since by the special care of Mahomet-Ali-Beg Nazar, or Grand Master of the King's House and Treasury; a Person the most Virtuous of any that Persia can boast of for many Years. He was Generous, and favour'd the Franks in all things, for he lov'd them exceedingly. He faithfully serv'd his King, and defended the People against the Oppression and Insolencies of the Great ones; which drew upon him the hatred of many: but still he preserv'd himself by his syncerity and prudence; as by the following Story will remarkably appear.

The Great Sha-Abas the First, being one day a Hunting in the Mountains far out of sight from his followers, met a young Lad playing upon a Pipe by an Herd of Goats. The King asking him some Questions, he answer'd him to the purpose to every one, not knowing who he was. The King surpriz'd at his Repartees, made a sign to Iman-couli-Kan Governour of Schiras, who was just come up to him, not to tell the Goat-herd who he was. After that he proceeded to ask him other Que∣stions; to which the young man answer'd so smartly, that the King could not choose but stand in an amaze. Thereupon the King ask'd the Kan what he thought of the Goat-herds Wit? Who answer'd, that he believ'd if the Boy were taught to Write and Read, he might do good service to his Majesty. Upon that the King immediately caus'd him to be sent to School, where the young Lad being naturally of a solid Wit, clear Judgment, and happy Memory, grew so accomplish'd, and so well acquitted himself of several Employments which his Majesty bestow'd upon him, that the King advanc'd him to the Office of Nazar, or Grand Master of the House, and did him the honour to call him Mahomet-Ali-Beg. The King ob∣serving his fidelity, and good management of all things, sent him twice Ambassador to the Great Mogul, and both times was extreamly pleas'd with his Negotiation. Ma∣homet lov'd Justice, and would not stoop to be corrupted by Presents: A thing which is very rare among the Mahumetans. This great Integrity of his made all the Lords of the Court his Enemies, especially the Eunuchs and the Women, who have always the King's Ear. But while Sha-Abas liv'd, there was no person that durst open his lips against the Nazar, so much was he in favour, and that justly, with the King. Sha-Sefi succeeding his Grandfather Sha-Abas, and being very young, the Nazar's Adversaries thought they had now a fair Game to play. Thereupon the

