A tour in Wales. MDCCLXX: [pt.2]

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IN this, the sequel of my former tour, I directed my course westward from Downing, passed by Whiteford, our parish-church, and ascended the hill of Garreg, or the Rock, a high and most conspicuous part of the country. The Romans took ad∣vantage of it, and placed on its summit a Pharos,* 1.1 to conduct the navigators to and from Deva, along the difficult channel of the Seteia Portus. The building is still remaining. I hope my friends will not deem me an antiquarian Quixote, and imagine me mis∣taking, in this my second sally, a building, hitherto supposed to have been a wind-mill, for a Roman light-house. It is tolerably entire; its form is circular; the height considerable; the inner diameter twelve feet and a half; the thickness of the walls four feet four inches. The doors, or entrances, are opposite to each other: over each is a square funnel, like a chimney, which opens on the outside, about half way up the building. On each side is

a window. About four feet from the ground are three circular holes, lined with mortar, as is frequent in Roman buildings; and penetrate the whole wall, for purposes now unknown.

WITHINSIDE are the vestiges of a stair-case, which led to the floors, of which there appear to have been two. Along such part of the upper, which was conspicuous from the channel, are eight small square openings, cased with free-stone (the rest of the build∣ing being of rude lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar) and each of these were separated by wooden pannels, placed in deep grooves, the last still in a perfect state. In each of these partitions were placed the lights, which the Romans thought necessary to keep distinct, or to prevent from running into one, lest they should be mistaken by seamen for a star. Periculum in corrivatione ignium, ne sidus existimetur* 1.2.

To the building is very evidently a broad and raised road, pointing from the east; and near its upper end are the marks of a trench, which surrounded and gave protection to this useful edi∣fice. Descend, and near the foot of the hill leave on the left Maen Achwynfan, the cross described in my former tour. Glol, an inclosed mountain a little farther on, has among the bushes various circular foundations of stone unmortared building. About a mile from hence, * 1.3 visit the small town of Newmarket, almost the entire creation of its then owner, John Wynne, esq of Gop, who died in the present century. The antient name of the parish is Tre∣lawnyd, for which I can find no satisfactory reason. In the church-yard is a handsome old cross. Here is fixed one of the charity-schcols, founded and opened in 1726, by doctor Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an endowment of eight pounds a year; a charity which he extended to every county in North Wales, dis∣tinguishing that at Wrexham, the place of his birth, by an annual

salary of fifteen pounds. He also established a fund, I believe, to each, from which the children are apprenticed, at five pounds apiece.

FROM the town I ascended the hill, * 1.4 called Copa'r'leni, on whose summit is a most enormous carnedd, or tumulus, formed of lime∣stones. It was probably the site of specula, or exploratory tower, and memorial of some chieftain. If Roman, perhaps Paulinus gave name to it, Cop-Paulini. There is great uncertainty in these derivations: I may possibly as well abide by my former etymo∣logy of Cop yr Goleuni, or the Mount of Lights; for it might have been a place of signals by fire of the approach of an enemy by sea * 1.5, or a station of the holy fires, the Coel Ceithie of the Druids, simi∣lar to the Karn Gollewa, the carn of lights, and Karn Leskyz, or carn of burnings, of the Cornish, supposed by the learned BORLASE † 1.6 to have been used for similar purposes. The tract from hence to Caerwys was certainly a field of battle: no place in North Wales exhibits an equal quantity of tumuli; but all sepulchral, as is proved by the urns discovered in them: they are of a far inferior size to the first, and covered with turf. It will not be too hazardous a conjecture to suppose, that in this place was the slaughter of the Ordovices by Agricola, when our gallant nation was nearly extir∣pated. Part of the brow of the hill is called Bryn y Saethiau, or the Hill of Arrows, from being the station of the archers in the en∣gagement.

RETURN along the ridge of the hill, marked its whole length with verdant tumuli, the tombs of ancient heroes. See beneath

me the little church of Gwaen-yskor,* 1.7 remarkable for its ancient register.

DESCEND to the church and village of Llanasa, the former dedi∣cated to St. Asaph, whose festival is kept on the first of May.* 1.8 Laurence Child, Bishop of St. Asaph, in 1385, procured the impro∣priation of this church to supply his cathedral with lights * 1.9, and repair the ruins occasioned by the wars. In my approach from these high lands towards the shore, observe the ruins of a small chapel at the little hamlet of Gwespyr, near Trelacre, one of the seats of Sir Pyers Mostyn, Baronet, a branch of the house of Mostyn. His adjacent quarry is noted for the excellence of the free-stone; and his vast and profitable warren beneath, noted for the delicacy of the rabbets, by reason of their feeding on the maritime plants.

PASS over Gronant-Moor.* 1.10 There is a tradition, that its extent was so great, that the people on this side could hold conversation over the channel with those of Cheshire. This may be exagge∣rated; but from authentic records, it appears, that this flat was formerly very extensive, and that it had been reduced to its pre∣sent scanty limits by the fury of the sea, which still possesses its antient place. Previous to that catastrophe, it was possessed by the see of St. Asaph, by virtue of a grant made by Edward the Black Prince, son of Edward III. to Llewelyn ap Madoc, elected Bishop of St. Asaph in 1357. The inundation happened before the reign of Henry V. Previous to that time, the Bishop paid annually into the exchequer at Chester, as an acknowlegement, the sum of twenty marks: but Henry V. in 1414, and Henry VI. in 1445 and 1451, in consideration of the misfortune, released

the see from that rent* 1.11. If this record did not remain an incon∣teslable proof of the ravages of the ocean on this part of the coun∣try, there exist other natural ones, that would have given rea∣sonable grounds for suspicion. The Hyle sands, which run for twelve or fourteen miles parallel to the narrow hundred of Wiral, in Cheshire, and divided from Wales by a narrow channel, were once, in all probability, part of the firm land of England. A few miles to the west of Gronant-Moor, under the parish of Aber∣geleu, in Denbighshire, are to be seen at low water, very remote from the shore, bedded in the sand, immense numbers of oak-trees, a forest before this event. Lastly, in the church-yard wall of Abergelli is a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, signifying the person who was interred there lived three miles to the north of that spot, a tract now entirely possessed by the sea.

ON approaching Prestatyn, about two miles from Trelacre, the flat becomes extremely fertile in corn, especially wheat, which is of distinguished excellence; and continues equally noted through all the flat tract, as far as Ruddlan, where it is interrupted for a space by the marsh, and is again continued along the coast far beyond Abergeleu. A little below Prestatyn-mill, in a meadow, is the site of its Castle: nothing more than an elevated space, with foundations consisting of stone and mortar, and a foss at some dis∣tance from it, now remain. * 1.12 This little fortress was probably built by the Welsh, but wrested from them by the English, who were possessed of it in 1167, the only time I find any mention of it, when it was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, Cadwalader his brother,

and Rees Prince of South Wales; and all Tegengle reduced to the power of its lawful sovereign.

THE hamlet and village of Prestatyn lie in the parish of Meli∣den. This place was granted by Richard I. to Robert Banaster, who enjoyed it for three years and a half, and built the town; which was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd. Robert de Crevecoeur, in the seventh year of Edward I. laid claim to it in right of his an∣cestor, Banaster. An inquisition was made, before a jury of twenty-four men * 1.13: their determination was in favor of Robert; since I find, by another record, that he died possessed of lands in Maelwr Saesneg and Prestatyn, which he held by the service of one knight's fee.

THE road from hence to Diserth is extremely pleasant, at the foot of high hills, rich in lead ore, with a fine and fertile flat to the right. The white rock makes a conspicuous figure on the left, and its sides appeared deeply trenched by the miners in search of ore. Near this place is the beginning of the vale of Clwyd, and the ter∣mination of the range of mountains, which bound it on the east. At a small distance from hence lies the church of Diserth, in a picturesque and romantic bottom, beneath some rude rocks: the church overshaded with great yews, and the singular figure of some of the tombs, form a most striking appearance. * 1.14 A water-fall in the deep and rounded hollow of a rock, finely darkened with ivy, once gave additional beauty to this spot; but of late the di∣verting of the waters to a mill, has robbed the place of this ele∣gant variation. The stream, which is little inferior to that of Holywell, flows principally from a single well, called Fynnon Asa,

or St. Asaph's Well, in a dingle in the parish of Cwm, about a mile distant. The fountain is inclosed with stone, in a polygonal form, and had formerly its votaries, like that of St. Winefrede.

ABOVE Diserth church, on a high rock, stand the remains of its Castle. We cannot trace the foundation of this fortress, which went by the names of Din-colyn, Castell y Ffailon, and Castell Gerri* 1.15 * 1.16 It probably was Welsh, and the last of the chain of British posts on the Clwydian hills. Henry III. in 1241, fortified it † 1.17; but its date was but short, for in 1261 Llewelyn ap Gryffydd rased both this castle, and that of Diganwy‡ 1.18. It was at a siege of this place that Eineon, the son of Ririd Vlaidd, was slain § 1.19. A cross was erected on the spot, called Croes Eineon, the shaft of which, ornamented with strange sculpture, now is supposed to form the stile into the church-yard of Diserth; in which is another cross, of very curious work∣manship.

THE castle occupied the summit of the rock, whose sides are escarpée, or cut steep, to render the access more difficult. On one part, beneath the top, is a square out-work, with fosses cut in part through the solid lime-stone. The fragments of the castle shew, that its ruin was not effected by time: they lie in vast masses, overthrown by mining, which was a common method of besieging, very long before the use of powder.

IN a field a little to the south of the castle, is a ruinous build∣ing, called Siamber Wen. This is said to have been the seat of a Sir Robert Pounderling‖ 1.20, once constable of the adjacent castle, * 1.21 a knight valiant and prudent, who had one of his eyes knocked out

by a gentleman of Wales, in the rough sport of tournament; but being requested to challenge him again to feates of armes, on meeting our countryman at the English court, declined the com∣bat, declaring that he did not intend that the Welshman should beat out his other eye * 1.22.

Moel Hiraddug, a British post, on a very steep and rocky hill, with an immense agger of loose stones on the accessible part, stands to the south of the castle, and forms the next to it in the chain of fortresses † 1.23 On the east side, and on a place called Marion, are long deep trenches, out of which minerals have been dug, proba∣bly in the times of the Saxons: the ore appears, by the fragments, and color of the rubbish, to have been iron: and on the summit of the hill (which is in the parish of Cwm) is a great bed of beau∣tiful red spar, which seems to take its tinge from the ore.

Cwn church, as the word signifies, is embosomed with hills, and fronts the vale of Clwyd.* 1.24 On a very antient stone in the church-yard is this inscription, Hic jacet TANGWISTE, uxor LLEWELIN ap INIR; but whether of Inir of Yale is uncertain.

FROM Diserth I rode to Bod-Rhyddan, long the residence of the Conways, a family derived from Sir Hugh Conway, son of old John Coniers, of Richmond, Yorkshire, brother to Jevan Lord Coniers‡ 1.25: his son Sir Henry, by marriage with Angharat, heiress to Sir Hugh Crevecoeur, of Prestatyn§ 1.26, probably acquired the settlement in this country. Prestatyn continued possessed by the Conways till the death of Sir John Conway, Baronet, in 1721, the last of the male line, when the estate was divided.

ABOUT a mile and a half farther stands the small borough of Rhuddlan, seated high on the red, clayey banks of the Clwyd, and above Morsa-Rhuddlan, a marsh celebrated for the battle in 795, between the Saxons and Welsh: our monarch Caradoc fell in the conflict * 1.27, and, I fear, victory declared against us. We do indeed say, that Offa, the famous king of Mercia, was slain here; but the Saxon chronicle places his death † 1.28 the year before that battle. The fine plaintive Welsh tune, so well known by the name of Morfa-Rhuddlan, is supposed to have been composed on this occasion: for victories are not the only subjects for the harp. How beauti∣fully does David lament the blood of the slain on the mountains of Gilboa: HOW ARE THE MIGHTY FALLEN, AND THE WEAPONS OF WAR PERISHED!

THE castle had been a handsome building, in a square, with two extremes placed at opposite corners, with a double round tower at each; and a single one at the two other corners. * 1.29 The court forms an irregular octagon. The ditch is large, faced on both sides with stone. The steep slope to the river was defended by high walls, and square towers: one is entire, and there are vestiges of two others: the first is called Twr-y-Silod; another, in the castle, was named Twr-y-Brenhin, or the King's Tower.

To the south of the castle, at about a furlong distance, is a large artificial mount, the site of another fortress, of very early date; the whole surrounded by a very deep foss (including also the abby) which crosses from the margin of the bank, near the ascent of the present road to St. Asaph, to another parallel road; near which it is continued, then turns and falls nearly into the southern part of the

walled ditch of the castle: the whole forms a square area, of very great extent. These different works were formed at three several times. The mount, now called Tut-Hill, and its superstructure, (whatever it was) is thoroughly British, and is said to have been built by Llewelyn ap Sitsylt, who reigned from the year 1015 to 1020 * 1.30. It was a residence of our princes from that time: but Gryffyd ap Llewelyn, in 1063, having given offence to Edward the Confessor, by receiving Algar, one of his rebellious subjects, was attacked by Harold, who in revenge burned the palace at Rhudd∣lan† 1.31. It was soon restored, and as soon lost. Robert, afterwards surnamed of Rhuddlan, a valiant Norman, nephew to Hugh Lupus, earl of Chester, conquered it from the Welsh, and, by the command of William the Conqueror, fortified it with new works ‡ 1.32, and made it his place of residence; from whence he greatly annoyed our countrymen. The square towers are evidently of Norman archi∣tecture, and naturally adopted by the new owner. Robert received here a visit from our prince Gryffydd ap Kynan, who came to solli∣cit aid against his enemies, from the Norman warrior; which he obtained: but on some quarrel attacked him in his castle, took and burnt the bailey, or yard, and killed such a number of his men, that very few escaped into the towers § 1.33.

Henry II. in 1157, added new strength to the castle, and left a considerable garrison in it before he quitted the country. Not∣withstanding this, Owen Gwynedd, in 1167, took and dismantled

it; but it was afterwards re-fortified by the English; for it ap∣pears that this fortress had, with two others, been bestowed by Henry, with Emma his natural sister, on David ap Owen, son and successor to Owen Gwynedd. Here, in 1187, he entertained, very nobly, Baldwin archbishop of Canterbury, in his progress through Wales* 1.34. Possibly he resigned it again to the English; for I find that in 1214 it was besieged and taken by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, his successor in the principality † 1.35.

I MUST not omit relating, notwithstanding I am unable to give the year of the event, that Randle Blundeville, earl of Chester, was in this castle surprized by a body of Welsh, and lay in the utmost distress, until he was relieved by his lieutenant, Roger Lacy, alias Hell; who collecting suddenly a rabble of fiddlers and idle people, put the besiegers to flight. In reward, he received from the earl, Magisterium omnium Leccatorum et meretricum TOTIUS CESTRESHIRE ‡ 1.36.

I FIND it in possession of Edward I. in 1277; who was so well convinced of its importance in the conquest of Wales, that he made it the rendezvous of all the forces destined for that purpose. It was the place d'armes, and the great magazine of provision for the support of his army, in its advance into the country. The reigning prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, knew the danger of leaving so consequential a place in the hands of his enemy: but it resisted all the most vigorous efforts made on it in 1281, by Llewelyn and his brother David, just reconciled to him by the sense of their com∣mon

danger. Soon after, it proved the place of confinement to the letter, not long before his ignominious end at Shrewsbury.

IN order to secure it from any future attempts, Edward turned all his thoughts towards founding a fortress impregnable by any future attempts of the Welsh. He accordingly began with an act of justice, that of making recompence to Master Richard Bernard, parson of Rhuddlan, for certain lands taken from him for the pur∣pose of enlarging the castle * 1.37; and again, in 1282, made an ex∣change with the same church, of six acres and a half, for the same uses † 1.38: and on which he built the castle, whose ruins we now sur∣vey. The finishing of it took a considerable time; for I find an order in 1291, for overlooking the works at the castles of Rhuddlan, Flint, and Chester‡ 1.39. I cannot but remark here, the strong neces∣sity of curbing the new-conquered country with powerful garri∣sons; for notwithstanding all the ravages of long and barbarous wars, it remained so exceedingly populous, that Edward politi∣cally drafted out of it not less than fifteen thousand men, in aid of his Scottish expedition § 1.40 The consequence proved almost fatal to him: for while he lay encamped near Linlithgow, a national quarrel ensued between the English and Welsh troops; and after great bloodshed, the latter separated themselves from his army ‖ 1.41.

DURING the civil wars of the last century, * 1.42, it was garrisoned on the part of the king; was taken by general Mytton in July 1646; and in the same year ordered by the parlement in the phrase of

the times) to be slighted, i. e. dismantled, with many other Welsh castles * 1.43.

IN respect to the civil history of Rhuddlan, I find, that in the reign of Edward the Confessor, it made part of the great territo∣ries of earl Edwin. It was then, by reason of the inroads of Ha∣rold, a waste; and continued so when it was possessed by Hugh Lupus. It then became the capital of the district: and Hugh en∣joyed a moiety of the church, the mint, and mines of the iron ore found in the manor † 1.44; and a moiety of the water of Clwyd, i. e. of the mill and fishery on such part which belonged to earl Edwin; a moiety of the forests on the manor, and of the toll, and of the village called Bren: and there were at this time in Rhuddlan eight burgesses. All this Hugh Lupus granted to Robert of Rhuddlan, with an addition of certain hamlets dependent on the place; and a new borough was erected, with eighteen burgesses, who enjoyed the same privileges with those of Hereford and Bre∣tril; and were exempted from all fines exceeding twelve-pence, except in case of manslaughter, theft, and heinfare, i. e. the de∣priving a person of his servant ‡ 1.45.

EDWARD I.* 1.46 made this town a free borough, appointed the con∣stable of the castle for the time being to be mayor, and the bailiffs to be chosen annually by the burgesses on Michaelmas-day, who were to be presented to the constable to be sworn. The town

was to have power of imprisoning, except in such cases which affected the life, or loss of limb: when criminals of this nature were to be committed to the castle, burgesses only were permitted to bail. No Jews were to inhabit the town. The burgesses had a forest and free warren; a gild cum hausa et loth et shoth, sok sak et theam et insangenthest et lib. per totam terram de Theoloniis, lesta∣gio, Muragio, Danegeld, Gaywite, &c.

THIS charter was given by the King at Flint, September 8th, in the twelfth year of his reign; Testibus, Rob. Bath & Wells, &c. and confirmed by Richard II. at Leicester, and again at West∣minster.

No constable has been appointed since the days of Oliver Cromwel.

THE burgesses contribute towards electing a member for the borough of Flint. Those who are qualified inhabit the place, and that part of the parish called Rhuddlan Franchise, which extends above a mile from the town.

THE parlement said to have been held here in 1283, * 1.47 by Ed∣ward I. was probably no more than a council assembled by the conqueror, to divide his new conquests into counties, and to give salutary laws to the Welsh; to abolish any antient customs which the wise prince thought detrimental, and to introduce such of the English as would prove of use. This was not done hastily; for in the year preceding, a commission had been appointed, with Tho∣mas Beke, bishop of St. David, president; who were to consider and report upon oath the different laws of both countries. From their resolutions were framed the famous STATUTE OF RHUDDLAN; in which, among many excellent institutions, were introduced

sheriffs and coroners, their powers defined, and the principal crimes of the times pointed out: most of which were acts of vio∣lence, rapine, and theft; such as might be expected to exist among people: an evil which resulted more from the turbulence of the times, than the want of wholesome laws * 1.48.

A PIECE of antient building, called the Parlement House, is still to be seen in Rhuddlan; probably the place where the king sat in council. From hence he actually practised the well-known deceit of giving them a prince born among them, who never spoke a word of English, and whose life and conversation no man was able to stain † 1.49: all which our discontented nobility eagerly accepted, little thinking the person intended, to be the infant Ed∣ward, just born at Caernarvon.

THE bridge consists of two arches.* 1.50 It appears to have been rebuilt or repaired in 1595: that date, with the arms of St. Asaph, and the initials of William Hughes, the bishop of that time, being cut in the battlements. The tides flow very little higher than this place; and bring up to the bridge slats or vessels of about seventy tons. The port of these parts is about three miles further, at the vorryd, or great ford, where the river dis∣charges itself into the sea; and from whence much corn and tim∣ber is exported.

THE house called the Gwindy, or Wine House, * 1.51 must not be for∣gotten. There are few towns in Wales which have not one of that name: but the use has long been lost. In old times,

most gentlemen's houses had one in their neighborhood, where they met their friends and retainers, to ymgampio, or to exert feats of activity. Here the gentleman kept a wine cellar, which he retailed for his own profit. Here they passed the day in archery, wrestling, throwing the sledge, and other manly exercises. At first, the drinking was moderate: but at length the purpose was abused; and these places were made the sanctuary for all sorts of crimes, committed by the dependents or friends of the owner of the Gwindy, who were recommended to his care: and there Llawruddion, i.e. persons who came red-handed from a murder, were protected till composition could be made for their crimes.

THE church is dedicated to St. Mary.* 1.52 It has nothing re∣markable about it, except an antient grave-stone, with a flowery cross and sword; the last the mark of the gentility of the person interred. The patronage of this church was granted in 1284 to the see of St. Asaph, in recompence for the loss of that of Eglwys∣vach, which had been taken from it, and bestowed on the abby of Conway* 1.53.

THE priory of black-friers, stood about half a mile south of the castle. There is a fragment which bears the marks of antiquity: the rest is disguised in the form of a farm-house and barn. We do not know the time of its foundation: but it was certainly be∣fore the conquest by Edward I. as Anian, or Eineon de Schonan, a friar of this house, was made bishop of St. Asaph in 1268. It suffered much in the wars between Edward and Llewelyn, but soon recovered its losses, towards which they were allowed 17l. 10s.† 1.54

besides a grant of a fishery on the Clwyd with one net, free from any obstruction * 1.55. On the dissolution, the house was granted to Harry ap Harry, and now belongs to John Davies, esq of Llanerch.

NEAR this place were certain lands, called Nunneland and St. Marieland† 1.56: but whether they had reference to any house of fe∣male religious, I cannot say.

THE hospital, which existed in 1281, stood between the town and Bodyryddan.

As soon as Edward I. had finished the fortifications of Rhuddlan, and filled his new town with inhabitants, he and bishop Anian II. made different petitions to the pope, to remove the see of St. Asaph to this place ‡ 1.57 They urged the solitude and insecurity of the former; its hazard from banditti; and the danger to which the body of the most glorious confessor St. Asaph was continually exposed: and the king in particular adds, the great safety of this place, by reason of the vast works he had completed. But these petitions never took effect: frustrated either by the death of the pope, or the exhortion of the archbishop of Canterbury, to rebuild the cathedral on its antient site.

A LITTLE beyond the priory I descended the bank, * 1.58 and fording the Clwyd, soon came in sight of St. Asaph. The handsome exten∣sive bridge, the little town, and the cathedral mixed with trees, form a most agreeable view. The place is seated on the slope of a pleasant eminence: the cathedral on its summit. The Clwyd

runs on the eastern side: the Elwy, a most turbulent stream; on the western: and from the last is taken the British name of Llan-Elwy. The township in which it stands, is also called Bryn-Paulin; and one part of it, Bron y Wylfa, or the brow of the watch: from which circumstances, as well as the great fitness of the situation, between two rivers, I cannot but think that it was a place of encampment of Paulinus, in his way; to or from Mona.

ITS ecclesiastical history may be spoken of with more certainty. When Kentigern, bishop of Glasgow, was driven from his see in 543, he retired into Wales, and established here a monastery for nine hundred and sixty-five monks, instituted on the same plan with that of Bangor; part for labor, part for prayer. * 1.59 Here he built a church; and having won over the British prince Maglo∣cunus, once his violent opponent, established here a see, and was himself the first bishop. Being recalled to Scotland, he nominated for successor, Asaph, or Hassaph, a Briton of great piety and good family (being grandson of Pabo pou Prydain). He died in 596, was buried in his cathedral, and gave name to the place.

THE church was first built of wood; but soon after, of stone. In 1247, during the wars of Henry III. the diocese was destroyed by fire and sword * 1.60, and the bishop, who sided with the English, obliged to live on alms. In 1282, * 1.61 the cathedral was burnt down; but ample amends was made to the see, by the grant of Edward I. of lands in Newmarket, Nannerch, Dincolyn, Cwed y Mynedd, and a rich mineral tract in Diserth: four hundred and nine acres were given, each of which appears at that time to be valued at only

six-pence * 1.62. In 1402, the church underwent new misfortunes: being burnt by Owen Glyndwr, together with the palace, and ca∣nons houses; who, strange to say! soon after brought over to his party, John Trevor, the injured bishop of the see, who was de∣prived on account of his revolt. After this, the church remained in ruins for eighty years, when it was re-built by that worthy pre∣late, Richard Redman. The same building still remains, hand∣some, plain, and neat. The present dean and chapter are now re∣building (out of a fund vested in them for that purpose) the choir, after the inevitable dilapidations of time in the space of near four hundred years. The good imitation of the gothic, and the happy copy in the east window, of the noble remains in Tintern abby, will add no small beauty to the church, and credit to the idea.

THE tombs are very few.* 1.63 Here is one in an episcopal habit, supposed to commemorate that munificent bishop, David ap Owen, who died in 1512; and in the church-yard, near the west door, is a plain altar monument of bishop Isaac Barrow, who de∣parted in 1680: and whose pious address I can read without any offence, howsoever papistical zealots may think it.

Exuviae ISAACI ASAPHENSIS Episcopi In manum Domini depositae In spem letae resurrectionis Per sola CHRISTI merita, Obiit dictus Reverendus Pater festi D. JOHANNIS BAPTISTAE. An. Dom. 1680. Aetatis 67. Et translationis suae undecimo.

O vos transeuntes in Domum Domini In Domum orationis Orate pro conservo vestro, Ut inveniat misericordiam in die Domini.

IN the church-yard of the parish-church, is another tomb, sin∣gular enough, with foliage, a shield with a lion rampant, inscribed around, Hic jacet Ranulsus de Smalwode; and beneath the shield passes a sword, held by a hand. It is said to have been brought from Rhuddian; but we are left unacquainted with the person whose memory it perpetuates * 1.64.

THIS church stands at the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the inhabitants of the town and country, the cathe∣dral not being used for that purpose.

THE members of the chapter are the dean, archdeacon, (who is the bishop) six prebendaries, and seven canons. Besides these, belong to the church, four vicars choral, four singing-men, four choristers, and an organist.

THE present palace is not very magnificent. The walls are the same with those built by bishop David ap Owen, restorer of the house, in 1503, after it had lain in ruins a hundred years.

THE diocese comprehends all Flintshire, excepting Hawarden; all Denbighshire, but the deanery of Dyffrin Clwyd; all Montgome∣ryshire, excepting seven parishes; and the hundreds of Mowddwie,

Penllyn, and Ideirnion, in Meirionyddshire: and trespasses a little even on Shropshire. The number of livings are a hundred and thirty; of which all, except seven * 1.65, are in the patronage of the bishop: as is the valuable deanery.

THE road from St. Asaph along the common called the Row, is extremely beautiful: is watered by the Elwy, which runs be∣neath lofty banks, finely wooded: at its extremity is Pont yr allt Gôch, a noble bridge of one lofty arch, eighty-five feet in dia∣meter. The Elwy here takes another direction, running west, and then north, along most romantic dingles, varied with meadows, woods, and cavernous rocks: neither is it destitute of antiquities. Y fynnon vair, or our lady's well, a fine spring, inclosed in an angu∣lar wall, formerly roofed; and the ruins of a cross-shaped cha∣pel, finely over-grown with ivy, exhibit a venerable view, in a deep wooded bottom, not remote from the bridge: and this, in days of pilgrimage, the frequent haunt of devotees.

THE most capital view of these picturesque glens, * 1.66 is from Pen∣craig, on the grounds of Mrs. Jones, of Galt-vaenan; from whence is a sight of three at once, together with an unspeakable variety of other objects, extremely worthy a visit from every traveller.

AT Llannerch, the chief seat of my kinsman, John Davies, esq formerly called Lleweni Vechan, about half a mile to the east of the bridge, I stopped a while to admire the charming view of the vale of Clwyd, with the magnificent boundary between it and Flintshire. The intervening plain is of matchless fertility: inclo∣sures creep high up the hills; the remaining part is divided into

various summirs, in the season, glowing to the setting sun with the purple flowers of the heath. Churches and neat mansions en∣liven the scene. From Tremeirchion-Green, placed high above Llannerch, is a very fine view of the whole vale, of the western ••oundary, and the lofty tract of Snowdon. The middle, from end to end, is enriched with towns and castles; among which rises supreme, the rock of Denbigh, topped with its great fortress.

IN Tremeirchion church is the mutilated tomb of Sir Robert Pounderling, before mentioned. By his crossed legs, it seems he had attained the merit of pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre.

UNDER a handsome gothic arch lies, * 1.67 in priestly vestments, well executed, the image of Dafydd Ddu, or the black of Hirad∣dug. Underneath is inscribed, Hic jacet DAVID AP RODERIC AP MADOC. He was vicar of this place, and dignitary of St. Asaph: prophet and poet; and had a great concern in regulating our prosody. The Daroganen, or prophecies of Robin Ddu, so cele∣brated in North Wales, I believe properly belong to Dafydd, who flourished in 1340, above a hundred years before the time of Robin.

IN this church stood a cross, celebrated for its miracles, which are celebrated in an owdwl, or poem, about the year 1500, by Gryffydd ap Isan ap Llen vychan. The cross is now demolished; but the carved capital is still to be seen, in a building adjoining to the church-yard.

IN the bottom, not far from Tremerchion, lies, half buried in woods, the singular house of Bachegraig. It consists of a mansion, and three sides, inclosing a square court. The first consists of a vast hall, and parlour: the rest of it rises into six wonderful sto∣ries,

including the cupola; and forms from the second floor the figure of a pyramid: the rooms small, and inconvenient. The bricks are admirable, and appear to have been made in Holland; and the model of the house was probably brought from Flanders, where this species of building was not unfrequent. The country people say, that it was built by the devil, in one night, and that the architect still preserves an apartment in it: but Sir Richard Clough, an eminent merchant in the reign of queen Elizabeth, seems to have a better title to the honor. The initials of his name are in iron on the front, with the date 1567; and on the gate-way that of 1569.

SIR Richard was a man of distinguished character, who raised himself, by his merit, from a poor boy at Denbigh, to one of the greatest merchants of his time. He was first a chorister at Chester* 1.68: then had the good fortune to become apprentice to the famous Sir Thomas Gresham; and afterwards his partner. His re∣sidence was chiefly at Antwerp, where his body was interred: his heart in Whichurch, a neighbouring church. He is said to have made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and to have been made knight of the holy sepulchre: this is confirmed; for he assumed the five crosses, the badge of that order, for his arms † 1.69. His wealth was so great, that Ese a aeth yn Glough, or He is become a CLOUGH, grew into a proverb, on the attainment of riches by any person. He left two daughters: one he bestowed, with this house, and certain tythes in Llein, on Roger Salusbury, a younger son of Llewenni: the other on a Wynne, of Melay, with whom he gave

the abby of Maenan. Sir Richard meditated great things for the advantage of his country: he designed to make the Clwyd navi∣gable from Rhuddlan; to have introduced commerce; and to have made the sides of his court the magazines, from which he was to dispense his imports to the neighboring parts.

IN front of the house, cross the Clwyd on Pont y Cambull, and, turning to the left, cross it again at Pont Gryffydd, in order to search in the parish of Bodfari, for the antient Varis. Soon enter the deep pass, formed by nature in the Clwydian hills, from the vales into the county of Flint. But neither my own examination, or that of some intelligent friends, availed any thing. The sole remaining antiquity is British; a post on a hill to the left, called Moel y Gaer, or the hill of the camp. The beauty of the ride makes amends for the disappointment. The vale is narrow, fer∣tile, diversified with groves, and watered by the crystal Wheeler. The part about Maes mynan is singularly fine, consisting of de∣tached hills, cloathed with timber; a charming extent of mea∣dows; and the lofty mountain Moel y pare, skirted with trees, contrasting; itself to the softer part of the scenery. This place is at present the property of Sir Roger Mostyn, purchased by one of his family from the Messies, a name which represented the county of Flint as early as the first of queen Mary* 1.70. This place has been called Llys Maes Mynan, or the palace of Maes Mynan, where Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, last prince of Wales, resided in a house, whose foundations, till within these few years, were to be seen in an adjacent meadow† 1.71.

BUT there is no part of this vale that furnished me with the lest vestige of the Roman station, Varis, mentioned by Antonine, in his eleventh Iter. and placed at nineteen or twenty-one miles distant from Conovium, or Caer-hên; for there appears an uncer∣tainty in the reading.

QUIT the turnpike road on the left; ford the Wheler; and, after crossing the Clwyd, reach Lleweni. On this spot is said to have resided, about the year 720, Marchweithian, one of the fifteen tribes or nobility of North Wales. At present it is the seat of the honorable Thomas Fitzmaurice, lately purchased by him from Sir Robert Salusbury Cotton, baronet, of Cumbermere-Abby, in Cheshire. That gentleman possessed this place by the marriage of his an∣cestor, Sir Robert Cotton, with Hester, sister to Sir John Salusbury, the last baronet of his name, in the time of Charles II. The Salusburies were an English family, settled here before the time of Henry III. Several of the portraits were transferred with the estate, to the present owner, and preserved in the magnificent old hall. Sir John Salusbury the Strong,* 1.72 is represented on board, a half length, with short dusky hair, beardless, in a yellow figured jac∣ket, a vast ruff, and one hand on his sword: dated 1591: aet. 24. He succeeded to the estate on the execution of his elder brother Thomas,* 1.73 who suffered in 1586, for his concern in Babington's plot. A picture, supposed to be his, is to be seen here; representing him in a grey and black vest, dark hair, short whiskers, bushy beard, and with an ear-ring: his bonnet in his hand; his breast naked.