Eunuchs, who are always at the King's Ear, suggested to him many things to the disadvantage of the Grand Master; but whatever they said, the King gave little heed to their Tales. At length, one day when the King was looking upon certain Skains and Daggers set with precious Stones, one of the Eunuchs told him those were trifles, and then desir'd his Majesty to send for a Scimeter that the Grand Signor had sent Sha-Abas, all over set with Diamonds. True it is, that the Grand Signor had sent a rich Scimiter toSha-Abas; but Sha-Abas had defac'd it long before Mahomet's time, and had made a noble Jewel of the Stones that adorn'd it. There∣upon this Scimitar was sought for in the Treasury, where Mahomet was chief Offi∣cer; but not being to be found, the King was troubl'd, finding it registred in the Book of Presents. Then certain Eunuchs and Grandees of the Court took their opportunity to rip up Mahomet's Life; they represented to the King how many Inns, Bridges, and Dikes Mahomet had built at his own charge; what a House he had rear'd for himself, fitting for his Majesty to live in: and aggravated withal, that he could not do such great things as those, without purloining notably from the Publick Stock; for which he should do well to call him to an account. As they were thus discoursing, Mahomet came into the Presence, to whom the King (not receiving him as he was wont to do) spoke some hard words about the Scimiter that could not be found: telling him withal, that he would see if the all rest of the things in the Treasury were agreeable to the Register, and then gave him fifteen days time to give in his Account. Mahomet not at all mov'd, reply'd to the King, that if his Majesty pleas'd he might come to the Treasury to morrow: and withal be∣sought him so to do, though the King a second time gave him fifteen days. There∣upon the King did go to the Treasury next morning, according to Mahomet's desire, and found all things in good order; having heard before what became of the Sci∣miter. From thence he went to Mahomet s House, who made the King a mean Present: For it is the custom, that he whom the King honours with a Visit, must make a Present to his Majesty. After the King had receiv'd it, he walk'd up and down, and viewed the Chambers, Halls, Parlours and Rooms of State; and wonder'd to see them so ill set out with plain Felts, and course Carpets; whereas in other Lords Houses a man could not set his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of Gold and Silk. For the King, as they had set the Nazar out, expected to have found other things; which made him admire at so great a Moderation in so high a degree of Honour. Now at the end of a Gallery, there was a Door lockt with three great Padlocks. Of this the King took no notice: whereupon the Meter, who is the White Eunuch, and chief of his Chamber, as he came back, shew'd the King the Door that was so strongly Padlock'd; which made the King so curious to have it open'd: withal, asking Mahomet what he had got there lock'd up with so much care? Oh Sir, said he, it behoves me to keep that lockt, for there is all the Estate I have in the World. All that your Majesty has seen in this House is yours, but all that is in that Chamber is mine, and I dare assure my self, your Majesty will be so gaacious as never to take it from me. Those words inflam'd the King's curiosity so, that he commanded the Door to be open'd: But he was strangely surpriz'd, when he saw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheep-hook, that lay upon two Nails, his Scrip wherein he us'd to put his Victuals, his Bottle for his Water, his Pipe, and his Shepherd's Weeds, all hanging against the Wall. The Nazar beholding the King's astonishment at such a Sight, Sir, said he, when the King Sha-Abas ••ound me in the Mountain keeping Goats, then that was all I had, and he took nothing from me: I beseech your Majesty that you would not deprive me of these things neither; but rather, if you please, let me resume them again, and fall to my old calling. The Kin•• touch'd at so high a piece of Virtue, caus'd himself to be disapparel'd, and gave his Habit to the Nazar, which is the greatest Honour that the King of Persia can bestow upon a Subject. Thus Mahomet continu'd and dy'd honourably in his Employment. This brave Person was the Protector of all the Franks in Persia: and if any one had done them wrong, upon complaint he did them Justice immediately. One day as I was shooting Ducks, upon the River of Ispahan near the Nazar's Gardens, with two Servants, some of the Nazar's people that did not know me set upon me, and would have taken away my Gun; which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one, and f••ung the Barrel at the other's Head. Thereupon I took some of the Franks

along with me, and complain'd to the Nazar: He testifi'd his sorrow for what had happen'd, and gave us evident Proofs thereof, by the blows which he caus'd to be laid upon those that had done me the injury.

Another time, Sha-Sefi being upon his return from Guilan, his Tents were set up near Zulfa in Armenia, where the King staid to hunt two or three days. Now among the rest of the Courtizans that follow'd the Court, to divertise the King with Dancing and Mummery, there was one who was perfectly handsom, to whom the King had already sent Presents; which could not be unknown to any Lord i'the Court. But the Nazar's Son, for all that, being in the heat of Youth, got this Courtizan to his Tent, and there lay with her: which came to his Father's Ears next day. The Nazar, whether out of his zeal to the King, or whether it were an effect of his prudence to prevent the King's anger, which would have certain∣ly been the death of his Son, caus'd him to be drub'd, after the manner of the Coun∣try, and bastinado'd all over, till the Nails of his Toes dropt off, and that his Body was almost a perfect Gelly. Which when the King understood, together with the Young Man's Crime, he said no more, but that the Nazar had done wisely by punishing his Son himself, to prevent his Justice.

But to return to the Road from Kerman to Ispahan. The first day that I set out from Kerman, at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Moullah, who seeing I had Wine, civilly offer'd me some of his Ice to cool it. In retaliation, I gave him some of my Bottle. He invited me to his House, which was well built, with a handsom Garden with Water in it. He entertain'd me with Spoon-meat, according to the mode of the Country; and when I took my leave, he fill'd my Baracho with very good Wine.