SIR Henry,* 1.74 the first baronet, is placed sitting in his shirt; his bosom naked: over one arm is cast a red mantle: his breeches red, with points at his knees; his stockings purple; his slippers

rich in lace; his beard bushy; his whiskers small: he is seated in a balcony, as if at his toilet. I have seen here a fine picture of his eldest son, Sir Thomas,* 1.75 as much distinguished by his pen as his sword. He appears as if on the point of quitting his family, to join the army; for he was a distinguished loyalist in the time of Charles I. He is taking leave of his lady and three children; is dressed in a buff surtout, brown boots, with a rich scymetar by his side; attended by two grehounds, a groom, dressed in a long canvas gown, holding a horse, with the arms of the house on the man's shoulders, by way of badge. This gentleman was edu∣cated at Jesus College, Oxford: and having, as Wood* 1.76 says, a na∣tural geny to poetry and romance, exercised himself much in those juvenile studies; and produced from his pen, the History of Joseph, in English verse, in thirteen chapters. He retired to Lleweni; and died in 1643.

I MUST not omit the portrait of a lady,* 1.77 exceedingly celebrated in this part of Wales; the famous Catherine Tudor, better known by the name of Catherine of Berain, from her seat in this neigh∣borhood. She was daughter and heiress of Tudor ap Robert Fychan, of Berain: she took for her first husband John Salusbury, heir of Lleweni; and on his death gave her hand to Sir Richard Clough. The tradition goes, that at the funeral of her beloved spouse, she was led to church by Sir Richard, and from church by Morris Wynne, of Gwedir, who whispered to her his wish of being her second: she refused him with great civility, informing him, that she had accepted the proposals of Sir Richard, in her way to

church; but assured him (and was as good as her word) that in case she performed the same sad duty (which she was then about) to the knight, he might depend on being her third. From this match I have the honor of some of Catherine's blood in my veins. As soon as she had composed this gentleman, to shew that she had no superstition about the number THREE, she concluded with Ed∣ward Thelwal, of Plas y Ward, esq departed this life August 27; and was interred at Llanivydd on the 1st of September, 1591.

HER portrait is an excellent three-quarters, on wood. The plate represents the dress. By the date, 1568, it seems to have been painted by Lucas de Heere; the only artist which I know of in that period, equal to the performance. I was told, that in the locket she wore to the gold chain, was the hair of her second and favorite husband.

Lleweni, notwithstanding it lies on a flat, has most pleasing views of the mountains on each side of the vale: the town and castle of Denbigh form most capital objects, at the distance of two miles: and the nearer environs of the place, promise to animate die country by the commercial spirit of their active master.

David, brother of our last Llewelyn, makes great complaints of the havock made by Reginald de Grey, justice of Chester, in cutting down his wood of Lleweni* 1.78; which David probably held as lord of Denbigh.

ABOUT a mile and a half west of this house, visit the church of Whitchurch, or St. Marcellus, the parish church of Denbigh. In the porch, a small brass shews, kneeling at an altar, Richard Mid∣delton (governor of Denbigh castle under Edward VI. Mary, and

Elizabeth) who, with Jane his wife, was interred beneath. Be∣hind him are nine sons: behind her seven daughters. He died in 1575: she in 1565. His virtues are rehearsed in the following quaint lines:

In vayn we bragg and boast of blood, in vayne of sinne we vaunte, Syth flesh and blood must lodge at last where nature did us graunte. So where he lyeth that lyved of late with love and favour muche, To fynde his friend, to feel his foes, his country skante had suche. When lyff did well reporte his death, whose death hys lyff doth trye, And poyntes with fynger what he was that here in claye doth lye. His virtues shall enroll his actes, his tombe shall tell his name, His sonnes and daughters left behind, shall blaze on Erth his fame. Look under feete and you shall fynde, upon the stone yow stande, The race he ranne, the lyff he lead, each with an upright hand.

SEVERAL of the sons were men of distinguished characters. The third, William, was a sea captain, and an eminent poet. His early education was at Oxford: but his military turn led him abroad, where he signalized himself as soldier and sailor. He translated the psalms into Welsh metre, and finished them on Jan. 4th, 1595, apud Scutum insulam occidentalium Indorum; which, as well as his Barddoniaeth, or art of Welsh poetry, were published in London: the first in 1603, the other in 1593* 1.79. It is sayed, that he, with captain Thomas Price, of Plâsyollin, and one captain Koet, were the first who smoked, or (as they called it) drank tobacco pub∣lickly in London; and that the Londoners flocked from all parts to see them† 1.80. Pipes were not then invented, so they used the

twisted leaves, or segars. The invention is usually ascribed to Sir Walter Raleigh. It may be so; but he was too good a courtier to smoke in public, especially in the reign of James, who even condescended to write a book against the practice, under the title of The Counter-blast to Tobacco.

Thomas, the fourth son, became lord mayor of London, and was the founder of the family of Chirkcastle. It is recorded, that having married a young wife in his old age, the famous song of Room for cuckolds, here comes my lord mayor! was invented on the occasion* 1.81.

Charles, the fifth son, succeeded his father in the government of Denbigh castle.

I NOW speak of the sixth son, Hugh; a person whose useful life would give lustre to the greatest family. This gentleman (after∣wards Sir Hugh) displayed very early his great talents; and began, as we are told by himself, by searching for coal within a mile of his native place. His attempt did not meet with success: his genius was destined to act on a greater stage. The Capital af∣forded him ample space for his vast attempts: few readers need be told, that he planned and brought to perfection, the great de∣sign of supplying the city with water. This plan was meditated in the reign of Elizabeth; but no one was found bold enough to attempt it. In 1608, the dauntless WELSHMAN stept forth, and SMOTE THE ROCK: and on Michaelmas 1613, the waters flowed into the thirsting metropolis. He brought it, in defiance of hills and vallies, reckoning every winding, near thirty-nine miles; conveyed it by aqueducts in some places; in others pierced the

high grounds, and gave it a subterraneous course. He was a true prototype of the later genius of similar works; but he sacrificed private fortune to the public good. Two thousand pounds a month, which he gained from the Cardiganshire mines, were swallowed up in this river* 1.82. He received the empty honor of seeing himself attended by the king, his court, and all the corpo∣ration of London, among whom was his brother (designed mayor for the ensuing year). The waters gushed out in their presence, and the great architect received their applause, and knighthood; and, in 1622, the title of baronet. His own fair fortune being expended on an undertaking, which now brings in to the pro∣prietors an amazing revenue, he was reduced to become a hireling surveyor, and was eminently useful in every place where draining or mining was requisite. I shall have occa∣sion to speak of some other of his labors in the course of this book. He died in 1631† 1.83. Sir — Myddelton, the last baronet of this branch of the family, died a few years ago. The present representative is a widow in distressful circumstances: Sir Hugh left a certain number of shares to the Goldsmith's company, to be divided among the poor members; but, as the husband of this poor woman happened not to be of the company, the repre∣sentative of the greatest benefactor London ever had, is, I trust through ignorance of her case, permitted to linger away her days in cruel penury.

A MURAL monument needlessly attempts to preserve the me∣mory of that great antiquary,* 1.84 Humphrey Llwyd. He is repre∣sented in a Spanish dress, kneeling at an altar, beneath a range of

small arches; above, a multitude of quarterings proclame his long descent. He derived himself from the Rosendales of the north, who settled at Foxhall, in this neighborhood, in 1297, by marriage with the heiress of the place. He himself was of a branch, which fixed at Denbigh. He was educated at Oxford, a commoner of Brazen-nose college, and master of arts. He re∣turned to his native place, an accomplished gentleman. He stu∣died at the university the healing art; but is celebrated as a per∣son of great eloquence, an excellent rhetorician, and sound philo∣sopher. After the panegyric passed on him by Cambden, it would be presumptious to add any thing relative to his great skill in the antiquities of our country. He practised, for his amusement, physic and music. The motto on his portrait, in possession of his representative John Lloyd, of Aston, esq expresses his liberal turn of mind: Hwy pery klod Nagolyd; FAME IS BETTER THAN WEALTH. In medicine, and the study of antiquities, he has left several proofs of his knowlege, which seems to have been quite unconfined. He made the map of England, for his friend Ortelius. For his bro∣ther-in-law, lord Lumley, (whose sister he married) he formed a large collection of useful and curious books; which were after∣wards purchased by James I. and now make the most valuable part of the British Museum* 1.85. In his last letter to the great geo∣grapher Ortelius† 1.86, he foresees his own death, which happened soon after its date, in August 1568, aged 41. The very simple inscription on the monument promises his character; but instead, appears only three lines of a psalm tune.

THE CORPS AND EARTHLY shape doth rest, Here tombd in your sight, Of Humfrey Lloyd, M^r of Arte, a famous worthy Wight. By fortune's hapye Lore he Espowsyd and take hys wyfe to be Barbara, second Syster to the noble Lord Lumle: Splendian, Hare, Jane, and John, Humfrey, Also a Lumley, His Children were, of whych be dead Jane and eke Humfrey. His famous Monuments and dedes that lusteth for to see, Here in the Epytaph annext set forth at large they Be.

THE tomb of Sir John Salusbury is altar-shaped: his image, and that of his lady, are placed in it, recumbent; he in armour; she with a great ruff. Nothing is recorded of this good couple, except that Sir John died in 1578; and that ten years after she erected this monument to his memory, and I suppose to her own, a blank being left for the year and day of her departure.

A LITTLE further stands Denbigh, placed, like Sterling, on the slope of a great rock, crowned with a castle. Its antient British name was Castell Kled vryn yn Rhôs, or the Craggy Hill in Rhos, the former name of the tract in which it is seated. The word Dinbech, the present Welsh appellation, signifies a small hill, which it is, comparative to the neighboring mountains. The first time I find any mention of it, is in the beginning of the reign of Edward I. from whom David, in defiance of his brother Llewelyn, chose to hold this lordship, together with the cantred of Dyffryn Clwyd* 1.87. He made it his residence till the conquest of our country; soon after which, he was taken near the place, and car∣ried, loaden with irons, to the English monarch at Rhuddlan.

THE king politically secured his new acquisitions, by bestowing several of the great lordships on his followers. He gave that of

Denbigh to Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln, who built the castle, and inclosed within a wall the small town he found there. Among other priveleges, he gave his vassals liberty of killing and destroy∣ing all manner of wild beasts on the lordship, except in certain parts reserved out of the grant; I suppose for the purpose of the particular amusement of the lord* 1.88; for I find, in the reign of Henry VI. the names of five parks in this lordship, viz. Moylewike, Caresnodooke, Kylford, Bagh^ā, and Posey, of which the king consti∣tuted Owen Tudor, ranger. On the death of Lacy, the lordship passed to Thomas earl of Lancaster, by virtue of his marriage with Alicia, daughter of the last possessor. After the attainder of Tho∣mas, Edward II. bestowed it on Hugh D'Espencer; who proved an oppressive superior, and abridged the inhabitants of the priveleges granted to them by Lacy† 1.89. By the fatal end of that favorite, it fell again to the crown; and was given by Edward III. to ano∣ther, equally unfortunate, Roger Mortimer earl of March; whose death enabled the king to invest with this lordship William Moun∣tacute earl of Salusbury. He died in 1333: and on the reversal of the attainder of the earl of March, it was restored to his family, in the perfon of his grandson Roger: and by the marriage of Anne, sister to another Roger, last earl of March, with Richard Plantagenet earl of Cambridge, it came into the house of York, and so into the crown. Queen Elizabeth, in 1563, bestowed it, as a most valuable gift, on her unmerited minion, Robert Dudley earl of Leicester; who soon made the country feel the weight of his oppression. Notwithstanding the tenants made him a present of

two thousand pounds at his first entrance into the lordship, he re∣mained unsatisfied; he constrained the freeholders to raise the old rents of 250 l. a year, to 8 or 900 l.* 1.90 and at his will inclosed the waste lands, to the injury of the tenants; who, offended at his ra∣pacity, arose, and levelled his encroachments. This was con∣strued into riot and rebellion: two hopeful young men, of the house of Lleweni, were taken to Shrewsbury, tried and executed there, for the pretended offence. He had the insolence even to mortgage the manor to some merchants of London† 1.91; and, I ap∣prehend, tricked them for their credulity. The various disor∣ders which rose from these practices, were so great, that Eliza∣beth interposed, and by charter confirmed the quiet possession of the tenants, and allayed the discontents‡ 1.92. These were again excited in die reign of king William, by the vast grant made to the earl of Portland. The same ferments arose, and the same means were used to allay them: at present, this, and the other great manors of Bromefield and Yale, remain in the crown, and are peacefully superintended by a steward appointed by the king.

THE castle and inclosed part of the town, took up a very consi∣derable space, and were defended by strong walls and towers: the last are chiefly square. There are two gates to the outmost pre∣cinct: that called the Burgesses Tower,* 1.93 is large, square, and built singularly, with small ashler stones. The other was called the Exchequer Gate, in which the lord's court was kept. Some few houses, with most beautiful views, are at present inhabited in this

part. Leland says, that there had been divers rows of streets; but in his time there were scarcely eighty housholders within these walls. Here stands the chapel, called St. Hillary's, formerly be∣longing to the garrison, now the place of worship for the town. In old times, on every Sunday here were masses for the souls of Lacy and Percy* 1.94. Not far from it are the remains of an unfi∣nished church, a hundred and seventy-five feet long, and seventy-one broad, and designed to have been supported by two rows of pillars. This noble building was begun in 1579, as appears by the date on a foundation-stone. It was to this purpose; for at present it is much defaced:

1^mo Martii 1579 Et Regni Re: Elizabethae 22. W.

ON the other side appeared,

Veritas, vita, via. Duo sunt templa Dei. Unu mudus I. ein: est Pontifex primogenties ejus verbu Dei: Alterum rationalis anima: cujus sacerdos est verus homo.

G. A.† 1.95

THIS church was begun under the auspices of Leicester:* 1.96 but it is said that he left off his buildings in Wales, by reason of the public hatred he had incurred on account of his tyranny‡ 1.97. A sum was afterwards collected, in order to complete the work;

but it is said, that when the earl of Essex passed through Denbigh, on his Irish expedition, he borrowed the money destined for the purpose, which was never repayed; and by that means, the church was left unfinished* 1.98.

THE Castle crowns the summit of the hill,* 1.99 one side of which is quite precipitous. The entrance is very magnificent, beneath a gothic arch, over which is the statue of Henry Lacy, sitting in stately flowing robes. On each side of the gate-way stood a large octagonal tower. The breaches in it are vast and awful: they serve to discover the antient manner of building: a double wall appears to have been built, with a great vacancy between, into which was poured all forts of rubbish, stone, and hot mortar, which time consolidated to a stony hardness. This part, as Leland says, was never completed, the work having been deserted by the earl, on the loss of his eldest son, who was accidentally drowned in the well, whose opening is still to be seen in the castle-yard. Charles I. lay here on the 23d of September, 1645, after his retreat from Chester, in a tower still called Siamber y Brenbin, or the King's Tower.

THE prospect through the broken arches is extremely fine, ex∣tending in parts over the whole vale, and all its eastern hills, from Moel Venlli to Diserth rock; a rich view, but deficient in water: the river Clwyd being too small to be seen; and in great rains so furious, as to overflow a great space of the meadowy tract.

LELAND relates a particular of this fortress, which I do not dis∣cover in any other historian: he says, that Edward IV. was be∣sieged in it; and that he was permitted to retire, on condition

[figure]

DENBIGH CASTLE

that he should quit the kingdom for ever. The only time in which that prince was constrained to abdicate his dominions, was in 1470, when he took shipping at Lynn; not by reason of any capitulation with his enemies, but through the desperate situation of his affairs at that period.

fasper Tudor, earl of Pembroke, had, in the year 1459, possessed this place, and several others in the principality, in behalf of his weak half-brother, Henry VI.* 1.100 but they were wrested from him by the Yorkists in the following year. In 1468 he returned, was joined by two thousand Welsh, and burnt the town† 1.101; meditating rather revenge than conquest.

IN the beginning of November 1645, the parlement army ob∣tained, near this town, a most important victory over the royalists. The latter,* 1.102 under the command of Sir William Vaughan, had formed a considerable body of forces, Welsh and Irish, with a de∣sign of marching to the relief of Chester, then besieged: Sir Wil∣liam Brereton had notice of the design, and immediately detached that able officer Mytton, and under him colonel Jones and colonel Louthian, with one thousand four hundred horse, and a thousand foot, to frustrate the plan. Mytton did his duty, attacked the royalists with vigor, and after several hot engagements, totally routed them, took five hundred horse and four hundred foot, killed one hundred, and so entirely dispersed them, as not to leave a hundred together in one place‡ 1.103.

In 164,* 1.104 we find the castle garrisoned by the loyalists: its go∣vernor

was colonel William Salusbury, of Bachymbyd, commonly called Salusbury Hosandu Gleisiau, or Blue Stockings. The siege was begun under the conduct of major-general Mytton, about the 16th of July* 1.105; but such was the gallant defence of the besieged, that it was not surrendered till the 3d of November, and then only on the most honorable conditions† 1.106. It is very remarkable, that notwithstanding the orders of fallen majesty, in June, for the ge∣neral surrender of every garrison in England and Wales, on fair and honorable terms, yet the first which yielded in North Wales, held out above two months longer than the last English castle.

THE priory of Carmelites,* 1.107 or White Friars, stood at the bottom of the town. It was founded by John Salusbury, of Lleweni, who died, as appeared from a mutilated brass, found in the conventual church, on the 7th of March, 1289‡ 1.108. Speed ascribes the building to one John de Sunimore, in 1399; but the inscription fixes the honor on Salusbury. On the dissolution, this house was granted to Richard Andreas and William L'Isle. The church, now con∣verted into a barn, is the only remaining building: it was the burying-place of the family of the founder, till the reformation; and some of their tombs were to be seen here within memory of man.

THE present town covers great part of the slope of the hill;* 1.109 and some streets extend along the plain. Its manufactures in shoes and gloves are very considerable; and great quantities are

annually sent to London, to the great warehouses of the Capital, and for the purposes of exportation.

THE constitution of this borough, and its origin, will be fully explained by the following transcript, communicated to me by one of its burgesses. It begins with citing the last charter,* 1.110 which is that granted by king Charles II. which recites letters patent granted by queen Elizabeth, and dated at Westminster the 20th of June, in the thirty-ninth year of her reign; in which the said queen recites, "That seeing Edward I. by his letters patent, dated at Northampton the 29th of August, in the eighteenth year of his reign, hath granted to Henry de Lacy, earl of Lincoln, that all his men then inhabiting his town of Denbigh, or that should for ever inhabit it, through all his territories, formerly belonging to the king of Wales, and also through the counties of Chester, Salop, Stafford, Gloucester, Worcester, and Hereford, should be free and ac∣quitted for ever from all toll, stallage, payage, panage, murage, pontage, and passage; and seeing also king Edward III. by his letters patent, dated at York the 27th of October, in the sixth year of his reign, hath, for himself, and his heirs and successors, then inha∣biting, and afterward to inhabit, the said town, should, through the kingdom and dominions, be free and acquitted from all such toll, stallage, payage, murage, pontage, and passage; and seeing also that Richard II. by his letters patent, dated at Westminster the 22d of February, in the second year of his reign, granted to the abovesaid men, that the aforesaid town of Denbigh, and half a mile compass about the town, should be a free borough, and that the men inhabiting, and afterwards to inhabit, should be free bur∣gesses; and seeing also that Richard III. by his letters, dated at

Westminster the 10th of December, in the second year of his reign, confirmed the aforesaid grants, and by his said letters patent did grant unto the said burgesses, their heirs and assigns, being English∣men, common of pasture for all manner of cattle, at all times in the year, in the common pasture of the town and forest of Lleweney; and that the burgesses aforesaid, and their heirs and assigns, should be free and acquitted, in all his dominions and territories in England and Ireland, soc, sac, toll, and them, lastage, stallage, payage, pannage, pontage, murage, and other customs whatsoever. And the aforesaid queen Elizabeth, by her said letters patent, did ordain, constitute, grant, and confirm, that the town and borough of Denbigh may extend, on every side, one mile and a half, according to the common acceptations of that place, from the high cross standing in the market-place of the said town; and that the said town and borough of itself, and the burgesses of the said borough, now and hereafter in being, be, and shall be for ever hereafter, one body corporate and politick, in things, fact, and name, by the name of "THE ALDERMEN, BAILIFFS, and BURGESSES of the borough of Denbigh;" and it is also ordained, that there be a common seal for transacting of any causes or businesses; and also ordained, that there be two aldermen, two bailiffs, and two coro∣ners, and twenty-five of the better sort and best reputed of the bur∣gesses, to be capital burgesses and counsellors of the said borough.

"THE aldermen and bailiffs are elected and nominated upon Michaelmas-day, yearly. There are two other officers, called ser∣jeants at mace (or mace-bearers) for the execution of processes and mandates issuing out of the court of the said borough; they are appointed by the bailiffs of the said borough for the time being.

"THERE is also a recorder of the said borough, who is appointed by the aldermen, bailiffs, and capital burgesses.

"CONSTABLES, leavelookers, and other inferior officers, are likewise appointed by the aldermen, bailiffs, and capital burgesses.

"THERE is a council chamber, or guild, within the said borough, for the purpose of holding and sitting courts of convocation, be∣fore the aldermen, bailiffs, and capital burgesses.

"THERE is a court of record, to be held every other Friday through the year, before the bailiffs of the said borough, or one of them; and in that court, by complaint made in it, they may hold all and all manner of pleas, actions, suits, demands of all sorts of transgressions vi et armis, or otherwise; and also all and all manner of debts, accompts, bargains, frauds, detaining of deeds, writings, muniments, and taking and detaining of beasts and cat∣tle, or goods; and all contracts whatsoever, arising within the said borough; and that such pleas, suits, and actions, be heard and terminated before the bailiffs, or one of them.

"THE aldermen are justices, and hold quarter sessions, in the same manner as county sessions are held by statute, to hear and deter∣mine causes; but not to proceed in case of death, or loss of life or limb.

"No country justice to intermeddle with any matters or things whatsoever, appertaining to the office of justice of the peace, which shall arise or happen within the borough.

"RESIANT burgesses are to serve upon jury at the sessions. "THE aldermen and bailiffs are commissioners of array. "THE resiant burgesses are voters for a member for the borough."

I CANNOT but record the virtue of those of the year 1572, who

had the courage to withstand the insinuations, the promises, and the threats, of as unprincipled a lord as this kingdom was ever afflicted with; who had power to inflict, and will to execute, any vengeance that opposition to his arbitrary inclinations might excite. In that year it was his pleasure that one Henry Dynne should represent this borough in parlement; the burgesses were refractory, and chose another person; which gave rise to the fol∣lowing letter, which I print, as a sans pareille.

A L^re sent from the earle of Leicester to the bayliffe, aldermen, and burgesses, greatlie blaminge them for making choise of the burges of the parliament without his lordship's consente, and commanding them to allter their electione, and to chose Henrie Dynne.

I HAVE bene latlie advertised how small consideration youe have had of the L^re I wrote unto you, for the nomynasion, of yo^r burgess, whereat as I cannot but greatlie mervayle (in re∣spect I am yo^r L. and you my Tenaunts, as also the manie good tournes and comodities w^ch I have bene allwayes willinge to pro∣cure youe, for the benefitte of yo^r whole state) so do I take the same in so —, and vill yte so unthankfullie, as yf youe do not uppon receite hereof presentlie revoke the same, and appointe suche one as I shall nominate, namelie, Henrie Dynne, be ye well assured never to loke for any ffrienshipe or favo^r at my hande, in any yo^r affayres herafter; not for any great accompt I make of the thinge, but for that I would not it shou'd be thought that I have so small regard borne me at yo^r hands, who are bounden to owe (as yo^r L.) thus much dutie as to know myne advice and

pleasure; that will haplie be aleadged, that yo^r choice was made before the receipt of my L^res (in relie I would litle have thoughte that youe would have bene so forgetfull, or rather carelesse of me, as before yo^r elecion not to make me privie therto, or at the least to have some desire of myne advise therein (havinge tyme ynoughe so to do) but as you have of yo^r selfes thus rashlie pro∣ceded herein, without myne assent, soe have I thought good to signifie unto youe, that I mean not to take it in any wise at yo^r hands, and therefore wysh you more advisedlie to consider hereof, and to deale with me as maye continue my fav^r towards you, otherwise loke for no fav^r at my hands: and so fare ye well. From the Court, this last day of Aprill, 1572.

R. LEYCESTER.

THIS doughty letter had no effect: the burgesses adhered to their own choice, and Richard Candishe, gent. stands as member for Denbigh in that year* 2.1. Leicester did but copy his mistress in his contempt of privelege of parlements: Elizabeth thought them the mere instruments of giving sanction to her will: for if they once presumed to oppose it, she without ceremony informed them of her displeasure. Peter Wentworth, for the simple proposition,

that a member of parlement might, without controlment of his person, or danger of the laws, by bill or speech, utter any of the griefs of this commonwealth whatsoever, touching the service of GOD, the safety of the prince, and this noble realm,

was sent to the tower; and to the petition of the house for his release, an answer was returned, that it was very unfit for her majesty to give

any account of her actions. Her prerogative was the rule of go∣vernment: the great council was expressly forbidden to meddle in matters of state, or in causes ecclesiastical* 2.2: and this was the GOLDEN REIGN of ELIZABETH!

FROM Denbigh I went to the hospitable house of Gwaenynog, about two miles distant, fronted by the most majestic oaks in our principality. The fine wooded dingles belonging to the demesne are extremely well worth visiting: they are most judiciously cut into walks by the owner, John Myddelton, esq and afford as beautiful scenery in their kind, as any we have to boast. Moel Vamma superbly terminates one view; and the ruins of Denbigh Castle burst awfully at the termination of the concluding path.

IN rummaging over the family papers of this house, I met with an anecdote of it, too singular to be suppressed. It will prove at left, that private morals, and respect to the laws, were in that distant period but in a very low state; for no notice seems to have been taken of so atrocious an offence. The criminal en∣joyed the favor of the crown, in common with others its peaceful subjects.

David Myddelton, who is styled receiver of Denbigh in the nine∣teenth of Edward IV. and Valectus Coronae Dⁿⁱ Regis, in the second of Richard III. made his addresses to Elyn, daughter of Sir John Done, of Utkinton, in Cheshire, and gained the lady's affections; but the parents preferred their relation, Richard Done, of Croton. The marriage was accordingly celebrated; which David having notice of, watched the groom leading his bride out of church,

killed him on the spot, and then carried away his mistress, and married her the same day; so that she was a maid, widow, and wife twice, in one day. From Roger, the eldest son of the match, descended the Myddeltons of this place.

I MENTION Thomas Myddelton, another of his progeny, only to prove, that the custom of the Irish howl, or Scotch Coranich, was in use among us; for we are told he was buried cum magno dolore et clamore cognatorum et propinquorum omnium.

HAVING made Gwaenynog my head quarters for this neighbor∣hood, I one day visited from thence Henllan, the parish church of these parts; remarkable for the schism between church and steeple: the first having retreated into the bottom, the last maintains its sta∣tion on the top of the hill. The church is covered with shingles; a species of roof almost obsolete. St. Sadwrn, or St. Saturnus, cotem∣porary to St. Wenefrede, has it under his protection. Here was interred Sir Peter Mutton, knight, descended from Richard Mutton, of Rhuddlan, and Elen, daughter to John (Aer Hên) Conway, of Bod∣rhyddan. Sir Peter, as his epitaph informs us, was chief justice of North Wales, a matter in chancery, prothonatory, and clerk of the crown. He died November the 4th, 1637. He had the ho∣nor of representing the borough of Caernarvon; and once occa∣sioned much diversion to the house, by asserting, in one of his speeches, "that he remembered fourteen years before he was he was born, &c. &c." But he was a good judge, made a fair fortune, and by marriage acquired the estate of Llanerch, which passed with his daughter to Robert Davies, of Gwysaney, esq ancestor of the present owner.

NOT far from Henllan church, in the parish of Llan-nefydd, on

the bank of the brook Meirchion, are the remains of a seat of Me∣reddydd ap Meirchion, or Merach y Meirch, lord of Isdulas. Part is now standing, particularly the chapel, which serves for a farm∣house; but some very extensive foundations shew its former im∣portance.

FROM hence, after a ride of a few miles, I reached Dyffryn Al∣led, or the vale of the river Alled, a very narrow tract, bounded by high hills, and of late ornamented by the magnificent seat built by Mrs. Meyric. At the head of the valley stand the village and church of Llansannan, dedicated to St. Sannan, confessor and hermit; descended (for our very saints boast of their pedegree) from antient parentage, near the territory of the father of St. We∣nefrede, with whom he maintained strict friendship. Their re∣mains were both enterred at Gwytherin; to which place, though unworthy, I resolved on an immediate pilgrimage.

IN my way, I descended a very steep wooded dell, in the town∣ship of Penared, to visit the gloomy cataract of Llyn yr ogo, where the Alled tumbles into a horrible black cavern, overshaded by oaks. Somewhat higher up is another, exposed to full day, falling from a vast height, and dividing the naked glen. Llyn-Alled, the small lake from which the river flows, lies at a small distance, amidst black and heathy mountains, through which runs much of the road to Gwytherin.

THAT little village and church stand on a bank, at the head of a small vale, near the rise of the Elwy. The church is celebrated for the honor of having first received the remains of St. Winefrede,* 2.3 after her second death. On the decease of St. Beuno, she was warned by a voice to call on St. Deifer at Bodvari; by St. Deifer

she was directed to go to St. Saturnus, at Henllan; and by St. Sa∣turnus, to seek a final retreat with St. Elerius, at Gwytherin. Hi∣ther she repaired, found a convent of nuns, received the veil from the saint, and, on the death of the abbess Theonia, succeeded to the high charge. St. Wenefrede died on the 3d of November, and rested here in quiet, near the body of her predecessor, for the space of five hundred years. By reason of a miracle, wrought, as was supposed, by her intercession, on a monk of Shrewsbury, the abbot determined on the translation of her remains to their mo∣nastery.* 2.4 Seven holy men were deputed: the inhabitants of Gwytherin refused to part with such a treasure: visions deter∣mined the former to persist in their request: and at length, on the declaration of the will of heaven, by another vision, to the parson of Gwytherin, who declared to his flock the impiety of far∣ther resistance, the reliques were delivered up, and carried with triumph to their place of destination* 2.5 The prior at this time was Robert. Mr. William Mytton† 2.6 calls him Pennant. If he was of the neighborhood of Holywell, I do not wonder he was so anxious about the remains of his countrywoman, which he knew could not fail enriching his house, by virtue of the miracle-craft so frequent in that age.

IN the church is shewn the box in which her reliques were kept, before their removal to Shrewsbury. Here is also an antient grave∣stone, with a flowery cross and chalice (the last denoting the

priestly profession of the deceased) with Hic jacet Llowarch Mab Cadell, inscribed on the cross.

THE Saint's Chapel, Capell Gwenfrewi, is now totally destroyed: it stood on the south side of the church; but nothing remains: except some slight ditches and foundations.

ON the north side of the church-yard stand four rude upright stones. On one is rudely cut an inscription, for which I refer to the supplemental plates.

IN my return, I followed the course of the Elwy, by Havodynos, the seat of Howel Lloyd, esq by the church and village of Llangerniew; by Garthewin, the seat of Robert Wynn, esq command∣ing a most lovely view of a fertile little valley, bounded by hills covered with hanging woods; and by Llanvair Dôlhaearn, a vil¦lage and church at a small distance above the conflux of the Elwy and Alled. In this parish above the Elwy, was one of the resi∣dences of Hedd Molwynog, descended from RODERIC THE GREAT king of all Wales.* 2.7 A large moat, called Yr Hén Llys, marks th•• place: as the field, styled Maes y Bendithion, does the spot wher the poor received his alms* 2.8. Molwynog was chief of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales; was cotemporary with David a•• Owen Gwynedd; and assisted that prince to carry fire and swor•• through England, even to the walls of Coventry. A descendant •••• his third son, Gwrgi, peopled North Wales with Llwyds; so Bleyddyn, the son of Bleyddyn Vychan, assuming the addition •••• Llwyd, or the Grey, founded the house of Havodynos. Among hi•• good deeds must be told, that to him is owing the stone bridge 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Llansanan.

I HOPE my countrymen will not grow indignant, when I ex∣press my fears, that in very early times we were as fierce and sa∣vage as the rest of Europe: and they will bear this the better, when they reflect, that they keep pace with it in civilization, and in the progress of every fine art. We cannot deny but that we were, to the excess,

Jealous in honor, sudden and quick in quarrel.

Two gentlemen of this house exemplify the assertion.* 2.9 Meiric ap Bleyddyn, resentful of the injuries which he and his tenants re∣ceived from the English judges and officers) slew one of the first, and hanged several of the latter on the oaks of his woods; by which he forfeited to the crown the lands, still known in these parts by the name of Têr Meiric Llwyd, or the estate of Meiric Llwyd* 2.10. As to his person, he secured it within the sanctuary at Hulston† 2.11; and marrying, founded in that neighborhood the house of Llwyn y Maen.

Bleyddyn Vychan, another of this race, fell out with his tenants, and in a fit of fury chased them from his estate, and turned it into a forest‡ 2.12; a pretty picture of the manners of the times! The place lies in the parish of Llansanan, and bears the name of Forest to this day.