The following days I saw nothing worthy observation; the Country being as I have already describ'd it.

Yezd lyes in the Road, almost in the mid-way between Kerman and Ispahan, in 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude, and 13 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude. It is a great Town in the middle of the Sands, that extend themselves for two Leagues round it: so that when you leave Yezd you must take a Guide, for upon the least Wind the Sand covers the Highway, whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes, which seem to have been either old Cisterns, or the Ruines of ancient Buildings. Between the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil, which produces excellent Fruits, but above all, Melons of several sorts: the Pulp of some is green, of others yellow and vermilion; and some there are, the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting. There are also very good▪ Grapes, and good Wine; but the Governour will not permit the Inhabitants to make Wine. Some therefore they dry, and of the rest they make a kind of Confection to eat with Bread. There are also abundance of Figs, which are large and well tasted. They distil vast quantities of Rose-water, and another sort of Water with which they dye their Hands and Nails red, which they squeeze out of a certain Root call'd Hina. There are three Inns i'th▪ City, and several Bazars or Market-places cover'd and vaulted, which are full of Mer∣chants and Workmens Ware-houses. They also make at Yezd several Stuffs of Silk intermix'd with Gold and Silver, which they call Zerbaste; and another sort of Stuff of all pure Silk, call'd Daraï, like our smooth strip'd Taffata's. Other Stuffs they made, half Silk half Cotton; others all of Cotton, like our Fustians. They make also Serges of a particular Wool, which is so fine and delicate, that it looks hand∣somer, and is much better than Silk.

Though I had nothing to do, I staid in Yezd three days, because I met with some Armenians of my acquaintance. In which time I found the general Opinion to be true. For certainly the Women of Yezd are the handsomest Women in all Persia. There is no Feast made, but five or six of them come to divertise the Guests with Dancing, who are generally none of the meanest Beauties and Conversations among them. However it comes to pass, the Persian Proverb is, That to live happy, a Man must have a Wise of Yezd, eat the Bread of Yezdecas, and drink the Wine of Schiras.

CHAP. X.

Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans.

THE Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither so convenient, nor so handsom. They are built square, much like Cloysters, being usually but one Story high; for it is rare to see one of two Stories, A wide Gate brings you into the Court; and in the midst of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and lest hand, there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together. On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself. These Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high, just behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the Winter, because they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may see how his Horse is look'd after. These Niches are usually so large, that three men may lye in them; and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals.

There are two sorts of Inns. For some are endow'd; where you may be re∣ceiv'd for Charities sake; others, where you must pay for what you call for. There are none of the first, but between Buda and Constantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build such, but only the Mothers and Sisters of the Grand Signor, or such Viziers, and Basha's as have been three times in Battel against the Christians. In these Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers▪ and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Constantinople to Persia, there are none of those endow'd Inns; only such where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchin, and a Bed to lye on: as for Provision, the people bring Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their seasons: or else you may buy it, provided before-hand by the Master of the House. There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses, unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay something, though it be but a small matter. Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain so many People and Horses. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: sometimes out of Breeding, or out of Interest, an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper shuts up his Gates, being answerable for all things that shall be lost; for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn.

As for the Persian Caravansera's, they are more commodious, and better built than those of Turkie, and at more reasonable distances, throughout almost all the Country. By which description of Inns it is easie to observe, that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuse to give admittance: no person being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleases; but every one being allow'd to spend according to his Stock, without grumbling.

You may travel in Turkie or Persia, either with the Caravan, or else in company, ten or twelve together, or else alone with a Guide. The safest way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reason of the slowness of their march, especially when the Caravans consist of Camels.

The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which consist of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themselves into a con∣dition to defend themselves from Thieves, that are very rise in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi, who orders them how they shall march, assigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that

fall out by the way. There is no honest man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Bashi, being to discharge several small duties upon the Road, however he behave himself, is still suspected for his fidelity. When the Turks are most nume∣rous, they make choice of a Turk; when the Armenian Merchants are most, they choose an Armenian.