RETURNED to Gwaenynog, and passing beneath Denbigh Castle, visit Llanrhaider, a village in the middle of the vale, remarkable for an east window of good and very entire painted glass, ex∣pressing

a favorite subject of the time, the root of Jesse. The pa∣triarch is represented sprawling at the bottom, with a genealogi∣cal tree issuing out of him, containing all the kings of Israel and Juda, up to our SAVIOUR. The branches around the kings are in very beautiful foliage: at the top is a rose of Lancaster, and ano∣ther with an eye in glory within it: the window being done in 1533, after the accession of that house. Here, in a vast monu∣ment of Maurice Jones, of Llanrhaider, esq may be seen

Eternal buckle take in Parian stone.

His figure is lying down, leaning on his arm, in his gown, with his wig in excellent curl, and surrounded by weeping genii, and much funebrial absurdity.

IN the church-yard is a common altar-tomb of a gentleman, who chose to build his fame on the long series of ancestors which distinguished his from vulgar clay. It tells us, that

HEARE LYETH THE BODY OF JOHN, AP ROBERT, OF PORTH, AP DAVID, AP GRIFFITH, AP DAVID VAUCHAN. AP BLETHYN, AP GRIFFITH, AP MEREDITH, AP JERWORTH, AP LLEWELYN, AP JERORH, AP HEILIN, AP COWRYD, AP CADVAN, AP ALAWGWA, AP CADELL, THE KING OF POWYS, WHO DEPARTED HIS LIFE THE XX DAY OF MARCH, IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD GOD 1642, AND OF HIS AGE XCV.

ON an eminence to the north-west of the church, called Cader Gwladus, or Gwladus's* 2.13 Chair, is an extremely beautiful view of the vale between Denbigh and Ruthin, * 2.14 and the whole breadth chequered with wood, meadows, and corn fields; and almost the whole range of the eastern limits soaring far above it. Denbigh Castle from hence shews itself to great advantage, with its walls and towers extending along its precipitous base.

AT the foot of this rising is Fynnon Ddysnog, a fine spring, de∣dicated to St. Ddysnog, one of our long pedegreed faints; for∣merly much resorted to by votaries. The fountain is inclosed in an angular wall, decorated with small human figures; and before is the well for the use of the pious bathers.

NEAR this are some comfortable alms-houses for eight widows, founded by Mrs. Jones, of Llanrhaider (a Bagot) in 1729: and each has her garden, and two shillings a week.

HERE the diocese of Bangor encroaches on that of St. Asaph, and takes out of it the beautiful parish of Llanrhaider, and all the upper end of the vale.

ON the road to Ruthin, on an estate of Sir William Bagot, are to be seen some very fine chesnut trees;* 2.15 one of which is near twenty-four feet in circumference. The reader need not be told, that this species of trees is not a native of Great Britain, nor even of Europe. We are indebted for it to the Romans, who probably first planted it in Kent, where it has been fo fully naturalized, as to form, in certain tracts, great woods; in other parts of the kingdom, it every where appears cultivated; as sparingly as it

might have been originally in Italy, after it had been brought from Lydia, its native place* 2.16.

REACH Ruthin,* 2.17 and enter under Porth y Dwr, its only remain∣ing gate. The town is pleasantly seated, on the easy slope and summit of a rising ground.* 2.18 The castle stood on the south side, and in part sunk beneath the earth: its poor remains impend over the fall of land fronting the west, where a fragment or two of a tower are still to be seen, mixed with the native rock, which in parts served as a facing to the fortress, whose lower part was formed out of it; a very deep foss, hewen out of the live stone, with a portal at each end, divides it breadthways. Honest Church-yard, with great truth and simplicity, thus describes the work:

This castle stands on rocke much like red bricke, The dykes are cut with toole throughe stonie cragge; The towers are hye, the walles are large and thicke, The worke itself would shake a subject's bagge.

A DRAWING I discovered in the British Museum, shews that it soared high above the ground, and that its numerous towers well merited the poet's praise.

THE views from the summit of the ruins, are very well worthy of the traveller's attention. If he is fond of a more aerial one, I would by all means have him ascend the heights of Bwlch pen y Barras, from whence is a full prospect of our boasted vale, and the remote hills of our Alpine tract.

THE Welsh name of the fortress is Castell Côch yn Gwernvor* 2.19. Possibly our countrymen had here a strong-hold before the time of Edward I. who built the castle whose ruins we survey† 2.20, and bestowed it, in 1281, with the cantred of Dyffryn Clwyd, on Regi∣nald de Grey; for which he did homage, at Chester, to Edward of Caernarvon, then prince of Wales. The king added at the same time the townships of Maesmynnan, Pembedw, and Blowite, as de∣pendencies on the castle; and I ought to add the land of Wenchal de Lacy. Out of this antient cantred was formed the present lordship of Ruthin, which comprehends several parishes. It re∣mained in the family of the Greys till the time of Richard earl of Kent, who having dissipated his fortune by gaming, sold it to Henry VII. Queen Elizabeth bestowed it on Ambrose Dudley earl of Warwick: and it is now in possession of Richard Myddelton, esq of Chirk Castle. I must observe, this lordship was directed by Edward the Second, to contribute two hundred foot soldiers for his Scottish expedition, in 1309; but in 1325, only one man at arms and thirty footmen were required‡ 2.21.

THE inhabitants, united with those of Denbigh and Holt, send a representative to parlement.

THE town of Ruthin was burnt by Owen Glendwr,* 2.22 on September the 20th, 1400. He took the opportunity of surprizing it during the fair, enriched his followers with the plunder, and then retired to his fastnesses among the hills.

IN the last century, the castle was garrisoned by the loyalists,

and sustained, in 1646, a siege, from February to the middle of April;* 2.23 when it surrendered, with two months provisions, to gene∣ral Mytton, who received the thanks of the house for his services; the commons ordered Mr. Fogge, his chaplain, fifty pounds for bringing the news, and confirmed the general's appointment or lieutenant-colonel Mason to the government of the new con∣quest† 2.24. The fortress was afterwards demolished by an order of the house.

THE church is large,* 2.25 yet only a chapel to Llanruth. The roof prettily divided into small squares, ornamented with sculpture, and marked with the names of the workmen. The only monu∣ment of any note, is that of Doctor Gabriel Goodman, dean of Westminster in the time of queen Elizabeth, whose figure is repre∣sented by a bust. This illustrious divine was a native of Ruthin, and was greatly distinguished by his various merit. As a church∣man, he acquired great fame by his translation of the epistle to the Corinthians, being assistant in the version of the bible into English: as a philanthropist, his foundation of a hospital for twelve poor people, and a warden (who is the clergyman of the place) perpetuates his benevolent turn: and his affection to learned men is evident, not only by his establishing here a free school for this parish, and that of Llan-Elidan, with a stipend to the master of sixty pounds a year; but by his being the patron of the great Cambden* 2.26, whom he enabled to take those travels, which produced the finest collection of provincial antiquities ever extant.

THE church was originally conventual, and belonged to a house of Bonhommes* 2.27, a species of Augustins, introduced into England in 1283: but the time of their continuance here could be but very short; for, in 1310, John, son of Reginald de Grey, made it colle∣giate, and established seven regular priests, with an endowment of two hundred and five acres of land, in Rosmeryon and Rue, besides other lands, and woods, a mill, pasture for twenty-three cows and a bull; and pannage, or the free keeping of sixty hogs in the woods of the lordship† 2.28. For these, and several other good things, the said priests were for ever to celebrate daily a solemn mass, for the souls of Edward I. queen Eleanor, Reginald de Grey and Matilda his wife, the founder and his wife, all their friends and relations, and of all the benefactors to this church† 2.29.

John de Grey was possibly buried here; and his might be the tomb, which Churchyard calls that of an earl of Kent; which stood in the chancel, and in his days was placed on the right side of the choir.

THE apartments of the priests were connected to the church by a cloister; part of which is built up, and serves as the man∣sion of the warden. When John de Grey undertook this work, he obtained the consent of Sir Hugh, then rector of Llanruth; to whom he allows this to have been subordinate, by custom as well as right‡ 2.30.

IN 1583, here were left in charge four incumbents, with pen∣sions from six pounds to one pound six shillings and eight-pence

each* 2.31. The lands were granted by Edward VI. to Wil∣liam Winlove and Richard Fyld† 2.32.

Ruthin, and several other parishes, which formerly composed the cantref of Dyffryn Clwyd, form a deanery in the diocese of Bangor, bearing the antient name.

Leland mentions a house of white friers‡ 2.33 in this town, but gives no particulars. It possibly stood in the street, to this day called Prior's-Street.

THE new jail does much honor to the architect,* 2.34 Mr. Joseph Turner; the contrivance comprehending all the requisites of these seats of misery, security, cleaness, and health. The debtors are separated from the criminals by a very lofty wall, dividing their respective yards, which are airy and spacious, and are supplied with baths. The condemned cells are on a level with the ground; are dry, light, and strong; an excellent contrast to the sad dungeons of antient prisons.

FROM Ruthin. I visited the neat little mother church of Llan∣ruth, dedicated to St. Meugan, a great astrologer, and physician to king Vortigern. In it is the monument of John Thelwall, esq of Bathavarn, and his wife, kneeling at an altar: behind him are ten sons§ 2.35; behind her, four daughters. Of the sons, Sir Bevis is armed; the rest are in gowns; and three carry in their hands a skull, to denote their early departure. The other seven lived

to advanced life, and flourished cotemporaries in the several pro∣fessions they had embraced.

John, the eldest, died aged 97, and left a posterity, amounting to between two hundred and forty and two hundred and sixty.

SIR Eubule became master of Jesus College, Oxford. I will not tire the reader with the whole family history; but must not omit Ambrose, the ninth son, who began life with being servant to Sir Francis Bacon; and so great a favorite was he, that in order to reward him, Sir Francis moved his royal master to knight all the masters in chancery; for which Ambrose was to have a gratuity of one hundred pounds a man. The affair was done, and the money paid, except by his brother, Sir Eubule, then one of the masters, to whom he remitted the fees.

THERE is in the church a monumental bust of Ambrose, admi∣rably cut: his hair short; beard, peaked; and ruff, flat.

THIS family came from Thelwall, in Cheshire, and took their name from the place. The founder was a follower of Reginald de Grey, and made a settlement in these parts. Notwithstanding the numerous offspring of the family, and the other branches, only two remain of the name, my kinsman, Edward Thelwall, esq of Llanbeder, a most beautiful situation, high on the side of the hills, two miles east of Ruthin; and Simon Thelwall, esq of Blaen-yâl.

FROM Llanruth the vale grows very narrow, and almost closes with the parish of Llanvair. If I place the extremity at Pont Newydd, there cannot be a more beautiful finishing; where the bridge, near the junction of the Clwyd and the Hespin; and a lofty hill, with its cloathed with hanging woods, terminate the view.

Go over part of Coed Marchan, a large naked common, noted for a quarry of coarse red and white marble. Descend into the narrow vale of Nant-clwyd; and for some time ride over dreary commons. On one is a small encampment, with a single foss, called Caer Senial. Near this place, enter MEIREONEDDSHIRE. And, within sight of the former, visit Caer Drewyn, another post, in full view of the beautiful vales of Glyn-dwrdwye and Edernion, watered by the Dee. It lies on the steep slope of a hill; is of a circular form,* 2.36 and about half a mile in circumference; and the defence consists of a single wall, mostly in ruins; yet in some parts the facings are still apparent: in the thickness of the walls are evident remains of apartments. It had two entrances. Near the north-eastern is an oblong square, added to the main works; and as the ground there is rather flat, it is strengthened with a great ditch, and a wall: within are the foundations of rude stone buildings; one of which is circular, and several yards in diameter: the ditch is carried much farther than the wall; and seems part of an unfinished addition to the whole. It is conjec∣tured, that Owen Gwynedd occupied this post, while Henry II. lay encamped on the Berwyn hills, on the other side of the vale. Owen Glyndwr is said also to have made use of this fastness, in his occasional retreats.

NOT far from hence, near Gwyddelwern, is a place called Saith Marchog, from the circumstance of Owen having there surprized Reginald de Grey, and seven knights (Saith Marchog) in his train* 2.37.

THIS post or fastness of Caer Drewyn, is but one of the chain which begins at Diserth, and is continued along the Clwydian hills into the mountains of Yale; for on the last are others; one on a Moel y Gaer, and another on Moel Forfydd; and Bryn Eglwys church seems to have been placed in the area of a third. These were the temporary retreats of the inhabitants in time of war, or sudden invasions: here they placed their women, their children, and cattle, under strong garrison; or perhaps a whole clan or nation might withdraw into them, till the retreat of the enemy, who could never subsist long in a country, where all the provisions were in this manner secured. It is also equally cer∣tain, that the inhabitants themselves could not remain here for any long space, as most of these fastnesses are destitute of water* 2.38.

DESCEND, and finding the usual ford of the Dee to Corwen im∣passable, get again into the Ruthin road, on a common marked with Tumuli, the frequent signs of slaughter. These appear to me to have been the graves of the slain in some skirmish which the Welsh had with the English, about the year 1255; when Llewelyn ap Gryffyd, collecting all his power, recovered the inland part of North Wales, and all Merioneddshire, from the usurpation of Henry III.† 2.39.

PASS near the house of Rûg. This place is memorable for the treacherous surprizal of Gryffyd ap Conan, king of Wales, soon af∣ter his victory at Carno, in the year 1077; having been enveigled hither by the treason of one Muriawn Goch. The mount (in all likelihood originally Roman) on which the castelet stood, is still

to be seen in the garden. Notwithstanding his eminent success, he fell into a long captivity, being here betrayed into the hands of Hugh Lupus earl of Chester, and Hugh Belesme earl of Shrews∣bury, and was conveyed to the castle of Chester, where he endured a twelve years imprisonment. At length he was released by the bravery of a young man of these parts, Kynwric Hîr; who, com∣ing to Chester under pretence of buying necessaries, took an op∣portunity, while the keepers were a feasting, to carry away his prince, loaden with irons, on his back, to a place of security* 2.40.

IN after-times, this place became the property of Owen Bro∣gyntyn, natural son of Madog ap Mereddydd, a prince of Powys. Such was the merit of Brogyntyn, that he shared his father's in∣heritance equal with his legitimate brethren. His dagger, cu∣riously wrought, is, I am told, still preserved in the house. By the marriage of Margaret Wenn, daughter and heiress of Jevan ap Howel, a descendant of Brogyntyn, with Pyers Salusbury, of Bachym∣byd† 2.41, were derived the Salusburies of Rûg; a name existing in the male line till the present century.

I MAY mention here, as a sequel to the life of Owen Glyndwr, that on his attainder, Henry IV. sold the lordship of Glyndwrdwy to Robert Salusbury‡ 2.42, of Rûg.

CROSS the Dee, on a very handsome bridge of six arches, from which the river shews itself to vast advantage, above and below, in form of two extensive channels, bordered by trees, and ferti∣lizing a verdant tract of meadow.

REACH Corwen, whose church and small town, seated beneath a

vast rock at the foot of the Berwyn hills, form a picturesque point of view, from various parts of the preceding ride.

Corwen is celebrated for being the great rendezvous of the Welsh forces under Owen Gwynedd* 2.43, who from hence put a stop to the invasion of Henry II. in the year 1165. The place of en∣campment is marked, as I am told, by a rampart of earth, above the church southward; and by the marks of the sites of abundance of tents from thence to the village of Cynwyd.

THE church is built in form of a cross. Within is the tomb of one of its vicars, Jorwerth Sulien. His figure, holding a cha∣lice in his hand, is represented as low as his breast, over which the inscription, "Hie jacet Jorwerth Sulien, Vicarius de Corvaen, ora pro eo," is continued. The whole is a very elegant piece of engraving, upon the coffin-lid, I fear not old enough to make it the tomb of St. Julien, archbishop of St. David; the godliest man and greatest clerke in all Wales† 2.44: yet that saint has his well here, and is patron of the church.

ON the south side of the church wall is cut a very rude cross, which is shewn to strangers as the sword of Owen Glyndwr. A most singular cross in the church-yard merits attention: the shast is let into a flat stone, and that again is supported by four or five rude stones, as if the whole had been formed in imitation of, and in veneration of the sacred Cromlehs of very early time.

A MONUMENT of our superstition remains in the Carreg y Big yn y fach Newlyd, a pointed rude stone, which stands near the porch. We are told that all attempts to build the church in any other place, were frustrated by the influence of certain adverse

powers, till the founders, warned in vision, were directed to the spot where this pillar stood.

IN the church-yard is a building, founded by William Eyton, of Plâs Warren, in Shropshire; who, in 1709, left by will a sum for the support of six widows of clergy of the county of Merioneth only, and for the erecting six houses for them to live in. In con∣sequence, this building was finished, and lands, to the present amount of sixty pounds a year, bought, which is equally divided among the widows resident here.

LEAVE Corwen, and return as far as the bridge on the way I came. The vast Berwyn mountains are the eastern boundary of this beautiful vale. Their highest tops are Cader Fronwen, or The White Breast, and Cader Ferwyn. On the first is a great heap of stones, brought from some distant part, with great toil, up the steep ascent; and in their middle is an erect pillar. Of him, whose ambition climbed this height for a monument, we are left in ignorance. Under their summit is said to run an artificial road,* 2.45 called Ffordd Helen, or Helen's Way; a lady, of whose labors I shall soon have occasion to speak further.

ON these hills, particularly about Cader Fronwen, is found the Rubus Chamaemorus,* 2.46 Cloud Berries, or Knot Berries. Llwyd* 2.47 says, that the Welsh call it Mwyar Berwyn, Mora Montis Berwyn. They are frequently used for the making of tarts; and the Swedes and Norwegians reckon the berries to be excellent antiscorbutics, and preserve great quantities in autumn, to make tarts. The Laplanders bruise and eat them as a delicious food, in the milk of rein-deer; and to preserve them through the winter, bury

them in snow, and at the return of spring, find them as fresh as when first gathered* 2.48. I have seen them in the Highlands of Scotland, brought to table as a desert.

REACH Cynwyd, a small village, formerly noted for the courts kept here by the great men of the neighborhood, to settle the boundaries of their several clames on the wastes and commons, and to take cognizances of the encroachment; but they have been long discontinued, and the records destroyed.

VISIT from this place Rhaider Cynwyd,* 2.49 or the fall of Cynwyd, which finely finishes the end of the dingle, that extends about half a mile from the village. The water of the river Trystion bursts from the sides of the hill, through deep and narrow chasms, from rock to rock, which are overgrown with wood. The rude and antient stocks, that hang in many parts over the precipices, add much to this picturesque scene; which is still improved by the little mill, and its inhabitants, in this sequestered bottom.

PURSUE the journey to Bala. Go by the little church of Llangar. Observe somewhat farther on the left, in a field called Caer Bont,* 2.50 a small circular entrenchment, consisting of a foss and rampart, with two entrances, meant probably as a guard to this pass. My fellow-traveller, the reverend Mr. Lloyd, informed me, that in another tour he had ascended a hill, above this place, called Y Foel, on whose summit was a circular coronet, of rude pebbly stones, none above three feet in height; with an entrance to the east, or rising sun. The diameter of the circle is ten yards. Within was a circular cell, about six feet in diameter, sunk a very little below the surface; and about a hundred yards distance,

facing this, are the reliques of a great Carnedd, surrounded by large stones. The whole of this formed a place of worship among the antient Britons, and probably was surrounded with a grove. But what I have to say on the subject of Druidism, is re∣served till I reach Anglesea, its principal seat.

PROCEED to Llandrillo, a village with a church dedicated to St. Trillo. It is seated on the torrent Keidio, at the mouth of a great glen, which extends upwards of two miles, embosomed in the Berwyn mountains, and leads to the noted pass through them, called Milter Gerrig, into the county of Montgomery.

AT about a mile distance from Llandrillo, I again crossed the Dee, at Pont Gilan, a bridge of two arches, over a deep and black water. Beyond this spot, the valley acquires new beauties, espe∣cially on the right. The valley here contracts greatly: the road runs at the foot of a brow, of a stupendous height, covered with venerable oaks, which have kept their stubborn station, amidst the rudest of rocks, which every now and then shew their grey and broken fronts, amidst the deep verdure of the foliage of trees, which so strangely find nutriment amongst them. The growth of the oak, in forcing its root downward, frequently rends thse vast strata, whose fragments often appear scattered at the base, of most amazing sizes. The whole scenery requires the pencil of a Sal∣vator Rosa: and here our young artists would find a fit place to study the manner of that great painter of wild nature.

A LITTLE beyond the extremity of this romantic part, in an opening on the right,* 2.51 stand the church and village of Llan-Dder∣fel: the first was dedicated to St. Derfel Gadarn, and was re∣markable for a vast wooden image of the saint, the subject of

much superstition in ancient times. The Welsh had a prophecy, that it should set a whole forest on fire. Whether to complete it, or whether to take away from the people the cause of idolatry, I cannot say; but it was brought to London in the year 1538, and was used as part of the fuel which consumed poor frier Forest to ashes, in Smithfield, for denying the king's supremacy. This un∣happy man was hanged in chains round his middle to a gallows, over which was placed this inscription, allusive to our image:

David Darvel Gutheren, As sayth the Welshman, Fetched outlawes out of Hell.

Now is he come with spere and sheld, In harnes to burne in Smithfeld, For in Wales he may not dwel.

And Foreest the freer. That obstinate lyer, That wylfully shal be dead.

In his contumacye, The gospel doeth deny, The kyng to be supreme heade* 2.52.

THE prophecy was fulfilled, the image burnt, and the Forest consumed, to the great content of the lord mayor, the dukes of Suffolk and Norfolk, the lord admiral, and lord privy seal, and di∣vers others of the nobility, who honored this auto de fe with their presence† 2.53; but unfortunately, the frier not having the insensi∣bility

of our wooden saint, on the touch of the flames shewed the natural horrors at approach of an agonizing death, and payed very little respect to the arguments of the pious Latimer, who was placed opposite to the sufferer, in a pulpit, to preach him into a sense of the crime of differing in opinion with his sovereign in re∣ligious matters; for which the prelate himself suffered in a suc∣ceeding reign. Forest thought fit to deny that Henry was head of the church; and Latimer would force that honor upon Mary, who chose to cede it to the Pope.

OPPOSITE to this church is Llandderfel bridge, of four arches. At some distance from it, the vale almost closes; and at Kalettur finishes nobly with a lofty wooded eminence, above which soars the vast mafs of the Arennig mountains, notwithstanding they ap∣pear immediately after to be very remote. And I here stop a mo∣ment, to recommend to the traveller, who does not chuse pre∣cisely to pursue my steps, to follow the course of the Dee from Bangor, through the delicious tract it waters from thence to Llangollen, to follow it through Glyndwrdwy to Corwen, and thence, through the matchless vale of Edeirneon, to this spot, where, for a small space, it passes through a flat, an unpleasant contrast to the preceding ride.

ON the left lies Rhiwaedog, or The Bloody Brow, noted for a battle between Llowarch Hên and the Saxons, in which he lost Cynddelw, the last of his numerous sons. A spot not far from hence, called Pabell Llowarch Hên, or the tent of that monarch, is supposed to have been the place where he rested the night after the battle, and where he finished that pathetic elegy, in which he laments the loss of all his sons. In it he directs the last to de∣fend

the brow of that hill, indifferent to the fate of the only survivor.

CYNDDELW, cadw dithew y Rhiu Arr a ddêl yma heddiw Cubeb am un mab nyd gwiu* 2.54.

CYNDDELW, defend thou the brow of yonder hill. Let the event of the day be what it-will: when there is but one son left, it is vain to be over-fond of him.

THE house and estate of Rhiwaedog is now owned by Mr. Dolben, descended by his mother from the Llwyds, the very antient possessors. Eineon ap Ithel, of this place, a valiant ancestor of his, articled with John duke of Lancaster, in 1394, to attend him for a year in his expedition to Guyen, with one mam at arms and one archer; for which the duke rewarded him with twenty marks, issuing out of his manor of Halton† 2.55.

PASS by the village and church of Llanvawr, and cross the tor∣rent Troweryn, beneath Rhiwlas, the antient seat of the Prices. In the house are the portraits of some of the family:* 2.56 among others, that of William Price, esq member for the county in the long parlement, but soon displaced for his adherence to the king.

REACH Bala, a small town in the parish of Llanyekil, noted for its vast trade in woollen stockings, and its great markets every Saturday morning, when from two to five hundred pounds worth are sold each day, according to the demand. Round the place, women and children are in full employ,* 2.57 knitting along the roads; and mixed with them Herculean figures appear, assisting their om∣phales

in this effeminate employ. During winter the females, through love of society, often assemble at one another's houses to knit; sit round a fire, and listen to some old tale, or to some an∣tient song, or the sound of a harp; and this is called Cymmorth Gwau, or, the knitting assembly.

MUCH of the wool is bought at the great fairs at Llanrwst, in Denbighshire.

CLOSE to the south-east end of the town, is a great artificial mount,* 2.58 called Tommen y Bala, in the summer time usually covered in a picturesque manner with knitters, of both sexes, and all ages. From the summit is a fine view of Llyn-tegid, and the adjacent mountains. On the right appear the two Arennigs, Vawr and Vach; beyond the farther end, soar the lofty Arans, with their two heads, Aran Mowddwy and Penllyn; and beyond all, the great Cader Idris closes the view.

THIS mount appears to have been Roman, and placed here, with a castelet on its summit, to secure the pass towards the sea, and keep our mountaneers in subjection. The Welsh, in after time, took advantage of this, as well as other works of the same nature.

THE town is of a very regular form: the principal street very spacious, and the lesser fall into it at right angles. I will not deny, but that its origin might have been Roman.

THE mounts form a chain. I have observed one within sight of this, on the mountain road to Ruthin, which is called Tommen y Castell; Caer Crwyni is a small entrenchment, not remote from it, overlooking the vale of Edeirnion; the mount in the garden of Rûg is another; a third, much more considerable, lies within

[figure]

VIEW FROM TOMMEN Y BALA.

sight of this, on the road to Gwyddelwern; and farther on, in the parish of Bettws, is a fourth, which goes under the usual name of Tommen y Castell.

Bala takes its name from its vicinity to the place where a river discharges itself from a lake. Balloch in the Erse language signi∣fies the same. I know little of its antient history, any more than it seems to have been dependent on the castle of Harlech; and that, in the reign of Edward II. it was committed to the care of Finian de Stanedon, constable of that castle* 2.59; and in the time of Edward III. his great general, Walter de Manni, was rewarded with the fee-farm of Bala and Harlech, and was made sheriff of this county for life† 2.60. I may add incidentally, that Edward I. gave one Hugo de Turbervill liberty of hunting through Meirio∣nithshire all kinds of wild beasts‡ 2.61, while probably the subdued natives were only his Chasseurs.

Bala Lake, Pimble Mere,* 2.62 or Llyn-tegid, lies at a small distance from the town; and is a fine expanse of water, near four miles long, and twelve hundred yards broad in the widest place: the deepest part is opposite Bryn Golen, where it is forty-six yards deep, with three yards of mud; the shores gravelly: the bounda∣ries are easy slopes, well cultivated, and varied with woods. In stormy weather, its billows run very high, and incroach greatly on the north-east end, where, within memory of man, numbers of acres have been lost. It rises sometimes nine feet, and rains and

winds jointly contribute to make it overflow the fair vale of Edeirnion.

ITS fish are,* 2.63 pike, perch, trout, a few roach, and abundance of eels; and shoals of that Alpine fish, the Gwyniaid, which spawn in December, and are taken in great numbers in spring, or summer. Pike have been caught here of twenty-five pounds weight, a trout of twenty-two, a perch of ten, and a gwyniaid of five. Sir Wat∣kin Williams Wynn clames the whole fishery of this noble lake. It had been the property of the abby of Basingwerk; for Owen de Brogynton made a grant to GOD, St. Mary, and the monks of that house, of

a certain water in Penthlinn, called Thlintegit, or Pembelmore, and all the pasture of the said land of Penthlinn.

This was witnessed by Reiner (who was bishop of St. Asaph from 1186 to 1224) and by Ithail, Owen's chaplain* 2.64.

THE waters are discharged under Pont Mwnwgl y Llyn, a bridge of three arches. They seem inconsiderable in respect to the size of the streams which feed the lake; for the Dee does not make in dry seasons the figure I expected. Salmon come in plenty to this place, but neither do they trespass into the lake, and the gwyniaids very rarely into the river. Report says, that the Dee passes through the lake from end to end, without deigning to mix its waters; as the Rhone was fabled to serve the lake of Ge∣neva. But, in fact, the Dee does not assume its name, till it quits its parent.

NEAR the west side, close to the bridge, and just opposite to Tommen y Bala, stood another castelet; not so high, but of a more extensive form than that mount. It is now broke through by a

public road, but is very apparent on both sides. The mount, or keep, was on the lower, immediately above the river; and the vestiges of a wall are still evident. This was subservient to the same purposes as the others; for there must have been, from the nature of the ground, a travellable road on both sides of the lake. This I apprehend to have been the castle of Bala, which Llewelyn ap Jorwerth founded in 1202* 2.65.

THERE is no river in England which has been so much cele∣brated by our poets, for its sanctity, * 2.66 as the Dee. Most countries had one, which they held in peculiar veneration. The Thessalians paid divine honors to their Paeneus, on account of its beauty: the Scythians worshipped their Ister, on account of its size: the Ger∣mans the Rhine, because it was the judge whether their offspring was legitimate; for the spurious sunk, the lawful floated† 2.67: and let me add to the list, the Ganges, out of whose waters no Indian of a certain sect would willingly yield his last. breath. Our river foretold events by the change of its channel‡ 2.68; and it often seemed miracu∣lously to increase, without the usual intervention of rains; therefore, in all probability, derived its name, not from Ddu, or black, because its waters are not so, except in parts, by reason of the depth; nor from Dwy, two, because it does not appear to flow from any two particular fountains; but from Duw, divine, by reason of its wondrous attributes. Our original stock, the Gauls, deified foun∣tains, lakes, and rivers. They even had one, which in theirs (our

primitive tongue) bore the same name, and was called (Latinised) into Divona.

Salve fons ignote ortu, sacer, alme, perennis Vitree, glauce, profunde, sonore, opace. Salve urbis GENIUS, medico potabilis haustu, DIVONA celtarum lingua, sons addite divis* 2.69

Giraldus, who travelled through our country in 1188, gives the first account of the prophetic quality of the Dee; and the notion was continued to many ages after his. Spencer introduces it among the rivers attendant on the marriage of the Thames and the Medway† 2.70:

And following Dee, which Britons long ygone Did call DIVINE, that doth by Chester tend.

BUT Draiton is still more particular, and adds many of its pre∣saging qualities, delivered down to him from the more antient times.

Again Dee's holiness began By his contracted front and sterner waves to show, That he had things to speak that profit them to know: A brook that was suppos'd much business to have seen, Which had an antient bound 'twixt Wales and England been, And noted was by both to be an ominous flood, That changing of his fords, the future ill or good Of either country told; of either's war or peace; The sickness or the health, the dearth or the increase‡ 2.71

.

WELL, therefore, might the sacred rivers be called URBIS GENII; and that ours was as deserving as the best of them of that title, is evinced from the above. Finally, Milton, in the follow∣ing line, beautifully alludes to the interpreters of the presages among the Britons, the antient Druids, who dwelt upon its banks:

Nor yet where DEVA spreads her wizard fstream* 2.72

.

IT was long before we got clear of these superstitions. They were very prevalent in the time of Gildas, in the sixth century, when our ancestors strongly retained the idolatry of the Druids among their Christian rites: and, notwithstanding the fulmination of many a monarch† 2.73, it kept its ground; and hydromancy still remains practised among us; of which I shall have occasion to speak of more than one kind.

I FOUND that I could here,* 2.74 with greater ease than from any other place, digress to Kerrig y Druidion; a parish a few miles to the north, in the county of Denbigh, noted for certain Druidical remains, which gave name to the place. After a dreary ride, I found myself disappointed; these sacred reliques having been profanely carried away, and converted into a wall. It is therefore from the annotator on Cambden‡ 2.75, and the drawings preserved by him among the Sebright MSS. that I must form my description.

THE largest was a fine specimen of the British Kist vaen, or stone chest. It consisted of one stone at top, placed inclining to the north, and was, when measured by Mr. Llwyd, ten feet long, supported by a stone on each side about seven feet long, and near

two and a half broad. Under one end was a stone, three feet long; at the other, one of the length of two feet. The hollow beneath was only seven feet long, three and a half broad, and only two and a half high; which sufficiently shews, that these mo∣numents had not been the cells of Druids; their uses, therefore, must: have been sepulchral, according to the conjecture of Doctor Borlase. The antient natives of our isle did not always burn their dead. Skeletons have been discovered in similar Kist vaens, at full length: in such as this, they might lie commodiously, with all the parade of arms, often buried with them. Around this, was a circle of stones, inclosing an area of about forty paces in diameter; and the precinct might be formed with the intent of keeping people at a respectable distance from the remains, per∣haps of some mighty chieftain. This monument went by the name of Karchar Kynric Rwth; not that it ever was used for that purpose originally; but there is a tradition, that in aftertimes, a little tyrant of that name, in the neighborhood, was wont to cram those who offended him, into the hollow of these stones; which might serve for the purposes of torment as well as the little ease in the tower of London, or the iron cages of the Bastille.

THE other Kist vaen was nearly similar to the first; but no mention is made of the circle of stones: probably they were taken away before Mr. Llwyd visited the place.

AT Giler,* 2.76 in this parish, was born that upright and able judge; Robert Price, esq baron of the exchequer, and finally justice of the common pleas. His famous speech in the house of com∣mons, against the grant of the great Welsh lordships to the earl of Portland, will ever testify his love to his country. His speedy

promotion by king William, do equal credit to his majesty, and Mr. Price; since the former, howsoever grievous to him might be the opposition to his will, yet no consideration could induce him to permit his subjects to lose the benefit of a magistrate ca∣pable and honest, as he knew our countryman to be.