There are two forts of Caravans. There are Caravans which consist of Camels, which are the most usual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are several Horses and Mules, which the Merchants themselves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace, but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses; and among these, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap, from thirty to sixty Crowns. As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence, they make use of Asses, of which there are enow to be had. Above all things, you must take care to provide Pack-Horses to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lade their Camels with any such Liquor; that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet, who so strictly forbad the use of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy side turn'd innermost, and well pitch'd within. There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not so good, as being seldom without holes.

These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people, which you shall never know how to deal with, unless you can bring them to punishment. There was one that play'd me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Escrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who presently caus'd a hundred Bastinado's to be giv'n him upon the spot. Nor is there any other way to bring those Scoundrels to reason, especially at Smyrna and such other places, where the Merchants have their Consuls, who upon the least complaint to the Cady have Justice done them imme∣diately. The examples of some of these Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the rest in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after.

The Journies of the Caravans are not equal; sometimes not above six hours travel, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day; in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be sure to have day enough to set up your Tents. For if the Caravan should come to pitch in the night, it would be impossible for them to find where to set up their Tents, to dress and look after their Beasts, make ready their Kitchins, and provide things necessary for so large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they seldom set out till two or three hours after midnight; and that sometimes they stay till day-break. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intend, they set out either at midnight, or an hour after Sun-set. The last time I went from Smyrna the Caravan consisted of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. Sometimes their number is greater, so that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan seems to be an Army; and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reason they travel all night in Asia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholsom; and that the Travellers, that lye for the most part upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, find themselves very little inconve∣nienc'd by it.

The Camels that go into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, travel like Horses in a Cart, by seven and seven; they are ty'd together by a Cord about the bigness of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; fasten'd to the Pack∣saddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harness of the Camel that follows. Those little Cords are made no stronger, to the end that if the Camel before should chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind should either keep him up, or else not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremost, may know whether the other six follow him or no, the last Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it cease to ring, 'tis a sign that

some one of the small Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a mischance. The seventh Camel generally carries the Provisions. For if a Merchant have six Camels laden, he is generally allow'd one to carry his Provision; if he have but three, he is allow'd but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Provisions of Food, or any thing else that he pleases. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, especially in the dark nights; for there are a subtil sort of Thieves, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noise drive the Ca∣mel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be shod, and consequently he makes no noise. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themselves from sleeping sometimes by singing, and sometimes by taking To∣bacco, and sometimes by discourse.

The Caravan lyes in such places as they think most convenient, chiefly near to the Water-side. When the Sun is set, the Shaoux, who are a sort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of your self. When they see that the time grows near to set out, they give notice to the Caravan-Bashi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horses; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a strange thing to consider, that upon the second Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an instant, and the Caravan begins to set for∣ward in great order and great silence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, especially in those Countries which are haunted with Thieves. The Wages of these▪Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piaster for a Bale from Smyrna to Erivan.

When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they shall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two small Wallets on each side his Horse, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-fast, they spread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to.

When you go from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it be∣hoves all people to carry themselves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkie like a Turk, in Persia as a Persian; else would they be accounted ridiculous, nay sometimes they would hardly be permitted to pass in some places, where the least miscarriage makes the Governours jealous, who are easily perswaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Vest, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of passing any where. If you wear a Turbant, you must of necessity shave off your Hair, else it will never stay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkie, the greatest being accounted the handsomest; but in Persia they shave their Chins, and wear their Mustaches: and I remember I have seen one of the King of Persia's Porters, whose Mustaches were so long, that he could tye them behind his neck, for which reason he had a double Pension. More than that, you must provide your self of Boots according to the custom of the Country: they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lin'd with Linen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shooes. As for Spurs, they never wear any; for the Iron at the upper end of the Stirrop, which is four-square, serves to spur the Horse: so much the better, because it is the custom of all Asia to ride very short.

Before you set out, you must provide your self of several Houshold-Goods, espe∣cially of those Bottles that are call'd Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or else fasten'd to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Besides these you must buy Borracho's; the most serviceable things in the World; for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The smaller Bottles serve to put Aqua-vitae in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to it self, that it keeps the Water fresh. Then you must provide Food, and make a provision of Rice and Bisket as far as Tocat: For as for Pullets, Eggs, and such like things, you meet with them almost every where; as also with Provision for your. Horses, and new Bread, unless in some few places. You must also carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mat∣tress; and Clothes to cover the Horses at night, especially in the time of the

deep Snows, wherein you shall find them almost buried the next mor∣ning.

When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to stop, every Mer∣chant rides before to take up a convenient place for himself and his Goods, for which he covets a rising Ground, that if it should happen to rain, the Water may run from the Bales. They also in that case lay Stones under the Bales, and a Cloth over them; and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run into. But if it be fair weather, there is no care tak'n to set up the Tent: or if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the Thieves. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather, the Tent is let stand till the first Cry of the Shaoux. The Horses are ty'd before the▪ Tent with Cords fasten'd to a Nail, and their hinder Legs are ty'd with other Cords, to the end they may not stir out of their places. If it be not seasonable for them to eat Grass, you must buy Barley, and Straw of the Country-men that come to serve the Caravan, their being no Oats neither in Turkis nor Persia.

In dressing your Victuals, you must follow the custom of the Country; which is, to make a Hole in the Ground, and then kindling a Fire in it, to set the Pot over it.

But the greatest inconvenience which Trevellers suffer with the Caravans is this, that when they come▪ Waters, which are only Wells, or Cisterns, or Springs, where only two or three lade up Water at a time. For after▪ the Caravan is lodg'd, the Merchants shall be forc'd to stay for Water two or three hours together; for they that belong to the Beasts of Carriage, will not suffer any person to take any Water, till the Camels, Horses, Asses, and Mules are all serv'd. Nor is there any contending with these Camel-drivers and Muleters; for as they are a rude sort of people, a Man runs the hazard of his Life by contesting alone: of which one Example may suffice for all.

Setting out one day from Bander-Abassi, for Ispahan, with a Merchant of Babylon, as we came to the Inn where we lay the first night, which was call'd Guetchy▪ the Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique, to fetch him some fresh Water at the Cistern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and return'd without any Water, telling his Master, that the Camel-drivers and Mu∣leters threaten'd to beat him, and would not let him come near the Cistern. The Merchant either ill advis'd, or not knowing the custom, bid him go back, and kick those that refus'd him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the same resistance as before, began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers, so that one of them happen'd to strike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, ran him into the Belly, so that he fell down dead: Thereupon the whole Rabble fell upon him, bound him, and carry'd him back to Bander-Abassi for the Governour to put him to death. The Master of the Cafer, accompany'd by several Merchants, went to the Governour and represented to him the insolence of those people, and how the business had happen'd. Upon which the Governour took the poor fellow out of their hands, and caus'd him to be kept safe; after that, he caus'd ten or a dozen of those Muleters to be seiz'd, and orderd'd them to be soundly bastinado'd, for hindring a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Master. He also put others in Prison; who had not been releas'd so soon, but at the request of those Merchants whose Goods they carry'd, and who stood in need of their service. The Governour▪ spun out the business, on purpose that the rest might be gone: but as soon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party slain, he told them, he could not do them Justice, because their Brother belong'd to Schiras; so that all that he could do, was to send the Criminal thither. The Master of the Cafer being rich, and loving the Slave, made hast to Schiras, to tell his Story first to the Kan. And I remember, two days jourey yon this side Schiras we met in the High way abundance of poor people, the kindred of the party slain, who were staying for the Cafer, to carry him before the Kan, and to demand Justice. Two o•• three Leagues also from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the Wife and Children of the deceas'd, who seeing me pass along, fell at my Feet and recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmachi, that their best and surest way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer's Master, and so to put up

the business. This Proposal, that would have been accepted in Christendom, was rejected by those poor Mahometans; in so much that the Father tore his Beard, and the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the custom of the Franks to seil the Blood of their Kindred, it was not their custom so to do. When the rest of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras, the Kan did all he could to persuade the Widow to take Money; but not being able to over-rule her, he was forc'd to give the Cafer into their hands: and how they us'd him I cannot tell, being con∣strain'd at the same time to pais from Schiras for Ispahan.