RETURN to Bala, and continue my journey on the south side of the lake, a most beautiful ride. Pass by Llanyckil church, dedi∣cated to St. Beuno; and see, on the opposite side, Llangower, de∣dicated to St. Gwawr, mother of the Cambrian bard Llowarch Hên. Beneath flows Avon Gwawr, the only feed of the lake on that side.

Go by Glan y Llyn,* 2.77 an old house, near the water edge; which, as well as the following, had been the property of the Vaughans.

LEAVE on the right another antient seat, Caer Gai, placed on an eminence. Cambden says, it was a castle, built by one Caius, a Roman; the Britons ascribe it to Gai, foster-brother to king Ar∣thur. It probably was Roman, for multitudes of coins have been found in different parts of the neighborhood; and it is certain, that it had been a fortress to defend this pass, for which it is well adapted, both by situation, and form of the hill.

I PROCEEDED about two miles farther,* 2.78 to visit another, seated a mile from the Dolgelleu road, on the summit of a high rock, which bears the name of Castell Corndochon, the origin of which we are equally ignorant of. Two sides of the rock are precipitous. In the front of the castle is cut a deep foss: the castle consisted of an oblong tower, rounded at the extremity; and its measure within is forty-three feet by twenty-two. Behind that, and joined to it by a wall, are the ruins of a square tower; this lies in the main

body of the fortress, whose form, as Cambden observes, inclines to oval. This had been very considerable; was built with mortar, made of gravel and sea shells; and was faced with free-stone, squared, and well cut.

I RETURNED towards Caer Gai;* 2.79 and, not far from thence, to the village and church of Llan-uwchllyn. In the last is the figure of an armed man, with a conic helmet, and mail muffler round his chin and neck: on his breast is a wolf's head, and on his belly another; and in the intervening space, three roses. The first are the arms of Ririd Vlaidd; the others of Kynedda Wledig, or, The Warlike, a Cumbrian prince, whose sons (after their father had been defeated by the Saxons, in the sixth century) retired, and possessed themselves of these parts of Wales: and from Mei∣rion, a grandson of his, is said to be given the name of Meirionith to this shire. Ririd was lord of Pen-Llyn, which signifies the head of the lake, and forms one of the hundreds of Meirionithshire. It had also its castle, which probably was that of Corndochon. Around the margin of the tomb is a mutilated inscription, which, as far as I could discover, run thus: Hic jacet Johannes ap * * * * ap Madoc ap J—eth, cujus animae pr—etur. Deus amen. anno. D^•i MCCC. V. 88.

CLOSE by this village runs Avon-y-Llan, Avon Llew, or Amlêw. The last rises from two springs, and falls into the former. Those who chuse to derive the Dee from its double origin, may fix on these: but I met with a third, at the farthest corner of the lake, arising from the neighborhood of the lofty Aran,* 2.80 to which Spencer gives the honor of forming that celebrated river, I suppose after running through the lake, unmixed with the waters. The poet

makes the foot of that mighty mountain the place of education of our renowned prince, Arthur; who, on his birth, being deli∣vered to a fairy knight, is by him instantly conveyed to an antient hero,

To be upbrought in gentle thews and martial might.

IT is evident that Spencer, who was deeply read in all the ro∣mance of his romantic days, had heard the tradition of Caer Gai, and its old inhabitant, Gai's father, to whom he chuses to give the more classical name of Timon; for so prince Arthur is made to name his foster-father.

Unto old Timon he me brought bylive, Old Timon, who in youthful years had been▪ In warlike feats the expertest man alive, And is the wisest now on earth, I ween: His dwelling is low in valley green, Under the foot of Rauran mossie hore, From whence the river Dee, as silver clean, His tumbling billows rolls, with gentle rore: There all his days he train'd me up in virtuous lore* 2.81

.

THIS honored stream is now known by the name of Avon Twrch; is a fierce mountain torrent, precipitating itself from the Aran; and crosses a road from whence I first begin my journey among the Alps of our country, and ascend from hence, then sink into very deep bottoms, bounded on each side by fields of such steepness, as to put the inhabitants to great difficulties in the cul∣tivation. Woods, especially of birch, vary the scene. On the right,

tower the vast hills of Aran; or rather, two heads, arising from one base.

ARRIVE at the foot of Bwlch y Groes, or the pass of The Cross, one of the most terrible in North Wales. The height is gained by going up an exceeding steep and narrow zig-zag path: the pass itself is a dreary heathy flat, on which I suppose the cross stood, to excite the thanksgiving of travellers, for having so well accomplished their arduous journey. The descent on the other side, is much greater, and very tedious, into the long and narrow vale of Mowddwy.* 2.82 It is seven or eight miles long; and so contracted, as scarcely to admit a meadow at the bottom. Its boundaries are vast hills, generally very verdant, and fine sheep walks; but one on the left exhibits a horrible front, being so steep, as to balance between precipice and slope: it is red and naked, and too steep to admit of vegetation; and a slide from its summit would be as fatal as a fall from a perpendicular rock. In one place on the right, the mountains open, and furnish a gap to give sight to another picturesque and strange view, the rugged and wild summit of Aran Mowddwy, which soars above with tre∣mendous majesty.

THERE is a beauty in this vale, which is not frequent in others of these mountanous countries. The inclosures are all divided by excellent quickset hedges, and run far up the sides of the hills, in places so steep, that the common traveller would scarcely find footing. Numbers of little groves are interspersed; and the hills above them shew a fine turf to the top, where the bog and heath commence, which give shelter to multitudes of red grous, and a few black. But their consequences to these parts are infinitely

greater, in being the beds of fuel to all the inhabitants. The turberies are placed very remote from their dwellings; and the turf, or peat, is gotten with great difficulty. The roads from the brows of the mountains, in general, are too steep even for a horse;* 2.83 the men therefore carry up on their backs, a light sledge, fill it with a very considerable load, and drag it, by means of a rope placed over their breast, to the brink of the slope* 2.84; then go before, and draw it down, still preceding, and guiding its mo∣tions, which at times have been so violent, as to overturn and draw along with it the master, to the hazard of his life, and not without considerable bodily hurt.

AFTER riding some time along the bottom of the vale, pass by the village and church of Llan y Mowddwy; the last is dedicated to St. Tydecho,* 2.85 one of our most capital saints. His legend† 2.86 is written in verse, by Dafydd Llwyd ap Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, lord of Mathafarn; a person who had a great hand in bringing in Henry VII, by feeding his countrymen with prophecies, that one of them was to deliver Wales from the English yoke, by which means thousands of them were induced to rise, under Sir Rhys ap Thomas, and join Henry, then earl of Richmond, at Milford.

THIS illustrious bard informs us, that Tydecho had been an ab∣bot in Armorica, and came over here in the time of king Arthur;

but after the death of that hero, when the Saxons over-ran most of the kingdom, the saint retired, and led here a most austere life, lying on the bare stones, and wearing a shirt of hair: yet he employed his time usefully, was a tiller of the ground, and kept hospitality. Malgwyn Gwynedd, then a youth, took offence at the saint, and seized his oxen; but wild stags were seen the next day, performing their office, and a grey wolf harrowing after them. Malgwyn, enraged at this, brought his milk-white dogs to chace the deer, while he sat on the blue stone, to enjoy the di∣version; but when he attempted to rise, he found his breech im∣moveably fixed to the rock, so that he was obliged to beg pardon of the saint, who, on proper reparation, was so kind as to free him from his aukward pain.

So far legend. That St. Tydecho might have lived, and that Malgwyn Gwynedd did live a prince of our country, I make no doubt; and that the former did receive from the prince the pri∣vileges it once enjoyed, of sanctuary for man and beast, is equally probable: every offender, however criminal, met with protection here. Legend says, that it was to endure for a hundred ages; but, blind to futurity! the reformation was not foreseen. This place was also exempted from all fighting, burning, and killing; nor was it permitted to affront any of the inhabitants, without making the most ample reparation.

THE lands of Tydecho were also freed from mortuaries, clames, oppression, and that great duty, which most places were subject to, the Gobr Merched, the penalty of incontinence; which the saint, in tenderness to the possible frailty of his flock, wisely took care to get it exempted from.

ABOUT four or five miles farther, I reached Dinas y Mowydwy,* 2.87 seated on the plain of an eminence, at the junction of three vales, beneath the rock Craig y Dinas; whose peat paths I now survey with horror, reflecting on a frolick of my younger days, in climbing to its summit, to enjoy the pleasure of darting down again in one of the peat sledges. The foot of this eminence is watered by the Kerris and the Dyfi. The last, which retains its name till lost in the sea at Aberdyfi, rises at the bottom of the rude rock Craig Llyn Dyfi, under Aran Mowddwy. It abounds with salmon, which are hunted in the night, by an animated, but illicit chace, by spear∣men, who are directed to the fish by lighted whisps of straw.

THIS Mowddwy, notwithstanding it is dignified with the name of Dinas, or city, consists but of one street, strait and broad, with houses ill according with its title; but it still preserves the in∣signia of power, the stocks, and whipping-post, the vag-vawr, or great fetter, the mace, and standard measure. It is likewise the capital of an extensive lordship, under the rule of my worthy cousin, John Mytton, esquire.* 2.88 He derives it from William, or Wil∣c••cke, as he is commonly called, fourth son of Gryffyd ap Gwen∣wynwyn, lord of Powis. His grand-daughter and sole heir mar∣ried Sir Hugh de Burgh, son of the famous Hugh, justiciary of England. His son, Sir John, left four daughters, married into the houses of Newport, Leighton, Lingen, and Mytton; Alianor, the fourth daughter, having given her hand, and this seignory, to Thomas Mytton, ancestor of the present lord.

THE powers of this capital over a district,* 2.89 which comprehends this large parish, and seven out of the eight townships of that of Mallwyd, are considerable. The corporation consists of a mayor,

aldermen, recorder, and several burgesses. The mayor tries crimi∣nals; but, as the late worthy magistrate, a very honest smith, told me, that, for some years past, they have not adventured to whip; the stocks, or confinement in the vag-vawr, is the utmost severity they have exerted: but then they retain the exclusive power of licensing ale-houses in their district, and are likewise justices of the peace as far as the limits of their little reign.

THE recorder (in absence of the lord) tries all matters of pro∣perty, not exceeding forty shillings; and the attornies, whose fees do not exceed half a crown, are chosen from the lettered part of the community, or those who can read.

I WAS accommodated with entertainment at the manor-house, from whence I took a delightful walk of about two miles, along the vale, on the banks of the Dyvi. The valley expands, and the hills sink in height, towards the west. After passing the Dyfi, cross a bridge over the deep and still water of the Klywêdog, black as ink, passing sluggishly through a darksome chasm, into open day.

REACH Mallwyd,* 2.90 remarkable for the situation of the altar, in the middle of the church; which Doctor Davies, author of the dictionary, then incumbent, in defiance of the orders of archbi∣shop Laud, removed again from its imaginary superstitious site at the east end.

ONE of the beautiful yew trees in the church-yard, is extremely well worth notice. It is a sort of forest of vast trees, issuing from one stem, forming a most extensive shade, and magnificent ap∣pearance. Another reason for planting these trees in church-yards, besides those usually assigned, was a custom in old times,

upon Palme Sunday, to make this the substitute of the tree, from which that Sunday took its name; to bless on that day the boughs; also to burn some of them to ashes; and with those the priest, on the following Ash-Wednesday, signed the people on the forehead, saying.

Memento, homo! quod pulvis es, et in pulverem reverteris.

And of the branches, so blessed, it was customary to stick some in the fields, in rogation week, or at the times of processions.

RETURN to Dinas y Mowddwy.* 2.91 On the road was informed of the place, not far from hence, where Lewis Owen, vice-chamber∣lain of North Wales, and baron of the exchequer of North Wales, was cruelly murdered in the year 1555, by a set of banditti, with which this country was over-run. After the wars of the houses of York and Lancaster, multitudes of felons and outlaws inhabited this country; and established in these parts, for a great length of time, from those unhappy days, a race of profligates, who conti∣nued to rob, burn, and murder, in large bands, in defiance of the civil power; and would steal and drive whole herds of cattle, in mid-day, from one county to another, with the utmost impunity. To put a stop to their ravages, a commission was granted to John Wynn ap Meredydd, of Gwedyr, and this gentleman, in order to settle the peace of the country, and to punish all offenders against its government. In pursuance of their orders, they raised a body of stout men, and on a Christmas-Eve seized above four score out∣laws and felons, on whom they held a jail delivery, and punished them according to their deserts. Among them were the two sons of a woman, who very earnestly applied to Owen for the pardon

of one: he refused; when the mother, in a rage, told him (baring her neck) These yellow breasts have given suck to these, who shall wash their hands in your blood. Revenge was determined by the surviving villains. They watched their opportunity, when he was passing through these parts from Montgomeryshire assizes, to way-lay him, in the thick woods of Mowddwy, at a place now called, from the deed, Llydiart y Barwn; where they had cut down seve∣ral long trees, to cross the road, and impede the passage. They then discharged on him a shower of arrows; one of which stick∣ing in his face, he took out, and broke. After this, they attacked him with bills and javelins, and left him slain, with above thirty wounds. His son-in-law, John Llwyd, of Ceisgwyn, defended him to the last; but his cowardly attendants fled on the first onset. His death gave peace to the country; for most rigorous justice ensued; and the whole nest of banditti was extirpated, many by the hand of justice; and the rest fled, never to return.

THE traditions of the country respecting these banditti, are still extremely strong. I was told that they were so feared, that travellers did not dare to go the common road to Shrewsbury, but passed over the summits of the mountains, to avoid their haunts. The inhabitants placed scythes in the chimneys of their houses, to prevent the felons coming down to surprize them in the night; some of which are to be seen to this day. This race was distin∣guished by the titles Gwyllied y Dugoed, and Gwilliaid Cochion Mowddwy, i. e. The Banditti of the Black Wood, and The red-headed Banditti of Mowddwy.

LEAVE Dinas, and take the road towards Dolgelleu. Pass by some deserted lead mines; which, as yet, have never been worked

with success. I may here mention an earth, which this place is noted for,* 2.92 a bluish ochre, which the shepherds wet, and pound in a mortar, then form into balls, and use in marking their sheep. An old proverb of the three things which Mowddwy wishes to send out of the country, shews their long knowlege of it.

O Fowddy ddu ni ddaw, dim allan A ellir i rwystraw, Oad tri pheth helaeth hylaw Dyn atgas, NOD GLAS, a gwlaw* 2.93.

ABOUT three miles from Dinas, leave on the left the vast sheep farm of Pennant-higi: a deep bottom, environed on three sides by vast mountains, forming a noble theatre. This whole country abounds in sheep and cattle; and the wool is manufactured in all parts into flannel and stockings.

ASCEND a steep hill, into the pass Bwlch Oer-ddyrws;* 2.94 and the country beyond suddenly assumes a new face. Before us is a vast extent of dreary slope, bounded by vast rocky mountains; among which, Cader Idris soars pre-eminent.

THIS pass is noted for being one of the three places,* 2.95 in which were assembled, six years after the wars of Glyndwr, all the great men of certain districts, in order to enforce the observation of justice by their own weight, without any other legal sanction. This, perhaps, was occasioned by the merciless laws enacted against the Welsh by Henry IV. At each of these places, they en∣tered into a compact to cause justice to be done for all wrongs

inflicted, before and after the wars, but not during that turbulent period. Every one was to have his goods, or land, which had been forced from him, restored without law-suit; and any goods detained after this, were to be deemed as stolen: or if his lord sold them, he was fined ten pounds, and the goods, or their va∣lue, to the owner. If the refractory person was hanged, or died a natural death, the demand lay good against the wife, heirs, or executors: but if they or she denied the demand, the plaintiff must procure his compurgators, viz. six persons with him, to swear to the right of his clame; but (like the English, in cases of jury) the defendant had a right to challenge one of the six; and another was to be provided in his stead.

AFTER this, follow various regulations for restoring the go∣vernment of the country in general; and several laws relative to waifs and estrays, vagrants, bail, recovery of debts, manslaughter, thefts, duty of officers, &c. The code concludes with valuation of several goods and chattels, for which satisfaction was to be made. For example, a horse and mare, on the oath of the owner and two neighbors, were valued at ten shillings; a foal at twenty pence; an ox at a mark; a cow at ten shillings; the hire of an ox, and the milk of a cow, were also valued; an ewe was esteemed at sixteen pence, her wool at four pence, her milk at two pence, and her lamb at eight pence.

As a proof of the high value of arms, and that we had few manufactures of that kind, a two-handed sword was valued at ten shillings, a one-handed at six shillings and eight pence, and a steel buckler at two shillings and eight pence: but, what is very

singular; a bow, which themselves could make, was valued at sixteen pence, and an arrow at six pence.

To all these laws, no penalty was annexed for the breach; ex∣cept the forfeiture of the benefit of the compact, which, in those unsettled times, was probably sufficient, as it left the party unsup∣ported and friendless.

DESCEND from hence,* 2.96 along very bad stoney roads, to Dol∣gelleu; every entrance to which is barred by a turnpike, in imi∣tation of other places; and every approach mended for a short space, by help of the scanty tolls. The town is small; the streets disposed in a most irregular manner; but the situation is in a beautiful vale, fertile, well wooded, and embellished with num∣bers of pretty seats, and watered by the river Onion; over which, on account of its floods, is a bridge of several arches. The town takes its name from its being placed in a dale abundant in hazels. It has nothing in it remarkable but the church, which, notwith∣standing it is pew-less, is a good building. Within is the monu∣ment of Meiric Vychan ap Ynyr Vychan, of the neighboring house of Nanney, fifth in descent from prince Cadwgan, son of Bleyddyn ap Cynvyn, who resided there, and in whose posterity it continues to this time; He is armed in a close mail helmet and neck-guard, sword in hand, and with a short mantle over the rest of his armour.

Cader Idris rises immediately above the town,* 2.97 and is generally the object of the traveller's attention. I skirted the mountain for about two miles, left on the right the small lake of Llyn Gwernan, and began the ascent along a narrow steep horse-way, perhaps the highest road in Britain, being a common passage even for loaden

horses, into Llan-vibangel-y-Pennent, a vale on the other side. On gaining the brow of the hill, I found it to be a very extensive pasture of coarse grass, mixed with a little bog. The hill slopes from hence upwards: the steeper part to the highest peak, or the Pen yr Cader, grows more and more rocky: the approach to the summit extremely so, and covered with huge fragments of disco∣lored rocks, very rugged, and cemented by a semivitrified mat∣ter, which gives them a very vulcanic look, added to their dis∣joined, adventitious appearance. I met with, on my ascent, quantities of pumice, of the same cellular kind with the toadstone of Derbyshire, but of a green color. The day proved so wet and misty, that I lost the enjoyment of the great view from the summit. I could only see that the spot I was on was a rude ag∣gregate of strangely disordered masses. I could at intervals per∣ceive a stupendous precipice on one side, where the hill recedes inwards, forming a sort of theatre, with a lake at the bottom; yet very high, in comparison of the base of the mountain. On the other side, at a nearer distance, I saw Craig Cay, a great rock, with a lake beneath, lodged in a deep hollow; possibly the crater of an antient Vulcano. This is so excellently expressed by the ad∣mirable pencil of my kinsman, Mr. Wilson, that I shall not at∣tempt the description.

IN descending from the Cader; I kept on the edge of the greater precipice, till I came near the Cyfrwy, another peak. The whole space, for a considerable way, was covered with loose stones, in the form of a stream, sloping from the precipitous side. Multi∣tudes of them were columnar,* 2.98 but not jointed, square, or penta∣gonal; none erect, but lying very disorderly, in all directions.

Some appeared hanging down the face of the precipice; the ends of others were peeping out at a vast depth beneath me, which shewed the great thickness of the stream. I wish the day had been more favorable; but I hope another traveller will surround the whole, and make a more satisfactory relation of this moun∣tain, than I have been able to do.

IN respect to the heights of this mountain,* 2.99 and those of Aran Benllyn, and the Arrenig Vawr, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the assistance of the ingenious Mr. Meredith Hughes, of Bala; who assures me, that the Pen y Gader is nine hundred and fifty yards higher than the green near Dolgelleu; Aran Benllyn, seven hundred and forty above Llyn-tegid; and the Ar∣renig, only twenty yards short of the Aran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelleu-Green, is one hundred and eighty yards; so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Aran, is only thirty yards.

AFTER recovering the fatigue of this journey, I began another, in order to encircle the vast base of the mountain. I took the same road as I did before; and continued my ride beneath Tyrrau Mawr, one of the points of Cader Idris, the highest rock I ever rode under. Beyond, on the right, are the two pools called Llynian Cregenan; and not far distant, are some remains of circles of upright stones, with many carns; a vast stone, raised erect on the top of a neighboring rock; and several maeni hirion, or rude upright columns.

AT some distance beyond these,* 2.100 near the river Kregennan, I saw the remains of Llys Bradwen, the court or palace of Ednowain, chief of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, either in the

reign of Gryffydd ap Cynan, or soon after. The reliques are about thirty yards square: the entrance about seven feet wide, with a large upright stone on each side, by way of door-case: the walls with large stones, uncemented by any mortar: in short, the structure of this palace shews the very low state of architecture in those times: it may be paralleled only by the artless fabrick of a cattle house.

Ednyfed ap Aaren, a descendant of this great man, had the ho∣nor of entertaining Owen Glyndwr, in one of his sad reverses of fortune; and is said to have concealed him from the pursuit of his enemies, in the parish of Llan Gelynln, in a cave, to this day called Ogof Owain.

I MUST not lead the reader into a belief, that every habitation, of these early times, were equal in magnificence to that of Ednowain ap Bradwen. Those of inferior gentry were formed of wattles, like Indian wigwams, or Highland hovels; without gar∣dens or orchard, and formed for removal from place to place, for the sake of new pasture, or a greater plenty of game. The fur∣niture was correspondent; there were neither tables, nor cloths, nor napkins* 2.101; but this is less wonderful, since we find, that even so late as the time of Edward II. straw was used in the royal apartment† 2.102. * 2.103 Notwithstanding this, the utmost hospitality was preserved: every house was open, even to the poorest person. When a stranger entered, his arms were taken from him, and layed by; and, after the scriptural custom, water was brought to

wash his feet. The fare was simple; the meal did not consist of an elegant variety, but of numbers of things put together in a large dish: the bread was thin oat-cakes, such as are common in our mountanous parts at this time. The family waited on the guests, and never touched any thing till they had done, when it took up with what was left. Music, and the free conversation of the young women, formed the amusements of the time; for jealousy was unknown among us. Bands of young men, who knew no profession but that of arms, often entered the houses, and were welcome guests; for they were considered as the volun∣tary defenders of the liberties of their country. They mixed with the female part of the family, joined their voices to the melody of the harp, and consumed the day with the most animated festi∣vity. At length, sunk into repose, not under rich testers, or on downy beds, but along the sides of the room, on a thin covering of dried reeds, placed round the great fire, which was placed in the centre, they lay down promiscuously, covered only by a coarse home-made cloth, called Brychan, or plaid, the same with the more antient Bracha; and kept one another warm, by lying close together; or should one side lose its genial heat, they turn about, and give the chilly side to the fire* 2.104.

SOME vein of the antient minstrelsie is still to be met with in these mountanous countries.* 2.105 Numbers of persons, of both sexes, assemble, and sit around the harp, singing alternately pennylls, or stanzas of antient or modern poetry. The young people usually begin the night with dancing, and when they are tired, sit down,

and assume this species of relaxation. Oftentimes, like the mo∣dern Improvisitore of Italy, they will sing extempore verses. A person conversant in this art, will produce a pennyll apposite to the last which was sung: the subjects produce a great deal of mirth; for they are sometimes jocular, at others satyrical, and many amorous. They will continue singing without intermission, and never repeat the same stanza; for that would occasion the loss of the honor of being held first of the song. Like nightin∣gales, they support the contest throughout the night: Certant in∣ter se, palamque animosa contentio—victa morte finit saepe vitam, spiritu prius deficiente quam cantu, may almost be added. The au∣dience usually call for the tune: sometimes only a few can sing to it; and in many cases the whole company: but when a party of capital singers assemble, they rarely call for a tune; for it is indifferent to them, what tune the harper plays. Pa∣rishes often contend against parishes; and every hill is vocal with the chorus.

CONTINUE the ride, as before, between high mountains, in a narrow glen. Quit the narrow pass, and go along a good road, formed on the sides of the hills, with a fine slope from it to the sea, at this time strangely mottled with black and green, varied by the light through the broken clouds. The road now passes between verdant and smooth hills, the great sheep walks of the country; they are round at their tops, and covered with flocks, which yield the materials for the neighboring manufactures. From a place called Allt-Lwyd, have a very full view of the flat called Towyn Meirionydd, a mixture of meadow land and black turbery, watered by the Dysynni, which falls into the sea a few

miles lower. On one side is the village and church of Tywyn,* 2.106 or Towyn. The rectory is an impropriation in the bishop of Lich∣field: the vicarage formerly belonged to the nunnery of Barking, in Essex, now in the patronage of the bishop of Bangor. I neg∣lected visiting this place; but believe my trouble would not have been thrown away; for I find, among Mr. Llwyd's papers* 2.107, the drawing of the sepulchral effigies of a churchman, another of a warrior, and two rude pillars, one seven feet high, with the figure of the cross, and an inscription on each side, in old characters. Another column, marked likewise with a cross, but inscribed with letters of a different form, is drawn in the same collection, from one in the church-yard of Llanvihangel y Traetheu, in this county.

FROM the place where I made this digression, I descended a sleep path through fields; and, crossing the river, dined on a great stone beneath the vast rock Craig y Deryn,* 2.108 or The Rock of Birds, so called from the numbers of corvorants, rock pigeons, and hawks, which breed on it. At the foot is a prodigious stream of stones, which extend some hundreds of yards from the bottom of the rock, and is formed by the continual lapse of fragments from it. Here the Towyn is contracted into a fertile vale, which extends about two miles further. Near its end is a long and high rock, narrow on the top. Here stood the castle of Teberri,* 2.109 which extended lengthways over the whole surface of the summit, and was a fortress of great strength and extent. The most complete apartment was thirty-six feet broad, and was cut out of the rock on two sides; for much of it is hollowed. In some parts, the

precipices, skirted by a wall, formed the defence. The remain∣ing walls are well built: the stones squared: the mortar, shells, and gravel, but at present very rotten. The whole of this place is so overgrown with bushes, as to render the survey very diffi∣cult. It lies in the parish of Llan vi hangel y Pennant, and is said to have been once defended by a Coch o'r Pennant, or The Red, of that place.

THIS probably was the castle Bere belonging to our last Llewelyn, which was taken, not long before the final conquest of Wales, by William de Valence, earl of Pembroke* 2.110. This seems to have been likewise the same which was committed by Edward I. to the custody of Robert Fitzwalter, who had, at the same time, the liberty of hunting all kinds of wild beasts in this county† 2.111. It is fit to mention this, as there was another strong fortress in Cardiganshire, of a similar name.

RETURN about half a mile,* 2.112 and ride several miles along the pretty vale of Tal y Llyn; very narrow, but consisting of fine mea∣dows, bounded by lofty verdant mountains, very steeply sloped. Went by Llyn y Myngil, a beautiful lake, about a mile long, which so far fills the valley, as to leave only a narrow road on one side. Its termination is very picturesque; for it contracts gradually into the form of a river, and rushes through a good stone arch into a narrow pass, having on one side the church, on the other a few cottages, mixed with trees. The church, and that of Llanvehan∣gel y Pennant, are chapels to Towyn‡ 2.113.

ADJACENT to this valley,* 2.114 at a place called Llwyn Dôol Ithel, in the year 1684, was found, in digging turf about three yards deep, a coffin, made of deal, about seven feet long, carved and gilt at both ends. Two skeletons, supposed of different sexes, were found in it, placed with the head of the one parallel to the feet of the other; the bones were moist; and tough, and of an uncom∣mon size, the thigh bones being twenty-seven inches long. Within a yard of the coffin, were found two other skeletons, of the same dimensions with the former, layed on the bare clay; and within two roods of them, a grave, with a skeleton of the usual size. Along the graves and coffin were layed hazel rods, with the bark on, and so tough, as to be flexible† 2.115. The high preservation of these rods, and the toughness of the bones, were owing to the bituminous quality of the turbery in which they were deposited. The rods were placed for some superstitious purpose, perhaps to avert the power of witchcraft, since a double hazel-nut, in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland, is to this day supposed to have that virtue.

A FEW miles beyond Tal y Llyn church, the hills almost meet at their bottoms, and change their aspect. No verdure now is to be seen, but a general appearance of rude and savage nature. The sides are broken into a thousand crags; some spiring and sharp pointed; but the greater part project forward, and impend in such a manner, as to render the apprehension of their fall tre∣mendous. A few bushes grow among them; but the dusky color

of them, as well as the rocks, only served to add horror to the scene.

ONE of the precipices is called Pen y Delyn,* 2.116 from some resem∣blance it has to a harp. Another is styled Llam y Lladron, or The Thieves Leap, from a tradition that thieves were brought there, and thrown down. I have no doubt but that such a punishment might have been inflicted from this Welsh Tarpeian, by order of an arbitrary lord; but we formerly very rarely used capital punish∣ments, for any crime; not but the gallows was in use for theft* 2.117, but fines were accepted in almost all instances, even in cases of murder; which gave rise to private revenge, and brought on a train of endless feuds and bloodshed.

ON the left, is the rugged height of Cader Idris,* 2.118 pass near a small lake, called Llyn y tri Graienyn, or of the three grains; which are three vast rocks, the ruins of the neighboring mountain, which some time or other had fallen into the water. These, say the peasants, were the three grains which had fallen into the shoe of the great Idris, which he threw out here, as soon as he felt them hurting his foot.

PASS over Bwlch Coch,* 2.119 and, after descending a very bad road, again reach Dolgelleu; from whence I visited Nanney, the antient seat of the antient family of the Nanneys, now of the Vaughans. The way to it is a continual ascent of two miles; so perhaps it is the highest situation of any gentleman's house in Britain. The estate is covered with fine timber, which clothe all the sides of the dingles for many miles. On the road side is a venerable oak, in its last stage

of decay, and pierced by age into the form of a gothic arch; yet its present girth is twenty-seven feet and a half. The name is very classical, Derwen Ceubren yr Ellyll, the hollow oak, the haunt of daemons. How often has not warm fancy seen the fairy tribe revel round its trunk! or may not the visionary eye have seen the Hamadryad burst from the bark of its coeval tree?

ABOVE Nanney is a high rock, with the top incircled with a dike of loose stones. This had been a British post, the station, perhaps, of some tyrant, it being called Moel Orthrwm, or the hill of oppression.

THE park of Nanney is remarkable for its very small, but very excellent venison. I have before mentioned the ruins of the house of Howel Sele, within this park, and related his unfortunate history* 2.120.

RETURN through Dolgelleu; and about a mile beyond, on a rising spot, have a beautiful view of three vales, finely bounded by hills, and embellished with gentlemen's houses; finely watered by the junction of the Onion and the Maw, or Mowdach. I was diverted from taking the direct road to Barmouth, by the great deference I always found reason to pay to the judgement of a gentleman, who, a few years ago, honored our country with his remarks† 2.121, and has made a particular euloge on the cascades of Glyn-Maw. Let me add, that the consideration of ending this little excursion at the hospitable house of Mr. Garnons, of Rhiw Goch was another spur to my design.

CROSS the bridge of Llan Elltyd. Below is a fine tract of mea∣dow, wretchedly deformed by the necessity of digging into them for turf, the fuel of the country. The tide flows within a small distance of this place; and on the banks I saw a small sloop, ready to be launched. On the left is the church of Llan-Elltyd: on the right, in a rich flat, stand the remains of the abbey of Cymmer.* 2.122 Part of the church is still to be seen, and shews its an∣tient grandeur. At the east end are three lofty, but very narrow windows, pointed at top; and over them three lesser, mantled in a great and gloomy thicket of ivy. The great hall, and part of the abbot's lodgings, now form a farm-house.

THIS had been an abbey of Cistercians, founded (not by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, as has been supposed, who only confirmed the dona∣tions, as prince of Wales) but by the two princes Meredydd and Gryffydd, the sons of Conan and Howel, the son of Gryffydd, about the year 1198. In the charter of Llewelyn, in 1209, is mention of their benefactions, of his own, and of the boundaries of the abbey lands* 2.123; which shew it had been founded by other persons. This charter is most ample, over rivers, lakes, and sea; birds, and wild beasts and tame; over all mountains, woods, things moveable and immoveable; and over all things under and over the lands so granted; and gives liberty of digging for metals and hidden treasures: all which was done in presence of Esau, then lord abbot, and others, religious of the house † 2.124. At the dissolution, its re∣venues

were valued at fifty-one pounds thirteen shillings and six pence, by Dugdale, at fifty-eight pounds fifteen shillings and four pence, by Speed. The only charge on it in 1553, was six pounds thirteen shillings and four pence, paid to Lewis ap Thomas, sup∣posed to have been the last abbot‡ 2.125.

Uchtred ap Edwyn built a castle here,* 2.126 which was taken and overthrown, about 1116, by Eneon ap Cadwgan, and Gryffyd ap Meredydd ap Bleyddyn§ 2.127; and its place is not at present even known.

CONTINUE my journey on a bank high above the Maw. The valley grows soon very contracted; the sides of the hills finely covered with wood, almost to the top; and the river assumes the form of a torrent, rolling over a rocky channel.

ABOUT five or six miles from Dolgelleu, at Dôol y Melynllyn, I turned out of the road, meeting the furious course of the Gamlan, that falls, with short interruptions, from rock to rock, for a very considerable space, amidst the woods and bushes, till it reaches a lofty precipice, from whence it precipitates into a black pool, shaded by trees (which gives to the cataract the name of Rhaia∣der-ddu,* 2.128 or The Black.) A noble birch, placed above, finely finishes this picturesque scene.