CHAP. XI.

Of the breeding, nature, and several sorts of Camels.

THE Female Camel bears her Burthen eleven Months; and her Milk is a sovereign Remedy against the Dropsie. You must drink a Pint of it every Day for three Weeks together: and I have seen several Cures wrought thereby at Balsara, Ormus, and in other places in the Persian Gulf, upon several English and Holland Mariners.

So soon as a Camel comes into the World, they sold his Feet under his Belly, and make him lye upon them; after that they cover his Back with a Carpet that hangs to the Ground, laying Stones upon each side▪ so that he may not be able to rise; and thus they leave him for fifteen or twenty days. In the mean time they give him Milk to drink, but not very often; to the end he may be accustom'd to drink little. This they do also to use them to lye down, when they go about to Lade them; at which time they will fold their Legs and lye down so obediently, that it is an admirable thing to consider. So soon as the Caravan comes to the place where it is to lye, all the Camels that belong to one Master will range themselves in a Circle, and lye down upon their fore Feet; so that ••is but untying one Cord that holds the Bales, and they will slide off gently from each side of the Camel. When 'tis time to lade again, the same Camel comes and crouches down between the two Burthens, and when they are fasten'd, gently rises up with the Burthen again; which is done without any trouble or noise. When the Camels are unladen, they let them go a∣field to feed upon the Heath and Bushes, and half an hour before Sun set they return of themselves, unless any one happen to wander, which they will call again with a certain Cry which is natural to them. When they return, they range themselves in a Circle, and the Muleters give to every one little Balls of Barley∣meal kneaded, as big as two Fists. The Camel though he be of a large bulk, eats very little, contented with what he meets with upon the Heaths; where he more especially looks for Thistles, of which he is a great lover. But it is more admi∣rable to consider with what patience they▪ endure drowth: For one time that I cross'd over the Deserts, where we were 65 days upon the Road, our Camels were nine days without Drink. But what is more wonderful is this, that when the Ca∣mel is in the heat of Generation, he neither eats nor drinks for 40 days together; and he is then so furious, that without great care you cannot avoid being bitten by him: And whereever he bites, he carries away a piece of the Flesh. At that time issues out of their Mouths a white Foam, besides that there appears on each side of their Chops two Bladders large and swell'd, like the Bladder of a Boar.

In the Spring time all the Camel's Hair falls off in three days. The Skin remains bare, and then the Flies are very troublesom. There is no way but to Tar them all over▪ though it be a ventrous thing to come near them at that time.

A Camel must be drest as well as a Horse; but the Camel keeper never uses any Curry-comb, but only beats him all over with a small Wand, as Carpets are wont to be dusted. If a Camel be hurt or gall'd under the Pack▪ saddle, they never apply any thing to it, but only wash it well with Urine, without using any other Re∣medy.

There are two sorts of Camels; the one which is proper for hot Countries, the other for cold Countries.

The Camels in hot Countries, such as go from Ormus to Ispaehan, cannot travel if the Ground be dirty and slippery; for their Belldies burst, while their hinder Quarters rive from their Bodies. These are small Camels, that carry not above five or six hundred Pound weight; but they are kept for little, and endure Thirst a long time. They do not tye them Head to Tayl, as they do the great ones, but let them go as they please themselves, like a Herd of Cows. The Camel-driver follows them singing, and sometimes playing upon his Pipe: the louder he sings and pipes, the faster the Camels go; nay they will stand still when he gives over his Musick. When the Camel-drivers come to a Heathy Ground, they will give them leave to seed for half an hour, taking their Tabacco the while; and then singing them together again, they set forward. The Camels bred in the Deserts are handsom, but very tender, so that they must be gently us'd, and never be put upon long Jour∣nies. However, they eat and drink less than others, and endure thirst more pa∣tiently.

The Camels of cold Countries, such as those that travel from Tauris to Constan∣tinople, are large Camels, that carry great Burthens, and will pull themselves out of the dirt. But in fat Grounds and slippery Ways the Drivers are fain to spread Carpets, sometimes an hundred one behind another; otherwise their hinder Quarters are also apt to rive from their Buttocks; but if the Road be slippery for too great a distance together, there is no way but to tarry 'till it be dry'd up and fair. These Camels usually carry a thousand Pound weight: but if the Merchant has any hank upon the Camel driver, he will lay upon every Camel fifteen hundred weight, thereby making two of three Burthens. This the Merchants do, when they come near the Custom-Houses, especially that of Erzerom, which is the most severe. The Merchant does this for his own Profit: So that when the Customer mistrusting, de∣mands how so many Camels come to travel empty, he makes answer, that they were Camels that carry'd Provision: But the Customer most commonly winks at that good Husbandry of the Merchant, for fear of losing his Custom, and obliging the Merchant to take another Road.

There is as much knavery among the Camel drivers, as among our Horse-Coursers. For I remember, that being once at Casbin, a Persian Merchant, thinking he had bought eight good Camels, was deceiv'd in four which he thought the best. He verily believing they had been fat and in good case, but they were only blown up. For those Cheats have a trick to cut a Hole near the Tail, of which the Purchaser takes no notice, and which they know neatly how to sow up again: In this Hole they will blow till they have pust up a lean Camel, that he shall appear as fat and plump as the soundest that ever fed: whereby they often deceive the quickest sights, especially when the Hair is all off, and that the bare Skin is all rub'd over with Tar.

CHAP. XII.

Of the Coyns and Money of Persia.

IN the first place, you must take notice that there are no Pieces of Gold coyn'd in Persia, but only some few, to be thrown among the People when a new King ascends the Throne: which Pieces are neither currant among the Mer∣chants, nor of a certain Price. When the Solemnity is over, they who get the Pieces, are not so curious to keep them, but carry them to the Changer, who gives them the value in currant Money. These Pieces of Gold may be worth five * 1.2Franks, about the fineness of Almain-Ducats. Once I receiv'd ten thousand of them of one Merchant, at a prefix'd rate; for their value is uncertain.

In the second place observe, That the Silver in Persia is good, whether it be in Barrs, or in Plate, or in Money, and it is taken for its goodness. For when a

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Page. 51.▪ The money of the King of Persia.

Travels in India.

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Merchant enters into Persia, whether it be at Erivan or Tauris, where the Money is coyn'd, he is oblig'd to tell what Silver he carry's, to the end it may be melted down and stamp'd with the King's Stamp; under a great Penalty, if discover'd to be a concealer. But if a Merchant's affairs will not permit him to stay at Erivan, or at Tauris; and that he think it better to carry his Money to the Mint of Ispahan; 'tis but taking a Note from the Master of the Mint either at Tauris or Erivan, to attest that he has declar'd the truth of what he carries, and it is excuse enough.

But they that can cunningly carry their Silver to Erivan, when the Season is to go to the Indies, make a great profit of the Real; for the Merchants that go to the Indies will give them thirteen and a half, or fourteen Shayez a piece, for as many as they have. But there are few Merchants that carry their Silver to Ispa∣han; in regard the Masters of the Mints upon the Frontiers will be sure to present them with a good piece of Silver Plate, rather than let them carry away their Bullion to Ispahan, to have the benefit of Coynage themselves.

They that traffick into Guilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teslis, where the Master of the Mint gives them 2 per Cent. profit for their Silver. The reason is, because that which he gives them for it is a little sophisticated; but it passes currant all over Guilan.