CROSS Pont ar Gamlan, below which the river falls into the Maw. Not far from thence, the junction of the Maw and Eden forms another fine scene. A lofty hill, cloathed with woods, ends here, and forms the forks of the rivers, correspondent to the steeps

through which these torrents roll, and exhibits a view like those of the shady wilds of America.

BEGIN a considerable ascent, and find on the top some groves of handsome oaks: before me, a naked country. Descend, through some steep fields, to another set of wooded dingles, that wind along the bottoms, and join with the former. In various parts, Cader Idris appears in full majesty over these sloping forests, and gives a magnificent finishing to the prospect. Soon after my ar∣rival among the woods, another cascade astonishes me with its grandeur. From the situation I was in, it formed a vast fall, bounded on one side by broken ledges of rocks, on the other by a lofty precipice, with trees here and there growing out of its mural front. On the summit of each part, oaks and birch form distinct little groves, and give it a sort of character distinct from our other cataracts. After the water reaches the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes in a narrow rocky chasm, of a very great depth, over which is an admirable wooden Alpine bridge; and the whole, for a considerable way, awefully canopied by trees. This is called Pistill y Kain, or the spout of the river Kain. At no great distance from it, is another (for nature is here profuse in her beauties of this kind).* 2.129 The Maw, for some space, runs along a deep glen, finished by a bare mountain, seen through vistos, formed by the woods on each side. The water tumbles down a series of ledges, of different heights, into a very black and sullen pool, from which it re-assumes its violence, and is lost among the far extending woods.

IN the nakedness of winter, there is a spot, far above, from whence these two cataracts may be seen at once, exhibiting through

the trees a piece of scenery, as uncommon as it is grand. After emerging from these romantic depths, I reach a long extent of woodless tract, the vast parish of Trawsfynnydd, walled in on all sides by lofty rugged mountains, of various forms.

IN a farm-house,* 2.130 not far from this road to Rhiw Goch, I visited Bedh Porus, or the grave of Porus. On a flat stone over it, is the following inscription, copied somewhat differently by Mr. Llwyd, in the Britannia* 2.131:

PORVS HIO IN TVMVLO IACIT, HOMO PIANVS FVIT.

SOME have supposed the P to have been an R, and the word to have been CHRISTIANUS FUIT; but, whatsoever the let∣ter in dispute might have been, there certainly never was room between HOMO and the next word, for the letters CHRIS.

NOT far from it, in another field, is a great upright stone, called Llech Idris. There is some silly legend about it, concern∣ing the giant Idris; but it is no more than one of the monu∣mental columns, so frequent in Wales, and many other parts.

AFTER a short ride,* 2.132 see on a common, for the first time, the noted Sarn, or Llwybr Helen, the causeway or path of Helen; a road supposed to have been made through part of North Wales, by Helena, daughter of Eudda, or Octavius, and wife to the em∣peror Maximus† 2.133.

THIS road is now entirely covered with turf; but, by the rising of it, is in most parts very visible: beneath are the stones which

form it, and extend in all its course, to the breadth of eight yards. There are tumuli near it, in various places, it being very usual for the Romans to inter near their highways. Close to the part in question is one, in which were found five urns: the whole ma∣terials of it are composed of burnt earth and stones, with several fragments of bricks, which had been placed round the urns, to keep them from being crushed.

AFTER reposing a night at Rhiw Goch,* 2.134 adjacent to this part of the journey, I continued it a few miles to Castell Prysor, a very singular little fort, placed in a pass between the hills, on a natural round rock, appearing, at first sight, like the artificial mounts we had before observed. Around its summit had been the wall, whose remains are visible in several places; and in one is the ap∣pearance of a round tower: the facings are very regular, but the work destitute of mortar. Notwithstanding this, the castelet is probably Roman; for multitudes of coins and urns are found about it. The name explains the cause of the want of lime in the walls, Castell Prysor signifying a castle made in baste, so that there was not time to prepare the usual cement. Around its base are the foundations of several buildings, which were placed there to enjoy the protection of the place.

FROM hence I took the track towards Festiniog, and saw, by the road side, Llyn Rathllyn, a small lake, noted for a strange variety of perch,* 2.135 with a hunched back, and the lower part of the back-bone, near the tail, oddly distorted* 2.136: in other respects, they re∣semble the common kind, which are equally numerous in this water. The same are found at Fablun, in Sweden.

NOT far from hence,* 2.137 within the inclosed country, I found a very fine Roman camp, most judiciously placed, in a situation over an extensive view of the country, partly level, partly inclin∣ing from it, and commanding a number of passes to die lesser posts of this mountanous tract. It is surrounded with a ditch and bank, on the last of which are the vestiges of a wall: near one end is a great mount of earth, broken and hollow in the middle, from the removal of the stones which composed the fort: round its base is a deep ditch. This camp is called Tomnen y Mur, or the mount within the wall. Coins and urns are as frequent about this place as the former. Sarn Helen runs into it at one end, and is continued to Rhyd yr Halen, in Festiniog parish, and by the side of Fannod Vawr, and over a farm called Cae Du, to Ffrydd y Dduallt, to the upper part of a farm called Croesor, at the upper end of Cwm Croesor, and through Cae Ddafydd, in Nanmor, and perhaps to Dinas Emrys. The branches are numerous: I cannot entertain a doubt but that one pointed, by Castell Dol Wyddelan, to Caer Hûn, or Conovium; and that by Pont Aber Glas Llyn, and y Gymwynas, or the work done in kindness, may be supposed to have been another, pointing to Segontium. I have before men∣tioned a Ffordd Helen, among the Berwyn hills; and let me add those recorded by the annotator on Cambden, in Llanbadarn Odyn, in Caerdiganshire; and from Brecknock to Neath, in Glamorganshire; which pass under the name of the same princess* 2.138.

CLOSE by the road side,* 2.139 on the common, at a small distance from the camp, is an oval inclosure, about thirty-six yards long,

and twenty-seven wide in the middle, surrounded by a high mound of earth, but without a foss. There were two entrances, one op∣posite to the other; and near one end, a part seemed to have been divided off by a wall, whose foundations still remain.

I RETURNED out of the parish of Trawsfynnydd, along the beautiful road of the preceding day, till I reached Llan Elltyd, when I kept on the side of the hill, above the valley which leads to Barmouth. The ride is very picturesque; the vale wa∣tered by the Maw (known here only by the name of Avon, or The River) which widens as we advanced: the sides bounded by hills, chequered with woods. I found the little town of Barmouth,* 2.140 seated near the bottom of some high mountains, and the houses placed on the steep sides, one above another, in such a manner as to give the upper an opportunity of seeing down the chimneys of their next subjacent neighbors. The town is seated very near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw, or Mawddoch; and takes its name of Barmouth, i. e. Aber Maw, or Mawddoch, from that circumstance. At high water, the tide forms here a bay, about a mile over, but the entrance hazardous, on account of the many sand-banks. This is the port of Meirio∣niddshire, but not so much frequented as it ought to be, by reason the inhabitants do not attempt commerce on a large scale, but vend their manufactures through the means of factors, who run away with much of the advantages which the natives might en∣joy; yet ships now and then come to fetch the webs, or flan∣nels; and I am informed, that a few years ago, forty thousand pounds worth have been exported in a year, and ten thousand

pounds worth of stockings. Many of the webs are sold into Spain, and from thence sent to South America.

IN a former visit* 2.141 to this place, * 2.142 my curiosity was excited to examine into the truth of a surprizing relation of a woman in the parish of Cylynin, who had fasted a most supernatural length of time. I took boat, had a most pleasant passage up the harbour, charmed with the beauty of the shores, intermixed with woods, verdant pastures, and corn fields. I landed, and, after a short walk, found, in a farm called Tydden Bach, the object of my excursion, Mary Thomas, who was boarded here, and kept with great humanity and neatness. She was of the age of forty-seven, of a good countenance, very pale, thin, but not so much emaciated as might be expected, from the strangeness of the circumstances I am going to relate; her eyes weak, her voice low, deprived of the use of her lower extremi∣ties, and quite bed-ridden; her pulse rather strong, her intel∣lects clear and sensible.

ON examining her, she informed me, that at the age of seven, she had some eruptions like the measles, which grew confluent and universal; and she became so fore, that she could not bear the left touch: she received some ease by the appli∣cation of a sheep's skin, just taken from the animal. After this, she was seized, at spring and fall, with swellings and in∣flammations, during which time she was confined to her bed; but in the intervals could walk about; and once went to Holywell, in hopes of cure.

WHEN she was about twenty-seven years of age, she was at∣tacked with the same complaint, but in a more violent man∣ner; and during two years and a half, remained insensible, and took no manner of nourishment, notwithstanding her friends forced open her mouth with a spoon, to get something down; but the moment the spoon was taken away, her teeth met, and closed with vast snapping and violence: during that time, she flung up vast quantities of blood.

SHE well remembers the return of her senses, and her know∣lege of every body about her. She thought she had slept but a night, and asked her mother whether she had given her any thing the day before, for she found herself very hungry. Meat was brought to her; but so far from being able to take any thing solid, she could scarcely swallow a spoonful of thin whey. From this, she continued seven years and a half without any food or liquid, excepting sufficient of the latter to moisten her lips. At the end of this period, she again fancied herself hungry, and desired an egg; of which she got down the quan∣tity of a nut kernel. About this time, she requested to receive the sacrament; which she did, by having a crum of bread steeped in the wine. After this, she takes for her daily sub∣sistence a bit of bread, weighing about two penny-weights seven grains, and drinks a wine glass of water: sometimes a spoonful of wine, but frequently abstains whole days from food and liquids. She sleeps very indifferently: the ordinary func∣tions of nature are very small, and very seldom performed. Her attendant told me, that her disposition of mind was mild; her temper even; that she was very religious, and very servent

in prayer: the natural effect of the state of her body, long un∣embarrassed with the grossness of food, and a constant aliena∣tion of thought from all worldly affairs* 2.143.

THIS instance of the influence of disease (for such only can it be called) strange as it is, is not without parallel.

THE first is the case of a lady, a patient of the late doctor Gower, of Chelmsford, who was confined to her bed for ten years, during which time she had an extreme and constant aversion to all kinds of solid nourishment. She drank a pint of tea daily; and once in three or four days chewed, without swallowing, a few raisins of the sun and blanched almonds, about four or half a dozen of each: she seldom eat oftener than once a month, and then only a bit of dry bread, of the size of a nutmeg; but frequently abstained from food for many weeks together. This lady recovered, by means of constant medical regimen; so that she could walk two miles, without taking ei∣ther rest or refreshment.

I REFER the reader to the Tour in Scotland of 1769, for the extraordinary case of Katherine Macleod, of the county of Ross; and finally, shall mention that of Martha Taylor, of —, near Bakewell, Derbyshire, who abstained from food from De∣cember 22, 1669, for thirteen months, and took nothing the whole time, excepting a few drops of syrup, water and sugar or the juice of roasted raisins. She was also very religious; was much emaciated; her palms moist; her other evacuations very small† 2.144.

I SHALL now mention another singular personage,* 2.145 but less innocent, a native of the same parish with Mary Thomas. This was the noted astrologer, and ill-favored knave, Arise Evans, a character and species of impostor frequent in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. His figure is preserved in the Antiqua∣rian Repertory, and answers the description given of him by his great pupil, William Lilly, of having a broad forehead, beetle∣brows, thick shoulders, flat nose, full lips, a down look, black curling stiff hair, and splay foot. He was a deep student in the black art; and Lilly assures us, that he had most piercing judgement naturally upon a figure of theft, and many other questions, he ever met withal; was well versed in the nature of spirits; and had many times used the circular way of invocating. He then tells how his friend Evans, by means of the angel Salmon, brought to him a deed, which one of his customers had been wronged of, at the same time blowing down part of the house of the person in whose custody it was: and again, how, to satisfy the curiosity of lord Bothwel and Sir Kenelm Digby, who wanted to see a spirit, he liked to have lost his life, being carried over the Thames, and flung down near Battersea, by the spirits, whom he had vexed at the time of invocation, for want of making* 2.146 a due fumigation. These ridiculous impostures were the fashionable credulity of the times; and the greatest men were the dupes of these pretenders to occult science. To shew that Wales was fertile in geniuses of every kind, we must lay clame to the celebrated doctor John Dee, or Dû, who.

was born at Nant-y-Groes, Radnorshire† 2.147, and was sought after by the greatest princes in Europe. Ben. Johnson, in his excel∣lent comedy of The Alchemyst, for a time, gave almost as fatal a blow to the black art, as Quevedo did in Spain to chivalry; but, since avarice and curiosity are passions most difficult of conquest, it rose again with fresh vigor, and maintained its ground till the restoration‡ 2.148.

ON my return to Barmouth, I proceeded for some time along the coast, among shifting sands. Pass near Kail Wart, by a stone, now serving as a foot bridge, on which was this inscrip∣tion: Hic jacet CALIXTUS Monedo Regi. There is no tradition of the place it was removed from.

ASCEND from the coast to Cors-y-gedol,* 2.149 the antient seat of the Vaughans, where I was entertained by William Vaughan, esquire, for some days, in the style of an antient baron. The woods near his house are extensive, but affected by the west winds in a very surprizing manner: the tops are shorn quite even, and the boughs so interwoven, as to form seemingly a close and al∣most impenetrable surface.

THERE are few places which abound more in British anti∣quities, than the environs of Cors-y-Gedol.* 2.150 I first visited Craig y Dinas, the summit of a hill, surrounded with a vast heap of stones, the ruins of a wall, which, in many parts, retain a re∣gular and even facing: this, and some others similar, are the first deviations from the rude ramparts of stone, and prior to the improvement of masonry by the use of mortar. Into this

is an oblique entrance, with stone facings on both sides; and near it are two ramparts of stones. The whole is on the steep extremity of the hill, near to which is a pass into the country.

ABOUT a mile farther,* 2.151 is Llyn Bodlyn, a small lake, beneath a lofty precipice, well stocked with char, which will take a bair, and afford good diversion to the angler. Llyn Cwm Howel is another lake in this neighborhood, noted for a race of trouts (which I have seen) with most deformed heads, thick, flatted, and toad shaped; and which, probably, might give rise to the fabled accounts of the monstrous species recorded by Giraldus.

AFTER passing by Llyn-Irddin, a small piece of water, on a plain, arrive amidst a wondrous group of Druidical antiquities. On the flat appear two circles.* 2.152 The first is about fifty-six feet in diameter, formed of piles of loose stones, with upright co∣lumns, placed at five yards distance from each other, in pairs, so as nearly to divide the circle into four parts. About thirty yards from this, is a lesser, with several upright stones among the smaller, but placed with less regularity. Design, not chance, certainly directed the founders of these circles in the disposition of the columnar stones; but I fear, when I come to speak more fully of them, the cause must remain unaccounted for, by reason of the remoteness of the time, and the mystery of the antient priesthood.

HALF a mile fouth of these, on the side of a hill, are two car∣nedds, of a most stupendous size, containing an uncommon as∣semblage of druidical customs,* 2.153 or religion, in form of Cromleh, Maen Hir, and Kist Vaen. Both are of an oblong form, and

composed of loose stones: the largest is fifty-five feet, long, and twelve high, in the middle. At the east end is a great Crom∣leh altar, composed of two sloping stones, one placed over the edge of the other, upon five flat upright stones, seven feet high in one part, and four feet ten in the lowest. About eight yards from this, is the upper stone of a Cromleh, lying flat on the carnedd, without the appearance of any other support.

ELEVEN yards farther, is another great heap of stones, and in it a large Cromleh, supported with upright stones. It is now converted into a retreat for a shepherd, who has placed stone seats within, and formed a chimney through the loose stones above. In the same carnedd, a little farther on, is another magnificent Cromleh, whose incumbent stone is twelve feet by nine; four vast columns, or maen hirion, three now fallen, and a third erect. The columns are from the height of ten feet four, to that of twelve feet eight; and each between four and five feet broad.

NORTH-WEST of these antiquities,* 2.154 on the top of a hill, is a strong post, called Castell Dinas Cortin, entrenched around, with an advanced work on one side. This, and Castell Craig y Dinas, were doubtlessly formed as defences to the sacred ground, the subject of the above description. I may add like∣wife another object of protection, of the same nature, which I met with on my return to Corsegedol, two great Carnedds, placed on small eminences, near to each other; and within one, the five square flags of a Kist vaen, the top being de∣stroyed. The place is most remarkable for the name, Bryn Cornyn JAU. The neighbors of this antiquity are fond of ren∣dering

it, The Hill of the Horns of JOVE. It more probably was a place of sacrifice before or after the chace, and derived its title from the horned deity Cernunnos,* 2.155 who was venerated by the Gauls, and applied to as a protector from the dangers attendant on the diversion† 2.156 Both the Gauls and Britons had one com∣mon religion; so that Cernunnos might as reasonably be supposed to have a place here as in France.

THIS neighborhood also abounds with Cromlechs of very great size.* 2.157 I measured one, in a tenement called Bryn-y-Voel, which was sixteen feet four inches long, seven feet four broad, and twenty inches thick. It lay about two feet above the ground, supported by small stones, and was surrounded with a circle of loose stones. Most of the Cromlechs of these parts lie very near to the ground, and in that respect differ from those of other places. They lie likewife horizontally, which shews that their object was different, whatsoever it was.

THIS country is in the hundred of Ardudwy. The entrance into it from Trawsfynnydd is called Drws Ardudwy,* 2.158 or the door of Ardudwy, formed by nature through the sterile mountains, which separate the places. I was tempted to visit this noted pass, and found the horror of it far exceeding the most gloomy idea that could be conceived of it. The sides seemed to have been rent by some mighty convulsion into a thousand precipices, forming at their tops rows of shelves, which the peasants, com∣paring to the ranges in a dove cot, style Carreg y Klommenod, or the rock of the pigeons. The bottom of this passage is covered

with a deluge of stones, which have streamed from the sides; and along it is a narrow horse-path, on the slippery rock, formed by the removal of a few of the fragments, which, in other places, are disposed into form of most steep and hazardous flights of steps: and yet, as if the natural and artificial difficulties of these ways were not sufficient to terrify invaders, there are, in one place, the vestiges of a wall, which went across the pass, in which might have been the door which gave name to it.

ON my return, I visited an ordinary house, called Maes y Gar∣nedd, the birth place of the regicide colonel Jones; whose inso∣lence to the neighboring gentry is still spoken of, even to this day, with much warmth. Actuated by enthusiasm, he went every length that the congenial Cromwell dictated; and was a brave and successful officer in a cause, which, after a certain pe∣riod, was the result of ambition, and the foundation of tyranny.

FROM some of the adjacent heights of this ride, I had a full view beneath me (it being low water) of the long range of sand and gravel, which runs from this coast twenty-two miles into the sea. It is deservedly called Sarn Badrig,* 2.159 or, more properly, Bad-rhwyg, or Ship breaking Causeway, from the number of ships lost upon it. This shoal is dry at the ebb of spring-tides, and marked in storms by horrible breakers. Tradition says, that all this part of the sea had been a habitable hundred, called Cantréer Gwaelod, or The Lowland Hundred; and that it was overwhelmed by the sea, about the year 500, in the time of Gwyddno Go∣ronhir.

A SIMILAR accident happened, in some distant period, on the coast of Essex. The canons of St. Paul must be possessed of a

prebend, before they can become residentiaries; and the one usually given is, The Praebenda consumpta per mare, which lay on the coast of that county.

FROM Corsegedol, I pursued my journey towards Harlech; but, on the road, was tempted, by my constant fellow-traveller, the reverend Mr. John Lloyd, to make a small deviation to the right, to visit a near relation of his, who lived a few miles to our right, in his antient territories of Cwm Bychan. We approached it through Glyn Artro, a little valley, watered by a river of the same name, and prettily wooded. The view upwards was extremely pictu∣resque, of a conic rock, skirted by a sweet grove; and beyond soared the naked mountains, which bounded the object of our ride.

AFTER passing through the wood, and ascending Dinas Porch∣ellyn, had before us a wild horizon of rocks and rocky moun∣tains. Even these tracts, unfriendly as they seem to vegetation, had once been covered with venerable oaks; and there still re∣mained a few, between eight and nine feet in circumference. We went under their shade, above a rapid torrent, with a de∣lightful view before us of a true Alpine wooden bridge, and a small mill; and, a little farther, an antient arch, flung from rock to rock, giving passage over a still and black water, shaded by trees. Ford the river again near Llyn Sarph, or The Serpent's Hole. Wind up a rocky stair-case road, and arrive full in sight of Cwm Bychan,* 2.160 embosomed with rocks of magnificent height. After a short ride, high above a lake of the same name, descend, and reach the house of the venerable Evan Llwyd, who, with his ancestors, boast. of being lords of these rocks, at left since the

year 1100. This, and the fortified pass of Drws Ardudwy, were most probably occupied by the sons of Cadwgan, in their contests with the sons of Uchtryd ap Edwyn, whom they at last expelled the country.

The following, as it is the true descent of Mr. Evan Llwyd, and my fellow-traveller, who, being brother's children, are eighteenth in descent from Blyddyn ap Cynvyn, so it is a genuine copy of the form of a British pedegree:

Evan ap Edward, ap Richard, ap Edward, ap Humphrey, ap Edward, ap Dafydd, ap Robert, ap Howel, ap Dafydd, ap Meirig Llwyd o Nannau, ap Meirig Vychan, ap Ynyr Vychan, ap Ynyr, ap Meuric, ap Madog, ap Cadwgan, ap Bleddyn, ap Cynvyn, prince of North Wales and Powys* 2.161.

I WAS introduced to the worthy representative of this long line, who gave me the most hospitable reception, and in the style of an antient Briton. He welcomed us with ale and po∣tent beer, to wash down the Coch yr Wden, or hung goat, and the cheese, compounded of the milk of cow and sheep. He likewise shewed us the antient family cup, made of a bull's scro∣tum, in which large libations had been made in days of yore. The family lay in their whole store of winter provisions, being inaccessible a great part of the season, by reason of snow. Here they have lived for many generations, without bettering or lessen∣ing their income; without noisy fame, but without any of its embittering attendants.

OF this house was the valiant Dai Llwyd, to whom is said to have been addressed the noted Welsh tune, Ffarwel DAI Llwyd, on occasion of his going with Jasper Tudor and Owen Lawgoch, to fight Risiart Frawdwr, or Richard the Traitor, by which name the Welsh stigmatized Richard the Third.

THE mansion is a true specimen of an antient seat of a gen∣tleman of Wales. The furniture rude: the most remarkable were the Cistie Styffylog, or the great oatmeal chests, which held the essential part of the provision.

THE territories dependent on the mansion, extend about four miles each way, and consist of a small tract of meadow, a pretty lake swarming with trout, a little wood, and very much rock; but the whole forms a most august scenery. The naked moun∣tains envelope his vale and lake, like an immense theatre. The meadows are divided by a small stream, and are bounded on one side by the lake; on the other, by his woods, which skirt the foot of the rocks, and through which the river runs, and beyond them tumbles from the heights, in a series of cataracts. He keeps his whole territory in his own hands; but distributes his hinds among the Havadwys, or summer dairy-houses, for the conveniency of attending his herds and flocks: he has fixed his heir on another part of his estates. His ambition once led him to attempt draining his lake, in order to extend his landed pro∣perty; but, alas! he gained only a few acres of rushes and reeds; so wisely bounded his desires, and saved a beautiful piece of water. He found on one side a stratum of fine white earth, about half a yard thick, which I knew was what mineralogists dignify with the name of Lac Lunae, and Agaricus Mineralis.

The Germans use it as an absorbent in dysenteries and malignant fevers* 2.162; and it would prove a good manure.

STOOLS and roots of firs, of vast size, are frequently found near the lake. Mr. Llwyd found one, with the marks of fire on it, which he used to repair the Tyddyn y Traian, or jointure-house of his family; an ancient customary appendage to most of the Welsh houses of any note.

AMONG the mountains which guard the Cwm, is one named Carreg y Saeth, on whose verge is a great Maen Hîr, and Car∣nedd. Saeth signifies an arrow; so probably the antient sports∣men here took their stand, to watch the passing of the deer, which formerly abounded in these parts. Nor have they long been extinct; a person of the last generation informed my host, that he had seen eighteen at once, grazing in the meadow.

THE Welsh had several animals,* 2.163 which were the objects of the chace; such as, y Carw, or the stag; Kaid Wenyn, a swarm of bees; and y Gleisiad, or the salmon. Yr Arth, the bear; y Dringhedydd, climbing animals, I suppose wild cats, martins, and squirrels; and Ceiliog Coed, or cock of the wood. And the last division was, y Llwynog, the fox; Ysgyfarnog, the hare; and yr Ywrch, the roe. Some of the above come very improperly under our idea of hunting, yet were comprehended in the code of laws relative to the diversion, formed, as is supposed, by Gryffyd ap Cynan† 2.164.

I SUSPECT also, that the otter was an object of diversion; there

being a Cylch Dyfrgwm, or an annual payment, by the Welsh, for the prince's water dogs* 2.165.

THE three first were Helfa Gyffredyn, or the common hunt. The stag, because he was the noblest animal of chace; and be∣cause every body, who came by at his death, before he was skinned, might clame a share in him. The next animals were, Helfa Gyfarthfa, or the animals which could be brought to bay, such as the bear, &c. which were hunted with hounds till they ascended a tree. The bird mentioned here, is the cock of the wood, whose nature it is to sit perched on a bough, where they will gaze till they are shot, as they were, in old times, by the bow, or cross-bow.

THE third division was Helfa Ddolef, or the shouting chace, because attended by the clamor of the sportsmen; and compre∣hended the fox, the hare, and the roe. The method of hunting was either with hounds, or grehounds, which they let slip at the animals, holding the dogs in leashes. No one was to slip his grehound when the hounds were in chace, unless he had a hound in the pack, on penalty of having the grehound ham-strung: neither was it allowed to kill any animal of chace on its form, or at rest, on pain of forfeiting his bow and arrow to the lord of the manor. When several grehounds, the property of different persons, were slipt at any animal, the person whose dog was nearest the beast, when last in sight, clamed the skin. A bitch was excepted, unless it was proved she was pregnant by a dog which had before won a skin.

EVERY person who carries a horn, must give a scientifical ac∣count of the nine objects of chace, or else he will be looked on as a pretender, and forfeit his horn. The same penalty at∣tends the Cynllafan, or leash; he is never again to wear it round his middle, on pain of forfeiture; but then he is suffered to wear it round his arm.

THE antient Welsh held the flesh of the stag, hare, wild boar, and the bear, to be the greatest delicacies among the beasts of chace.

THE prince had his Pencynwydd, or chief huntsman. He was the tenth officer of the court. He had for his own supper one dish of meat; and after it, three horns of mead, one from the king, another from the queen, the third from the steward of the houshold. He was never to swear, but by his horn and his leash. He had the third of the fines and heriots of all the other huntsmen; and likewise the same share of the amobr, on the marriage of any of their daughters. At a certain time of the year, he was to hunt for the king only: at other seasons, he was permitted to hunt for himself. His horn was that of an ox, of a pound value. He had in winter an ox's hide, to make leashes; in summer, a cow's, to cut into spatterdashes.

THE king had liberty of hunting wheresoever he pleased; but if a beast was hunted and killed on any gentleman's estate, and not followed and clamed by the huntsman that night, the owner of the land might convert it to his own use, but was to take good care of the dogs, and preserve the skin.

THE penalty of killing a tame stag of the king's, was a pound; and a certain fine, if it was a wild one, if it was killed between

a certain day in November and the feast of St. John, the va∣lue was sixty pence; but the fine for killing it, a hundred and eighty pence. A stag was also reckoned equivalent to an ox; a hind to a well grown cow; a roe to a goat; a wild sow to a tame sow; a badger had no value, because in some years it was measled; wolves and foxes, and other noxious animals, had no value, because every body was allowed to kill them; and there was none set upon a hare, for a very singular reason, because it was believed every other month to change its sex* 2.166.

FROM Cwm Bychan,* 2.167 took the road to Harlech, a small and very poor town, remarkable only for its castle, which is seated on a lofty rock, facing the Irish sea, above an extensive marsh, once occupied by the water. This fortress was antiently called Twr Bronwen, from Bronwen or The White-necked, sister to Bran ap Llŷr, king of Britain. In after-times, it got the name of Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tango, one of the fifteen tribes o North Wales, and lord of Efionydd, Ardudwy, and part of Llŷn. His grand∣children flourished in the reign of Gryffydd ap Cynan. He resided some time in a square tower in the antient fortress, whose remains are very apparent; as are part of the old walls, which the more modern, in certain places are seen to rest on.

THE present castle was the work of Edward I. is a noble square building, with a round tower at each corner, and one on each side the entrance, with elegant turrets issuing out of the great rounders, like those of his other castles of Caernarvon and Conway. It was completed before the year 1283: at lest, I then

find, that a hundred pounds was the annual salary of Hugh de Wlonkeslow, the constable* 2.168; but it was afterwards reduced; for it appears, that the annual fee was only twenty-six pounds thir∣teen shillings and four pence, and in some accounts fifty pounds, which was supposed to be for both constable and captain of the town. The whole garrison, at the same time, was twenty sol∣diers, whose annual pay amounted to a hundred and forty pounds† 2.169. The present constable is Evan Lloyd Vaughan, esq with a salary of fifty pounds a year, payable out of the revenues of North Wales. It was impregnable on the side next to the sea: on the other, it was protected by a prodigious foss, cut with vast expence and trouble in the hard rock.

THIS place was possessed,* 2.170 in 1468, by Dafydd ap Jevan ap Ei∣nion, a strong friend of the house of Lancaster, and distinguished as much by his valour, as his goodly personage, and great sta∣ture‡ 2.171. He was besieged here by William Herbert, earl of Pem∣broke, after a march through the heart of our Alps, attended with incredible difficulties; for in some parts, the soldiers were obliged to climb; in others, to precipitate themselves down the rocks§ 2.172; and at length invested a place, till that time deemed impregnable. Pembroke committed the care of the siege to his brother, Sir Richard, a hero equal in size and prowess to the Bri∣tish commandant. Sir Richard sent a summons of surrender; but Dafydd stoutly answered, that he had kept a castle in France

so long, that he made all the old women in Wales talk of him; and that he would keep this so long, that all the old women in France should talk of him. Famine probably subdued him: he yielded on honorable terms, and Richard engaged to save his life, by interceding with his cruel master, Edward IV. The king at first refused his request; when Herbert told him plainly, that his highness might take his life, instead of that of the Welch captain; or that he would assuredly replace Dafydd in the castle, and the king might send whom he pleased to take him out again. This prevaled; but Sir Richard received no other reward for his service* 2.173.

Margaret of Anjou, the faithful and spirited queen of the meek Henry VI. found in this castle, in 1460, an asylum, after the un∣fortunate battle of Northampton. She first fled to Coventry, and from thence retired to this fortress† 2.174: after a short stay here, she went to Scotland, and, collecting her friends in the north of England, poured all her vengeance on her great enemy, duke of York, at the battle of Wakefield.

THE place more than once changed masters,* 2.175 during the last civil wars. It was well defended by major Hugh Pennant, till he was deserted by his, men. It was finally taken, in March 1647, by general Mytton, when Mr. William Owen was go∣vernor, and the whole garrison consisted but of twenty-eight men. It had the honor of surrendering on articles, and of being the last in North Wales which held out for the king.‡ 2.176

[figure]

Torques

Edward I. formed the town into a borough, and conferred on it grants of certain lands, and other emoluments.

NEAR this place was found the celebrated piece of antiquity* 2.177,* 2.178 on which the learned have thought sit to bestow the name of Torques. It is well described in Cambden, as a wreathed rod of gold, about four feet long, with three spiral furrows, with sharp intervening ridges running its whole length to the ends, which are plain truncated, and turn back like pot-hooks. Whether this was purely Roman, or whether it might not have been com∣mon to both nations, I will not dispute. The use was that of a baldric, to suspend gracefully the quiver of men of rank, which hung behind by means of the hook, and the golden wreath crossed the breast, and passed over the shoulder. Virgil, in his beautiful description of the exercises of the Trojan youth, expresses the manner in these frequently misconstrued lines:

Cornea bina ferunt praefixo hastilia ferro: Pars laeves numero pharetras, it pectore summo, Flexilis obtorti per collum circulus auri.

Each brandishing aloft a cornel spear. Some on their backs their burnish'd quivers bore, Hanging from wreaths of gold, which shone before† 2.179.

THE Torch, or Torques, worn by the Gauls and Britons, was a very different affair, a collar of gold, or other metal, worn round the neck. Our heroine Boadicia had a great one of that precious

metal; and Virdomarus wore round his neck another, fastened behind with hooks, which fell off when the conqueror cut off his head.

Illi virgatis jaculanti ex agmine braccis Torquis ab incisa decidit unca gula* 2.180.

Manlius acquired the addition of Torquatus, from a Torques which he won from a Gaul, whom he slew in single combat, in sight of the army; and Publius Cornelius, after his slaughter of the Boii, took, among other spoils, not fewer than four thousand and seventy golden Torques† 2.181.

THEY were also in use among the Romans, who bestowed them as military rewards; and, as Pliny pretends, the golden on the auxiliaries, the silver on the citizens‡ 2.182. They probably were made in several ways: I have seen a very beautiful one (I think at present in possession of the reverend Mr. Prescot, of Cambridge) composed of several links of silver wire, most elegantly twisted together: it was long enough to go twice round the neck, and had clasps, which fastened it on.

THE custom of wearing the Torques was continued from the more remote periods of Britain, to later times. Llewelyn, a a lord of Yale, was called Llewelyn aur Dorchog, Llewelyn with the golden torques, on that account; and the common proverb, Mi a dynna'r dorch a chwi, I will pluck the torques with you,

signifies, to this day, a hard struggle of a person before he would yield a victory.