In the third place, you must observe, That upon the pieces of Silver, as well for the King's Duty as the Coynage of the Money, there is requir'd 7 ½ per Cent. But upon the Copper Money, not above one half, or 1 per Cent. at most. Whence it comes to pass, that when a Workman has need of Copper, rather than lose time in going to buy it, he will melt down his Casbeke's.

There are four several pieces of Silver Coyn; Abassi's, Mamoudi's. Shaet's, and Bisti's: but as for the Bisti's, there are very few at present.

The Copper pieces of Coyn are call'd Casbeké, of which there are single and double.

The single Casbeké is worth five Deniers and a Half-peny of our Money.

The double Casbeké is valu'd at eleven Deniers.

Four single Casbeké's, or two double ones, make a Bisti.

Ten single Casbeké's, or five double ones, make one Shayet in value.

Two Shayet's make a Mamoudi.

Two Mamoudi's make an Abassi.

The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abassi's and one Shayet; and counting a Real at sixty Sous, an Abassi is worth eighteen Sous, six Deniers. Though to say truth, three Abassi's and one Shayet make three Half-pence more than the Crown.

Number 1, and Number 2. Are two pieces, which upon one side bear the Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet, and in the middle this In∣scription, La I••lah allah Mahomet resoul Allah, Ali Vaeli Allah: on the back-side, The Conquerour of the World, Abas II. gives us permission to coyn this Money in the City of Cashan.

Num. 1. Makes five Abassi's; and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayet's, it comes to four Liveres, twelve Sou••, six Deniers.

Num. 2. Makes two Abassi's and a half of our Money, or forty-six Sous and one Farthing.

Num. 3. Is an Abassi, which comes to eighteen Sous, six Deniers.

Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi, worth nine Sous and a Farthing.

Num. 5. Is a Shayet, worth four Sous, seven Deniers, one Half-peny.

Num. 6. A Bisti, worth one Sous, ten Deniers.

Num. 7. The Copper Coyn, call'd Casbeké, worth five Deniers, one Half-peny.

These Coyns, unless it be the Casbeké, bear no other Inscription, but only the Name of the King reigning when they were coyn'd; the Name of the City where they were coyn'd; with the Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet.

Though all Payments are made in Abassi's, as well at Ormus and other parts of the Gulf belonging to the King of Persia, as in the Island▪ of Bahren, where is the great Fishery and Market for Pearls; yet there is no mention made but only of Larins.

The Larin is describ'd in the Money of Arabia. Eight Larins make an Or; four and twenty made a Toman.

An Or is not the name of a Coyn, but of a Sum in reck'ning among Merchants. One Or is five Abassi's.

A Toman is another Sum in payment: For in all Persian Payments they make use of only Tomans and Ors; and though they usually say that a Toman makes fifteen Crowns, in truth it comes to forty-six Livres, one Peny and ⅕.

As for pieces of Gold, the Merchant never carries any into Persia, but Alman-Ducats, Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces, or of Venice; and he is bound to carry them into the Mint so soon as he enters into the Kingdom; but if he can cunningly hide them, and sell them to particular persons, he gets more by it. When a Mer∣chant goes out of the Kingdom, he is oblig'd to tell what pieces of Gold he carries with him; and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat, and some∣times they value the Ducat at more. But if he carrie's his Gold away privately and be discover'd, all his Gold is confiscated.

The Ducat usually is worth two Crowns, which in Persia justly comes to twenty∣six Shayets; but there is no price fixt in that Country for Ducats. For when the season is to go for the Indies, or that the Caravan sets out for Meccae, as well the Merchants as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out, by reason of their light∣ness; and then they rise to twenty-seven, and twenty-eight Shayets, and sometimes more, a piece.

The end of the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Provinces of Turky.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Every Frank being 2 s. sterling.
• * 1.2

  A Frank is worth 2 s. Ster∣ling.