FROM Harlech I ascended a very steep hill, and on my way observe several maen hirion, and circles formed of large common pebble-stones, and of different diameters; sometimes appears circle within circle; in other places, they intersect each other. I should have doubted whether they had not been the founda∣tions of Cytti'er Gwyddelod,* 2.183 or the cottages of the wood rangers, a sort of temporary hovels, erected for the purposes of hunting, by our remotest ancestors* 2.184, had it not been for their inter∣sections. The learned Borlase gives instances of such, in the circles of Botallek† 2.185, which he supposes to have been formed for reli∣gious ceremonies; and that one rite might have been performed in one particular circle, and another again in a compartment al∣lotted for it by the superstition of Druidism. Clusters of circles were not peculiar to our island: baron Dahlberg‡ 2.186 has given a plate of similar assemblages, near the town of Wexio, in Smaland, in Sweden, which are on a flat, at the foot of a vast sepulchral tumulus, with a high column, and great globe of stone on the summit. Some columnar stones, or maen hirion, appear in the ranges of stones composing the circles.

THE tumulus is called that of king Ingo: but since the three monarchs of that name were said to have been steady christians, and to have lived in the eleventh century, I do guess both tu∣mulus

and circles to have been of earlier date, and formed in honor 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉 pagan potentate; for the northern christendoms old* 2.187, or 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of christianity, abolished all such customs.

I MUST observe, that this place is called Bon-leff Hir, or the loud shout or cry to battle. Possibly it had been a field of com∣bat, and a chieftain had fell here, for one of the maen hirion is of a distinguished size.

FROM hence the road is intolerably bad and stoney,* 2.188 till I reached Glyn, a house of my kinsman, Robert Godolphin Owen, esq seated in a romantic bottom, well wooded. This had been the residence of the antient family of the Wynnes, from whom it passed to the Owens, by the marriage of Sir Robert with the heiress of the place, in the last century.

PASS by the village of Llan Tegwyn, and near a small lake, filled with that beautiful aquatic, the Water Lilly. Somewhat farther is Llyn-Tegwyn,* 2.189 which well merits the name of Fair and Lovely, a lake about a mile round, whose waters are of a crystal∣line clearness; its margin full; its boundaries neat and clean. The narrow path we rode on, impends over it, and is cut out of a hill, whose sides are composed of shivering slate, starting out at an immense height above, threatening destruction: they were much enlivened by flocks of milk-white goats, which skiped along the points, and looked down on us with much un∣concern.

FROM one of the heights, a vast Alpine prospect appears in view. The stupendous mountains of Caernarvenshire, and those

of Merioneddshire, not much inferior, form a tremendous scenery, and rise divided into a multitude of craggy heads. The last are particularly barren, and appear quite naked, excepting where varied by a mossy verdure, or whitened by the lichen tartaricus. The highest summit of Snowdon, called y Wyddfa, soars pre-emi∣nent. From thence, the mountains gradually lower, to Lleyn, which stretches in view far to the west, and terminates on the point of Aberdaron. Descend into a deep glen, cloathed on each side with trees, with the Velyn-Rhyd,* 2.190 or Yellow Ford, at bottom; notwithstanding its name, a most inky stream; the fine cataract a little above, being most fitly styled Rhaiader-Du, or The Black.

AFTER a short ride, reach the village and chapel of Maen Twrog, dependent on the church of Festiniog, Near one end is a great upright stone, from which it takes the name. This stone is taken into the Welsh calendar, canonized by the name of St. Twrog. The place lies in the Tempe of this country, the vale of Tan y Bwlch,* 2.191 a narrow, but beautiful tract, about three or four miles long, divided by the small river Dwy'ryd, or The Two Fords, being formed by the Cynsael and another stream, which unite towards the upper ends. The vale is composed of rich meadows; the sides edged with groves; and barren preci∣pitous mountains close this gem, as it were, in a rugged case. Here is a very neat small inn, for the reception of travellers, who ought to think themselves much indebted to a nobleman* 2.192, for the great improvement it received from his munificence.

ABOVE it is a house, embosomed with woods, most charmingly situated on the side of the hill. This seat, from the quick suc∣cession of owners by the fatal attachment to the bottle, has oc∣casioned many a moral reflection from the English traveller.

A heavy glutinous ale has charms enough to debauch the senses of the whole principality;

and, let me add, after a certain stage, the fiery dram is called in, to effect the destruction the former had begun; yet I trust that its charms do not fasci∣nate the senses of the WHOLE principality; but that, after a fair scrutiny, there may be found some corner free from the Baccha∣nalian rout.

THE river hereabouts widens into a good salmon fishery; and, after some space, falls into an arm of the sea, called Traeth Bach, or the little sands.

RIDE up the vale, and dismounting, meet the course of the Cynfael,* 2.193 which tumbles along the bottom of a deep time-worn chasm, sided with sharp and rugged rocks for a very considerable space, darkened by trees that overspread the whole, issuing both from the sides and margin. Near Festiniog is one cascade, re∣markably fine, consisting of three great falls, the lowest dropping into a deep pool, black, and over-shadowed by far impending rocks. Below, is a magnificent columnar rock, rising out of the torrent, and called Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynfael. Hugh lived in the time of James I. was supposed to have been a magician, and from thence to have delivered his nocturnal incantations; a place, fit indeed for the purpose as the pit of Acheron.

ABOUT a mile from the Cynfael, is another comfortable inn, which has often received me, after my toilsome expeditions.

Opposite to it lies Cwm Cwm̄orthin;* 2.194 a retreat much more seques∣tered, and much more difficult of access, than even Cwm-bychan. In my visit to it, I descended through woods, along a steep road, into a very deep, but narrow valley, which I crossed, and began a very hazardous and fatiguing ascent up the rocky front of a losty mountain: the path narrow and dangerous, and, I be∣lieve, very rarely attempted by horses. After the labor of a mile, reached this strange habitation of two farmers, in a hollow surrounded on three parts by the rudest of environs, and con∣taining a pretty lake, and two tenements, which yield only grass; so that, in case the inhabitants have any other wants, they must descend from their Cwm to get them supplied. The mountains which inclose it, are the Moel-wyn yr Hydd, and the Moel-wyn Gwyn, and others equally rude. High in the first is the lake Du-bach, which affords perch; and another, called Llyn Trwstyl∣lon; and opposite to the last, a third, called Llyn Conglog; all of which, after hard rains, form noble cataracts down the fronts of the hills. We preferred another way out of this singular place, and wound up a narrow path at the farthest end, on part of Molwyn y Hydd, in order to descend through Cwm Croesor; being then desirous of getting by the nearest road to Pont Aber Glâs Llyn. But in our descent we met with such narrowness of path, such short turnings, and horrible precipices, that our poor beasts, with much reason, trembled in every limb; and, in fact, had a wonderful escape in getting safe to the bottom. The traveller who chuses to follow our steps, will find a narrow grassy bottom in Cwm Croesor, with a few tenements: he will pass through a

pretty wood, and soon after find himself on the high road from Tan y Bwlch to Caernarvon.

IN this journey, I went from Festiniog on a less hazardous way. Not two miles from thence, on the road from Trawsfyn∣nydd to Yspytty, I fell again into Fford Helen, which is here quite bare, and exhibits the rude stones with which it was made.

NEAR it,* 2.195 at Rhyd yr Halen, on the right, are the remains of Beddau Gwyr Ardudwy, or the graves of the men of Ardudwy. These graves were about six feet long, marked at each end by two upright stones; but most of the stones are now removed. There are yet to be seen several circles of stones, the largest about fifty-two feet in diameter; a vast carnedd, with two up∣right stones placed on one part, as if to mark the entrance to the cell, which it probably incloses; and near it a lesser heap, and a small circle; all of which had been surrounded with a larger circle, now incomplete by the application of the materials to the making of walls. The tradition relating to these monuments, is classical; nearly parallel with the rape of the Sabines. The men of Ardudwy, to populate their country, made an inroad into the vale of Clwyd, and layed violent hands on the fair ladies of the land: they carried them in safety to this place, where they were overtaken by the warriors of the vale: a fierce battle ensued, and the men of Ardudwy all slain; but the ravishers had some how or other so gained the hearts of their fair prey, that, on their defeat, the ladies, rather than return home, rushed into an adja∣cent water, called, from the event, Llyn y Morwynion, or The Maiden's Lake, and there perished. That this had been the

scene of a bloody conflict, there is a probability: the graves and carnedds prove it; and the circles evince, that it was in the time when the ceremonies of druidism existed.

FROM hence I descended the long and tedious steep of Bwlch Carreg y Frân, into the narrow vale of Penmachno; and, after ascending another hill, turn to the right into the black and moory mountains, to visit Llyn Conwy,* 2.196 the source of the noted river of that name. It is a very large piece of water, most dismally si∣tuated among rock and bog, and the sides very irregularly in∣dented. It is placed the highest of any large piece of water I have met with in these parts. In it are three islands, one of which is the haunt of the black-back Gulls, during the breeding season. They are so exceedingly fierce in the defence of their young, that I knew of a man who was nearly drowned, in an at∣tempt to swim to their nests, being so violently beaten by the old birds, that he thought he escaped well, with the dreadful bruises he received on all the upper part of his body. The water issues out of the end of the lake, in form of a little rill; but in the course of a few miles, before it reaches Llanrwst, becomes a most: considerable river, by the addition of the various mountain streams.

DESCEND for two or three miles, and reach the village of Yspytty Jevan,* 2.197 or the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem; so styled from its having formed, in the then inhospitable country, an asylum and guard for travellers, under the protection of the knights who held the manor, and made its precincts a sanctuary. After the abolition of the order, this privelege became the bane of the neighborhood; for the place, thus exempted from

all jurisdiction, was converted into a den of thieves and mur∣derers, who ravaged the country far and wide with impunity, till the reign of Henry VII. when they were extirpated by the bravery and prudence of Meredydd ap Evan.

AFTER a very long interval, another charity succeeded, in the alms-houses for six poor men, founded in 1600, by captain Richard Vaughan, a poor knight of Windsor, and descended from the neighboring house of Pant Glâs.

IN the church are three alabaster figures.* 2.198 The first is the va∣liant Rhys Vawr ap Meredydd, of the house of Plâs Yolyn; to whom, at the battle of Bosworth, Henry VII. entrusted the stan∣dard of England, after the bearer, Sir William Brandon, was slain by Richard: a proper respect to the Welsh, who so highly fa∣vored the Lancastrian cause. The next is an ecclesiastic, his son, Robert ap Rhys, cross-bearer and chaplain to cardinal Wolsey: and the third Lowry, the wife of the great Rhys. I may add, that he left several sons, from whom were descended many familes, particularly those of Rhiwlas, Pant Glâs, Giler, and Voelas.

FROM Yspytty I made an excursion to Voelâs,* 2.199 about two miles distant, remarkable for a great column, with an inscription in memory of Llewelyn, prince of Wales, who was slain in the year 1021. Here is likewise a vast artificial mount, the site of a Welsh castelet, destroyed by Llewelyn the Great* 2.200. Mr. Llwyd confesses the inscription to be very obscure. It is part in

Latin, part in Welsh. The last line says, Levelinus optimus prin∣ceps hic humatus; which, if meant of any of the actual princes of Wales, must intend Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt; he being the only one of the three of the name of Llewelyn, of whose place of interment we are ignorant* 2.201.

TURN back, and again reach the river Conway. Enter CAERNARVONSHIRE, And, after a short ride,* 2.202 arrive at its celebrated falls, not very far from its junction with the Machno. The prospect is very ex∣traordinary, from the neighborhood of a fulling mill, where the channel of the rivers form a triangle of deep and doleful chasms, worn by the water through the live rock. Not far below, be∣gins the cataract, the most tremendous I ever saw, and whose roaring gives sufficient notice of its vicinity. The rocks which bound it are of a vast height, and approach very near to each other, and want the pleasing accompaniment of trees, attendant on most of our cascades. One fall is of very great height; and be∣neath that, full in view, is a succession of four lesser. The de∣scent is steep and dangerous, and not to be attempted but by those who have strength of body, and steadiness of head. When down, I found myself environed with naked precipices, faced with angular columnar rocks, pointing in a sloping direction towards the river, adding to the strangeness of the scenery.

DESCEND a steep hill, and arrive in Nant Conwy, or the vale of Conwy, after passing over Pont-or-Lleder; beneath which, the

river Lleder hastens to join thar which gives name to the valley, Observe, in the course of the Conwy, a deep, wide, and still wa∣ter, called Llyn yr Afange, or The Beavers Pool,* 2.203 from being, in old times, the haunt of those animals. Our ancestors also called them, with great propriety, Llost-Lydan, or the broad tailed ani∣mal. Their skin was in such esteem, as to be valued at a hun∣dred and twenty pence; while that of the martin took no more than twenty-four pence; an ermine, twelve; an otter, wolf, or fox, only twelve* 2.204. They seem to have been the chief finery and luxury of the days of Hoel Dda.

THE vale gradually expands from this end, and extends about twenty miles, terminating at the town of Conway. It soon widens to about a mile in breadth, and improves in beauty, especially in the neighborhood of Llanrwst, where it is divided into the most beautiful meadows. The sides of the hills finely cultivated: on the western, the vast mountains of Snowdon rise in a majestic range. The eastern consists of low and broken hills, chequered with rich pasturage, corn fields, and groves. The river mean∣ders through the whole, and before it reaches Llanrwst, is of a considerable size.

VISIT the church of Bettws Wyrion Iddon,* 2.205 or the bead-house of the gran-children of Iddon. Within is the figure of Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch, son to Dafydd Goch, natural son of Dafydd, bro∣ther to the last prince of Wales. He is in armour, recumbent, with this inscription: Hic jacet Grufud ap Davyd Goch, agnus DEI misere mei.

[figure]

DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE.

A LITTLE farther, pass by Pont y Pair,* 2.206 a most singular bridge, flung over the Llugwy, consisting of five arches, placed on the rude rocks, which form most durable piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge. The scenery beyond, of rocky mountains, fringed wich woods, is very striking.

THIS bridge was built on the following occasion: One Howel, a mason from Penllyn, having occasion, about the year 1468, to attend the Merionethshire assizes, then held at Conway, had his passage over the Lleder obstructed by floods. This determined him to remove to the spot, where he built a bridge, at his own expence, and received no other gratuity than what resulted from the spontaneous generosity of passengers. He afterwards moved to the Llugwy, and began that of Pont y Pair, but died before he completed his work* 2.207.

I SOON left the bridge, and, after a steep ascent, arrive at Dolwyddelan castle,* 2.208 seated in a rocky valley, sprinkled over with stunted trees, and watered by the Lleder. The boundaries are rude and barren mountains; and, among others, the great bending mountain Scabod, often conspicuous from most distant places.

The castle is placed on a high rock, precipitous on one side, and insulated: it consists of two square towers; one forty feet by twenty-five; the other thirty-one by twenty. Each had for∣merly

three floors. The materials of this fortress are the shat∣tery stone of the country; yet well squared, the masonry good, and the mortar hard. The castle-yard lay between the towers.

THIS had been founded by some of our princes; but we are ignorant of its origin. There were very few castles in North Wales, before its conquest by the English. They were needless; for Nature created in our rocks and mountains, fortifications (un∣till our fatal divisions) quite impregnable. Had there been oc∣casion for artificial retreats, the wealth of our country could rea∣dily have supplied the means of erecting them. We had the ba∣lance of trade in our favor. This prevented our princes from ever making use of their third prerogative, that of coining* 2.209. Our herds and flocks were the frequent resource of the English, and brought large sums into Wales. Witness the large sums of money we too frequently were obliged to pay, as purchasers of disgraceful peace. Besides, cash was far from being requisite, since, by our laws, every subject was bound to assist in building the royal castles, excepting the husbandmen belonging to the king† 2.210.

Jorwerth Drwndwn made this place his residence; and here is said to have been born his son, Llewelyn the Great‡ 2.211, who began his reign in the time of Richard I. If Dolinchalan castle is, as I

suppose, the same with this, Gryffydd ap Tudor, in the reign of Edward I. had a fee of fifteen pounds as constable* 2.212.

Meredydd ap Jevan, an ancestor of the Wynnes, of Gwedir, in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the lease of this castle, and the inclosures belonging to it, from the executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet; it having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed by his successor† 2.213. Before that time, Hoel as Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into possession of Meredydd, he removed his habi∣tation in Evionedd, a hundred in the county, to this castle; giv∣ing this excellent reason:

I had rather fight with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred: if I live in my own house in Evionedd, I must either kill mine own kinsmen, or be killed by them!

The feuds among the gentry in Evionedd, occasioned perpetual murders; and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti.

THIS gentleman soon reformed the country: he established colonies of the most tall and able men he could procure; till at last they amounted to seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a

jacket or armolet coate, a good steele cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and arrowes; many of them alsoe had horses and chasing slaves, which were ready to answer the crie on all occasions‡ 2.214

.

HE founded the strong house of Penamnaen,* 2.215 a mile distant from the castle. He removed the church, which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security; for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong guard; and another of twenty tall archers to attend him, whenever he went to church; besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Big, to give notice of the approach of the banditti. He ended his useful life in 1525, and left behind him twenty-three legiti∣mate, and three natural children.

THE church had been an impropriation of the abby of Bedd∣kelert; is very small; and has in it a monument, commemorating such of the family who were buried here* 2.216.

IN my return to Pont y Pair, digressed a little up the river Llugwy, to see a noted cascade, called Rhaiader y Wenol, or The Water-fall of the Swallow. The river runs along a strait stony channel, for a considerable way, amidst narrow meadows, bounded by majestic Alpine scenery; then falls into an amazing hollow. The bottom is difficult of access; but when arrived at, exhibits a wonderful scene of mountain and precipice, shaded with trees, which fringe the top, and start even from the fissures of the sides.

CROSS Pont y Pair,* 2.217 and go beneath a very lofty rock, cloathed with wood, called Carreg y Gwalch, or The Rock of the Faleon. Here was the retreat of a famous partizan of the house of Lan∣caster, called, Dafydd ap Shenkin, who lurked in a cave, still named, from him, Ogo Davyd ap Shenkin. The noblest oaks in

all Wales grew on this rock, within memory of man. I remem∣ber the stools of several, which proved that they were equal to any which grow in the deepest soil; yet these rocks are totally destitute of all earth for a considerable way, so that the nutri∣ment which the oaks received, must have been derived from the deep penetration of the roots, through the fissures of the stones, into some nutritive matter.

THE antient house of Gwedir stands near the foot of this rock.* 2.218 It is built round a greater and lesser court. Over the gate-way is the date, 1558, with I. W. John Wynne ap Meredydd, gran-fa∣ther to the famous Sir John, author of the memoirs of the family. This shews 1553, the supposed time of the death of the former, to be a mistake. The place takes its name from Gwaed-dir, the bloody land, from the battles fought here by Llywarch Hên* 2.219, about the year 610; or perhaps from the cruel battle in 952, between the sons of Hoel, and the princes Jevaf and Iago† 2.220; and a third may be added, between Gryffydd ap Cynan, and Trahaern ap Cradog, equally bloody‡ 2.221 The supposition that it was de∣rived from its being the first house in Wales which had glass win∣dows, is not well founded, those conveniences having been known long before. Sir John Wynne himself even mentions a date of 1512, on a window at Dolwyddelan, which is long before the building of Gwedir. But the following lines of a poet, who flourished some centuries before, is still a stronger proof of the antiquity of glass in our country:

Trwy ffenestri Gwydir yd ym gwelent* 2.222. They see me through the glass windows.

ON a rock, high above the Lower Gwedir, stood another, called The Upper, seemingly built for the enjoyment of the beautiful view it commands of the rich meadows watered by the Conwy, and their elegant boundaries. It was a sort of Diaeta, or summer-house, erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1604, who had a classical taste. The walls were covered with inscriptions; and the situation well deserved the panegyric bestowed on it in the following Welsh lines, placed over the entrance:

Bryn Gwedir gwelir goleu adeilad Uwch dolydd a chaurau Bryn gwiech adail yn ail ne; Bron wen Henllys bren hinlle.

A conspicuous edifice on Gwider hill, towering over the adjacent land; a well-chosen situation, a second paradise, a fair bank, a palace of royalty† 2.223

.

THIS has been of late demolished; but the family chapel, which stands near the site of the old house, is still preserved, and service performed in it four times in the year. Among various papers belonging to Gwedir, communicated to me by my friend, Paul Panton, esq is a curious one, drawn up by old Sir John Wynne, prescribing the rules to his chaplain; an odd mixture of

[figure] portrait of Sir John Wynne

SIR IOHN WYNNE BARONET.

insolence and piety* 2.224. The inventory of his wardrobe, drawn up in his own hand, is also worth preservation, as it shews not only the complete dress of a man of rank in those days, but the great oeconomy of the times, among people of fashion, when their wardrobe was bestowed by will, and passed from genera∣tion to generation† 2.225.

SIR John was sent to London in 1574, to study the law; was a man of abilities, and particularly attentive to the antiquities of his country and family. His consequence made him to be taken notice of by the court; for he was made a baronet in June 1611.

THIS place continued in the family till the year 1678, when it passed into that of the late duke of Ancaster, by marriage of Mary, daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Wynne, with Robert marquess of Lindsey; and is now possessed by Peter Burrell, esq in right of his wife Priscilla, baroness Willoughby, eldest sister to Robert, late duke of Ancaster.

FROM hence to Llanrwst is a pretty walk,* 2.226 mostly by the side of the river. The town lies in Denbighshire, on the opposite bank. The approach is over the bridge, the boasted plan of Inigo Jones.* 2.227 It consists of three arches; the middle fifty-nine feet wide: two are extremely beautiful, and mark the hand of the architect: the third differs greatly, having been re-built in 1703, by a very inferior genius. I wish I could do more honor to my country, than suppose him to have been a descendant of this neighborhood: but he seems to have been by birth a Lon∣doner,

a son of a cloth-worker* 2.228, who, in all probability, was a native of this part of Wales; but our country is right to clame the son, which is done by universal tradition of the country. The turn of his countenance, and the violence of his passions† 2.229, at lest legitimate no distant descent. He was patronized by the earl of Arundel, and William earl of Pembroke; and by one or other sent into Italy. His real christian name was Ynyr, which he there changed into Inigo, or Ignatius. Thus, John Cooper, master of the Viol de Gambia to Charles I. after he had been in Italy, assumed the name of Giovanni Coperario‡ 2.230. It is in vain to give the life of a man, which has been so amply written by one of the ablest pens in the fine arts. Let it suffice to say, that the first Sir Richard Wynne procured from Jones the plan of this bridge, of which he was founder, in 1636; determined to do his country all possible honor, by the beauty of the design, invented by an architect to which Wales had at lest a near relationsec; 2.231.

THERE is one circumstance attending this great genius, which deserves mention, as it bears some relation to the country from whence he may have derived his origin. When he was em∣ployed to furnish rare devices, and paint the scenery for the masques of the festive year 1619, he painted the Creigie'r eira, or a scene in Snowdonia, for the masque FOR THE HONOUR OF

WALES. He did it with such success, as to excite the envy of the poet, Ben Jonson; for the scenes were more admired than the entertainment, which might very well be: but Jonson was so offended; as to give vent to his spleen in a copy of verses, as im∣becil as they were rancorous and ill-founded* 2.232.

THE river here makes a handsome appearance, extending in a direct line far above the bridge, and often enlivened with the coracles, the vitilia navigia of the antient Britons, busied in tak∣ing salmon; and in the months of February and March, numbers of smelt. The tide does not flow nearer than Llyn y Graig, a mile and half below the bridge, where, in spring tides, boats of twelve tons may come.

THE town of Llanrwst is small,* 2.233 and ill built; and has nothing remarkable, except the church, which is dedicated to St. Rystyd, or Restitutus, archbishop of London in 361, present at the council of Arles in 353. The ground on which it is built, is said to have been given by Rhun, the son of Nefydd Hardd, to expiate the foul murder of prince Idwal, a son of Owen Gwynedd, slain by order of his foster-father, Nefydd, to whom he had been intrusted† 2.234. Some curious carving, said to have been brought from the neighboring abby, graces the inside. The Gwedir chapel, founded in 1633, by the above-mentioned Sir Richard Wynne, from a design of Inigo, would be another ornament, if not so shamefully neglected. On the wall is a ruinous marble monument, elegantly ornamented with trophies: it was meant

to comemorate the ancestors of the family; but soon promises to tumble into a heap of undistinguishable rubbish.

TRAMPLED under feet, are several brass plates,* 2.235 admirably en∣graven with the heads of several of the family, who rest beneath. Among them is that of Sir John Wynne, compiler of the me∣moirs, who died in 1626. The country people have a tradition, that he was a great oppressor; and accordingly have sent his perturbed spirit to reside in the neighboring cataract of Rhaiader y Wenol. The head of his wife, Sydney* 2.236, daughter of Sir William Gerard, chancellor of Ireland, is elegantly engraven on a plate near him: that of their daughter, Mary, wife of Sir Roger Mostyn, on another. These were the work of Sylvanus Crew. But a half-length of dame Sarah Wynne† 2.237, daughter of Sir Tho∣mas Middleton, of Chirkcastle, and wife to Sir Richard Wynne, by William Vaughan, is far the most beautiful piece of engraving I ever saw: yet neither the names of this, or the foregoing artist, are on the records of the fine arts. Her husband was a gentle∣man of distinguished merit, groom of the bedchamber to Charles I. when prince of Wales, and one of his attendants in the wild ex∣pedition into Spain, in 1623. He left behind him an excellent account of the journey, which was published by Mr. Hearne. He died the 19th of July 1649, and was interred distant from his country, in the church of Wimbledon. A fine head of him, by Jansen, is preserved at Wynn-Stay; and the charming print from it, by that inimitable artist, Mr. Bartolozzi, lays me under very great obligations to Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, to whose

[figure] portrait of Sir Richard Wynne

SIR RICHARD WYNNE

[figure]

LLANRWST BRIDGE.

spontaneous munificence I am indebted for so considerable an or∣nament to the book.

A VERY plain stone records the death of his eldest brother, Sir John Wynne, knight, who died at Lucca, on his travels, in 1614, and was buried there, in the parish of St. John. I have seen numbers of his letters, which shew him to have been a very observant man; some of which may, in the Appendix, be an amusement to the reader.

ONE other tomb, of far greater antiquity than the others, re∣mains to be mentioned; that of Howel Coytmor, whose figure, armed, is represented in stone. He was gran-son of the knight at Bettws; owned Gwedir, which was sold by one of his poste∣rity to the family of the Wynnes,

IN this church is preserved the stone coffin of Llewelyn the Great, with the sides curiously cut into quatre-foils. That prince was enterred in Conwy abby; but at the dissolution, the coffin was removed to this place.

I MADE from Llanrwst two excursions; one to visit Maynan Abby,* 2.238 translated hither in 1289, from Conwy, by permission of pope Nicholas* 2.239, as he says, at the request of Edward I. and the monks. The king bestowed on them the township of Maynan, in lieu of Conwy, and confirmed to them all the revenues and priveleges they before enjoyed, together with various immuni∣ties from taxes, tolls, and duties† 2.240; and besides, gave them the patronage of their antient church at Conwy‡ 2.241 The revenues of

this house, at the dissolution, were, according to Dugdale, one hundred and sixty-two pounds fifteen shillings; to Speed, one hundred and seventy-nine pounds ten shillings and ten pence. The last abbot was Richard Kyffyn* 2.242, who had a pension of twenty pounds a year. The abby was granted, in the fifth of queen Elizabeth, to Elizeus Wynne; and it is still possessed by his descendant, lady Wynne, widow of the late Sir John Wynne, of Glynllivon. A large old house, built from the materials of the abby, still remains.

I RETURNED through Llanrwst,* 2.243 and, about two miles beyond, high over the Conwy, visit the village of Trefriw, where num∣bers of small vessels are built, and sent down the river at spring tides. It is said that Llewelyn the Great had near this place a palace; and, as a proof, several hewen stones have been found, in ploughing a field called Gardd y Neuodd. The church of Trefriw was originally built by Llewelyn, for the ease of his prin∣cess, who before was obliged to foot it to Llanrhychwyn, a long walk among the mountains† 2.244.

FROM hence I went back as far as Gwedir, and ascend a very steep hill, leaving the park belonging to the house on the left. Go over an open space, called Bwlch yr Haiarn, full of turbe∣ries, the providential fuel of the country. Some lead-mines have been discovered in these parts, but none of any consequence. The Gale,* 2.245 or bog myrtle, abounds here, and perfumes the air with its spicy smell. It is a northern plant, but does not extend

far. It is found in Lapland, Norway, and Sweden, and several parts of the Alpine situations of Great Britain. It is called Bwrli, or the emetic plant; and Gnwyrddling, or green plant. Our countrymen use it as a yellow dye. They lay branches of it upon and under their beds, to keep off fleas and moths; and also give it in powder or infusion, and apply it to the abdomen as a vermifuge. It is besides sometimes used as a succedancum for hops.

THE Sorbus Aucuparia, or mountain ash, is frequent in these parts. The poorer sort of people make a drink, called diod∣griafel, by infusing the berries in water. In former times, a su∣perstitious use was made of the wood: a piece, made in form of a cross, was carried in the pocket, as an infallible preservative against all sorts of fascinations.

AFTER gaining the summit, visit, to the right, Llyn Geirion∣nydd, a small lake, noted for having had near it the habitation of the celebrated Taliesin,* 2.246 who flourished about the year 560, in the time of Gwyddno Goronhir, a petty prince of Cantre'r Gwaelod. The history of our famous bard begins like that of Moses; for he was found exposed on the water, wrapped in a leathern bag, in a wear which had been granted to Elphin, son of Gwyddno, for his support. The young prince, reduced by his extravagance, burst into tears, at finding, as he imagined, so unprofitable a booty. He took pity on the infant, and caused proper care to be taken of him. After this, Elphin prospered; and Taliesin, when he grew up, addressed to him the following moral ode, styled Dyhuddiant ELPHIN, or ELPHIN'S Consolation; supposed to have been addressed to the prince by the infant bard, on the night he

was found. I take the liberty of using the beautiful transla∣tion, with which a fair countrywoman of mine hath lately favored the world* 2.247.

ELPHIN deg taw ath wylo Na chabled, &c.† 2.248

I.

ELPHIN! fair as roseate morn, Cease, O lovely youth! to mourn; Mortals never should presume To dispute their Maker's doom. Feeble race! too blind to scan What th' Almighty deigns for man; Humble hope be still thy guide, Steady faith thy only pride, Then despair will fade away, Like demons at th' approach of day, CUNLLO'S prayers acceptance gain, Goodness never sues in vain; He, who form'd the sky, is just, In him alone, O ELPHIN! trust. See glist'ning spoils in shoals appear, Pate smiles this hour on Gwyddno's wear.

II.

ELPHIN fair! the clouds dispell That on thy lovely visage dwell; Wipe, ah! wipe the pearly tear, Nor let thy manly bosom fear;

What good can melancholy give▪ 'Tis bondage in her train to live. Pungent sorrows doubts proclaim, Ill suit those doubts a Christian's name; Thy great Creator's wonders trace, His love divine to mortal race, Then doubt, and fear, and pain will fly, And hope beam radiant in thine eye. Behold me, least of human kind, Yet Heav'n illumes my soaring mind. Lo! from the yawning deep I came, Friend to thy lineage and thy fame. To point thee out the paths of truth, To guard from hidden rocks thy youth; From seas, from mountains, far and wide, GOD will the good and virtuous guide.

III.

ELPHIN fair! with virtue blest, Let not that virtue idly rest; If rous'd, 'twill yield thee sure relief, And banish far unmanly grief: Think on that Pow'r, whose arm can save, Who e'en can snatch thee from the grave; He bade my harp for thee be strung, Prophetic lays he taught my tongue. Though like a slender reed I grow, Toss'd by the billows to and fro', Yet still, by Him inspir'd, my song The weak can raise, confound the strong: Am not I better, ELPHIN, say, Than thousands of thy scaly prey* 2.249?

IV.

ELPHIN! fair as roseate morn, Cease, O lovely youth! to mourn. Weak on my leathern couch I lie, Yet heav'nly lore I can descry; Gifts divine my tongue inspire, My bosom glows celestial fire; Mark! how it mounts! my lips disclose The certain fate of ELPHIN'S foes, Fix thy hopes on Him alone, Who is th' eternal Three in One; There thy ardent vows be given, Prayer acceptance meets from Heaven; Then thou shalt adverse fate defy, And ELPHIN glorious live and die.

FROM this lake I desended a great steep,* 2.250 into Glyn Llugwy, a bottom watered by-the Llugwy, fertile in grass, and varied by small groves of young oaks; very unlike the great woods which cloathed this place, Dyffryn Mymbyr, Llanberis, and other parts of Snowdon, in the time of Leland* 2.251. Go through a narrow pass, high above a raging torrent, falling in broken cascades from rock to rock. At a small distance from hence, enter Dyffryn Mymbyr, a valley in which woods, and even trees, disappear. The small church of Capel Kerig,* 2.252 and a few scattered houses, give a little life to this dreary tract. Snowdon and all his sons, Crib Coch, Crib y Distill, Lliweddy yr Aran, and many others, here burst at once full in view, and make this far the finest approach

[figure]

THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON FROM CAPEL CERIG

to our boasted Alps. The boundaries of this vale are, on one side, the base of the crooked mountain, Moel Siabod; on the other, that of the Gludar Bach, and several other hills of lesser note. The bottom is meadowy; at this time enlivened with the busy work of hay harvest, and filled with drags, horses, and even men and women, loaden with hay. The middle is varied with two small lakes, along whose sides we rode; and at some distance beyond them, near Pont y Gwryd, quitted our horses, to visit the summit of the Glyder, noted for the report the editor of Cambden had made, of the singular disposition of the rocks. We directed our servants to go on to Llanberis, with our steeds. The ascent was extremely long, steep, and laborious, wet and slippery; and almost the whole way covered with loose fragments of rocks, be∣neath which was a continual roar of waters, seeking their way to the bottom.

OUR pains were fully repaid, on attaining the summit.* 2.253 The area was covered with groupes of columnar stones, of vast size, from ten to thirty feet long, lying in all directions: most of them were of a columnar form, often piled on one another: in other places, half erect, sloping down, and supported by others, which lie without any order at their bases. The tops are frequently crowned in the strangest manner with other stones, lying on them horizontally. One was about twenty-five feet long, and six broad: I climbed up, and, on stamping it with my foot, felt a strong tremulous motion from end to end. Another, eleven feet long, and six in circumference in the thinnest part, was poised so nicely on the point of a rock, that, to appearance, the touch of

a child would overset it. A third enormous mass had the pro∣perty of a rocking stone.

MANY of the stones had, bedded in them, shells; and in their neighborhood I found several pieces of lava. I would therefore rather consider this mountain to have been a sort of wreck of nature, formed and flung up by some mighty internal convulsion, which has given these vast groupes of stones fortuitously such a strange disposition; for had they been the settled strata, bared of their earth by a long series of rains, they would have retained the regular appearance, as we observe in all other beds of similar matter.

ONE side of this mountain is formed into a gap, berissce, I may call it, with sharp rocks, pointing upwards, one above the other, to a great height. In the midst of a vale far below, rises the sin∣gular mountain Trevaen,* 2.254 assuming on this side a pyramidal form, naked, and very rugged. A precipice, from whose summit I surveyed the strange scene, forbad my approach to examine the nature of its composition; and whether it might not have been suspected of being formed at the same time with the phoenomena on the top of its neighbor Glyder: for I have heard that insu∣lated mountains of this form often appear at the base of greater, which have been supposed to owe their origin to volcanic force.

FROM Glyder Bach I passed over a plain, above half a mile broad, called Y Waun Oer, The Chilly Mountainous Flat. Ob∣serve from the edge, in a tremendous hollow, Llyn y Boch Llwyd, or The Lake of the Grey Goat; and in the bottom of the valley,

near the foot of the Trevaen, Llyn Ogwen, noted for its fine trout.

FROM Waen Oer we made a most hazardous descent to Cwm Bochllwyd, and from thence to Llyn Ogwen. The way from that place into the valley, or rather chasm, of Nant Frankon, is called The Ben-glog,* 2.255 the most dreadful horse path in Wales, worked in the rudest manner into steps, for a great length. On one side, in a deep hollow, formed under fallen rocks, was once the hiding place of Rys Goch o'r Eryri, or Rhys the Red, of Snowdon; a mountain bard, patronised by Robert Meredydd, a partizan of Glyndwr, an outlawed chieftain, of whose fortunes he partook.I do assure the traveller, who delights in wild na∣ture, that a visit to it up Nant Frankon, from Bangor, will not be repented. The waters of five lakes dart down the precipice of the middle of the Benglog, and form the torrent of the Ogwen, which falls into the sea a few miles lower. This bottom is sur∣rounded with mountains of a stupendous height, mostly preci∣pitous; the tops of many edged with pointed rocks, I have, from the depth beneath, seen the shepherds skipping from peak to peak; but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance they seemed to my uplifted eyes like beings of another order, floating in the air.

THE Trevaen, from this bottom, makes also a very singular ap∣pearance, resembling a human face, reclined backward. Fore∣head, nose, lips, and chin, are very apparent; and you may add, without any great strain of fancy, the beard of an antient inha∣bitant, an arch-druid.

BEGIN another hard ascent to Cwm Idwal,* 2.256 infamous for the murder of a young prince of that name, son of Owen Gwynedd, by Dunawt, son of Nefydd Hardd, one of the fif∣teen tribes of North Wales, to whom Owen had entrusted the youth, to be fostered, according to the custom of the country. It was a fit place to inspire murderous thoughts, environed with horrible precipices, shading a lake, lodged in its bottom. The shepherds fable, that it is the haunt of Daemons; and that no bird dare fly over its damned water, fatal as that of Avernus.

Quam super haud ullae poterant impunè volantes Tendere iter pennis.

NEAR this place is a quarry, noted for excellent hones, of which quantities are sent annually to London.

A NEW and greater toil is to be undergone in the ascent from Cwm Idwal, to the heights I had left. The way lies beneath that vast precipice, Castell y Geifr, or The Castle of the Goats. In some distant age, the ruins of a rocky mountain formed a road by a mighty lapse. A stream of stones, each of monstrous size, points towards the Cwm; and are to be clambered over by those only, who possess a degree of bodily activity, as well as strength of head to bear the sight of the dreadful hollows frequent beneath them.

OBSERVE, on the right, a stupendous roche fendue, or split rock, called Twll-Du,* 2.257 and The Devil's Kitchen. It is a horrible gap, in the center of a great black precipice, extending in length

about a hundred and fifty yards; in depth, about a hundred; and only six wide; perpendicularly open to the surface of the mountain. On surmounting all my difficulties, and taking a little breath, I ventured to look down this dreadful aperture, and found its horrors far from being lessened, in my exalted si∣tuation; for to it were added the waters of Llyn y Cwn, impe∣tuously rushing through its bottom.

REACH the Glyder Vawr,* 2.258 and pass by the edge of Klogwyn Du Ymben y Glyder, as dreadful a precipice as any in Snowdonia, hanging over the dire waters of Llyn Idwal. Its neighborhood is of great note among botanists for rare plants, among which may be reckoned the Saxifraga Nivalis, Bulbocodium, and the Lichen Islandicus, The last is of singular use to the Icelanders. A decoction of the fresh leaves in water serves them in the spring as a powerful cathartic; and yet, when dried, changes its qua∣lity, and if grinded to powder, is a common food, either made into bread, or boiled with milk, or water. Haller and Scopoli also mention its use, at their time, in Vienna, in coughs and consumptions, made into broth, or gruel* 2.259.

THE prospect from this mountain is very noble.* 2.260 Snowdon is seen to great advantage; the deep vale of Llanberris and its lakes, Nant Frankon, and variety of other singular views. The plain which forms the top is strangely covered with loose stones like the beach of the sea; in many places crossing one another, in all directions, and entirely naked. Numbers of groupes of stones are placed almost erect, sharp pointed, and in sheafs: all

are weather-beaten, time-eaten, and honey-combed, and of a ve∣nerable grey color. The elements seemed to have warred against this mountain: rains have washed, lightnings torn, the very earth deserted it, and the winds made it the constant object of their fury. The shepherds make it the residence of storms, and style a part of it Carnedd y Gwynt, or The Eminence of Tempests.

THIS mountain is connected to the lesser Glyder by the Weyn Oer: the traveller therefore has his choice of ways to these won∣drous mountains; but the most: preferable for ease, is the road I descend into the vale of Llanberis. In my way, pass close by a rugged brow of a hill, which I think is Rhiw y Glyder, recorded by LLWYD and RAY, for its variety of plants. From thence descend by Oleu Fawr.

SOON after, visit the small lake, called Llyn y Cwn,* 2.261 noted for the tale of Giraldus; who informs us, that in his days, the three kinds of fish it yielded, trouts, perch, and eels, were mon∣ocular, every one wanting the left eye. At present, there is not a fish in it to disprove the relation. To make amends, the botanist will find in it the Lobelia Dortmanna, Sabularia Aquatica, and Isoetis Lacustris; and not far from it, the Juncus Triglumis, common to this, and some of the Highland mountains. The Hieracium Alpinum, Ruhus Saxatilis, Solidago Cambrica, and other rare plants, are to be met with. In the course of this part of the descent, leave o•• the right Llider Vawr and Llider Vach, two great mountains, part of the boundaries of Nant-Beris; and ar∣rive in that vale by Caunant yr Esgar, or The Dingle of the Enemy.

THIS is a very picturesque vale,* 2.262 bounded by the base of

[figure]

VIEW in NANTBERIS

Snowdon, Cefn Cwm Gafr, the two Glyders, and two Lliders, each of them first-rate mountains. It is strait, and of nearly an equal breadth, filled by some meadows, and two magnificent lakes, which communicate to each other by means of a river. The venerable oaks, spoken of by Leland, are no more. Ava∣rice, or dissipation, and its constant follower, poverty, have de∣spoiled much of our principality of its leafy beauties. Among the numberless errors of this performance, I fear the word is cloathed with trees, must be supplied by the traveller with WAS. But this shadeless tract is still worthy his attention. A road, once a succession of rude and stony stairs, made with much la∣bor, ran on one side, high above the lake, and was often cut out of the rock, to form the way. This is, I am now informed, changed into a road, which too much facilitates the approach, and lessens its propriety, and its agreement with the wild en∣virons.

ON the loftiest part,* 2.263 over one of the lakes, stand the remains of Castell Dolbadern, consisting of a round tower, and a few frag∣ments of walls. It was constructed with the thin laminated stones of the country, cemented with very strong mortar, with∣out shells. The inner diameter of the tower is only twenty-six feet. This seems to have been built to defend the pass into the interior parts of Snowdonia; and it was likewise used as a state prison. The founder is unknown to me; but it was evidently a Welsh prince.

IN this valley are two groupes of wretched houses. The farthest is near the end of the upper lake, with its church, dedi∣cated to St. Peris, who was, as we are told, a cardinal. Here

is to be seen the well of the saint, inclosed with a wall. The sybil of the place attends, and divines your fortune by the appearance or non-appearance of a little fish, which lurks in some of its holes.

FROM hence I took a ride above the lakes, to their lower ex∣tremity. The upper is the lesser, but much the most beautiful piece of water. It is said to be in places a hundred and forty yards deep; to have abounded with char, before they were re∣duced by the streams flowing from the copper mines, which had been worked on the sides of the hills. The lower lake is about a mile and a half long, narrows gradually into the form of a river, called the Rythell, and flows in a diffused channel to Caer∣narvon, where it assumes the name of Seiont.

NEAR this end of the lake lived a celebrated personage,* 2.264 whom I was disappointed in not finding at home. This was Margaret uch Evan, of Penllyn, the last specimen of the strength and spirit of the antient British fair. This extraordinary female was the greatest hunter, shooter, and fisher of her time. She kept a dozen at lest of dogs, terriers, grehounds, and spaniels, all excel∣lent in their kinds. She killed more foxes in one year, than all the confederate hunts do in ten: rowed stoutly, and was queen of the lake: fiddled excellently, and knew all our old music: did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a very good joiner: and notwithstanding she was seventy years of age, was the best wrestler in the country, and few young men dared to try a fall with her. Some years ago, she had a maid of con∣genial qualities; but death, that mighty hunter, at last earthed this faithful companion of her's. I must not forget, that all the

neighboring bards payed their addresses to Margaret, and cele∣brated her exploits in pure British verse.

ABOUT half a mile farther, I visited the remains of Llŷs Di∣norwig, a house said to have been one of the palaces of prince Llewelyn ap Gryffydd: the walls high and strong; the hall twenty-four yards long; and before the house is a deep ditch, over which had probably been a draw-bridge. Not very far from hence is a spot, called Rhiw'r Cyrn, or The Brow of the Horns; where, ac∣cording to old usage, an officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the houshold of the approach of their master, or to summon the vassals to assemble on all emergent occasions.

THIS country is part of the woodless flat,* 2.265 between the moun∣tains and the Menai. Its want of strength is supplied with se∣veral posts, fortified in the British manner. Dinas Dinorwig, about half a mile south of the church of Llandeniolen* 2.266, is the chief. The area is very large, surrounded with an agger of small stones, backed by another of very large ones: then suc∣ceeds a deep ditch, a rampart of earth, a second vast ditch, and a third rampart: within the area is a circle of stones, the post probably of the commander in chief.

IN our way from hence, we passed by another, called Pen y Gaer; and soon after, by a smaller, called Bryn y Castrelau, sur∣rounded with a single wall; and on a rising on the other side of the Rythell, is another, named Caer Cwm y Glo, or Caer Carreg-y-Fran, from which had been (as we were informed) a paved way to Llŷs Dinorwig. I may here add, that after the death of

Llewelyn, Edward I. bestowed that palace on Sir Gryffydd Llwyd, the same gentleman who first brought him the news of the birth of his son Edward of Caernarvon.

RETURN by the same road, and, after refreshing myself with a night's rest at Mr. Close's, agent to the mines in Llanberris, early in the morning begin our ascent to the highest peak, of Snowdon, under the guidance of Hugh Shone, whom I beg leave to recom∣mend as a most able conductor. Keep upon the side of the lake for a considerable way; then turn to the left, and see, not far from the road, Caunant Mawr,* 2.267 a noble cataract, precipitating over two vast rocks into two most horrible chasms. Near this place were found several beads; some of glass, and one of jet.

ASCEND, above Cwm Brwynog, a very deep bottom, fertile in Gwair y Rhosydd, which is composed chiefly of different kinds of rushes, particularly Juncus Squarrosus, the moss-rush, Scirpus Caspitosus, the heath club rush, Schaenus Nigricans, the black bog rush, and Carexes, intermixed with few kinds of grass. The hay which the lower meadows produce, is very different in qua∣lity,* 2.268 being remarkably fine and soft; and consists in great part of the fine bent grass, Agrostis Capillaris. As we are on the subject of grasses, it may be pleasing to observe, how some of them wonderfully change their appearance, as they ascend the higher hills: the turfy hair grass, Aira Caespitosa, sheep's fescue grass, Pestuca Ovina, Alpine meadow grass, Poa Alpina, and some others, which, in the low countries, where they enjoy the due influence of the sun, and length of summer, to ripen their seeds, are propagated in the common manner that grasses are;

as they reach a more exalted situation, where they want conti∣nuance of summer, and the necessary power of that enlivening body, to perfect their seeds, become viviparous; that is, the ru∣diment of the Germen vegetates, and shoots into blade in the cup, from whence falling, it readily takes root, and grows; a kind and providential dispensation, for the advantage of those colder climates, which are less favorable to vegetation!

THIS mountanous tract scarcely yields any corn. Its produce is cattle and sheep, which, during summer, keep very high in the mountains, followed by their owners, with their families, who reside in that season in Havodtys,* 2.269 or summer dairy-houses, as the farmers in the Swiss Alps do in their Sennes. These houses consist of a long low room, with a hole at one end, to let out the smoke from the fire, which is made beneath. Their furniture is very simple: stones are the substitutes of stools; and the beds are of hay, ranged along the sides. They manufacture their own cloaths; and dye their cloths with Cenn du y Cerrig, or Lichen Omphaloides; and another Cenn, the Lichen Parietinus; native dyes, collected from the rocks. During summer, the men pass their time either in harvest work, or in tending their herds: the women in milking, or making butter and cheese. For their own use, they milk both ewes and goats, and make cheese of the milk, for their own consumption. The diet of these mounta∣neers is very plain, consisting of butter, cheese, and oat-bread, or Bara Cyrch: their drink whey: not but they have a reserve of a few bottles of very strong beer, by way of cordial, in illness. They are people of good understanding, wary and circumspect; usually tall, thin, and of strong constitutions, from their way of

living. Towards winter, they descend to their Hên Dref, or old dwelling, where they lead, during winter, a vacant life.

IN the course of our ascent, saw on the left, above the Cwm, Moel y Cynhorion, or The Hill of Council. Pass through Bwlch y Maes-cwm, and skirt the side of Snowdon, till we reach Bwlch y Cwm Brwynog, where the ascent becomes very difficult, by reason of its vast steepness. People here usually quit their horses. We began a toilsome march, clambering among the rocks. On the left were the precipices over Cwm Brwynog, with Llyn du yr Ard∣dwy at their foot. On our right were those over the small lakes Llyn Glâs, Llyn y-Nadroedd, and Llyn Coch.* 2.270 The last is the highest on this side of the mountain; and on whose margins, we were told, that, in fairy days, those diminutive gentry kept their revels. This space between precipice and precipice, forms a short, and no very agreeable isthmus, till we reached a verdant expanse, which gave us some respite, before we labored up ano∣ther series of broken crags: after these, is a second smooth tract, which reaches almost to the summit,* 2.271 which, by way of pre-emi∣nence, is styled Y WYDDFA, or The Conspicuous. It rises almost to a point, or, at best, there is but room for a circular wall of loose stones, within which travellers usually take their repast.

THE mountain from hence seems propped by four vast buttresses; between which are four deep Cwms, or hollows: each, excepting one, had one or more lakes, lodged in its distant bot∣tom The nearest was Fsynnon Lás,* 2.272 or The Green Well, lying im∣mediately below us. One of the company had the curiosity to descend a very bad way to a jutting rock, that impended over the monstrous precipice; and he seemed like Mercury ready to

take his flight from the summit of Atlas. The waters of Ffynnon Lâs, from this height, appeared black and unfathomable, and the edges quite green. From thence is a succession of bottoms, surrounded by the most lofty and rugged hills, the greatest part of whose sides are quite mural, and form the most magnificent amphitheatre in nature. The Wyddfa is on one side; Crib y Distill, with its serrated tops, on another; Crib Coch, a ridge of fiery redness, appears beneath the preceding; and opposite to it is the boundary called the Lliwedd. Another very singular sup∣port to this mountain is Y Clawdd Coch, rising into a sharp ridge, so narrow, as not to afford breadth even for a path.

THE view from this exalted situation is unbounded. In a former tour* 2.273, I saw from it the county of Chester, the high hills of Yorkshire, part of the north of England, Scotland, and Ireland: a plain view of the Isle of Man; and that of Anglesea lay extended like a map beneath us, with every rill visible. I took much pains to see this prospect to advantage; sat up at a farm on the west till about twelve, and walked up the whole way. The night was remarkably fine and starry: towards morn, the stars faded away, and left a short interval of darkness, which was soon dis∣persed by the dawn of day. The body of the sun appeared most distinct, with the rotundity of the moon, before it rose high enough to render its beams too brilliant for our sight. The sea which bounded the western part was gilt by its beams, first in slender streaks, at length glowed with redness. The prospect was disclosed to us like the gradual drawing up of a curtain in a

theatre. We saw more and more, till the heat became so power∣ful, as to attract the mists from the various lakes, which in a slight degree obscured the prospect. The shadow of the moun∣tain was flung many miles, and shewed its bicapitated form; the Wyddfa making one, Crib y Distill the other head. I counted this time between twenty and thirty lakes, either in this county, or Meirionyddshire. The day proved so excessively hot, that my journey cost me the skin of the lower part of my face, before I reached the resting-place, after the fatigue of the morning.

ON this day* 2.274, the sky was obscured very soon after I got up. A vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of the mountain. The prospect down was horrible. It gave an idea of numbers of abysses, concealed by a thick smoke, furiously circulating around us. Very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the clouds, which gave a fine and distinct visto of lake and valley. Some∣times they opened only in one place; at others, in many at once, exhibiting a most strange and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks, or chasms, in fifty different places. They then closed at once, and left us involved in darkness: in a small space, they would separate again, and fly in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, and expose, in parts, both tops and bases clear to our view. We descended from this various scene with great reluctance; but before we reached our horses, a thunder storm overtook us. Its rolling among the mountains was inexpressibly awful: the rain uncommonly heavy. We re-mounted our horses, and gained the bottom with great hazard. The little

rills, which on our ascent trickled along the gullies on the sides of the mountain, were now swelled into torrents; and we and our steeds passed with the utmost risque of being swept away by these sudden waters. At length we arrived safe, yet sufficiently wet and weary, to our former quarters.

IT is very rare that the traveller gets a proper day to ascend the hill;* 2.275 for it often appears clear, but by the evident attraction of the clouds by this lofty mountain, it becomes suddenly and unexpectedly enveloped in mist, when the clouds have just be∣fore appeared very remote, and at great heights. At times, I have observed them lower to half their height, and notwithstand∣ing they had been dispersed to the right and to the left, yet they have met from both sides, and united to involve the summit in one great obsscurity.

THE quantity of water which flows from the lakes of Snow∣donia,* 2.276 is very considerable; so much, that I doubt not but col∣lectively they would exceed the waters of the Thames, before it meets the flux of the ocean.

THE reports of the height of this noted hill have been very differently given.* 2.277 A Mr. Caswell, who was employed by Mr. Adams, in 1682, in a survey of Wales, measured it by instruments made by the directions of Mr. Flamstead:* 2.278; and asserts its height to have been twelve hundred and forty yards: but for the honor of our mountain I am sorry to say, that I must give greater credit to the experiments made of late years, which have sunk it to

one thousand one hundred and eighty-nine yards and one foot, reckoning from the quay at Caernarvon to the highest peak.

THE stone that composes this,* 2.279 and indeed the greatest part of Snowdonia, is excessively hard. Large coarse crystals are often found in the fissures, and very frequently cubic pyritae, the usual attendants on Alpine tracts. These are also frequented by the rock ouzel, a mountain bird; and some of the lakes are stocked with char and gwyniads, Alpine fish. The antient inhabitant, the goat, decreases daily in value, since the decline of orthodoxal wigs, to which its snowy hair universally contributed. Still large flocks are kept for the dairy, and milked with great regularity.

BOTANY is not within my province.* 2.280 I shall therefore say no∣thing more of the plants, than that those species which LIN∣NAEUS so very expressively styles. Aethereae, are entirely confined to the higher parts of the mountains; and notwithstanding the seeds must be blown downwards, they never vegetate in the lower parts, which are deserted by certain plants, which are natives of a higher tract of the same hill.

THE animals of these regions are chiefly foxes. Stags were found here in the days of Leland, in such numbers, as to destroy the little corn which the farmers attempted to sow: but they were extirpated before the year 1626* 2.281. * 2.282 Snowdon being a royal forest, warrants were issued for the killing of the deer. I have seen one from the duke of Suffolk, dated April the 30th, 1552; and another, in the first year of queen Elizabeth, signed by Robert To••nesend; and a third, in 1561, by Henry Sydney. The second

was addressed to the master of the game, ranger and keeper of the queen's highness forrest of SNOWDON, in the county of Caernarvon. The last extended the forest into the counties of Meirionydd and Anglesea, with the view of gratifying the rapacity of the favorite, Dudley, earl of Leicester, who had by letters patent been appointed chief ranger of the forest. In consequence, he tyrannized over the counties with great insolence. A set of informers imme∣diately acquainted him, that most of the freeholders estates might be brought within the boundaries. Commissioners were ap∣pointed to enquire of the encroachments and concealments of lands within the forest. Juries were empannelled; but their re∣turns were rejected by the commissioners, as unfavorable to the earl's designs. The jurors performed an honest part, and found a verdict for the country. Leland, who, no longer before than the reign of Henry VIII. had gone over this tract, as he did most of England, under the royal commission; and yet reports, that all Cregery, i. e. Snowdon, is in Caernarvonshire, and no part in Merionethshire; though, says he, that shire be montanius* 2.283.

A NEW commission was then directed to Sir Richard Bulkeley, of Baron Hill, Anglesea, Sir William Herbert, and others; but this, by the firmness of Sir Richard, was likewise soon superseded. But, in 1578, another was appointed, dependent on the favorite. A packed jury was directed to appear at Beaumaris, who went on the same day to view the marsh of Malltraeth, ten miles distant; and found that marsh to be in the forest of Snowdon, notwith∣standing it was in another county, and divided from the forest

by an arm of the sea; because the commissioners had told them, that they had met with an indictment in the exchequer of Gaernarvon (which they had the year before broke open and ransacked) by which they had discovered that a stag had been rouzed in the forest of Snowdon, in Caernarvonshire, was pursued to the banks of the Menai; that it swam over that branch of the sea, and was killed at Malltraeth INFRA forestam nostram de Snow∣don. The jury appeared in the earl's livery, blue, with ragged staves on the sleeves; and were ever after branded with the title of the black jury, who sold their country.

SIR Richard Bulkeley, not the lest daunted with this decision, continued steady in his opposition to the tyrant; and laid be∣fore the Queen the odiousness of the proceedings, and the grievances her loyal subjects, the Welsh, labored under, by the commission, insomuch, in 1579, her highness was pleased, by pro∣clamation at Westminster, to recall it. Leicester, disappointed in his views, pursued Sir Richard with the utmost inveteracy: he even accused him of a concern in Babington's conspiracy.

BEFORE GOD,

says the Queen,

we will be sworn upon the evangelists, he never intended us any harm;

and so ran to the bible, and kissed it, saying,

We shall not commit him: we have brought him up from a boy* 2.284.

Snowdon was held as sacred by the antient Britons,* 2.285 as Parnassus was by the Greeks, and Ida by the Cretans. It is still said, that whosoever slept upon Snowdon, would wake inspired, as much as if he had taken a nap on the hill of Apollo. The Britons, in very

early times, worshipped mountains and rivers;* 2.286 but that does not appear from the triambics quoted by our able antiquary, Mr. Rowlands† 2.287 for the words Eiry Mynydd are applicable, not to this mountain in particular, but to all which are covered with snow. There are multitudes of these triambics, each ending with a moral reflection, the work of Llywarch Hêen; of which the following may serve as an example:

Eiry mynydd gwangeus jâr; Gochwiban gwynt ar dalar; YN YR ING, GORAN YW'R CAR.‡ 2.288.

While the hill is clad with snow, Fowls for food scream out below, Fierce the winds on plough-lands blow. WHEN DEEP GRIEF AFFECTS YOUR MIND, BALMY CURE FROM KIN YOU'LL FIND.

THE Welsh had always the strongest attachment to the tract of Snowdon. It was, say they the appertenance of the principality of Wales, which the prince and his predecessors held since the time of Brute. Edward I. was told by the inhabitants of Snow∣don, in the treaty he held with our countrymen, in the year 1281, that even should their prince be inclined to gratify the king, in yielding him possession, they would not do homage to strangers, of whose tongue, manners, and laws, they were ignorant§ 2.289. Our

princes had, in addition to their title, that of LORD OF SNOWDON. They had five hardy barons within the tract, who held of them. Such was the importance of this strong region, that when Llewelyn was at the last extremity, he rejected the proposal of Edward, of a thousand a year, and some honorable county in England, well knowing that his principality must terminate with the cession.

No sooner had Edward effected his conquest,* 2.290 than he held a triumphal fair upon this our chief of mountains; and adjourned to finish the joy of his victory, by solemn tournaments on the plains of Nevyn.

I SHALL take my leave of Snowdonia,* 2.291 with some remarks on the name, and the weather. The first is a literal translation* 2.292 of the antient appellation, Creigie'r Eira, The Snowy Mountains, from the frequency of snow upon them. Niphates, in Armenia, and Imaus, in Tartary, derive their name from the same circumstance. Some have supposed it to be taken from Creigiau'r Eryri, or The Eagle Rocks; but that bird appears very seldom among them. The other circumstance is constant: not that it is to be imagined that they are covered with snow in some part or other the whole year, as has been idly fabled; there being frequently whole weeks, even in winter, in which they are totally free.

THE earliest appearance of snow,* 2.293 is commonly between the middle of October, and the beginning of November: the falls which happen then, are usually washed away with the rains, and the hills remain clear till Christmas. Between that time and the end of January, the greatest falls happen; which are succeeded

by others, about the latter end of April, or beginning of May, which remain in certain places till the middle of June, in which month it has been seen of the depth of some feet. It has even happened, that the greatest fall has been in April, or beginning of May; and that never fails happening, when the preceding winter has had the smallest falls. But the fable of Giraldus, con∣cerning the continuance of snow the whole year, is totally to be exploded.

NEAR the end of Nant-beris, pass beneath Glyder Vawr, and observe the strata of a columnar form, high above our heads. At times, vast fragments of this tremendous rock tumble down, the ruins are scattered about the base, and exhibit awful speci∣mens of the frequent lapses. One is styled the Cromlech, for having accidentally fallen on other stones, it remains lifted from the earth, with a hollow beneath, resembling one of those Druidical antiquities. The length of the incumbent stone is sixty feet: the breadth forty-six: the thickness sixteen. The hollow is said once to have been occupied by an old woman; but now serves for a sheep pen.

THE ascent from hence is either over loose stones, or solid stair-case; and is exceedingly steep. It is a singular road, lying in a stupendous chasm, bounded for above a mile by nearly equidistant precipices, of prodigious height; on one side belong∣ing to the Glyders, on the other by the parts of Snowdon.

REFRESH ourselves on a spot called The Gorphwysfa,* 2.294 or The Resting-Place. At a small distance from which is Bwlchy Gwyd∣dyl, or The Pass of the Irishmen; from whence is a singular view of Dyffryn Mymbyr, the chasm we had left; and far below us,

the picturesque vale of Nant Gwynnan, the scene of many a bloody skirmish in the time of Edward IV. between William earl of Pembroke, and the Welsh Lancastrians, under Jevan ap Robert.

DESCEND a very steep road,* 2.295 into that part called Cwm Dyli; where we quitted our horses, and began a most toilsome journey to visit the hidden vales lodged in the bosom of the mountains. We began with clambering up the rugged face of a rock, broken into a multitude of short precipices, and divided in the middle by a cataract, the discharge of the waters from the Alpine lakes. After about a quarter of a mile's labor,* 2.296 we reached Cwm y Cwm Dyli, a flat tract of hay ground, watered by a river, and filled with hay-makers; the farmer and his family being resident here in his Havodtu, for the summer season. After dining with them on curds and whey, we kept along the river's side, and found opposed to us another front, rugged as the former, and attended with a cataract. This was surmounted with equal difficulty. We found, on arriving at the top, a bottom a mile in length, filled with Llyn Llydaw,* 2.297 a fine lake, winding beneath the rocks, and vastly indented by rocky projections, here and there jutting into it. In it was one little island, the haunt of black-backed Gulls, which breed here, and, alarmed by such unexpected visi∣tants, broke the silence of this sequestered place by their deep screams. We continued our walk, ascending along a narrow path above the lake, as far as the extremity; then descending, reached the opposite side, in order to encounter a third descent, as arduous as the preceding. This brought us into the horrible crater, immediately beneath the great precipice of the Wyddfa, in which is lodged Ffynnen Lâs.* 2.298 Its situation is the most dread∣ful,

surrounded by more than three parts of a circle, with the most horrible precipices of the Wyddfa, Crib y Distill, and Crib Coch, with the vast mural steeps of Lliwedd, continued over the other lake and Cwm Dyli. In the Lliwedd was a strange break, called Bwlch y Saethau, or The Pass of the Arrows; probably a station for hunters, to watch the wanderings of the deer.

THE margins of Ffynnon Lâs here appeared to be shallow and gravelly. The waters had a greenish cast; but what is very sin∣gular, the rocks reflected into them seemed varied with stripes of the richest colors, like the most beautiful lutestrings; and changed almost to infinity.

HERE we observed the Wheat-ear,* 2.299 a small and seemingly ten∣der bird; and yet is almost the only small one, or indeed the only one, except the Rock Ouzel, or Mwyalchen y Graig, that frequents these heights▪ the reason is evidently the want of food.

WE descended from this dreary scene, on the other side of the hill,* 2.300 above Llyn Llydaw, having the tremendous red preci∣pices of Crib Coch high above us, rising into a mere ridge, ser∣rated, or rather herissee, its whole length. The face of many of the rocks were marked with large veins of coarse white crystal; and others, especially Crib Coch, were varied with the deep green of the dwarf Alpine juniper. On attaining the top of the hills, above the lower end of the lake, we descend to the Gorphwysfa, where we found our horses, and returned once more into Nant-Gwinan.

THIS is the most beautiful vale in Snowdonia,* 2.301 varied with woods, lakes, river, and meadows; besides the most august

boundaries: being guarded on each side by vast mountains, such as Crib Du, or part of Mynydd Nanmer, the Aran, Lliwedd, Dduallt, and Wenallt, extending about five miles to the church of Beddkelert. On the left, we passed by Havod Lwyvog, the seat of the late Meyric Meredydd, esq surrounded with large woods. A little farther is the pretty lake Llyn Gwynan, about three quarters of a mile long, and near it are the ruins of a chapel of the same name. The chapel had been an ease to the church of Beddkelert, and was supported by a stipend of five pounds a year from the estate of Gwedir. It is said to have been founded by John Williams, grandson of John Coetmor, ap Meredydd, ap Je∣van, ap Robert, of Keselgyfarch and Gwedir, and goldsmith in London; the same who is reported to have furnished Michael Drayton with Leland's papers.

NEAR the end of the lake, the valley grows so contracted, as to form only a narrow streight; but almost instantly opens again into a fine expanse, chiefly filled with the beautiful Llyn Di∣nas. Beyond that, is a tract of meads, chequered with woods, and watered by the river created by the various lakes; but re∣tains the name of Avon Glás-Lyn, from the lofty Ffynnon-Lâs, from which it originates.

AT the bottom rises a vast rock,* 2.302 insulated, and cloathed with wood; the famous Dinas Emris, from early times celebrated in British story; for here

Prophetic Merlin sate, when to the British king The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.

[figure]

DINAS EMRYS.

WHEN Vortigern found himself unable to contest with the treacherous Saxons,* 2.303 whom he had, in the year 449, invited into Britain, he determined, by the advice of his magicians, on build∣ing an impregnable fortress in Snowdon. He collected the ma∣terials, which all disappeared in one night. The prince, asto∣nished at this, convened again his wise men. They assured him, his building would never stand, unless it was sprinkled with the blood of a child born without the help of a father. The realm was ransacked: at length, one of his emissaries overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten knave. The child and his mother were brought before the king. She confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus; a species of being, now unhappily out of all credit. The boy, whose name was Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed; but on confounding all the magicians with his questions, and explaining the cause of the miscarriage, got his liberty* 2.304, and

to that mighty king, which rashly undertook A strong wall'd tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook The great foundation still, in dragon's horrid shape, That dreaming wizard told, making the mountain gape With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep; And from the the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep, Where Dinas Emris stood, shew'd where the serpents fought, The WHITE that tore the RED; from whence the prophet wrought The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue† 2.305.

THIS is the poetical translation of the legend. Merlin,* 2.306 or

Merd••il•• Emris, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble Ro∣man, of the same name. His mother, a Vestal, to save her life and honor* 2.307, invented the fable of his father, which was swal∣lowed by the credulity of the times. Merlin was an able ma∣thematician and astronomer, and deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as usual, ascribed all he did to art ma∣gic; and his discovery that Vortigern had begun to found his castle on a morass, was immediately said to have been attended with most portentous circumstances. Numbers of prophecies were attributed to him; the repetition of which is said to have been forbidden by the council of Trent.

THREE sides of this famous rock are precipitous. On the top is a large area; on the accessible part of which are two great ramparts of stone, and within is the ruin of a stone building, ten yards long: the walls are dry, but strong. Since it is certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have selected this for his strong-hold, as it is admirably adapted for that purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris. A place close by, styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or The Cell of the DIVINERS, allusive to the magicians of Vortigern's court, is ano∣ther circumstance which favors the history of this celebrated supposed prophet.

FROM hence is a pleasant,* 2.308 but short ride, near the river, to the village of Bedd Kelert, seated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at

[figure]

BEDDKELERT

the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Glâs Lyn and the Colwyn, which flows through Nant Colwyn, a vale that leads to Caernarvon. Its situation was the fittest in the world to in∣spire religious meditation, amidst lofty mountains, woods, and murmuring streams. The church is small, yet the loftiest in Snowdonia. The east window consists of three narrow slips. The roof is neat; and there yet remains some very pretty fret∣work. A side chapel is supported by two neat pillars, and gothic arches. I could discover no tombs, nor any thing worth transcribing, but the following epitaph:

Infra jacet corpus Evani Lloyd, de Hafod Lwyfog, Armigeri, qui Inhumatus fuit paterno et avito Tumulo, sexto die Idus Maiae. A. D. 1678. Annos Natus 72.

THIS church had been conventual,* 2.309 belonging to a priory of Augustines, dedicated to St. Mary. There is reason to suppose they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but strictly separated from each other by a wall. The cause of my suspicion is, that I discovered a piece of ground near the church, called Dôol y Llein, or The Meadow of the Nun.

BEDD KELERT had been the most antient foundation in all the country, excepting Bardsey. Tanner ascribes it to our last prince; but it must have been long before his days, there being a recital

of a charter for certain lands bestowed on it by Llewelyn the Great,* 2.310, who began his reign in 1194. It was favored in the same manner by others of the succeeding princes. David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some lands in Pennant Gwernogan, be∣longing to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the prince had no right. This occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor, and Philip, prior of the house, before William de Grandison and R. de Stanedon, at Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the convent† 2.311. The prior had for his support the grange of Llecheidior and part of a mill, the grange of Fentidilt and village of Gwehelyn, the grange of Tre'rbeirdd, one plough land, and a certain share of the bees. The esteem which these insects were held in by the antient Britons, on account of their pro∣ducing the nectareous Medd, was so great, that they considered them as created in PARADISE; that when they quitted it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself; and therefore, no mass ought to be celebrated, but by the light of their wax‡ 2.312.

THE prior had besides, an allowance of fifty cows and twent-two sheep. The expences of the house must have been large. It lay on the great road from England and West Wales into North Wales, and from Ireland and North Wales into England. In order to enable this place to keep its usual hospitality, after it had suffered, in 1283, by a casual fire, Edward I. most mu∣nificently repaired all the damages; and bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other benefactors, re∣mitted

to all such who were truly repentant of their sins, forty days of any penance inflicted on them* 2.313.

IN 1535, it was bestowed, by Henry VIII. on the abby of Chertsey, in Surry; and in 1537, it was given with the last, as an appertenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire† 2.314. On the dissolu∣lution, the king gave to the family of the Bodvels, all the lands in Caernarvonshire which belonged to this priory; and all those in Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the township of Tre'rbeirdd.‡ 2.315. The revenues of Bedd Kelert were valued by Dugdale at seventy pounds three shillings and eight pence; by Speed, at sixty-nine pounds three shillings and eight pence. Ed∣ward Conway is mentioned as last prior. There are not the lest reliques of the house.

IN order to complete the mountain ramble, as far as was in my power, I made an excursion from this village up a narrow vale. Ascend a steep road, amidst a thin hanging wood; and see from the road multitudes of black cattle, desending from all parts, on their way to a neighboring fair. The vale expands; is watered by the Colwyn, which flows from a small lake we passed by, called Llyn Cader.* 2.316 Left on the right another ascent to the Wyddfa, where its base extends to a considerable breadth, and is far less steep than that on the side of Nant-Beris. We soon reached the pretty lake of Cawellyn, noted for its Char. The mountains hereabouts approach near to each other. On the right, Mynydd Mawr forms a striking feature: its top is smooth, but its front is formed into a most immense precipice, retiring

inwards in a semicircular shape. Moel Eilio, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly rounded, and of a beautiful verdure. At Bettus Garmon, a village with a church dedicated to St. Germanus, the scene changes into a range of beautiful meadows, watered by a rapid stream.

I HERE turn my back on the humble flats, and resume my former road, till I had passed Cawellyn. Not far beyond that lake,* 2.317 I turned to the right, to visit Llyn y Dywarchen, or The Lake of the Sod, long since celebrated by the hyperbolical pen of Giraldus* 2.318, for its insula erratica, its wandering island, as he calls it. That little lake is seated in the middle of a turbery; and at this time actually exhibited the phaenomenon recorded by our romantic historian. It had on it a floating island, of an irregu∣lar shape, and about nine yards long. It appeared to be only a piece of the turbery, undermined by the water, torn off, and kept together by the close entangling of the roots, which form that species of ground. It frequently is set in motion by the wind; often joins its native banks; and, as Giraldus says, cattle are frequently surprized on it, and by another gale carried a short voyage from the shore.

CONTINUE our journey to Drws y Coed,* 2.319 or The Door of the Wood, a pass towards Clynnog. It is bounded by vast moun∣tains: on one side by Tal Mignedd; on the other, by a great clift of Mynydd Mawr. Some years ago, here were con∣siderable adventures for copper, of the yellow kind; and in the rocks were sometimes found some very thin laminae of the native

metal. I was tempted here to exceed a little the limits of my Alpine tour; for now the mountains descend fast from their ma∣jestic heights, growing less and less as they approach the Irish sea. My motive was to obtain a sight of two fine lakes, called Llynnieu Nanlle, which form two handsome expanses,* 2.320 with a very small distance between each. From hence is a noble view of the Wyddfa, which terminates the view through the visto of Drws y Coed. It is from this spot Mr. WILSON has favored us with a view, as magnificent as it is faithful. Few are sensible of this; for few visit the spot.

NEAR these lakes Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from hence issued out more than one of his edicts. I find some dated July the 17th and the 20th. Others are dated in the same year, from Bangor, Caernarvon, Mold, and Hope. One from Caernarvon* 2.321 is dated as late as the 22d of October; which shews what attention he paid to the establishment of government in his new dominions, by the long visit he deigned to honor them with. The place he resided at here, was called Bala Deu Llyn, or the place where a river discharges itself from two lakes: but at present all memory is lost of the situation of the town, whose traces might perhaps be still discovered, after proper search.

I RETURNED by the same road; and again reach Bedd Ke∣lert, where I made a coarse lodging. The evening was so fine, that we were irresistibly tempted not to defer till morning our visit to Pont Aberglas Llyn, a short walk from hence.* 2.322 The first part is along the narrow vale; but in a very little time

the mountains approach so close, as to leave only room for the furious river to roll over its stony bed; above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labor, impending over the water. The way seems to have been first cut out of the rock, and then covered with great stones, as usual in several of our narrow passes. The scenery is the most magnificent that can be ima∣gined. The mountains rise to very uncommon height, and op∣pose to us nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high as the eye can reach. Here is very little ap∣pearance of vegetation; yet in spots there is here and there enough to tempt the poor goat to its destruction; for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft of verdure, where, with∣out possiblity of return, it must remain to perish, after it has fi∣nished the dear-bought repast.

THE bridge terminates the pass; and consists of a single arch, flung over a deep chasm, from rock to rock. Above is a considerable cataract, where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surpass the heights. Near the place is a salmon fishery. Here had been a royal wear in the reign of Henry IV. which was then rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably be∣longed in old times to our natural princes; for it seems to have been a most valuable privelege. We have seen before, that young Elphin was endowed with one by his royal father; and the effect of his disappointment in missing his usual revenues, by finding (which, I dare say, was in those days a very rare in∣stance) an empty wear. Salmon was the most useful and esteemed fish among the Welsh: it was reckoned among the game; and, if I remember right, is the only species which was preserved by law.

ON my return to Bedd Kelert,* 2.323 a stone by the road side was pointed out to me, by the name of the chair of Rhys Goch O'ryri, the famous mountain bard, cotemporary with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod Garregog at the entrance into Traeth Mawr, from whence he used to walk, and sitting on this stone, compose his poems. Among others, is a satire on a fox, for killing his favorite peacock. He died about the year 1420, and was interred in the holy ground at Bedd Kelert, after escaping the vengeance of the English, for inspiring our countrymen with the love of liberty, and animating them, by his compositions, into a long and gallant resistance to the galling yoke.

[figure]

Notes

• * 1.1

  A PHAROS.
• * 1.2

  Plini•• Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvi. c. 12.
• * 1.3

  NEWMARKET.
• * 1.4

  Cor.
• * 1.5

  Tour in Wales, i. 413.
• † 1.6

  Antiq. Cornwall, 131.
• * 1.7

  GWAEN-YSKOR.
• * 1.8

  LLANASA.
• * 1.9

  Willi's St. Asaph, 56, App. No. xxi.
• * 1.10

  GRONANT.
• * 1.11

  Willis's St. Asaph, 65. App. No. xxxi. xxxii.
• * 1.12

  PRESTATYN-CASTLE.
• * 1.13

  Sebright's MSS.
• * 1.14

  DISERTH CHURCH.
• * 1.15

  Llwyd's Itin.
• * 1.16

  CASTLE.
• † 1.17

  Powel, 307.
• ‡ 1.18

  Same, 326.
• § 1.19

  Hengwrt, MS.
• ‖ 1.20

  Llwyd's Itin. MS.
• * 1.21

  SIR ROBERT POUNDERLING.
• * 1.22

  Leland's Itin. vi. 23.
• † 1.23

  Tour in Wales.
• * 1.24

  CWM CHURCH.
• ‡ 1.25

  Mr. W. Mytton's Coll. Pedigrees.
• § 1.26

  Salusbury Pedigree, p. 68. b.
• * 1.27

  Powel, 20.
• † 1.28

  Sax. ch. 65.
• * 1.29

  CASTLE.
• * 1.30

  Cambden, ii.
• † 1.31

  Powel, 100.
• ‡ 1.32

  Order. Vital. 670.
• § 1.33

  Life of Gr. ap Kynan. SEBRIGHT MSS.
• * 1.34

  Girald Cambr. Itin. 872.
• † 1.35

  Powel, 270.
• ‡ 1.36

  Leicester, 142. This Earl of Chester held his earldom from 1182 to 1232.
• * 1.37

  Ayl••ff's Rot. Wall••••••. 75.
• † 1.38

  Sebright MS.
• ‡ 1.39

  Ret. Walha. 98.
• § 1.40

  Carte, II. 264.
• ‖ 1.41

  Da••••ym••••••'s Anna's, II. 257.
• * 1.42

  TAKEN BY GEN. MYTTON.
• * 1.43

  Whitelock, 231.
• † 1.44

  Probably those which we have mentioned in the parish of Cwm, to which this maner might have extended; for Dissarch, or Diserth, adjoining to Cwm, is cited in Doomsday-Book as belonging to it.
• ‡ 1.45

  Doomsday-Book.
• * 1.46

  A BOROUGH.
• * 1.47

  JTS PARLEMENT.
• * 1.48

  See the Statuta Walliae passim.
• † 1.49

  Powel, 376.
• * 1.50

  BRIDGE.
• * 1.51

  GWINDY.
• * 1.52

  CHURCH.
• * 1.53

  Willis's St. Asaph, 159. Rot. Walliae, 92.
• † 1.54

  Rymer, ii. 292.
• * 1.55

  Rot. Walliae. 90.
• † 1.56

  Sebright MSS.
• ‡ 1.57

  Rymer, ii. 245, Willis's St. Asaph, 45.149.155.
• * 1.58

  ST. ASAPH.
• * 1.59

  SII.
• * 1.60

  Matthew Paris, 642.
• * 1.61

  CATHEDRAL.
• * 1.62

  Sebright MSS.
• * 1.63

  TOMBS.
• * 1.64

  An old drawing of this, and some other antient Welsh monuments, were most obligingly presented to me, by that excellent antiquary, the Rev. Mr. William C••le, of 〈◊〉〈◊〉, near Cambridge; a gentleman, to whom I have been frequently indebted for variety of useful information.
• * 1.65

  Viz. Holywell, Flintshire; Kevedoc, alias St. George, Denbighshire; Kin∣nersley, Oswestry, Knocking, Whittington, Selattin, Sal••p.
• * 1.66

  PENCRAIG.
• * 1.67

  DAFYDD DDU.
• * 1.68

  Puller's Br. Worthies. Flintshire, p. 40.
• † 1.69

  Salusbury Pe••••gree, 17
• * 1.70

  Willis's Not. Parliam. ii. part and. 25.
• † 1.71

  Hy••. Gwedir. 28.
• * 1.72

  SIR JOHN SALUSBURY.
• * 1.73

  I. SIR THOMAS.
• * 1.74

  SIR HENRY.
• * 1.75

  II. SIR THOMAS.
• * 1.76

  Athen, Oxon. ii. 25.
• * 1.77

  CATHERINE Y BERAIN.
• * 1.78

  Powel, 350.
• * 1.79

  Athen. Oxon. i. 284.
• † 1.80

  Sebright MSS.
• * 1.81

  Myddelton Pedigree, MS.
• * 1.82

  Fodina Regales. 32.
• † 1.83

  Myddelton Pedegree MS.
• * 1.84

  HUMPHREY LLWYD.
• * 1.85

  Grainger, i. 270. For the history of his works, see Athen. Oxon. i.
• † 1.86

  Prefixed to his Commentarioli Britannicae descriptionis fragmentum. 410 edit.
• * 1.87

  R••tu••ae Walliae. 66.
• * 1.88

  Sebright MSS.
• † 1.89

  The same.
• * 1.90

  Secret Memoirs of Robert earl of Leicester, 89.
• † 1.91

  Strife's Annals, ii. 498.
• ‡ 1.92

  Baron Price's Speech.
• * 1.93

  GATES.
• * 1.94

  Leland ITIN. v. 61.
• † 1.95

  Copied from Dr. Foulk's Papers, among Mr, Mytton's MSS.
• * 1.96

  CHURCH.
• ‡ 1.97

  Memoirs.
• * 1.98

  Dr. Foulk's Papers.
• * 1.99

  CASTLE.
• * 1.100

  Dugdale Baron, ii. 241
• † 1.101

  Carte. ii. 775.
• * 1.102

  BATTLE.
• ‡ 1.103

  Whitelock, 179.
• * 1.104

  SIEGE.
• * 1.105

  Whitelock, 216.
• † 1.106

  The same, 226. For the Articles of Capitulation, see Appendix.
• * 1.107

  PRIORY.
• ‡ 1.108

  Collin's Baronets, Edit. 1720, i. 82.
• * 1.109

  TRADE.
• * 1.110

  CHARTER.
• * 2.1

  Willis Notitiae Parliam. iii. 98.
• * 2.2

  Drake's Parliam. Hist. iv. 396.
• * 2.3

  ST. WINEFREDE.
• * 2.4

  HER REMAINS TRANSLATED.
• * 2.5

  This, and much more, may be seen in the Life of St. Winefrede, pp. 38, &c.
• † 2.6

  Antiquities of Shropshire, folio MS.
• * 2.7

  YR HEN LLYS.
• * 2.8

  Llwyd's Itin. i. 14. MS.
• * 2.9

  RUDE TIMES.
• * 2.10

  Llwyd's Itin. i. 16.
• † 2.11

  My Welsh Tour, i. 237.
• ‡ 2.12

  Llwyd's Itin. i. 15.
• * 2.13

  A common Welsh name.
• * 2.14

  FINE VIEW.
• * 2.15

  CHESNUT TREES.
• * 2.16

  Sardibus eae provenere primum. Ideo apud Graecos, Sardianos balanos ap∣pellant. Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xv. c. 23.
• * 2.17

  RUTHIN.
• * 2.18

  CASTLE.
• * 2.19

  Llwyd's Itin. MS. iii. 61.
• † 2.20

  Rotulae Walliae, 66.
• ‡ 2.21

  Rymer, iii. 157. iv. 137
• * 2.22

  BURNT BY GLENDWR.
• * 2.23

  CASTLE TAKEN BY MYTTON.
• † 2.24

  Drake's Parlement. Hist. xiv. 355.
• * 2.25

  CHURCH.
• * 2.26

  Cambden Middlesex, i, 385.
• * 2.27

  Leland Itin. iii, 135.
• † 2.28

  Dugdale's Monast. iii. pars ii. 57.
• † 2.29

  Dugdale's Monast. iii. pars ii. 57.
• ‡ 2.30

  The same.
• * 2.31

  Willis Abbies, ii. 311.
• † 2.32

  Tanner, 708.
• ‡ 2.33

  Itin, v. 45.
• * 2.34

  JAIL.
• § 2.35

  Several of their portraits are preserved at Bathavarn, the seat of the reverend Mr. Carter.
• * 2.36

  BRITISH POST.
• * 2.37

  Mr. Thomas's MSS.
• * 2.38

  Tour in Wales, i. 414.
• † 2.39

  Powel, 320.
• * 2.40

  Life of Gr. ap Conan. Sebright MSS.
• † 2.41

  Salusbury Pedegree, 14.
• ‡ 2.42

  Powel, 214.
• * 2.43

  Lord LITTLETON, iv. 99.
• † 2.44

  He died in 1089.
• * 2.45

  FFORD HELEN.
• * 2.46

  CLOUD BERRIES.
• * 2.47

  In Camden's Br. ii, 835.
• * 2.48

  Flora Scotica, i. 267. tab. xiii.
• * 2.49

  WATTER-FALL.
• * 2.50

  CAER BONT.
• * 2.51

  ST. DERFEL.
• * 2.52

  Halle's Chr. ccxxxiii.
• † 2.53

  Stow's Annals, 573.
• * 2.54

  J. D. Rhys's Grammar, 103.
• † 2.55

  Mr. Evan Evans's Notes.
• * 2.56

  RHIWDAS.
• * 2.57

  KNITTING.
• * 2.58

  TOMMEN Y BALA.
• * 2.59

  Sebright MSS.
• † 2.60

  Dugdale Baron ii 149.
• ‡ 2.61

  Rotulae Walliae, 98, In P 97 is an order for him to have six stags out of the forest of Meirionith.
• * 2.62

  LAKS.
• * 2.63

  FISH.
• * 2.64

  Sebright MSS.
• * 2.65

  Powel, 258.
• * 2.66

  THR DLF, SACRED
• † 2.67

  Cluverius Germ. Antiq. lib. i. 185.
• ‡ 2.68

  Girald. Camb, Itin. c. xi.
• * 2.69

  Ausonius Clarae Urbes, lin. 29.
• † 2.70

  Stanza 39, cant. xi, lib. iv.
• ‡ 2.71

  Song x.
• * 2.72

  Lycidas.
• † 2.73

  Edgar and Canute.
• * 2.74

  KERRIG Y DRU∣IDION
• ‡ 2.75

  II. 813.
• * 2.76

  BARON PRICE.
• * 2.77

  GLAN Y LLYN.
• * 2.78

  CASTELL CORN∣DOCHON.
• * 2.79

  LLAN∣UWCHLLYN.
• * 2.80

  ARAN HI••••
• * 2.81

  Fairy Queen, book I. canto ix.
• * 2.82

  VALE OF MOWDDWY.
• * 2.83

  TURF SLEDGES
• * 2.84

  At this time the turberies lie at a great distance from the brow of the hill; the natives are therefore obliged to bring a horse by a round-about way to them, which assists in dragging the turf to the brink of the slope, where men supply its place.
• * 2.85

  ST. TYDECHO.
• † 2.86

  Gywydd y DYDDECHO SANT yn amser MEALGWIN GWYNEDD; i. •••• the poem of St. Tydecho, who lived in the time of Malgwyn Gwynedd.
• * 2.87

  DINAS MOWD∣DWY.
• * 2.88

  OWNERS.
• * 2.89

  PRIVILEGES.
• * 2.90

  MALLWYD.
• * 2.91

  CRUEL MURDER.
• * 2.92

  OCHRE.
• * 2.93

  Detested people, blue-marking earth, and rain.
• * 2.94

  BWLCH OER-DDRWS.
• * 2.95

  CONVENTION THERE.
• * 2.96

  DOLGELLEU.
• * 2.97

  CADER IDRIS.
• * 2.98

  COLUMNS.
• * 2.99

  HEIGHT.
• * 2.100

  LLYS BRADWEN.
• * 2.101

  Girald. Cambr. Dejer. Walliae, 888.
• † 2.102

  Anderson's Dict. Com, ii. 112.
• * 2.103

  ANTIENT HOSPI∣TALITY.
• * 2.104

  Giraldus, 888.
• * 2.105

  ANTIENT MIN∣STRELSIE.
• * 2.106

  TOWYN.
• * 2.107

  Sebright MSS.
• * 2.108

  CRAIG Y DERYN.
• * 2.109

  TEBERRI CASTLE.
• * 2.110

  Leland's Collect. i. 178.
• † 2.111

  Rotulae Walliae, 99.
• * 2.112

  TAL Y LLYN.
• ‡ 2.113

  Ecton, 499.
• * 2.114

  SINGULAR COFFIN.
• † 2.115

  Llwyd's Itin. MS. Another instance is related in Cambden, ii. 793.
• * 2.116

  LLAM Y LLA∣DRON.
• * 2.117

  Leges Walliae, 221.
• * 2.118

  LLYN Y TRI GRAIENYN.
• * 2.119

  NANNEY.
• * 2.120

  Tour in Wales, i. 324.
• † 2.121

  A Gentleman's Tour through Monmouthshire and Wales, in 1774, printed for T. Evans, 1775.
• * 2.122

  CYMMER ABBEY.
• * 2.123

  Sebright MSS.
• † 2.124

  Dugdale Monast. i. 826; who, as well as Tanner, confounds this with Cwmbir abbey, in South Wales.
• ‡ 2.125

  Willis, ii. 313.
• * 2.126

  CASTLE.
• § 2.127

  Powel, 183.
• * 2.128

  RHAIADER DDU
• * 2.129

  PISTILL Y MAW.
• * 2.130

  BEDH PORUS.
• * 2.131

  II. 791.
• * 2.132

  SARN HELEN.
• † 2.133

  Rowland, 165.
• * 2.134

  CASTELL PRYSOR.
• * 2.135

  CROOKED PERCH.
• * 2.136

  Br. Zool, iii. tab. xlviii.
• * 2.137

  ROMAN CAMP.
• * 2.138

  Cambden, ii, 790.
• * 2.139

  OVAL INCLOSURE.
• * 2.140

  BARMOUTH
• * 2.141

  July 18th, 1770.
• * 2.142

  FASTING WOMAN.
• * 2.143

  She was living in 1780, and in the same state.
• † 2.144

  Harleian Miscel. iv. 41. 55. See London Magazine, 1762, p. 340, in which is another instance of long abstinence.
• * 2.145

  EVANS THE CONJURER.
• * 2.146

  In the life of Benevuto Cellini, is a most ridiculous tale of this nature.
• † 2.147

  J. D. Rhys Cambr. Brit. Ling. Institut. p. 60.
• ‡ 2.148

  See Lilly's Life passim.
• * 2.149

  CORS-Y-GEDOL.
• * 2.150

  CRAIG Y DINAS.
• * 2.151

  LLYN BODLYN.
• * 2.152

  CIRCLES OF STONES.
• * 2.153

  CARNEDDEU HENGWM.
• * 2.154

  CASTELL DINAS CORTIN.
• * 2.155

  CERNUNNOS.
• † 2.156

  Religion de Gaulois, ii. •• 85.
• * 2.157

  CROMLECHS.
• * 2.158

  DEWS ARDUDWY.
• * 2.159

  SARN BADRIG.
• * 2.160

  CWM BYCHAN.
• * 2.161

  Numbers of respectable families in this country, are of the same descent.
• * 2.162

  Da Costa's Fossils, i. 83.
• * 2.163

  ANTIENT HUNTING.
• † 2.164

  Lewis's Hist, Wales, Introd. 56.
• * 2.165

  Record of Caernarvon, Harl. MSS.
• * 2.166

  See Leges Wallicae, xxxix. 256 to 260.
• * 2.167

  HARLECH.
• * 2.168

  Ayloff's Welsh Calendar, 92.
• † 2.169

  Dodderidge, 58.
• * 2.170

  BESIEGED IN 1468
• ‡ 2.171

  Gwedir Family, 77.
• § 2.172

  Cambden, ii, The road is to this day called Lle Herbert.
• * 2.173

  Life of lord Herbert. 7, 8.
• † 2.174

  Carte, ii. 757.
• * 2.175

  AND IN 1647.
• ‡ 2.176

  Whitelock, 24••.
• * 2.177

  In possession of Sir Roger Mostyn.
• * 2.178

  TORQUES.
• † 2.179

  A little altered from the translation in Cambden, ii. 788.
• * 2.180

  Propertius, lib. iv. eleg.
• † 2.181

  Livij, lib. xxxvi. c. 40.
• ‡ 2.182

  Plin, lib. xxxiii. c. 2.
• * 2.183

  CYTTI'ER GWYD∣DELOD.
• * 2.184

  Mona Antiqua.
• † 2.185

  Antiq. Cornwal, 188. tab. xiv.
• ‡ 2.186

  Suecia Antiqua, &c. tab. 322.
• * 2.187

  Wormii Mon. Dan. 4.
• * 2.188

  GLYN.
• * 2.189

  LLAN-TEGWIN.
• * 2.190

  VELYN RHYD.
• * 2.191

  TAN Y BWLCH.
• * 2.192

  The present earl of Radnor.
• * 2.193

  FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL.
• * 2.194

  CWM̄ORTHIN.
• * 2.195

  BEDDAU GWYR ARDUDWY.
• * 2.196

  LLYN CONWY.
• * 2.197

  YSPYTTY.
• * 2.198

  TOMBS.
• * 2.199

  VOELAS.
• * 2.200

  See the Poem addressed to him by Llywarch Brydydd y Moch, in Evans's Coll. Awdl. vii.
• * 2.201

  Cambden, ii. 816.
• * 2.202

  RHAIADER Y GRAIG LLWYD.
• * 2.203

  BEAVERS.
• * 2.204

  Leges Wallicae, 260. 261.
• * 2.205

  BETTWS WYRION.
• * 2.206

  PONT Y PAIR.
• * 2.207

  Llwyd's Itin. MS. i. The same authority says, that near this place is a great Cromleh, called Cromleh Hwva, so named from one Hwva ap Kyfnerth, at Rhyddon, who concealed himself under it, when the earl of Pembroke deso∣lated these parts.
• * 2.208

  DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE,
• * 2.209

  Tertiam est, jus leges condendi, et MONETAM PERCUTIENDI. Wottou's Leges Wallicae, 71.
• † 2.210

  Leges Wallicae, 165.
• ‡ 2.211

  Gweair Fam. 7.
• * 2.212

  Rotulae Walliae, 97.
• † 2.213

  Gwedir Family, 137; a publication we are indebted for, to my respected friend, the honorable DAINES BARRINGTON.
• ‡ 2.214

  The same.
• * 2.215

  PENAMNAEN.
• * 2.216

  〈…〉〈…〉 pedegree of the Wynnes, See Appendix.
• * 2.217

  CARREG Y GWALCH.
• * 2.218

  GWEDIR.
• * 2.219

  See his Works.
• † 2.220

  Powel, 60.
• ‡ 2.221

  Vide his Life.
• * 2.222

  See the poems of Cynddelw Brydydd Mawr, who flourished about the year 1250.
• † 2.223

  Hist. Gwedir Fam. xii.
• * 2.224

  Appendix.
• † 2.225

  The same.
• * 2.226

  LLANRWST BRIDGE.
• * 2.227

  INIGO JONES.
• * 2.228

  Mr. WALPOLE'S Anecd. Painting, ii. 142.
• † 2.229

  His print, tab. at p. 142. Anecd. and his Life passim.
• ‡ 2.230

  Hawkins's Hist. Music, iv. 55.
• sec; 2.231

  Among all the family papers, there is not the lest mention of Inigo, which must, have been the case, had he been an Eleve of the Wynnes, as has been po∣pularly asserted.
• * 2.232

  Ben. Jonson's Works, vi. 294.
• * 2.233

  TOWN OF LLAN∣RWST, AND CHURCH.
• † 2.234

  XV. Tribes, of which Nefydd was one.
• * 2.235

  BRASSES AND TOMBS.
• * 2.236

  Died in 1639.
• † 2.237

  Died in 1671.
• * 2.238

  MAYNAN ABBY.
• * 2.239

  Rymer, ii. 427.
• † 2.240

  Dugdale Mon. i. 921. Steven's Transt. 106.
• ‡ 2.241

  Rotulae Walliae, 90.
• * 2.242

  Willis calls him Richard ap Rhys.
• * 2.243

  TREFRIW.
• † 2.244

  Sebright MS.
• * 2.245

  GALE, OR BOG MYRTLE.
• * 2.246

  TALIESIN.
• * 2.247

  Printed in M.DCC.LXXX. 410. and sold by Dodsley and Elmsley.
• † 2.248

  See Mr. Evan Evans's Collection, 150.
• * 2.249

  In the original, SALMONS.
• * 2.250

  GLYN LLUGWY.
• * 2.251

  Litin v. 45
• * 2.252

  CAPEL KERIG.
• * 2.253

  GLYDER BACH.
• * 2.254

  TREVAEN.
• * 2.255

  BEN-GLOG.
• * 2.256

  CWM IDWAL.
• * 2.257

  TWLL DU.
• * 2.258

  KLOGWYN DU.
• * 2.259

  Lightfoot's Fl. Sectica, ii. 83.
• * 2.260

  GLYDER VAWR.
• * 2.261

  LLYN Y CWN.
• * 2.262

  NANT-BERIS.
• * 2.263

  CASTELL DOLBA∣DERN.
• * 2.264

  MARGARET UCH EVAN.
• * 2.265

  BRITISH POSTS.
• * 2.266

  In the church-yard is an yew tree, twenty-seven feet in girth.
• * 2.267

  CAUNANT MAWR.
• * 2.268

  GRASSES.
• * 2.269

  SUMMER DWELLINGS.
• * 2.270

  THE HIGH LAKES.
• * 2.271

  TOP OF SNOWDON.
• * 2.272

  FYNNON LAS.
• * 2.273

  August 25th Old Stile.
• * 2.274

  August 15th, New Stile.
• * 2.275

  ATTRACTION OF CLOUDS.
• * 2.276

  RIVERS.
• * 2.277

  HEIGHT.
• * 2.278

  Wren's Parentalia, i. 253. I suppose; Caswell was employed by Mr. Adams, author of the Index Villeris.
• * 2.279

  STRATA.
• * 2.280

  BOTANY.
• * 2.281

  Gwedir MSS.
• * 2.282

  A ROYAl FOREST.
• * 2.283

  Itin V. 43.
• * 2.284

  From the communication of Paul Panton, esq
• * 2.285

  SACRED.
• * 2.286

  Gildas.
• † 2.287

  Rowlands, 253.
• ‡ 2.288

  Mr. Rhys Jones's Coll. of Welsh Poems, p. 13.
• § 2.289

  Powel, 369.
• * 2.290

  FAIR HELD THERE.
• * 2.291

  NAME.
• * 2.292

  By the Saxons first into SNAWDUNE. Sax. Chr. 203.
• * 2.293

  WEATHER.
• * 2.294

  GORPHWYSFA.
• * 2.295

  CWM DYLI.
• * 2.296

  CWM DYLI UCHA.
• * 2.297

  LLYN LLYDAW.
• * 2.298

  FFYNNON LAS.
• * 2.299

  WHEAT-EAR
• * 2.300

  CRIB COCH.
• * 2.301

  NANT GWYNAR
• * 2.302

  DINAS EMRIS.
• * 2.303

  ITS LEGEND.
• * 2.304

  Nennius, c. xl. xlii. xliii.
• † 2.305

  Draiton's Pel••••lb. SONG X.
• * 2.306

  MERLIN.
• * 2.307

  Powel's Notes on Giraldus Itin. Cambriae, lib. I. c. x.
• * 2.308

  BEED KELERT.
• * 2.309

  PRIORY.
• * 2.310

  Rymer, ii. 316.
• † 2.311

  Sebright MS.
• ‡ 2.312

  Leges Walliae, 254.
• * 2.313

  Rymer, ii, 317.
• † 2.314

  Dugdale Monast. iii. 21.
• ‡ 2.315

  Rowland's MSS.
• * 2.316

  LLYN CADER.
• * 2.317

  LLYN Y DYWARCHEN.
• * 2.318

  Itin. Cambr. lib. ii. c. ix. p. 871.
• * 2.319

  DRWS Y COED.
• * 2.320

  LLYNIEU NANLLE.
• * 2.321

  Sebright MSS. Rymer, ii. 276 to 289.
• * 2.322

  PONT ABERGLAS LLYN.
• * 2.323

  RHYS GOCH.